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its gonna be the longest thread with nothin but confusing :bull crap: ever on marlin
and did not like the fact the Toyota sales had a "Private grease"
I make more money that you, my wife is hotter than yours, my thingy is bigger than yours
I would still like to add that I really beleive that the less liquid petroleum on a truck the better, one of th arguments about our closing trails is the fluid contamination of leaks... well, a leaking knuckle OR a knuckle that must be pulled apart for a trail repair is more likely to contaminate our invironment if its of such a fluid viscosity that it drips off of everything that its touched.
Y not isnt this the point of the auto industry someone has a part or "substance" that they come out with that is better than the competition. Should they just give up their blueprints or recipe to said part so others can make the same? i completly dissagree with you on this
trail repair happens ALOT, Also, if you read my first post, a great deal of us Toyota guys have been into our knuckles more then once in the last year. With grease, the stuff we don't need to remove, stays put. With #1 you will have to drain it all out and replace it ALL therefore MORE environmental impact. OK, so guys, WHO HERE HAS BEEN INTO A TOY KNUCKLE IN THE LAST YEAR and DID YOU REPLACE ALL THE GREASE or maybe just pulled the knuckle for a camo style diff swap? with this #1 grease you would have needed to drain the knuckle (there is no clean drain, so 99% chance of contamination of this $60 a gallon special order #1 grease) then had this stuff dripping off parts while you work. OR would you rather you had grease that for a camo method diff swap stayed put? ALSO, this stuff would make since considering the number of upper trunion bearings Ive seen fail, lol they were up out of there lubricant.
we can PRO and CON this all day, but truthfully, in the rock crawler world, standard GREASE is better.I know back in florida, I used to check my knuckles after runs... unbolt the lower portion of the knuckle felts and see if water came out... with your stuff this would be a mess. there were days when I would be lazy, and just let the water drain out (my poor lower trunion) but truthfully the heavy grease probably protected it, never a spot of rust on my trunions... even in salt water.
86bobbedtoy, Wenhar, BoG-ToY, Dingman., redrocket93, sparkys83yota and 0 Guests are viewing this topic. im off to work,if this miracle goop was half the price, people would be WAY more interestedhow much profit are you making Im assuming you have atleast a business liscense, and liscense for holding and shipping petroleum.
Wow, Okay so some one just ordered a gallon of grease, so got to get busy, but yes lets change the tone of this thread,
Also when you submerge a hot axle, there is less air in the axle, when you submerge the axle, it cools pulling vacuum on the knuckle, then you start going into deep water and it pushes the water in, oh yeah, happens on birf soup trucks too. And a proper camo birf swap doesn't have to be considered a trail repair only. No need to go back an mess with it!
no one in their right mind is going to let their front axel go for 30 years let alone when theyre wheelin it breaks and gets fixed with your grease as bog stated will just run out everywhere yet another good point that i have not seen you reverse with good solid facts and you bring this kurt up again he wont even endorse your product so y are you even posting about him
lol @ limping a broken birf back to the shop.. yeah you might get lucky and the shards not jam in the knuckle locking up your steering.. Like you said you didnt know jack squat about these things untill not long ago and you still know jack squat about them.
yeah, sorry, Im done, if you dont know the camo method, or like just stated... that you CANT limp home on a broken birf.... minimum you gotta pull it apart and get the broken peices (camo works good for this) you really need to give it up on selling anything that has to do with toyota front axle. go gain some knowlage of these axles
Yes I am sure that there are many hands on tricks and knowledge that you posses that I do not, See I do not even have a Toyota,I just researched the grease and lubrication aspect, but the "Trail Repair" is blown out of proportion I am sure,If not like I said I will document a "Trail Repair" with this grease in a axle, in some ways it is actually easier to deal with,But really there is quite a good chance that the "Trail Repair" would lessen if the proper lubricant was used,Now yes a grease is not going to make a birf any stronger, But it is going to ensure the upper trunnion and bushing is properly lubed, any excessive movement at these points puts a load on the axle that is not designed to take,If it where a Thompson coupling maybee but it aint and those do not have enough of a working angle for this application,Busted birfs Trail repairs, Okay, use the right grease and see how that works,
Grease isnt going to make a birfield not break. Not with how we play, When you factor in large tires and losts of gearing and traction there is a limit to the parts. And if you think grease especially in a low speed situation is going to make or break it then you sir are beyond help. I suggest you go and do some more reading on how things work and actually get some real world experience before you spout off about this wonder grease.I personally got away from toyota axles because they are messy and they piss me off when they break and having to pop the knuckle open ON THE SPOT because there is no limping these things. Hell if the bell of the birf busts you could get lucky and make it 10 feet to pull off the trail. Then you have to pull apart a nasty grease filled knuckle and scoop out nice sharp metal shards and whatnot. Having your super bull crap "grease" would make things not only worse due to how runny it is but also even harder to clean up. The we normally run is way better. couple shop rags and its clean and hey i can just toss them in the trash bag with the rest of the camp trash. Yours on the other hand i have to attempt to contain it like gear oil. Hmm.. lets see do i want to run somthing i have to contain and hope to hell that when i start taking off bearing caps that it doesnt start running over the place? HELL NOLike i said i suggest you get some real world experience in our sport, You're a grease monkey thats fine and dandy. I built strictly toyotas for 6 years in a 4 wheel drive shop and outside of that i been building toyotas for a long time for myself. I have so many diffs and rebuilt axles on the road still over the years that ive lost count. All using the standard FSM details with a few minor tweaks but not in the lub department.Anyway go research research research. Then once you've learned a little come back and talk to us when you actually have a little knowledge under your belt. Because right now all you are doing is looking like some backwoods lunatic that got a little to deep into his 'shine one day and hasnt been the same since.
Point is dude its what Toyota fills em up with, so maybee no good for you wheeling clowns but sure good for the average weekend warrior, or grocery getterIts just that your a dumbshit and think that it axle seal failure, so build your bad ass axles and pack em full of dog as per Toyota sales and carry on
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