Author Topic: Toymin8r's 1989 1UZFE Lexus v8 Powered Pickup  (Read 117982 times)

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Dr.Maxwe001

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IF YOUR LOOKING OUT THE FRONT OF YOUR 4X4 AND YOU CANT SEE THEN JUST TURN ON YOUR WIPERS. BUT THEN THINGS GET ALL MESSED UP LIKE IN LIFE.

WHEN YOU GET TO THE END OF YOUR ROPE JUST THINK THAT ALONG TIME AGO  YOU WERE THE FASTEST LITTLE SWIMMER TO THE EGG

08:55:22 PM BeccaLoo24 – i like to screw things

$99 scratch and dent drill press has drilled more holes than Ron Jeremy.


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Nice work Steve. Mine is next right? So what are the weight and hp/torque numbers on that beast? Got links for more info, details?
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Toymin8r [OP]

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Nice work Steve. Mine is next right? So what are the weight and hp/torque numbers on that beast? Got links for more info, details?

Not sure on the exact weight of the engine.  Its all aluminum so its pretty light.   It falls somewhere in between the weight of the 4cyl and the v6. **  Factory numbers on HP are 255 but with the open exhaust and air cleaner it should be closer to 300.   I don't remember the torque.   They are capable of big numbers but there are very few places that work on the factory ECU.  I've read into using an aftermarket ecu but I think I'd be giving up reliability.  It will be plenty for what I need.  those numbers don't sound like a lot but for 1992 that was higher rater horsepower than the Corvette, Camaro or Mustang GT.

**EDIT**  the dressed weight of the 1uz-fe is listed at 390 lbs.   for comaprison, Chevy small block v8 is 575lbs, 22re is about 340lbs, 3.0 v6 is

Other than the wiring its really not that hard.   If you rounded up all the parts I'll bet the two of us could get most of it slapped out over a weekend.  I'm just a slacker so mine's taking forever.    I found that a v6 truck is better to start out with because things like fuel lines and power steering lines all cross over and work on the Lexus.  
« Last Edit: Mar 18, 2010, 12:26:56 PM by Toymin8r »
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE
AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


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BeccaLoo24 – i can toss grown men.... so dont doubt me

dniel

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 :cheer: :cheer: :cheer: :cheer:

I just noted you finally started this. :gap:

Have you given any thought to which heater house goes to which fitting on the fire wall. I was looking at this the other day and realized I have no clue. It could be it doesn't matter but I'm not sure.
1uz-fe, 1 tons, 44" tsl

Toymin8r [OP]

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It does matter because the heater valve has to be on the inlet side.   I think this is how its suppoes to go.....I think.





Also did some more re-assembly tonight. 


YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE
AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


Quote
BeccaLoo24 – i can toss grown men.... so dont doubt me

Toymin8r [OP]

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I had a bit of an issue wht the shifter linkage yesterday.    I am using a shifter from a 2000 4Runner.   For whatever reason the travel distance from park to low is 4 inches in it.  The Lexus only travels 3.5 inches so the gear positions weren't lining up right.   The Lexus shifter would in no way work so I had to play around with the lengths of the pivot piece under the shifter and on the tranny so the gear positions matched.   It was aggrevating the crap out of me so I didn't take pics but I'll get some later.  Aslo, after cutting and re-welding the linkage from the lexus I discovered that the linkage from a 2000 4Runner was the perfect length. :smack: Live and learn.  
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE
AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


Quote
BeccaLoo24 – i can toss grown men.... so dont doubt me

Dr.Maxwe001

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:therethere: its ok we understand
IF YOUR LOOKING OUT THE FRONT OF YOUR 4X4 AND YOU CANT SEE THEN JUST TURN ON YOUR WIPERS. BUT THEN THINGS GET ALL MESSED UP LIKE IN LIFE.

WHEN YOU GET TO THE END OF YOUR ROPE JUST THINK THAT ALONG TIME AGO  YOU WERE THE FASTEST LITTLE SWIMMER TO THE EGG

08:55:22 PM BeccaLoo24 – i like to screw things

$99 scratch and dent drill press has drilled more holes than Ron Jeremy.


http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48342.0




[img]http://bo

KDXSR5

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This is looking good! :thumbs: I can't wait to see it done.

Toymin8r [OP]

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Did a few more things tonight. 




The fan comes really close to the front of the engine.  This is why careful planning is necessary if you want a puller fan. 



I got a whole upper intake from a JDM Toyota Soarer (Its what the Lexus SC400 is called in Japan).  I bought it mainly for the factory EGR bypass stuff the the Japanese engine doesn't use.   It also had a Toyota emblem instead of the Lexus one.   

Which one do you guy think I should use. 

YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE
AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


Quote
BeccaLoo24 – i can toss grown men.... so dont doubt me

KDXSR5

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Lexus... give it a LITTLE class :yupyup:

lilbuddy

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Definitely a Lexus emblem since thats what you pulled the motor out of...

Im totally jealous. Ive always loved this motor. Plus a 22re in a 2nd gen runner on 40s totally blows. From talking to you before, you will probably have less money into this swap then most people do with lets say...a 3.4 swap.

You recall the places that had the r151 bellhousings?

Cant wait to see vidoes of this done.
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I got a whole upper intake from a JDM Toyota Soarer (Its what the Lexus SC400 is called in Japan).  I bought it mainly for the factory EGR bypass stuff the the Japanese engine doesn't use.   It also had a Toyota emblem instead of the Lexus one.   

Which one do you guy think I should use. 



IMO
DEFINITELY TOYOTA!!!!!   it shouldn't even be a question!!!!
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another vote for lexus, you need a poll so this awesome build thread doesn't get clogged with emblem votes :)
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Dr.Maxwe001

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I say a lexus beside who wants to see a toyota motor in a toyota when you can have the luxury of a lexus  :yupyup:
IF YOUR LOOKING OUT THE FRONT OF YOUR 4X4 AND YOU CANT SEE THEN JUST TURN ON YOUR WIPERS. BUT THEN THINGS GET ALL MESSED UP LIKE IN LIFE.

WHEN YOU GET TO THE END OF YOUR ROPE JUST THINK THAT ALONG TIME AGO  YOU WERE THE FASTEST LITTLE SWIMMER TO THE EGG

08:55:22 PM BeccaLoo24 – i like to screw things

$99 scratch and dent drill press has drilled more holes than Ron Jeremy.


http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=48342.0




[img]http://bo

CrawlerBrennan

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Lets go camping

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I'm diggin it! I vote for the LEXUS badge as well. As far as your e-fan... what model is it? Any specs on it? I think I might be in need of a higher CFM puller fan than the one I currently have on my 3RZ swap. Something isn't cutting the mustard, and I think it's the Hayden 16" ain't cutting it. I think it pulls around 1200 cfm?? I might have an air bubble in my system, or my radiator is too small. I don't know yet.

dniel

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I'm going to take that plate off of mine and replace it with one of these.  :gap:

1uz-fe, 1 tons, 44" tsl

Toymin8r [OP]

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As far as your e-fan... what model is it? Any specs on it? I think I might be in need of a higher CFM puller fan than the one I currently have on my 3RZ swap.

Its a Flex-a-lite Low profile.  I forget the model number but its rated at 2500cfm.   I'm using it due to space constraints.   If it would have fit the older Ford Taurus fan is very popular for custom installs.  It's rated at like 4000cfm.  


***Flex-a-lite is Model number 118.
« Last Edit: Apr 14, 2010, 11:05:42 AM by Toymin8r »
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE
AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


Quote
BeccaLoo24 – i can toss grown men.... so dont doubt me

wslytoy

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Its a Flex-a-lite Low profile.  I forget the model number but its rated at 2500cfm.   I'm using it due to space constraints.   If it would have fit the older Ford Taurus fan is very popular for custom installs.  It's rated at like 4000cfm.   

yeah I had a Taurus fan, but I couldn't get it was too thick and came in contact w/ the pulley system. I might have to look into something else if I can't fix this problem.

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yeah I had a Taurus fan, but I couldn't get it was too thick and came in contact w/ the pulley system. I might have to look into something else if I can't fix this problem.

Look into the late 90's volvo 740 station wagon fans. They pull more air than the taurus on HI, they are a 2spd fan, have a start capacitor and a set of matched relays/2 speed control atttched to the fan. They are a positive ground setup, but easy to hook into a hayden controller. They unbolt from the shroud and are easy to make a custom shroud to bolt them too. Very thin for a OE e-fan. I bought 2 with the relays and shrouds for $23 from the local u pull it. They are thinner than the low profile flex a lite 1600cfm fan I HAD. Project is lookin great man! :biggthumpup:
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Toymin8r [OP]

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From talking to you before, you will probably have less money into this swap then most people do with lets say...a 3.4 swap.

You recall the places that had the r151 bellhousings?

After parting out the rest of the car I had about a $900 surplus to spend on the swap.   The transfer case adapter was the most expensive thing I bought at $550.00.  Then the radiator and cooling fan were $250.00   Exhaust tubing was about $80.00.    I did buy tune up parts and a timing belt for the engine and that stuff was almost $500 but it really wasn't required.  Its also going to cost about $500 for wiring so I figure it will be a total cost of around $1000 to $1500 total.   I didn't include the dual t-case setup or driveshafts since I was going to do that anyway.
« Last Edit: Mar 27, 2010, 07:16:54 AM by Toymin8r »
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE
AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


Quote
BeccaLoo24 – i can toss grown men.... so dont doubt me

wslytoy

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Oh man I don't even wanna know what kinda money I have in my 3RZ swap. It's getting waaaaay past $1500 at this point. It was past $1500 before I even had the motor in the truck :D. The little nuts and bolts are what REALLY kill you if you don't have donor vehicle. I bet I've bought $150 just in nuts and bolts from ACE Hardware alone. :shake:. And it's still not where I can drive it daily on public roads. :willynilly:

Toymin8r [OP]

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Got a few more minor things done.

Finished the exhaust.  I found a new cheap 40 Series Flowmaster on Craigslist instead of using the Borla I had.  The Borla was one of a set and I did't really want to use a high dollar muffler on a trail truck.  



Going with a K&N open filter for now.  I'm not a big K&N fan or even an open element fan because I think they allow too much dust to enter the engine but the factory air box was going to be a headache to fit the way I wanted it to.  That will be a later project.
« Last Edit: Apr 14, 2010, 11:08:47 AM by Toymin8r »
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE
AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


Quote
BeccaLoo24 – i can toss grown men.... so dont doubt me

Toymin8r [OP]

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Ran the 2 rear O/2 sensors through the floor.


I made a battery tray for the drivers side.    I made it so I can use the factory clamp.

YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE
AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


Quote
BeccaLoo24 – i can toss grown men.... so dont doubt me

THK Matt

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:popcorn:

Lookin mighty Steve!
2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
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Toymin8r [OP]

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I thought I'd post an update. I had a local guy build my wiring harness and he called me yesterday and told be he got it started. So I went over there today and everything works perfect. The engine sounds awesome. The wiring is still kind of all over the place but its coming along great. All the gauges work and its not throwing any codes. He's supposed to have it completed next weekend. Unfortunately I didn't get any pics or video yet.
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE
AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


Quote
BeccaLoo24 – i can toss grown men.... so dont doubt me

THK Matt

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he has your truck in his shop? :gap:

So exciting man.
2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
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muddytaco

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 that is excellent to find out about the tranny adapters, ive known where one of these cars that was totalled with 30k miles on it and has sat inside since, for a grand, so i will be buyin it, i just never looked to see, thanks  :thumbs:
95 tacoma 5" revtek/bilstein detroit locked 9" with drilled and slotted rotors front and back, 8000# mile marker winch, 16" crager crawlers, too much other crap to mention
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Toymin8r [OP]

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he has your truck in his shop? :gap:

So exciting man.

He doesn't have a shop.  It's in his garage.  He just understands electrical wiring a lot better than I do...and he's a Toyota nut too.   Maybe I can talk him into posting some info on his 1987 4Runner with a TRD Supercharged 3.4.

that is excellent to find out about the tranny adapters, ive known where one of these cars that was totalled with 30k miles on it and has sat inside since, for a grand, so i will be buyin it, i just never looked to see, thanks  :thumbs:

Actually with a Tacoma you don't even need the adapter.  All you need is a doner A340F from a 1996-2002 4WD Tacoma or 4Runner to get the factoy t-case adapter and output shaft.  I needed the Inchworm adapter to use the older right side drop transfer cases. 
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE
AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.

IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU HAVE AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.


Quote
BeccaLoo24 – i can toss grown men.... so dont doubt me

 
 
 
 
 

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