Author Topic: 22-RE lean condition 3 cracked pistons (Read 5144 times)

dirtybird · « **on:** Dec 21, 2014, 10:49:28 AM »

Title says it all. Long story as short as I can make it and trying to be careful not to bash those businesses involved. I have a new engine that has seemed to run fine for the 18,000 miles that I've had it. On my way home i suddenly lost power so I pulled over and there was oil everywhere!!! towed it home pulled it apart and found 2 with a whole and ,3,4 cracked pistons? anyone have this problem and what did they find to be the issue? I don't want to put it together again and have it do the same thing. Any help would be appreciated. I spent a lot of time and money to try and do it right I thought but it didn't turn out that way. Just about all parts are new dealer parts as much as possible. intake system has stock air box, LC throttle body, RC engineering injectors,LC header all the way to exhaust tip is new including new dealer o2 sensor. intake was completely disassemble and hot tanked to get all the years of build up out of it. Vaive cover disassembled and cleaned and clear coated and baffles re-installed. list goes on and on. I can't figure out what was the cause of the lean failure.

OVRAROK · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 21, 2014, 01:33:38 PM »

Maybe bad afm, I believe that tell computer how much fuel

dirtybird · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 21, 2014, 03:16:55 PM »

do you know how i would be able to tell?

OVRAROK · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 21, 2014, 06:31:28 PM »

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml#AFMtesting

dirtybird · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 22, 2014, 07:41:32 AM »

Wow !! Thanks I will do this ASAP and report what I find

dcg9381 · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 06, 2015, 03:35:26 PM »

What'd you find here? I suspect something else was up - generally the 22RE doesn't like to run any leaner than 14.7:1 at cruise and it actually idles fairly pig rich.... If you were running lean enough to kill it, I'd expect it to run like crap.

A hole in a piston - like a melting deal? And cracking the others - maybe long term detonation?

95xtracab · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 10, 2015, 10:04:14 PM »

dude i had the same issue. my efi fuse was corroded. you could barely tell it was running a hair off. i tried ALL KINDSA

.
adjust afm
plugs wires rotor cap set timing
reset timing
header
exhaust new cat no cat
check grounds clean grounds
asjust tps
new tps adjust fps
new fuel pump filter
other

new afm

was racking my brain
finally
i checked the efi fuse i was pulling the battery ground to reset the ecu
it had a little bit of corrosion looked like the prior owner didn't know you have to unbolt the fuse box and remove it from the bottom so id di and installed a new one and fingers crossed 150 miles so far hasn't done it it had a little flat spot around 1200-1800 rpms and used fuel sorry punctuation

dirtybird · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 12, 2015, 07:39:57 PM »

EFI fuse corroded? that sounds crazy!!But I won't count it out. I haven't found anything yet. Just received parts from 22reperformance.com and thursday headed to the machine shop to drop off my block and pistons. Yeah #2 cracked in a T shape and about a nickel size thickness hole. cracked all the way through and down the side to the piston pin!!! then #3 and #4 just a faint T shape crack on the top. I got my 4runner not running from a family friend with a blown head gasket for the second time so they called it quits time for a new vehicle 350k miles original owners. since i got it running, I have not known any other noise than what I thought was an old rocker arm motor clanking. This is my first toyota. Sucks that I have to spend money to put it back together to get it running to see what is causing the lean or whacky timing maybe. I will post when I find something. 22reperformance.com has been very helpful and taking time with my retarded questions considering they are so backed up and my engine had nothing to do with them and they are still willing to help. They just gained a customer.

dirtybird · « **Reply #8 on:** Jan 12, 2015, 07:46:17 PM »

yeah i suspect long term over the 18000 miles of cruising. i know that between 1600-1800rpm the check engine light would come on if you kept the rpm steady, but as soon as you let off or give it a little gas the light would go off. I didn't think nothing of it at the time but the code had something to do with lean condition. But it rarely came on as i was always fluctuating the pedal and cruise speed was 3000 rpm. I guess see what happens. I figured the check engine light coming on was just a hiccup... guess not

emsvitil · « **Reply #9 on:** Jan 12, 2015, 08:38:39 PM »

Was #1 ok?

Here's a thought........

#1 was running rich (leaking injector) and on avg you were running 14.7:1 (thus the others were lean)

1985CRAWLER · « **Reply #10 on:** Jan 12, 2015, 08:56:56 PM »

22reperformance, they are badass, glad they are local to me, my #1 go to guys for parts and they did some great work on my 22re.

also about the intermediate check engine light. did u replace the O2 sensor? my 87 runner did that while steady on the throttle for a few seconds it would come on, let off for a second and it would go off, replaced the O2 and it went away.

did u have a pinging around 2500 to 3000 rpm?

dirtybird · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 13, 2015, 07:05:40 PM »

Quote from: emsvitil on Jan 12, 2015, 08:38:39 PM

Was #1 ok?

Here's a thought........

#1 was running rich (leaking injector) and on avg you were running 14.7:1 (thus the others were lean)

#1 appears fine if it is cracked ,I don't see it. My 4runner has 18,000 miles since new and I mean just about everything is new. Injectors brand new from LC engineering. LC header to tail pipe including cat, muffler , and piping new. Brand new o2 sensor from the toyota dealer not autozone. new TPS from the dealer. toyota cap and rotor, plugs and wires all from the dealer new. radiator, hoses,even the pre bent pipe for the lower radiator hose new from the dealer. Heck I even bought a new oil pick up tube and dip stick from the dealer because I didn't think I could get the original clean enough to my liking. sorry I'm kinda anal. Thats why it is killing me on why this happened. Throttle body new from LC or reman however which way you look at it. New starter, oil pressure sending unit etc etc. Now I'm not sure about the EGR or some of the vacuum solenoids and sensors in the coolant side of the intake manifold. Thats where I am going to start when I get it up and running

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 13, 2015, 07:31:13 PM »

Did you have any knock codes? Might look into the knock sensor, if you were running an NA engine that lean and it wasnt pulling timing then you have an issue with the knock sensor and/or electronic distributor timing advance... Even if #1 was rich and the other 3 cylinders lean (injectors) they would knock enough to pull timing! Do you know what your ignition timing was set at?

emsvitil · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 13, 2015, 09:03:35 PM »

Ok, same line of reasoning.........

Leaking cold start injector........

dirtybird · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 16, 2015, 05:23:21 AM »

Dropped my engine and parts off at my machinist and he is scratching his head too. He says not lean because pistons wouldn't or shouldn't have any build up they would be white in color and if heated should have scoring. There is no scoring and cylinders look new with cross hatch pattern. The spark plugs should be white in color too and they aren't they have like crud build up like burnt oil. Not sure if all that happened after the hole on the piston or not. The electrode on the spark plug from new has a sharp edge if that makes sense and my plugs that edge is gone and looks like it melted so the electrode is now rounded ? Machinist seems to think possibly defective pistons but not positive

twistedtoy92 · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 16, 2015, 07:26:28 PM »

dirtybird · « **Reply #16 on:** Feb 16, 2015, 08:05:03 PM »

Well sorry for no pics, but for future reference I got my engine back from the machinist and he said the machining was all wrong. None of the exhaust valves were sealing and the cylinders were not cylindrical they were oblong and got tight then loose!!! so he seems to think it tore up the rings and eventually pinched the pistons to crack or possibly defective pistons. We will see hope to drop it in next week

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 18, 2015, 08:41:47 PM »

if you could get a picture of the pistons I could probably tell you

dirtybird · « **Reply #18 on:** Mar 25, 2015, 07:12:05 PM »

Sorry didnt get any of the parts back. On a good note though no oil leaks. The motor is absolutely super quiet!!! I can't believe it. Although kind of has a hard time starting and a little miss kind of like it has a fat cam. But smooths out after it warms up. Not real sure whats going on there. Don't know if needs breaking in some more or what. Only has 200 miles but has gotten better. I replaced the green sensor in the intake manifold which I think is for ECM temp and actually found a brand new factory Toyota idle air control valve that I'm going to install along with the cold start injector and cold start injector sensor and see what happens

dirtybird · « **Reply #19 on:** Mar 25, 2015, 07:13:49 PM »

I wasn't able to set the timing perfect as it keeps bouncing around but I think its close for now

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