Author Topic: Help me diagnose driveline noise (Read 15012 times)

83MT · « **Reply #30 on:** Jun 24, 2009, 02:41:37 PM »

Interesting...I wouldn't mind knowing how to do the u-joints, but that is pretty cheap.

Pinion bearing. Is that inside the rear diff? That might be what my friend was talking about. He mentioned that if it was going out, it's almost better to just replace the third, because of the cost of having someone replace the bearing. I may have both these issues going on...u-joints and bearing. It would explain the ping when I let the clutch out and the rattly noise when I drive.

wingdaddy · « **Reply #31 on:** Jun 25, 2009, 07:00:19 AM »

Yes, it is right behind the plate where the drive shaft bolts up.

83MT · « **Reply #32 on:** Jun 25, 2009, 09:07:47 AM »

Can it be accessed without pulling the third, though? If it's just right behind the pinion seal and I can replace it from the outside, I'll do that, but if I need to pull everything out, it may go to a shop, or I'll find another rear diff at a junkyard.

wingdaddy · « **Reply #33 on:** Jun 25, 2009, 09:24:19 AM »

I don't think so. You might be able to replace the seal but I don't believe you can remove the bearing.

8D3TOY · « **Reply #34 on:** Jun 25, 2009, 09:52:02 AM »

You can get some good deals on thirds on here or Craigslist, I replaced mine with a third from an 85 front, 25 years old but practically no miles on it.

83MT · « **Reply #35 on:** Jun 25, 2009, 11:16:58 AM »

Yeah I've got a guy in town I can go to. He's got 4 or 5 1st gens rotting away on his property so if I've still got some noise after I replace the u-joints I'll give him a call. I'll have to do a little search to see what they're going for. Thanks a lot!

hilux-1983 · « **Reply #36 on:** Jun 25, 2009, 05:52:44 PM »

Take some pics of what this guy has and ask him to part those things out.

83MT · « **Reply #37 on:** Jun 29, 2009, 06:59:17 AM »

I don't think he's into shipping them. Plus, this way, they're always there when I need them!

He advertises every now and then on craigslist, but mostly, if you know him, you can get parts.

83MT · « **Reply #38 on:** Jun 29, 2009, 08:38:43 AM »

FWIW-looked at my FSM over the weekend, and it calls the bearing (I think) the "front" bearing, and it is accessible from the outside. So if the u-joints don't completely take care of the noise, I'll just get a new seal and bearing. Have to wait until payday to take care of anything.

Anybody have advice on u-joints? I haven't checked Napa yet, but they are $50 at the dealership, $20 at JC Whitney. Anybody have issues with going with a Napa part here to save money, or should I get OEM quality? I like going OEM, but...money's tight. Just don't want it to bust on me because it was cheap.

Crawler677 · « **Reply #39 on:** Jun 29, 2009, 11:30:42 AM »

Quick warning, your front or (pinion bearing) is indeed accessible if you removed the pinion nut/flange/seal. but that things gonna be on there mighty tight, and getting the bearing race out might be close to impossible without dissembling the third and removing the pinion. dunno if there would be room in there for a slide hammer or not

If you ask me thirdmembers are a major PITA to work on

83MT · « **Reply #40 on:** Jun 29, 2009, 11:33:22 AM »

Ok, thanks. Might be one of those "special tool" jobs unless I want to pull the entire 3rd, huh? I'll keep that in mind.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #41 on:** Jun 29, 2009, 01:45:55 PM »

After market bearings(not made in China) should be ok. You might also call a local drive line shop and see what they will charge to rebuild and balance the drive line for you.

Check Rock Auto

83MT · « **Reply #42 on:** Jun 29, 2009, 01:59:23 PM »

Yeah, I wouldn't mind a shop doing it, if it's cheap, it just seems like u-joints are something I aught to lean how to do. The pinion bearing, on the other hand...I agree with you there. If a shop will do it for fairly cheap, that may be the way to go.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #43 on:** Jun 29, 2009, 03:37:44 PM »

Yes, u-joints are something that you can/should be able to do by yourself, I just always call around and check prices first. I have found sometimes it is cheaper or the same cost to pay a shop to do the work as it would be to buy the parts myself. Though it also depends on the shop, i.e. do they do the work because they need the money, or do they do the work because they enjoy doing it for a hobby.

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #44 on:** Jun 29, 2009, 04:28:17 PM »

your not gonna be able to replace the pinion bearing without pulling the third and tearing it down.....

83MT · « **Reply #45 on:** Jul 02, 2009, 01:56:46 PM »

Transmission shop wants $60 PLUS whatever the u-joints cost. I don't think so. $26 a piece from Napa.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #46 on:** Jul 02, 2009, 06:19:53 PM »

Since you aren't sure if it is u-joints or pinion bearing, you might want to pull the drive line and have an actual drive line shop check it out for you, or at least call and ask what they charge to inspect one. From the information you have given us, it is impossible to state for sure that the u-joints are bad. Would hate to see you drop $100+ for new u-joints and have that not solve your noise problem.

83MT · « **Reply #47 on:** Jul 06, 2009, 06:33:09 AM »

True. I can buy u-joints for $26 a piece, so I won't be spending $100 +, just $60, but still, I guess it can't hurt to make sure that's the issue first.

hilux-1983 · « **Reply #48 on:** Jul 06, 2009, 11:38:18 AM »

Forgive me for a small high jack on this issue. What is the best/easiest way of removing and installing toyota u-joints. I've tried with the u-joint press, bench press, and big ol hammer techniques. The flange always seems to flex a lot. I got tired of that mess and I had a company in San Bernardino make me a drive line(since the splines were junk too) with Chevy dana joints. If I break one of these, its a bada bing bada boom and a new one is installed. Pics would help too. By the way, I wouldn't use cheap u-joints. Factory ones are the way to go. I know $$$$ is an issue but still. Save up and put "good" ones in. Just my

83MT · « **Reply #49 on:** Jul 06, 2009, 11:45:34 AM »

Ok, I asked about that and nobody responded about getting cheap vs. factory. I can get some from JC Whitney for 20 something a piece, plus shipping. I think they're pretty pricey from the factory.

EDIT: Score. Found a guy who will check it for free if I just bring the shaft into him, and will replace both, if needed, for about $70. Much better.

Any advice for driving in front wheel drive? Just lock in the hubs and use 4hi and not go over 50?

hilux-1983 · « **Reply #50 on:** Jul 06, 2009, 12:24:47 PM »

I don't know if its recommended but, I have. No harm no fowl with me. To get this thread back on track, you were trying to find the noise that's been going on. Let's diagnose the main concern and then process what parts you will "actually" need. Then all will fall into place.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #51 on:** Jul 06, 2009, 01:06:06 PM »

Quote

EDIT: Score. Found a guy who will check it for free if I just bring the shaft into him, and will replace both, if needed, for about $70. Much better.

Any advice for driving in front wheel drive? Just lock in the hubs and use 4hi and not go over 50?

A free check is definitely worth it.

Yes just lock in the hubs and use 4hi. If you haven't ever driven it in the street w/4wd engaged, it will kind of steer funny/ and a little harder, but nothing too bad.

83MT · « **Reply #52 on:** Jul 06, 2009, 02:12:22 PM »

Ok great, thanks a lot. Another thought I just had...can't hurt to have it checked out anyways, but if I'm driving with no rear d-shaft and I'm still hearing the noise...then that's sure a great way to rule u-joints out without even having someone check them. Should have done that in the first place... BUT, if the noise is still there, does that rule out the pinion bearing, too? If the truck's moving, the rear diff will be moving, so would the pinion bearing still make noise if it's my issue? Or would it only be making noise when it's got power going to it from the d-shaft?

Hilux-1983-it would still be really helpful if someone had a little tuturial with photos on u-joint replacement. Maybe 4crawler or somebody already has one?

And yes, this is a better method than just replacing the u-joints and seeing if that takes care of the issue. I'm glad I'll be having someone check it out before I spend unnecessary $$. If it's not the u-joints...not sure. I don't want to spend the money to have someone open up the rear diff to check the pinion bearing or even buy a used 3rd and see if it helps, since that's no better than just replacing the u-joints without knowing if they're even the issue. I guess I could bring it in to a mechanic and have them diagnose it...

hilux-1983 · « **Reply #53 on:** Jul 06, 2009, 02:20:41 PM »

Wont know till you try.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #54 on:** Jul 06, 2009, 03:50:46 PM »

If you hear the noise it wont likely be the pinion, but the transmission. W/o the driveline attached, you don't have anything to carry the noise into the cab.

Have you checked to hear what the transmission sounds like? You can do it w/o the truck moving. If you fire up the truck, leave the e-brake on, put the t-case in neutral, you can run the engine and shift the gears as if you were driving the truck. This eliminates road/axle/driveline noise from the drivetrain.

83MT · « **Reply #55 on:** Jul 06, 2009, 03:52:27 PM »

Yeah, I guess if it isn't the u-joints, it may be time to have a mechanic look at it. I've done pretty good about avoiding them so far with my truck, except to contract a couple things out here and there that I either can't, or don't want, to do.

Better not be the tranny! 1 year-old L52HD. T-case on the other hand...I'll try your advice snowtoy, thanks.

83MT · « **Reply #56 on:** Jul 07, 2009, 02:07:17 PM »

Well, driving around town in front wheel drive with no rear d-shaft, I don't hear the noise. I sat with the guy while he looked at it and he thought the front joint was fine, but the rear had a binding spot. So he's replacing the rear, $30 which is only like $4 more than if I bought the part from Napa, and he was telling me most places are carrying crap joints that he won't install. He showed me in his distributers book which ones he had crossed out, because they are crap so he won't use them even though they're cheaper. That makes me feel better, too.

So, we'll see if the noise comes back when the rear shaft is reinstalled. Thanks a lot for the help so far.

$Beer Chug\'n$

83MT · « **Reply #57 on:** Jul 08, 2009, 03:36:13 PM »

New u-joint did not solve the problem. It's quieter now, but not gone. So I guess I'm looking at...pinion bearing (both t-case and rear diff?) and what else? Wouldn't be brakes or anything since I didn't hear it in front wheel drive, right?

Snowtoy · « **Reply #58 on:** Jul 08, 2009, 05:30:39 PM »

With no noise w/d-shaft out, and quieter w/new u-joints back in, I would say it has to be something in the rear axle. Could be the pinion bearing, could also be axle bearings and the noise is traveling tup the d-line and being amplified by the transmission.

Before tearing into the third, put the rear up on stands and see if you can hear the noise. Or get an automotive stethoscope and listen to the pinion as you have someone else spin the tire.

83MT · « **Reply #59 on:** Jul 09, 2009, 06:29:56 AM »

Great, thanks. Any experience on pinion or axle bearing? I know they don't always go out the same way for everyone, but if it's been making noise, is it one of those things where it's probably going to go out soon, or just make noise for a long time?

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

83MT [OP]

Related Topics