Topic: 22RE-T 4Runner

[Gixxer Jon]

ROLLED IT

From the looks in your pics, it looks like you dont have an ifs rear axle or wheel spacers up front. whats the backspace on those rims... they have to be 3.5 or 4.5.

Too tall and too narrow...

[CrazyYota]

 

[4LoRunner [OP]]

From the looks in your pics, it looks like you dont have an ifs rear axle or wheel spacers up front. whats the backspace on those rims... they have to be 3.5 or 4.5.

Too tall and too narrow...

ive got an 86 rear ifs axle, with 1.5" spacers upfront, not too much offset on the 15x8 rims, main thing is the 6" springs, gotta get rid of em n get some 4"

[4LoRunner [OP]]

Here we go!
The body is eff'd to be honest it gives it character. anyways frame is still straight, motor runs great, and my alignment is still perfect.









Took it out this weekend n wheeld the outta her. Kickd the windsheild off high lifted the cab n sported some spy goggles.

[Gixxer Jon]

That sucks man,    that will buff out like nothing..

Whats up with all these silver runner being rolled? no offence but there's another guy that had a silver runner just like yours and rolled it 6 hours after owning it...

[4LoRunner [OP]]

That sucks man,    that will buff out like nothing..

Whats up with all these silver runner being rolled? no offence but there's another guy that had a silver runner just like yours and rolled it 6 hours after owning it...

yea but now i dont have to worry about messin in it up haha. with some turtle wax she'll look brand new!

i dont know, that means my buddy is next he just started buildin his rig. its a curse haha.

but im happy i took it out this weekend, kickd the window out took the doors off high liftd the cab and damn doin 45 with goggles felt soo good!

[89sastoyo]

hahah sorry for that laughing but called that, caleb said it already but we did said it was to tall..

[4LoRunner [OP]]

hahah its all good buddy, yea im gonna get rid of these springs and get 4" still wanna fab up an interior cage maybe or somethin but im gonna keep on wheelin it 

[pumkin toy]

Whats up with all these silver runner being rolled? no offence but there's another guy that had a silver runner just like yours and rolled it 6 hours after owning it...

That other silver one that got rolled right away was super tall too!  Thats whats up  ha ha.  Thats also why i'm runnin all-pro main leaf with waggys that sit flat up front, and long alcan's in the rear that sit nice and low too.  I dont want to be the next silver runner to get the curse!

[NITE KRAWLERS]

Man that looks like a good roll bro! I was going to say the same thing bout the silver runner curse on this forum. Wats up wit that, all the nice looking silver ones roll. Caleb we need to paint yours so wicked fast man, and before the classic. ha ha no really dude we need to.

well i guess cut the top off and build a cage and wheel that sons a man!! HA HA nice work

[pumkin toy]

Man that looks like a good roll bro! I was going to say the same thing bout the silver runner curse on this forum. Wats up wit that, all the nice looking silver ones roll. Caleb we need to paint yours so wicked fast man, and before the classic. ha ha no really dude we need to.

I'm sittin low rider style and I'm buildin a cage right now, so its all cool dawg!

[Gixxer Jon]

I'm sittin low rider style and I'm buildin a cage right now, so its all cool dawg!

Im doing the same.. everyone has body lifts, ext. and IMO they are too tall. So im keeping mine low and squatted. I need to trim up my rear fenders a little bit this week! bc of the quarter panel and the inner fender are spot welded and the seam is then folded over. you cant just cut the fender unless you want holes into the back of the cab, so looks like im retubbing my fenders... Did you ever think about going to tractor supply and getting pre made trailer fenders or did you want to build your own?

[4LoRunner [OP]]

im gonna get the windsheild frame back into shape the get a new window n throw a cage in there. but gettin those 4" springs are a must for me. im sure i wont be rubin much with 35"s, the front i know i wont cuz the axle is pushed forward not sure bout the rear, i somewhat stuff but we'll see.

is it even worth buildin an exo or just to throw a interior cage in there?

so there is a curse haha, guys pain ur rigs if its silver, my truck was originally brown so yea i got cursed buy the girl who sold me the truck. anyone got any color suggestions?

[NorCalToy]

Since you already rolled it I wouldnt bother with th extra weight and cost of an exo. Id just go internal so your protected if it happens again.

bummer to hear you rolled it though...espicially after the tall talk...

[kneedownnate]

Holy crap, that thing sits tall 

[jtaco1]

Sorry to hear about the roll.  Lower it then cut the top off and cage it, that is what I did with mine after ending up on my roof on a hill climb.  4xInnovations cage kit came out pretty nice, although I tied it into the factory cage since I will be changing the rear of the 4 runner around in a few months and will redo the back section of the cage.

[4LoRunner [OP]]

Since you already rolled it I wouldnt bother with th extra weight and cost of an exo. Id just go internal so your protected if it happens again.

bummer to hear you rolled it though...espicially after the tall talk...

im goin with the 4x inovation interior cage or just fab a copy of it

yep time to get rid of those 6" springs n get 4" i was younger when i pickd out the lift, you know "bigger the better" nope i was completely wrong.

Sorry to hear about the roll.  Lower it then cut the top off and cage it, that is what I did with mine after ending up on my roof on a hill climb.  4xInnovations cage kit came out pretty nice, although I tied it into the factory cage since I will be changing the rear of the 4 runner around in a few months and will redo the back section of the cage.

im doing exactly what you did hahah i had he same cage in mind and everything, i still wanna keep the cab and bend it back into shape to put a windshield in so i cud still drive it round town

[jtaco1]

im goin with the 4x inovation interior cage or just fab a copy of it

im doing exactly what you did hahah i had he same cage in mind and everything, i still wanna keep the cab and bend it back into shape to put a windshield in so i cud still drive it round town

The 4xInnovations cage is nice and complete, just have a helper to put it together, I did it myself and it was a bit of a PITA holding some of the tubes to tack them.  I would have kept my cab section as well, since it sucks running some of the trails we do when it is dry and all of the dust, but my cab was pretty flat from the roll.  Looks like you should be able to bend it back for the most part.  Good luck.

[4LoRunner [OP]]

I think my uncle and are gonna fab up somethin pretty similar. he wants to go out and get i new body i say screw it and do work with this one, why spend say $200-400 on a new cab when about $200 of tubin will do work.

ive got the cab back up just gonna bang the windshield frame into place. the cab is a little pushed back but with a little more work with the highlift and a hammer i think i got it. what do u guys think of plexiglass as a windshield? might be hard to cut to the right shape and have that arc as well.

well this is what she looks like now

[jtaco1]

With the top racked back like that, I doubt a set of full doors would fit.  If you don't plan on running full doors, you are good to go.  I would say if you can get a stock windshield back in it, run that, plexi or lexan are nice, but may build up a static charge and attrach dirt and debris and could get scratched up.

Is there anyway to lower the 4 runner as well, it looks very tall in the side view picture?

[4LoRunner [OP]]

i was thinkin tubd halfdoors with the door skins. thats what i was thinkin about the plexi with static n scratches. what about havin it parkd in the sun and keepin it as a DD?

oh yea im gettin rid of those springs gettin 4" but what if i got rid of those shackles and go smaller would that work or? i think i have the 6" plates what if i got the 5" and i heard every 1" of the shackles is really only 1/2" of lift

[jtaco1]

You could easily drop the rea shackle length down and remount the hangers, looks like the rear axle could go back a little farther as well.  I run a 5" shackle in teh back, but stock springs and it seems to work well.  Up front you can also go down in shackle length, but may have to remount the hanger or install new shackle tubes.  You may be able to rebuild the leaf packs with some stocker springs to help lower it.

When I do my SAS, I plan on running a 3" shackle with RUF to keep it nice and low.  Out back I will be using filpped F-150 rear springs.

[4LoRunner [OP]]

i do want to drop it way lower. if i got 4" springs wud have to relocated the shackle tubes and the rear hanger?

[jtaco1]

Looking at the pictures above, you may have too as it looks like the shackle angle is a bit verticle and by putting a shorter spring on, i would think it would cause the shackle to stand up more.  What you could do would be keep the main leaf out of the pack you have and mix other leafs in or take some of the existing leafs out.  

I think by starting with pulling the bottom leaf or two bottom leafs would be a good start and maybe redrill your shackle to 5" hole to hole in the back and 4" hole to hole in the front.  If it sags too much, maybe add a stocker leaf or two in to pick it back up.  You may also want to look into geting your track width a bit wider to help with stability.

One of my buddies has a set of TG 5" springs front and rear and his truck was stupid tall along with his 2" body lift and 38's.  He pulled the bottom two leafs out of each pack and that helped lower it, but also made the leafs very flexy to the point he wrapped the rears up and turned them into an S since he did not have a traction bar.

Personally I think the lower the COG the better the truck handles and less chance of flopping.  I wheeled the other weekend with guys on solid axled rigs on 36-39's and they seemed way to high for the rocks, one guy actually flopped his.  Their frame measurement unde rthe door was probably in the 24-26" range.  My setup is stupid low at this point since it is still IFS, 20" to the frame, but is incredibly stable.  Had a front drivers tire 4 feet in the air last weekend with the rear of the truck in a hole while pitched over a good 40-45 degrees, but it still felt stable.

[4LoRunner [OP]]

usually those rear shackles dont sit like that its probably cuz i dont have my tools and nic nacs back there. those springs are already super soft so takin leaf packs out and puttin some stocks might help or just find someone who has 4" springs i cant remember if i have marlin fronts and all pro rears or vise versa.

if i got 4" springs what size shackles do u recommend? and how far would i have to move the shackle tubes n rear hangers?

oh yea i do think lowering COG is better, wish it was as easy as my rc crawler. i think my current frame height is 29" O_o i wanna get that to at least 20" and im stickin with 35's and cosidering gettin rims with a bigger offset. 4' in the air? wow i would of floppd for sure. maybe a 44 up front and 14 bolt in the rear is what i need haha

[jtaco1]

Shackle size and hanger placement are things that you can play with to see where you want to put the axle.  In the rear if you set the axle back a little bit by moving your front hanger back your shackle angle would get a little better, but moving the front hanger is more work than moving the rear.  Dropping the shackle size down from the 6" you have to say a 4-5" would help as well and would probably require moving the shackle hanger to get the right angle on the shackle.  To get it lower all around you could french the hangers into the frame, at that point you are re-doing everything though.

If I was starting off with your setup, I would still pull a leaf or two from the existing packs and maybe replace them with some stockers depending on how soft it would end up.  If need be install a traction bar, definately if you have a doubler.  I would also redrill the shackles 1-1.5" shorter.  Once this is done, see what your shackle angle looks like and adjust the mount to get a good angle.  That should drop you a good 3-4" maybe a bit more.  If that is still too tall, french the rear hangers into the frame and go with a flat spring hanger up front instead of the drop hanger that you have now.  If you are going for low right off the bat do the frenching and flat hanger first so you are not doing the work all over again.

[jtaco1]

I just read back through your thread, first things I would do, get rid of the block at the rear shackle along with the the tube spacer that you have between the frame and front spring hanger.  You will loose a huge amount of lift right there.  If you want to run teh hanger that far forward, extend the frame or weld the drop hanger to the front of the frame and gusset the hell out of it, which will drop you down even more.  Your front shackle tube lookes to be farther forward that normal, which is good, so when you redo the hanger in the front and change to a 3-4" front spring you will have a good shackle angle.  The rear spring hanger looks like it may be a tad forward, but getting rid of the rear shackle block and adjusting the shackle hanger accordingly should net you a decent setup.

[4LoRunner [OP]]

I just read back through your thread, first things I would do, get rid of the block at the rear shackle along with the the tube spacer that you have between the frame and front spring hanger.  You will loose a huge amount of lift right there.  If you want to run teh hanger that far forward, extend the frame or weld the drop hanger to the front of the frame and gusset the hell out of it, which will drop you down even more.  Your front shackle tube lookes to be farther forward that normal, which is good, so when you redo the hanger in the front and change to a 3-4" front spring you will have a good shackle angle.  The rear spring hanger looks like it may be a tad forward, but getting rid of the rear shackle block and adjusting the shackle hanger accordingly should net you a decent setup.

that rear block was for the sag but if i took that off and the spacer on the front hanger like you said it should be even. extending the frame sounds like and easy project. as a drop hanger im not sure what you mean exactly.

ok so take off the rear block and front hanger spacer
relocate the rear hanger
extend the frame up front with the hanger or drop hanger (need you to clarify what that looks like)
4" springs
and the shackles keep em or cut em down?

and is that it?

any btw thanks for the help!

[jtaco1]

The front drop hanger is what your springs are bolted to at the front of the frame and what you bought from Marlin, TG, or All Pro.  The way the hanger is designed is that it adds to the lift when installed under the frame, but if you install it up in the frame or up in front of the frame, which is kinda the way you have it now.  You have the frame, then a piece of square tube then the spring hanger, which is causing you to be so high.  Get rid of the piece of tube between the frame and spring hanger.  If you need to have the hanger that far forward, which I think you will since you have your shackle more forward than usual, brace the hangerto the frame well since there is a lot of leverage there.  You may even be able to slide the hanger back under the frame a little and get a better angle on the shackle.

You may not need to get new springs if you remove the blocks and shorten the shackles.  Tack the hangers in and see where it sits if still too high, then go to new springs.  No need to spend a bunch of money on new parts if you can work with what you have.

[4LoRunner [OP]]

thank you so much for your help! so goodbye rear block and front hanger spacer. waaaaait that means i gotta redo my rear bumper. its bolted to that block i believe, ill see what i can do. with the shackles how short should i make them? and do they measure from eyes to eye?