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Best approach
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franky112665
Rock Crawl'n
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Posts: 64
Member since Jul '10
Best approach
«
on:
Jan 12, 2014, 11:15:48 AM »
Hey guys. Has been awhile since I've posted any thing. Lol like a year or two. I need some advice on my yota.
History of truck- 1994 toyata 4x4 extended cab. 22re. Used to be a daily driver. Now used as a farm vehicle and extra if one of the others breaks down. When I got the truck the motor was shot. So I bought a 89 used 22re. That motor overheated and now have a 94 22re in.
Now for the advice part. I'm leaking oil out between my head gasket and block, front passenger side, at the corner above water pump. No water in oil but I'm losing water somewhere. No visible water leaks any I can find. I'm going to pull the head and replace the gasket. What else would you check or include while doing this?
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Cheesemaker
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Dean Tyler, you were an inspiration to all!!
Re: Best approach
«
Reply #1
on:
Jan 12, 2014, 03:14:18 PM »
Water could be leaking into cylinder. Is it hard starting? I had a old Nissan that had kept blowing HG's, but it would be hard to start most the time. Sometimes it needed a push start. What I didn't know was when the motor would cool down, it would pull coolant into a cylinder from a water jacket at the HG. It would never overheat, just lose coolant. And after a while it would finally go, producing the choco milkshake.
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Jr0mer0
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Miss ya Dean (4THEWKN) & Kyle (KYOTA)!!
4THEWKN~9/17/2006 If it wasn't for you, I'd be driving something other than a Toyota!
My build up ~ project Kilchis!
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32961.0
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http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=64319.0;topicseen
franky112665
[OP]
Rock Crawl'n
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Re: Best approach
«
Reply #2
on:
Jan 12, 2014, 03:21:35 PM »
No it's not hard to start. Runs fine. Just noticed the gasket hanging out and saw that's where my oil leak was at. I have lost gas milage. Went from 300 miles a tank to about 250. Gonna do a full tune up after the head gasket.i also found some vac lines with cracks in them. What about the egr system. No smog test in texas.
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toyodaaddict
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Re: Best approach
«
Reply #3
on:
Jan 12, 2014, 03:54:05 PM »
when changing the HG id suggest using a factory toyota gasket and replacing or at the very least checking the oil pump and timing chain. my
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80 shortbed-22re,w56,Marlin 23 spline dual cases,HighAngle drivelines,RUF/63"chevy's,35''mtr's,30 spline Longfields, Allpro highsteer.87 rear axle,5.29 gears,rear spool,BudBuilt cm, marlin HD clutch,ramsey 8000 winch.
https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=101882.0
BadnewsBob
Rock Master
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Re: Best approach
«
Reply #4
on:
Jan 12, 2014, 03:59:27 PM »
I had a crack in my head in that spot where a former owner of my truck put the wrong 10mm bolt in, down in front of the timing chain. Made it leak oil like crazily. Not sure about your water problem.
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AE2 USN ret
No matter where ya go..... there ya are.
Hillbilly Offroad
84 xtra cab on 63" chevies and RUF 35" KM2s 22R 5 speed DTC 5.29s Locked front and rear.
Snowtoy
The 2.5K Group
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Re: Best approach
«
Reply #5
on:
Jan 12, 2014, 06:17:35 PM »
Have the head checked out by a machine shop, new timing chain(if unknown mileage on the old one), possibly replace the water and oil pumps depending on their condition once you have the engine apart, and have the radiator rebuilt if it is on the old side. Given the PITA the fuel filter is to replace with the intake manifold in place, I would replace it as well while you have the head off. I would also have the injectors cleaned/rebuilt, or clean them at home(google DIY injector cleaning). Along with the vaccum lines, now may be a good time to replace the upper and lower rad hoses.
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'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit
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franky112665
[OP]
Rock Crawl'n
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Posts: 64
Member since Jul '10
Re: Best approach
«
Reply #6
on:
Jan 12, 2014, 06:59:50 PM »
Would you drop the oil pan and check to be 100% sure about water in the oil? Or can I tell when I lift the cover or head
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Snowtoy
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Re: Best approach
«
Reply #7
on:
Jan 12, 2014, 08:59:01 PM »
When you drain the oil you will know for sure if you have coolant in the oil, it is hard to mistake the grayish color of the oil for being normal. Have you checked the oil cap yet?, you will usually get the gray sludge in the cap as well when the HG goes where the oil and coolant can mix.
If you don't have to drive it, it would be best to not to and save yourself the headache of having to clean the sludge from everything if/when the oil does mix with the water.
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'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit
'87 Supra resto/mod
franky112665
[OP]
Rock Crawl'n
Turtle Points: 0
Posts: 64
Member since Jul '10
Re: Best approach
«
Reply #8
on:
Jan 14, 2014, 04:57:05 PM »
Gonna look into a rebuild. The more I tear it down the more I find wrong. Long story short all I will have is a block under my hood.
So now what up grades should I get if I go this direction? Still will be a possible daily driver. So I don't won't a gas guzzler.
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Wainiha
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Re: Best approach
«
Reply #9
on:
Jan 16, 2014, 12:51:47 PM »
sub'd
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2000 3.4L xtra-cab Tacoma.
Icon C/Os
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Automatic...Don't shoot...
King resi C/O
and Total Chaos UCAs
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- Big Mike
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Best approach
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