Author Topic: Wenhar's Question Thread  (Read 46340 times)

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Wenhar

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #240 on: May 11, 2011, 09:17:53 AM »
its gonna be the longest thread with nothin but confusing :bull crap: ever on marlin


Epic,
Now I will lessen the "Static" and only do "Signal"  

We have a "Master of the Obvious" here on Marlin Crawler, these Individuals are few and far between,

Now Yes I can Understand why you guys think I am coming off as a "Know it all"

Well let me tell you, I did not even know what a "Birfield was 2 years ago"

I did not even know that there where different bases and grades of grease,

I knew nothing, But what I do know is Rigs, of all shapes and sizes, and had seen this grease a number of times just never ever wondered about it

Till I went to the local dealership and was Told it was private,,,

I am just a average mechanic, a grease monkey, and did not like the fact the Toyota sales had a "Private grease"

I figered it was my Bis to know what I was working with,,

And yes legally Toyota sales would have to at least provide a MSDS sheet for this substance,

I want it, there may be something I missed in the formulation of the "Backwoodsgoop"

So no just a average grease monkey that took the time to study the situation, and did not get spooked off by the sales dept,

yotaneck13

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #241 on: May 11, 2011, 09:23:58 AM »
and did not like the fact the Toyota sales had a "Private grease"

Y not isnt this the point of the auto industry someone has a part or "substance" that they come out with that is better than the competition.  Should they just give up their blueprints or recipe to said part so others can make the same? i completly dissagree with you on this
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Wenhar

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #242 on: May 11, 2011, 09:33:18 AM »
I would still like to add that I really beleive that the less liquid petroleum on a truck the better, one of th arguments about our closing trails is the fluid contamination of leaks... well, a leaking knuckle OR a knuckle that must be pulled apart for a trail repair is more likely to contaminate our invironment if its of such a fluid viscosity that it drips off of everything that its touched.

Understandable, Now if it does in fact last 30 years as Kurt Williams points out that is in the long run overall better for the enviroment,
What every year or so a wheeler changes out the #2 grease,? what happens then, all the dirty rags, the stuff has to go somewhere, that is way more pollution than just doing it once,, sure you may break a birf on the trail and there are experianced wheelers that can and do trail repairs, but that for the most part I think is big talk,

The rig gets limped back, thrown on the trailer and repaired @ the shop,

Now I wondered if a "Trail Repair" documentation is in order, since this is a great concern to the conciencious wheeler,

A make shift drain pan, a plastic bag, what have you, I think I could do a trail repair on this axle and not cause a disaster,

A while back I read a article about on some trails you need to have a "Toilet" I liked the idea Bill Burke talked about in his latest article in Toyota owner magazine, where he Burned the waste by mixing it with fuel oil,

Same diff, catch the birf soup, toss it in your incinerating toilet, and burn it,

Regardless, I have consulted with fellow mechanics, about the best way to go about informing folks of this situation, I was told it would have to start in the wheeler community and work is way back,
Yes the daily driver grocery getter pile stands to benefit the most with the longevity this provides,
But these folks dont know about axles, or grease,
They look to the aftermarket,,

yotaneck13

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #243 on: May 11, 2011, 09:38:07 AM »
no one in their right mind is going to let their front axel go for 30 years let alone when theyre wheelin it :pokinit: breaks and gets fixed with your grease as bog stated will just run out everywhere yet another good point that i have not seen you reverse with good solid facts and you bring this kurt up again he wont even endorse your product so y are you even posting about him :tantrum:
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BoG-ToY

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #244 on: May 11, 2011, 09:43:58 AM »
trail repair happens ALOT, Also, if you read my first post, a great deal of us Toyota guys have been into our knuckles more then once in the last year. With grease, the stuff we don't need to remove, stays put. With #1 you will have to drain it all out and replace it ALL therefore MORE environmental impact.

OK, so guys, WHO HERE HAS BEEN INTO A TOY KNUCKLE IN THE LAST YEAR and DID YOU REPLACE ALL THE GREASE or maybe just pulled the knuckle for a camo style diff swap? with this #1 grease you would have needed to drain the knuckle (there is no clean drain, so 99% chance of contamination of this $60 a gallon special order #1 grease)  
then had this stuff dripping off parts while you work. OR would you rather you had grease that for a camo method diff swap stayed put?

ALSO, this stuff would make since considering the number of upper trunion bearings Ive seen fail, lol they were up out of there lubricant.
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

Wenhar

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #245 on: May 11, 2011, 09:45:27 AM »
Y not isnt this the point of the auto industry someone has a part or "substance" that they come out with that is better than the competition.  Should they just give up their blueprints or recipe to said part so others can make the same? i completly dissagree with you on this

True Yota neck, all to true,

This grease is proprietary, Trade Secret, or other wise known as Intellectual property,

Now folks like to make fun of me about this but you brought it up good, level 3 discussion you are there,

How do you legally obtain a Trade Secret, it is done by means of "Reverse Engineering" or Illegal industrial spying,

Now I sure as heck didnt go over to Japan and sneak into the factory and steel some grease from the poor Chinese dudes that they strip of their passports and over work and under pay over their in Japan,

Nope it has started, the Brick wall of Toyota sales Bull :pokinit: has been breached, I will slowly step out of the way and let leaders in the aftermarket such as Marlin address this situation,

Thank you , I have worked tirelessly to get to this point, a small time mechanic that came set out to take out a source of Mis information,

I did not like the fact that Toyota sales engineers tricked my fellow grease monkeys and mechanics about grease,

Just did not seem right

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #246 on: May 11, 2011, 09:48:22 AM »
we can PRO and CON this all day, but truthfully, in the rock crawler world, standard GREASE is better.

I know back in florida, I used to check my knuckles after runs... unbolt the lower portion of the knuckle felts and see if water came out... with your stuff this would be a mess.  there were days when I would be lazy, and just let the water drain out (my poor lower trunion) but truthfully the heavy grease probably protected it, never a spot of rust on my trunions... even in salt water.
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

Wenhar

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #247 on: May 11, 2011, 09:49:25 AM »
trail repair happens ALOT, Also, if you read my first post, a great deal of us Toyota guys have been into our knuckles more then once in the last year. With grease, the stuff we don't need to remove, stays put. With #1 you will have to drain it all out and replace it ALL therefore MORE environmental impact.

OK, so guys, WHO HERE HAS BEEN INTO A TOY KNUCKLE IN THE LAST YEAR and DID YOU REPLACE ALL THE GREASE or maybe just pulled the knuckle for a camo style diff swap? with this #1 grease you would have needed to drain the knuckle (there is no clean drain, so 99% chance of contamination of this $60 a gallon special order #1 grease)  
then had this stuff dripping off parts while you work. OR would you rather you had grease that for a camo method diff swap stayed put?

ALSO, this stuff would make since considering the number of upper trunion bearings Ive seen fail, lol they were up out of there lubricant.

If you just opening that thing up, not cleaning all the grease, it is a half ass job, or trail repair sure,
but then if your smart once you get it back to the shop, fix it right,

Otherwise you doing a shitty job, and no wonder your always playing with your excessive and prematurely discharging balls,


Wenhar

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #248 on: May 11, 2011, 09:54:20 AM »
we can PRO and CON this all day, but truthfully, in the rock crawler world, standard GREASE is better.

I know back in florida, I used to check my knuckles after runs... unbolt the lower portion of the knuckle felts and see if water came out... with your stuff this would be a mess.  there were days when I would be lazy, and just let the water drain out (my poor lower trunion) but truthfully the heavy grease probably protected it, never a spot of rust on my trunions... even in salt water.

The whole reason water is getting in there to begin with is because of the thick grease, if your draining water out of the knuckle every run

HUGE enviormental disaster, with this factory type fluid grease a viscous seal forms around the wiper,

And since this assembly is not vented  pressure does build, a small amount sure but a slightly pressurized knuckle assembly,

I have heard of tests done of air leak down, and played around with it a bit, even the badly grooved pitted knuckle on the Wally rig I re did and documented,
Held a pound of air pressure for a bit,

Not possible with a #2 grease, that is why your getting water in the thing,

BoG-ToY

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #249 on: May 11, 2011, 10:00:18 AM »
Weird cuz it came in through the steering arms
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

86bobbedtoy

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #250 on: May 11, 2011, 10:01:52 AM »
86bobbedtoy, Wenhar, BoG-ToY, Dingman., redrocket93, sparkys83yota and 0 Guests are viewing this topic.
im off to work,
if this miracle goop was half the price, people would be WAY more interested
how much profit are you making?
Im assuming you have atleast a business liscense, and liscense for holding and shipping petroleum.

BoG-ToY

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #251 on: May 11, 2011, 10:06:10 AM »
Also when you submerge a hot axle, there is less air in the axle, when you submerge the axle, it cools pulling vacuum on the knuckle, then you start going into deep water and it pushes the water in, oh yeah, happens on birf soup trucks too.
And a proper camo birf swap doesn't have to be considered a trail repair only. No need to go back an mess with it!
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #252 on: May 11, 2011, 11:21:48 AM »
86bobbedtoy, Wenhar, BoG-ToY, Dingman., redrocket93, sparkys83yota and 0 Guests are viewing this topic.
im off to work,
if this miracle goop was half the price, people would be WAY more interested
how much profit are you making 
Im assuming you have atleast a business liscense, and liscense for holding and shipping petroleum.
 
He's mixing grease and gear oil in a bucket.  The only proprietary secret is the ratio that it is mixed.  You can make your own "super secret steering knuckle lube" at home.  Just get some cheap ass gear oil and a couple tubs of grease. Introduce those two ingredients to a bucket and a stirring stick and BAM!!!    You got you some 20 dollar  SKL #1


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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #253 on: May 11, 2011, 11:25:18 AM »
wow
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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #254 on: May 11, 2011, 11:30:39 AM »
Wow, Okay so some one just ordered a gallon of grease, so got to get busy, but yes lets change the tone of this thread,


See what I mean? 



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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #255 on: May 11, 2011, 12:30:46 PM »
no, you need a super cool immersion blender to make it not chunky.

BUT, you do need to keep in mind additives...  jeff maxwell would have some info on those maybe? but hes also got some super cool grease too... lol
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

Wenhar

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #256 on: May 11, 2011, 12:37:46 PM »
wow

Wow is right,

Level 3 Masters of the obvious here on Marlin Forums,

I am amazed, very happy, Toyota sales dudes and their Black propaganda Forums are going to be pissed,

Thank you Crawlers, Give them hell

Wenhar

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #257 on: May 11, 2011, 12:50:19 PM »
Also when you submerge a hot axle, there is less air in the axle, when you submerge the axle, it cools pulling vacuum on the knuckle, then you start going into deep water and it pushes the water in, oh yeah, happens on birf soup trucks too.
And a proper camo birf swap doesn't have to be considered a trail repair only. No need to go back an mess with it!

True a heated vessel rapidly cooled will create a vacuum,

So have to wonder if this negative atmosphere will draw water thru the wiper seal  OR

thru the vented 3 rd member, which ever it is easiest, need to test it, but I am sure that Toyota engineers pondered all these aspects,

Rather mind boggling for this poor grease monkey, but your bringing up some good points,

I am going to say that the possible vacuum you describe will pull easier thru the axle seal rather than the wiper,

But maybee not, need to test maybee? put some real sensitive gauges on it and rally the crap out of it and then dunk it in ice cold water,

Man that would be fun,,, well some day maybee,,

Wenhar

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #258 on: May 11, 2011, 12:58:47 PM »
no one in their right mind is going to let their front axel go for 30 years let alone when theyre wheelin it :pokinit: breaks and gets fixed with your grease as bog stated will just run out everywhere yet another good point that i have not seen you reverse with good solid facts and you bring this kurt up again he wont even endorse your product so y are you even posting about him :tantrum:

The point is knowledge of a "Correct Fluid" is why I site Mr Williams, in no way do I need the forked fingered sales dude to back my product,

I just sent him a sample to see if it qualified as a "Correct Fluid" since he seemed to be the only one that knew such a substance existed,,

That is all,

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #259 on: May 11, 2011, 01:04:26 PM »
"And a proper camo birf swap"


I am not hip to this fresh jive, What is a Camo Birf Swap ??? sorry but I am a newbie, and need to learn the lingo,

so far sounds like a slacker fix, but please explain,

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #260 on: May 11, 2011, 01:12:32 PM »
lol  @ limping a broken birf back to the shop.. yeah you might get lucky and the shards not jam in the knuckle locking up your steering.. Like you said you didnt know jack squat about these things untill not long ago and you still know jack squat about them.
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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #261 on: May 11, 2011, 01:24:43 PM »
yeah, sorry, Im done, if you dont know the camo method, or like just stated... that you CANT limp home on a broken birf.... minimum you gotta pull it apart and get the broken peices (camo works good for this) you really need to give it up on selling anything that has to do with toyota front axle. go gain some knowlage of these axles
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

Wenhar

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #262 on: May 11, 2011, 01:25:23 PM »
lol  @ limping a broken birf back to the shop.. yeah you might get lucky and the shards not jam in the knuckle locking up your steering.. Like you said you didnt know jack squat about these things untill not long ago and you still know jack squat about them.

Yes I am sure that there are many hands on tricks and knowledge that you posses that I do not, See I do not even have a Toyota,

I just researched the grease and lubrication aspect, but the "Trail Repair" is blown out of proportion I am sure,

If not like I said I will document a "Trail Repair" with this grease in a axle, in some ways it is actually easier to deal with,

But really there is quite a good chance that the "Trail Repair" would lessen if the proper lubricant was used,

Now yes a grease is not going to make a birf any stronger, But it is going to ensure the upper trunnion and bushing is properly lubed, any excessive movement at these points puts a load on the axle that is not designed to take,

If it where a Thompson coupling maybee but it aint and those do not have enough of a working angle for this application,

Busted birfs Trail repairs, Okay, use the right grease and see how that works,

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #263 on: May 11, 2011, 01:26:36 PM »
yeah, sorry, Im done, if you dont know the camo method, or like just stated... that you CANT limp home on a broken birf.... minimum you gotta pull it apart and get the broken peices (camo works good for this) you really need to give it up on selling anything that has to do with toyota front axle. go gain some knowlage of these axles

Hey You got me dont know what a camo repair is, if your not cleaning out all the old grease,

Slacker repair, plain and simple, and yes you are done ,,,

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #264 on: May 11, 2011, 01:37:37 PM »
Yes I am sure that there are many hands on tricks and knowledge that you posses that I do not, See I do not even have a Toyota,

I just researched the grease and lubrication aspect, but the "Trail Repair" is blown out of proportion I am sure,

If not like I said I will document a "Trail Repair" with this grease in a axle, in some ways it is actually easier to deal with,

But really there is quite a good chance that the "Trail Repair" would lessen if the proper lubricant was used,

Now yes a grease is not going to make a birf any stronger, But it is going to ensure the upper trunnion and bushing is properly lubed, any excessive movement at these points puts a load on the axle that is not designed to take,

If it where a Thompson coupling maybee but it aint and those do not have enough of a working angle for this application,

Busted birfs Trail repairs, Okay, use the right grease and see how that works,

Grease isnt going to make a birfield not break. Not with how we play, When you factor in large tires and losts of gearing and traction there is a limit to the parts. And if you think grease especially in a low speed situation is going to make or break it then you sir are beyond help. I suggest you go and do some more reading on how things work and actually get some real world experience before you spout off about this wonder grease.

I personally got away from toyota axles because they are messy and they piss me off when they break and having to pop the knuckle open ON THE SPOT because there is no limping these things. Hell if the bell of the birf busts you could get lucky and make it 10 feet to pull off the trail. Then you have to pull apart a nasty grease filled knuckle and scoop out nice sharp metal shards and whatnot. Having your super bull crap "grease" would make things not only worse due to how runny it is but also even harder to clean up.  The :pokinit: we normally run is way better. couple shop rags and its clean and hey i can just toss them in the trash bag with the rest of the camp trash. Yours on the other hand i have to attempt to contain it like gear oil. Hmm.. lets see do i want to run somthing i have to contain and hope to hell that when i start taking off bearing caps that it doesnt start running over the place?  HELL NO

Like i said i suggest you get some real world experience in our sport, You're a grease monkey thats fine and dandy. I built strictly toyotas for 6 years in a 4 wheel drive shop and outside of that i been building toyotas for a long time for myself. I have so many diffs and rebuilt axles on the road still over the years that ive lost count. All using the standard FSM details with a few minor tweaks but not in the lub department.


Anyway go research research research. Then once you've learned a little come back and talk to us when you actually have a little knowledge under your belt. Because right now all you are doing is looking like some backwoods lunatic that got a little to deep into his 'shine one day and hasnt been the same since.
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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #265 on: May 11, 2011, 01:47:47 PM »
Grease isnt going to make a birfield not break. Not with how we play, When you factor in large tires and losts of gearing and traction there is a limit to the parts. And if you think grease especially in a low speed situation is going to make or break it then you sir are beyond help. I suggest you go and do some more reading on how things work and actually get some real world experience before you spout off about this wonder grease.

I personally got away from toyota axles because they are messy and they piss me off when they break and having to pop the knuckle open ON THE SPOT because there is no limping these things. Hell if the bell of the birf busts you could get lucky and make it 10 feet to pull off the trail. Then you have to pull apart a nasty grease filled knuckle and scoop out nice sharp metal shards and whatnot. Having your super bull crap "grease" would make things not only worse due to how runny it is but also even harder to clean up.  The :pokinit: we normally run is way better. couple shop rags and its clean and hey i can just toss them in the trash bag with the rest of the camp trash. Yours on the other hand i have to attempt to contain it like gear oil. Hmm.. lets see do i want to run somthing i have to contain and hope to hell that when i start taking off bearing caps that it doesnt start running over the place?  HELL NO

Like i said i suggest you get some real world experience in our sport, You're a grease monkey thats fine and dandy. I built strictly toyotas for 6 years in a 4 wheel drive shop and outside of that i been building toyotas for a long time for myself. I have so many diffs and rebuilt axles on the road still over the years that ive lost count. All using the standard FSM details with a few minor tweaks but not in the lub department.


Anyway go research research research. Then once you've learned a little come back and talk to us when you actually have a little knowledge under your belt. Because right now all you are doing is looking like some backwoods lunatic that got a little to deep into his 'shine one day and hasnt been the same since.

Point is dude its what Toyota fills em up with, so maybee no good for you wheeling clowns but sure good for the average weekend warrior, or grocery getter

Its just that your a dumbshit and think that it axle seal failure,  so build your bad ass axles and pack em full of dog :pokinit: as per Toyota sales and carry on


Wenhar

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #266 on: May 11, 2011, 01:53:58 PM »
Hey Super Yota,

Just so you know I did ponder your ideas about pitching this as something "NEW" but I just cant,

Sure this would be way easier if it was some sort of new Super Synthetic goop but it aint,

I have made may attempts to keep the tone of this thread nice, but you see more and more nonsense,

But Master of the Obvious folks to,,,

Just plain weird that these hard core wheeling dudes are squeemish over a little grease, make no sense at all,

Use the grease that they add perfume and dye to to appeal to your femine senses,

Just plain weird,

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #267 on: May 11, 2011, 01:57:07 PM »
 :maddest: :mad: :tantrum: :blah: this guy is so annoying!  :inthedark: :wall: :idiot:
-Zack- aka uncle Zack!                GOT MARLIN?

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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #268 on: May 11, 2011, 01:58:52 PM »
Point is dude its what Toyota fills em up with, so maybee no good for you wheeling clowns but sure good for the average weekend warrior, or grocery getter

Its just that your a dumbshit and think that it axle seal failure,  so build your bad ass axles and pack em full of dog :pokinit: as per Toyota sales and carry on



Badass axles? lol you mean my 1tons ? i hate toyota axles i think they are trash. Point is that it IS an axle seal failure and you're to ignorant to know any better.

But what would i know right ?



Oh by the way thats a true dana 60 under there. not that " oh i figured it was one cause it was a 250" I actually do know my :pokinit: and do know what im talking about because i actually have the hands on experience over a looottt longer perriod of time than you have.

Its hillarious how you back peddle so much . "so maybee no good for you wheeling clowns but sure good for the average weekend warrior, or grocery getter"  now you say maybe its not better for us ? lol you're more wobbly than a politician . Cut the bull crap dude and talk to us like human beings and maybe it will be returned. You're so far beyond delusional in this whole spectrum of "toyota sales" its extremely sad.
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Re: Wenhar's Question Thread
« Reply #269 on: May 11, 2011, 02:01:20 PM »
well put. nice truck btw..also nice runner.
-Zack- aka uncle Zack!                GOT MARLIN?

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