Author Topic: Making Of The Willy Mammoth (Read 766296 times)

MiniSimp · « **Reply #3480 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 10:24:34 AM »

The Mammoth is now a lumber rack!

$I\'m Down$

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #3481 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 10:31:13 AM »

Time for a set of Bobby Long hubs

Bobby, get busy

Also there is some grinding going on inside the ball where the birfield has been hitting. That can't be right.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #3482 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 11:12:14 AM »

I just found a broken hub dowl pin and the holes for the pins are oval from working back and forth.

I guess it's time to drill for 6 dowl pins, Then what is going to brake next?

Guess I need to go a little easier on them when I get hung up.

skipnrocks · « **Reply #3483 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 11:13:54 AM »

Are you going to put 42s on the mammoth this year? I thought i remembered reading that somewhere?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #3484 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 11:17:51 AM »

time for rockwells

skipnrocks · « **Reply #3485 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 11:24:40 AM »

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on Mar 15, 2008, 11:17:51 AM

time for rockwells

no way, I heard he was going to cast portals for his yota axles with a lighter and a spoon!!

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #3486 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 11:46:50 AM »

No lighters and spoons for me, that is all we would need is for me to start that crap.

No 42's for my heavy foot till I get something stronger like Volvo portals, but that is dobtfull to happen. I would rather start another build and leave this one alone.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #3487 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 11:50:08 AM »

Quote from: skipnrocks on Mar 15, 2008, 11:24:40 AM

no way, I heard he was going to cast portals for his yota axles with a lighter and a spoon!!

Yup, he is using a chromo-unobtanium alloy...heat treated to a brazillian degreez and quenched in liquid nitrogen. Tensile strength is conservatively rated at 600,000 PSI...machine wouldn't go any higher.

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #3488 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 11:56:40 AM »

C'mon Mr W, 42's aint that big....

I'm piecing together the uber yota axle parts. ARP studs for everything, 6 stud knuckes, yadda yadda then I'll just be breaking r&p's no biggy right?

Mammoth looks good, I know how rigs end up as a storage shelf after sitting for awhile.... It took a long time to dig you yota out after sitting for a couple years.. So whats the WB at these days? I read the whole thread again awhile back but I don't recall you mentioning that one.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #3489 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 12:03:00 PM »

100"

Maybe if I can't break anything for a while I will reconsider 42's, but first I have to wear out my new 38's.

boggerunner · « **Reply #3490 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 12:23:53 PM »

sorry about not getting back to u on buyin the sd22, but we found out that shipping was gonna cost about 2 grand, so he stuffed a built 7mgte pushing 300 ponies in the truck instead till he gets the funds for the 1kzte.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #3491 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 02:50:47 PM »

I just ordered some 5/16 hardened dowel pins from MSC. They are rated for 150,000 lbs per sq inch shear strength.

I am going to setup the milling machine to drill for 6 pins, that should hold them so something else will break instead.

My bet is on the ARB spider gears, too bad that is a $750 repair.

Maybe I should just leave it like it is since I have already broke spider gears and only one dowel pin?

I could change the wheel hub and locking hub for next to nothing.

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #3492 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 07:54:32 PM »

cheaper, easier to get to/ repair would be the way to go. Good to see it's all coming back together. Time to go thrash on it some more.

Oh, did you determine the cause of the stall-out on that steep reverse climb? was it just that the fuel sump ran dry?

NorCalToy · « **Reply #3493 on:** Mar 15, 2008, 09:15:58 PM »

that looks like a clean version of my garage, good to see some pics though. shouldnt you be preparing the rig for the anual roundup? the last two years at this time you were...

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #3494 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 05:45:32 AM »

Quote from: NorCalToy on Mar 15, 2008, 09:15:58 PM

shouldnt you be preparing the rig for the anual roundup? the last two years at this time you were...

Last year I spent around 12k on it and still have not got caught up yet. There will be no MCR for us this year, still working on the house.

Quote from: 93tonkatoy on Mar 15, 2008, 07:54:32 PM

did you determine the cause of the stall-out on that steep reverse climb? was it just that the fuel sump ran dry?

Best guess is yes, I think the pickup tube is in the back of the drop sump and it sucked air at that angle.

I should put a flexable hose with a clunk in there like they do with RC planes.

Redbeard1 · « **Reply #3495 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 07:04:40 AM »

Damn Mark go easy on the skinny pedal next time...

skipnrocks · « **Reply #3496 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 07:07:27 AM »

Quote from: Willy Mammoth on Mar 16, 2008, 05:45:32 AM

Last year I spent around 12k on it and still have not got caught up yet. There will be no MCR for us this year, still working on the house.

Best guess is yes, I think the pickup tube is in the back of the drop sump and it sucked air at that angle.

I should put a flexable hose with a clunk in there like they do with RC planes.

Are you taking about the pickups that swivel to stay in the sloshing fuel? Did you put baffels in when you built your tank?

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #3497 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 09:49:05 AM »

Quote from: skipnrocks on Mar 16, 2008, 07:07:27 AM

Are you taking about the pickups that swivel to stay in the sloshing fuel? Did you put baffels in when you built your tank?

Yes, and I did use baffels and also a drop sump. The hill in question was 35* to 40* and I was going up backwards. Because the pickup tube is at the back of the drop section it sucked air. I never had a problem going up frontwards. (is that even a word?

)

Then again, I wonder if the engine even had oil pressure at that angle.

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #3498 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 10:41:03 AM »

oil pressure is over rated... There are a LOT of trails that by the time you are at the top or bottom of your engine is starting to starve for oil.... Rod bearings get replaced pretty often around here....

100" that isnt too bad at all. Kinda short for my taste but a far cry better than what you started with for sure.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #3499 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 12:18:04 PM »

Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on Mar 16, 2008, 10:41:03 AM

oil pressure is over rated... There are a LOT of trails that by the time you are at the top or bottom of your engine is starting to starve for oil.... Rod bearings get replaced pretty often around here....

That's why I started wondering if dry sump is even an option.

skipnrocks · « **Reply #3500 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 02:40:20 PM »

Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on Mar 16, 2008, 10:41:03 AM

oil pressure is over rated... There are a LOT of trails that by the time you are at the top or bottom of your engine is starting to starve for oil.... Rod bearings get replaced pretty often around here....

100" that isnt too bad at all. Kinda short for my taste but a far cry better than what you started with for sure.

I saw something I thought was cool for motors but I dont know if it can be put on just any, its for race cars so they dont get starved for oil, and it pump it through a closed system rather than a trickle system, that way even when cornering it can get the oil it needs. Would be cool if they had that for fuel also, i guess thats one advantage to propane.

If you have baffles would a flexable hose do anything?

How was it getting that little diesel going after sucking air? I know most of the diesels I have had were a pita to get going unless they had a manual primer pump...

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #3501 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 06:24:43 PM »

Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on Mar 16, 2008, 10:41:03 AM

oil pressure is over rated... There are a LOT of trails that by the time you are at the top or bottom of your engine is starting to starve for oil.... Rod bearings get replaced pretty often around here....

100" that isnt too bad at all. Kinda short for my taste but a far cry better than what you started with for sure.

Much better than 78" huh?

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #3502 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 06:41:59 PM »

Ya think? Ive still got you by over 2' but thats another story....

THK Matt · « **Reply #3503 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 07:52:47 PM »

whats the best WB for a xcab yoter

MiniSimp · « **Reply #3504 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 07:53:47 PM »

Quote from: ImaHoToy87 on Mar 16, 2008, 07:52:47 PM

whats the best WB for a xcab yoter

110"

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #3505 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 08:00:50 PM »

Why shorten the stock wheelbase? Stock is 112.20".

THK Matt · « **Reply #3506 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 08:05:00 PM »

Quote from: MiniSimp on Mar 16, 2008, 07:53:47 PM

110"

really?

Quote from: WHITE_TRASH on Mar 16, 2008, 08:00:50 PM

Why shorten the stock wheelbase? Stock is 112.20".

well if i ever caged my rear with a custom flatbed... id shorten it.

Duffil · « **Reply #3507 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 08:08:34 PM »

I am at 113 and it's a little long at times.

THK Matt · « **Reply #3508 on:** Mar 16, 2008, 08:33:43 PM »

yeah its sucks being this stock wheelbase.

NorCalToy · « **Reply #3509 on:** Mar 17, 2008, 09:11:06 PM »

thats weak no MCR, but understandable... good luck finishing the house.

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