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Step 1: Remove driveshaftStep 2: Take a tape measure and measure from the output flange to the differential flange. Write this measurement down.Step 3: Start calling local driveshaft companies and find out who will make you a long slip CV driveshaft (you want it to be at least 12 inces of long slip) to the measurement you took in step 2. You may need to find a CV core to give them to use.Step 4:
You might be able to get away with just having the tube replaced with a longer one and staying with your stock non-CV style driveshaft. I had 3-4 inches of lift with my 85, used the stock steering setup, and never touched the front driveshaft. CV is certainly better but for light wheeling I think you'll be ok. This would be a much more cost effective fix in the short term.
I'm getting confused now.....isn't my front shaft already a CV shaft? It's the Double Cardan set up w/ 2 u-joints by the x-case and 1 by at the differential. It does have an L52 5-speed tranny that I believe someone put in, replacing the l42 4-speed tranny. Would they have brought the CV joint from a later model over to my 80; I assumed all 1st gens had CV shafts like 2nd and 3rd gens, am I wrong? I had an 81 a couple of years back, but I immediately put a w56 tranny in w/ the later model x-case and used the late model tubes and early model spline shafts. I remember doing this to avoid having to swap around flanges and/or yokes, but I don't remember what the front DS looked like on 4-speed.....now I'm just thinking out loud....I'll shut up now.
I think I now realize you are talking about a pickup so from what I heard Toyota uses metric splines and the raw material is not available to shaft shops in the US so they can't modify them to long travel just retube making it longer with the same travel. you would have to buy a $300 kit like this for metric long travel and use all or just part of it https://www.allprooffroad.com/84894runnerdrivetrain/31 or have a new long travel shaft built using more common spline material or use the spacers in my post above as long as your front shaft is from an 84 or newer(spacers don't fit the 79-83)
All '85 front driveshafts have the double cardan at the T-case and a single u-joint at the diff. A d-shaft spacer mentioned above might work as a temp at the t-case until you get a long slip conversion like the all-pro one. The d-shaft wall is only .65", I'd have it re-tubed to at least .95" or better, but that's just me.
You likely don't need a long travel front driveshaft in your current configuration, but if you plan to go further with your build you might be better off going that direction now but you may still end up having to adjust the length again.
I would take that to a driveshaft shop as a core. They will cut the tube out and replace just t he tube. So both issues that that Shaft has would be corrected at one time. You could also have them install pto splines for a long spline of you need it. Most shops will even cut down the 12" pto if you don't want it that long.
Just got off the phone with a guy at the shop. Going by tomorrow after work to discuss the shaft and my clicking/popping noise.....hopefully it's one and the same...if not the only things left that it could be is the rearend or the x-case. Will report back.
Pull the front driveshaft and the go for a ride with hubs out and then hubs in. If the noise is gone then it's likely the driveshaft. If it's only there with hubs in you can isolate the front end minus the driveshaft.
D-shaft is out.....lying the bed waiting to go to the shop.It will only make the noise with hubs locked and in 4WD. I've tried every combination w/ x-case engaged, hubs locked, and driveshaft in/out. The noise is just like a CV joint. First it was sporadic, with turning making it start the clicking/popping. Then would come and go while driving straight (in 4WD). Now it does it constantly w/ 4WD engaged and hubs locked.Any other thoughts....I'm at a loss
I made the suggestion based on your comment about it possibly being the rear end. Just to confirm have you tried all of the following combinations with the front driveshaft out:(1) 2wd Hi with hubs unlocked(2) 2wd Hi with hubs locked(3) 4wd Hi with hubs unlocked(4) 4wd Hi with hubs locked(5) 4wd Lo with hubs unlocked(6) 4wd Lo with hubs locked
Hey bud- you got me second guessing myself so I just reconfirmed. I am unable to recreate the noise with D-shaft out......I even checked forward and reverse. If it were the T-case I would think it would do it all the time, which leads me to the rear end.....or differential whatever you want to call it.....bad habit I picked up from my pops.I'll see what the drive shaft shop says and go from there....Probably say, yeah give us your money.I wish I new someone with a lift....I would run it on the lift and listen. I would lay on the ground and listen but I don't trust the wife or any of the few Bay Area buddies of mine not to run over my butt! Just moved here about a year ago and none of my friends are very....let's say mechanically inclined.Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
If you can't recreate the noise without the driveshaft out even with the hubs turned in (differential will stiff be turning) and it is consistent with it installed, your driveshaft become a prime suspect in my mind.
Yeah but doesn't sound like a drive shaft and would making turns make it start and stop....as it did in the beginning. That said I've only had u joints fail and am not familiar with getting "bending" slack in them.Also, wouldn't the gears in the diff be running against opposite surfaces without the input driving it....do you follow me.....I'm saying wouldnt the backlash would move to the front of teeth. maybe it won't pop when turning under this condition.Another point for you, the truck doesn't seen to have seen much 4WD so this would go against diff or x-case.Pardon the grammar I have using this stupid phone to type.Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
I had considered the differential being on the opposite side of the gears, but when backing up you would be using the same side. It is possible that it doesn't create the issue when not being driven.
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