Dingman's Build Thread

[-Matt-]

Don't put that high pinion on the rear though. They do not oil correctly because of the pinion up out of the oil bath and gravity.

wait,,mike you have a HP front? if so then what jud said. i didnt realize it was high pinion

[Dingman.]

Yea its a high pinion...

If it wasn't it would have probably gone in the back from the begining

[-Matt-]

and to add to that, The convex side goes towards the load. The high pinion axle uses a reverse cut gear, and in a front diff, the convex side becomes the drive side again, and the concave side becomes the coast side.. thats why most people cant ever keep a high pinion rear in one piece.

in other words a hp front is better than average..but a hp in the rear is way worse than a regular one. as far as strength

[Dingman.]

So as far as it goes now..

The front end should supposedly be good to go.. i shouldn't have to worry about it.(knock on wood) Kc said it was setup professionally..  

I just need to get the back set up good..

[Dingman.]

k well i take back what i said about putting that in the rear, i didnt know it was a high pinion. i mean technically you could put the locker in the rear but not the diff. that has bad news all over it.

I don't really want to change the front end.. i think its a kickass setup for yota axles.

I guess the choices for the rear are: open, spool, arb.
And i need to have it setup good, lets face it.. the rear diff gets abused in this.

[Dingman.]

So ive been communicating with Kevin the last couple days, who is a representative from Yukon gears .  And this is the latest email i got.

Hi Mike,

There's not a whole lot I can do on the set purchased from your buddy but I can definitely have the set purchased from Marlin looked at. Go ahead and send the set to Randy's for their warranty guys to look at. Shipping address is:

Randy's Ring and Pinion
10411 Airport Rd
Everett, WA 98204


Write "Rga#xxxxxxxx-xxx" on the outside of the box so they know what to do when it gets there. I'll let you know what they say but I think we can get this handled.



Let me know if you have any other questions,
Thanks,

Kevin

[Dingman.]

I am pleased with the customer service on this one..

I explained how i bought the gears from marlin and they broke within the one year period but i never sent them in.  He is working with me to see about these getting warrantied, and if they are id be super happy.

Keepin my fingers crossed.

[86bobbedtoy]

sweet!!

[Dingman.]

I know.. im happy!

I just need to get my pinion bearing pressed off so i can send in the ring and pinion ASAP.

[P-DiseToy24]

Mike anything that I sold you breaks just let me know and I will have a new set of whatever it is sent to you.  I dont drive anything easy and I drive me wheelers even harder.  What I sold you has been run with 44's 42's 39.5's and 38's the only time anything broke was when I broke that long and I still think that was a freak thing. I wouldnt even think about that front end when wheeling and if I were you I would save my money on a shitty toy rear sell yours with the new gears and buy a ford 9' with 5.29's you wont ever have to worry about anything breaking even with a weld.   

[Dingman.]

Appreciate it kc..

Im going give it another go..  Im gonna find someone to help me set up my next set of gears correctly and give it a shot.

[86bobbedtoy]

all I have to say is you have bad luck with toy 529s.
Im running the oem 488s welded rear ]hopefully welding the front soon]

and im on 42s and on the first run I beat it to hell.
goose thought I was gonna break for sure more than a dozen times!

still good (for now)
Im gonna buy 2 more oem 488 diffs for spares.
hard to find but 90$ each, I can afford to break 1 every month or so.
and my 22re seems to do ok with the combo.
I am running the r151 trans, it has a lower first if I remember right.

personally since its your dd on iroks I would want a selectable locker in the rear.
#1. iroks do dispite what anyone says wear out fairly quik.
#2. dding with a locked rear sucks!

on a side note my dumb a$s is gonna weld the front and rear on my dd on 31s and ifs
possably just the front.

The 2nd gen runners are way heavy in the as$ end.
that might be the reason your having such a diff breaking good time

[IronClad]

better find a 9" with a good case then or you will still have pinion problems  with yer lead foot =P

[Dingman.]

personally since its your dd on iroks I would want a selectable locker in the rear.
#1. iroks do dispite what anyone says wear out fairly quik.
#2. dding with a locked rear sucks!

I am running 35" procomps on the street..

[86bobbedtoy]

oh well, welded is perfect then

[Dingman.]

That may as well be the case..

[-Matt-]

I know.. im happy!

I just need to get my pinion bearing pressed off so i can send in the ring and pinion ASAP.

i told you i have a bearing puller set just for that kinda of thing. your welcome to come pull it off at my house if you need to.

[Jud]

and to add to that, The convex side goes towards the load. The high pinion axle uses a reverse cut gear, and in a front diff, the convex side becomes the drive side again, and the concave side becomes the coast side.. thats why most people cant ever keep a high pinion rear in one piece.

in other words a hp front is better than average..but a hp in the rear is way worse than a regular one. as far as strength

A stock "low pinion" in the front runs off the coast side/back side of the ring gear from the factory, That is the main reason the high pinion was designed...

[-Matt-]

A stock "low pinion" in the front runs off the coast side/back side of the ring gear from the factory, That is the main reason the high pinion was designed...

ya there you go, you explained it a little easier and less complicated that what i posted.

[Dingman.]

i told you i have a bearing puller set just for that kinda of thing. your welcome to come pull it off at my house if you need to.

I wonder if it is even worth it or if i should just pony up another $150 for an install kit...

[Jud]

I wonder if it is even worth it or if i should just pony up another $150 for an install kit...

What bearing do you need?

[Dingman.]

well i have all the bearings..  just wonder if i should buy new ones again...

[Jud]

well i have all the bearings..  just wonder if i should buy new ones again...

At least a new pinion bearing

[Dingman.]

Well imma send out that R&P to randys ring and pinion, hopefully tomorrow so they can warranty it and get it back to me ASAP.

Maybe im not completely out of wheeling for the snow season.

[axled89]

is it worth the time and money to have the new ring+pinion cryo frozen or what ever it's called.  that will make it stronger right??

[Jud]

is it worth the time and money to have the new ring+pinion cryo frozen or what ever it's called.  that will make it stronger right??

Just buy lifetime warranty gears and when/if they break just go warranty them. Best fix IMO.

[Dingman.]

That is what ill probably do if i have to buy gears again.

But if im getting these replaced ill run the yukons!

[yota_krawler]

  12 bolts are !!!!! 

c-clips and very weak axle shafts

[-Matt-]

they do make c clip eliminator brackets for 10/12 axles. they run around 220$ for the full kit. but theres still other issues that people dont care for on the 12 bolt. (not saying if you have one it will go to on you but theres a chance) ive also heard the carrier bearing retainers are weak and can break making your whole carrier fall out of the housing. (but they also sell aftermarket caps for cheap). you are also able to convert them to 35 spline.

all said and done you are able to turn a 12axle into something decent. but thats a lot of money to be putting into a rear axle to make it that way...considering you can get other rear axles that are good to go that only cost 100$.

[IronClad]

12 bolts are !!!!! 

c-clips and very weak axle shafts

ever ran one or delt with one?