Author Topic: 22RE wont charge (Read 8907 times)

Sparkplug · « **on:** Dec 14, 2009, 12:24:03 PM »

I just purchased ann 88 4runner. Heres the story. The guy bought it, ran fine. Was driving one day, hit the brakes with the blinker on, and boom no gauges nothing, charge light came on. He put a new alternator in it, and charge light went off, gauges still dont work. Went to test it, and it killed the battery. It wont run if the battery is disconnected. It has a new alternator, and he redid the wires, they look good. Im only familiar with the 22r with external voltage regulator. I dont know where to begin. Also dont know what happened to the gauges, its not an sr5 so its just temp and gas, but Id like to get those working also. I know this is kind of dumb, but ive had problems berfore, and the techie dudes on this site saved my ass. Just want to know where to start. Thanks

GNasty 82 · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 14, 2009, 12:30:59 PM »

I don't think this is your problem, but best to cover all bases.

I once had an issue with a new Toyota alternator. The manufacturer had painted the housing of the alternator and the paint was causing the alternator not to ground properly through it's mount. The solution was to sand off the paint on the mating surfaces of the alternator's mounting tabs. Only took me 2 weeks and about 30 trips to different autoparts stores to figure this out. What a PITA.

Anyway, that's something I've learned to always check when replacing an alternator. Just my

Sparkplug · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 14, 2009, 01:14:40 PM »

nope, its scuffed up on the surfaces, any other ideas, I traced the wires for the chraging system, and it runs to a 75 amp fuse in what i assume is the ecu. There isnt much that looks like it could be wrong.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 14, 2009, 05:43:55 PM »

bump, help please!!!

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 14, 2009, 06:09:51 PM »

With the motor running, you should be able to put a screwdriver on the center button on the back of the alt. If it's magnetized the alt is charging. If not, then it's not producing juice. Check all the grounds? Pull your harness and do a resistance check on the wires? A ohm's tester, a FSM and afternoon will tell ya if you have bad wires in the harness.

zippo · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 14, 2009, 08:51:21 PM »

G-R-O-U-N-D-S, you would be surprised it could be a ground not even close to the alt. causing the problem.

It could also be that when the old alt. went bad, it weakened the battery, when he installed the new alt, it failed to initulize the new alt causing it to go bad. Take the alt. off and have it bench tested. "Most places will do this for free".

Finally check/test all the little boxes on the driver side fender. On might have gone bad.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 14, 2009, 11:55:13 PM »

Someone on pirate mentioned the engine fuse, and I looked in my fsm, and under the gauges, the main thing it says for all the gauges is the engine fuse, so I think this may be it. How do I test this fuse to see if it is good?

zippo · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 15, 2009, 12:08:03 AM »

Pull it out and look at it. you should see a piece of bent metal."hold it up to a light" if it is broken it's blown.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 15, 2009, 11:20:39 AM »

I dont think its that simple with this fuse, it cant be simply pulled out, its actually bolted down to the panel. People said it could LOOK good, but not be. Im getting a digi ohm meter later today, and will check it for continuity

Sparkplug · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 15, 2009, 05:13:29 PM »

If anyone knows how to remove the 80A engine fuse from the panel on pas fender, it would be much appreciated. I cant figure it out, and have searched forever, my fsm doesnt even say how, just says to do it.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 15, 2009, 09:06:49 PM »

Changed the fuse. Didnt fix it. Anyone have any ideas. No gauges, warning lights, or charging. All happened at the same time. Previous owner said he put a new alt in, ran it, tail light relay got so hot it burned him. Dunno if that is relevant.

germ · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 15, 2009, 11:11:33 PM »

Sounds like a ground issue to me, but I'll admit I'm not a wiring expert. If is suddenly happened while braking and turning with the turn signal on, possibly fried something on the fuse block. As I recall, these are on seperate circuits, but something overloaded the system. Trying to remember if they have one of those fusible link things, that may have fried. That happened to me once on a Chevy, and I remember hearing that some Yota's have them, but not sure if yours does.

Common things are common, so start with the basics. check the fuses, check the grounds etc.

Good luck, and let us know what you find.

Erik

Sparkplug · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 16, 2009, 12:24:56 PM »

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 16, 2009, 09:32:02 PM »

Yes there is some fusible links.

As a matter of fact, KYOTA had this same thing happen to his rig. Marlin took it into the shop and spent an entire day tracing where the problem was. And it turned out to be a fusible link. And it all started when he wired the lights wrong.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 17, 2009, 12:00:18 PM »

got a guy lookin at it now, I told him I think its the ig1 circuit, as I tested the plug with key on, and got about 5 volts, and people on pbb said it should be around 12.

BUDDERS · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 17, 2009, 01:21:00 PM »

5 volts is what should be applied to the ecu, not any other circuit in your truck.

You might want to unbolt your fuse box and pop it apart (with the battery disconnected of course) and see if there are any burnt wires or corroded connections. Also, a relay should not get so hot it would burn you. I would be checking that circuit to see if everything looks good.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 17, 2009, 09:47:16 PM »

Yes, it was the fuse panel, new one going in tommorow. The charging issue was the bad brand new kragen alt. Id get a toyota reman, but the prev owner already got this one with lifetime warranty, and they wont give me cash back, just another piece of crap.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 18, 2009, 11:46:16 PM »

Go through about 4 or 5 kragen alts in a short period of time, get one of them to say they could give you cash back and you're golden! That's how I did it, I said if you can't give me an alternator that works WHEN I INSTALL IT, you need to give me my money back so I can go somewhere else and buy something that works. They said ok, gave me an alternator to try, installed it and the bearings were shot, sounded like the squirrels were pissed off! Got my money back, went to franklin and bought the alternator that's been in my truck for several years now.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 18, 2009, 11:54:09 PM »

Ive been through 5 "LIFETIME" starters from kragen in my 81, finally went in and set it down on the counter and walked out, today was the first day I been back there in a while

Plekto · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 19, 2009, 11:08:06 AM »

Starters and water pumps are two things I always cough up the cash for a factory rebuilt one. The reason is that if either dies on me, I'm going to be in a worse situation than saving a few dollars would have benefited me.

Or rebuild it yourself.

junya92toy · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 19, 2009, 03:39:12 PM »

Ya you should just get brushings and replace them yourself

kneedownnate · « **Reply #21 on:** Dec 19, 2009, 10:16:44 PM »

Quote from: Plekto on Dec 19, 2009, 11:08:06 AM

Or rebuild it yourself.

Starters are dirt simple to rebuild and cheap if you don't have to replace the plunger. Alternators are also super easy to rebuild as long as the bearing is still good, the hardest part for me was pulling the alt! Water pumps, I haven't priced one at kragen or autozone, but I know I paid much less than expected for mine through toyota, and I know it won't fail like my kragen crap did, costing me an engine!

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