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I don't know if anyone else noticed this, but the DS ear at the CV should be in alignment with the u-joint ear on the other end of the shaft, not the flange.
I would get a quote from Jesse at High Angle and see how they compare. I don't remember how much mine cost but $500 doesn't sound too horrible if memory serves.
You could also contact www.yotayard.com.
The 30/60 alignment may have caused the wear/damage. You're welcome for the help. I am not much of a mechanic but can sometimes ask good questions to narrow the possible issues.
I don't think the bolt patterns is the same. I've got a l50 or l52 trannny w/ top shift case. I think you've got a w-series in there and the pattern is different.Can someone confirm this?
Was actually an R series (R151F) I pulled out of there, but your prob right about the flanges not matching up You are welcome to the flanges off the t-case too if that helps. I have no need for these parts and am only a couple weeks from scrapping what's left of this truck...
Is flange on the differential still there too?Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
having to remove both pinion nuts and drilling out the old flangesYou should be able to drill without removing the flange.
Whose actually done this? I saw a post on pirate that said you can use the old flanges....just need to rotate and redrill....is this true?
Complete rear axle is spoken for, but the front flange is still there. yours too if you want it... Can send pics tonight or tomorrow when I get back to the shop...
Alright folks here we go with all the feedback....$500 - shop in San Leandro, convert the whole thing over to Spicer$400 - High Angle shop, stay Toyota but switch to 2nd gen flange pattern on x-case output and diff input (Jesse did not seem confident in 1st gen DS design and recommended using 2nd gen style. He also recommended against Spicer set-up saying he's had bad luck with that approach)$150 - yotayard.com, used, bolt up and ready to go$20 in gas to drive 45 min to South Bay and visit OCD - used and potential flange bolt hole pattern issue What's everybody's vote? I'm leaning towards OCD if he's got both flanges , else I'm torn between High Angle and yotayard. Bolt up and ready to go is attractive compared to having to remove both pinion nuts and drilling out the old flanges, but nice and new sounds good too.....hmmm?
If you ever have a need to go to a long travel from driveshaft (cross over steering, etc.)
Blackdiamond, please learn me a thing or two.....why would cross over steering require longer shaft? I already have 3" lift....wouldn't that be enough?Yotayard also corrected themselves and aren't sure if they have the old school shaft with 8mm rectangular pattern, so the cheap/bolt-up and go option may not even be there. They have to dig through their stuff and see if they can come up with one.
Awesome man! Would Sunday work for me coming down? I could also do any weekday, but it would be late after work cause you know how 880 is between me and you in the afternoon.
Yep, Sunday works. Just sent you a pm with my cell#...
Finally going to mess with this think some tonight when I get home. I got side tracked last week with an impromptu brake issue....which I only got half fixed, but that's a different story. Also, I ordered new driveshaft bolts from the stealer and when I went to pick them up yesterday and guy had gone back and changed the order to match the 8mm old style for some reason. The paperwork looked like he forgot to order the lock washers and then looked back at my account realized past records show I have an 80 and then changed my request from the later 10mm to the older the 8mm style....needless to say I'm still waiting, but in the meantime I can change t-case grease, swap t-case flange and drill out diff flange..........I'll post some pics tomorrow of the drilling and comment on how it went for a weekend warrior tech......wish i had those damn bolts to put the holes as I drilled them. Drilling holes at size X....10.08mm (shaft side is about 10.3-10.5 based on noname brand caliper)can anyone confirm that 90ft-lb on the t-case flange stake nut for me?.....the dealer did at least get me the right stake nut
Those will be fine. Run it!
I'm surprised no one has mentioned building a square tube front shaft...
I have an IFS one, but I also have an HP front. There's a thread either here or on Pirate about grinding the CV to achieve more angle.
i built my low budget square driveshaft, and clearance my cv joint, I followed this writeup http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/
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