Author Topic: Engine swap, Will it fit? (Read 6567 times)

wayland · « **on:** Feb 15, 2009, 06:13:55 PM »

I have a rod through the block. 1991 Toyota pickup v6. I have found a 1995 Toyota Camry v6. The Camry engine has 20 thousands miles on a complete rebuild. My question. Will the Camry block hook up to my truck trans? Anyone every done this engine swap? Thanks.

84xcab · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 15, 2009, 08:49:58 PM »

Ask this guy

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?board=7.0

boggerunner · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 15, 2009, 10:24:10 PM »

im going with a big fat nope.

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 15, 2009, 10:45:56 PM »

Quote from: boggerunner on Feb 15, 2009, 10:24:10 PM

im going with a big fat nope.

Where do you think toyota got the 3.0 engine for the trucks from? They sure didn't design a whole other engine just for the pickup I can guarantee you that...

Swap the pan and pickup tube along with the intake and it'll go right in...

BUDDERS · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 16, 2009, 10:14:34 AM »

If you are going to go with a camry v6 block, I think the one you want is the cast iron one from '92-'93 and not anything newer cause they are all aluminum blocks. That aluminum block might bolt up, but I would want the cast iron block for strength. I have heard that Ivan used to run the v6 multi-valve heads from the '92-93 v6 camrys on the 3.0 truck block in his racing trucks back in the day, so at least the headgaskets are similar.

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 16, 2009, 12:19:49 PM »

Quote from: BUDDERS on Feb 16, 2009, 10:14:34 AM

If you are going to go with a camry v6 block, I think the one you want is the cast iron one from '92-'93 and not anything newer cause they are all aluminum blocks. That aluminum block might bolt up, but I would want the cast iron block for strength. I have heard that Ivan used to run the v6 multi-valve heads from the '92-93 v6 camrys on the 3.0 truck block in his racing trucks back in the day, so at least the headgaskets are similar.

I would think the alum block would be better as they prolly fixed the headgasket issues by that time

BUDDERS · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 06:59:29 AM »

The headgasket issue was fixed on the '98 models from the factory. I don't remember there being any vo6 campaigns on the v6 camrys though, only the trucks.

The issue with the headgasket was the little dog leg that came off the combustion chamber sealing ring. It was there for manufacturing purposes but eventually caused the coolant to leak out. Any of those headgaskets you buy from toyota now are all the updated kind.

toytank · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 07:03:56 AM »

no way

BUDDERS · « **Reply #8 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 03:22:44 PM »

Quote from: toytank on Feb 17, 2009, 07:03:56 AM

no way

...........way

THK Matt · « **Reply #9 on:** Feb 19, 2009, 11:04:57 PM »

Quote from: BUDDERS on Feb 16, 2009, 10:14:34 AM

I have heard that Ivan used to run the v6 multi-valve heads from the '92-93 v6 camrys on the 3.0 truck block in his racing trucks back in the day, so at least the headgaskets are similar.

where's more info on this?

IronClad · « **Reply #10 on:** Feb 19, 2009, 11:07:48 PM »

acutually NO it wont i already went through this. the starter is on the WRONG side for starters and theres some other differences.

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #11 on:** Feb 25, 2009, 04:03:07 PM »

really??? I cant see why they would have made 2 versions of the same motor but hell I dont know!

Snowtoy · « **Reply #12 on:** Feb 25, 2009, 04:52:47 PM »

Seeing how the Camry is a front wheel drive set-up, I would think that would preclude the two blocks from being interchangeable, though I could be wrong.

While the blocks are similar the heads are diff. The Camry V6 is a twin cam, and truck is single cam. There has been attempt to bolt up the Camry heads to the 3.0 block, but I haven't come across a completed one yet.

The HG issue is pretty much a thing of the past, providing you use new TTY head bolts, studs, or non-TTY head bolts.

THK Matt · « **Reply #13 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 11:52:32 AM »

Quote from: Snowtoy on Feb 25, 2009, 04:52:47 PM

Seeing how the Camry is a front wheel drive set-up, I would think that would preclude the two blocks from being interchangeable, though I could be wrong.

While the blocks are similar the heads are diff. The Camry V6 is a twin cam, and truck is single cam. There has been attempt to bolt up the Camry heads to the 3.0 block, but I haven't come across a completed one yet.

The HG issue is pretty much a thing of the past, providing you use new TTY head bolts, studs, or non-TTY head bolts.

I know of two

Snowtoy · « **Reply #14 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 02:39:55 PM »

2 what, Camry V6's in Trucks, head swaps, or HG failures?

Reoccurring HG failures are usually the fault of the mech work, poor head resurfacing, or cheap and re-using oem head bolts.

If you mean Camry swaps that would be interesting. I know there was a member on Yotatech(IIRC) that was looking for funding to help with the Camry twin cam heads on a3.0, but I haven't followed the progress.

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #15 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 03:05:18 PM »

funny how the HG failures are mech related even though it only happens to the $That\'s Gay$ 3.slow motors?

? no from the factory the motors had HG issues and thats why 90% of them you see on the road have had the motor opened up in the first place......

Snowtoy · « **Reply #16 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 03:26:57 PM »

I said reoccurring HG failures, not the original issue of HG failure cause from Toyota having to use a non-asbestos head gaskets. The 7m's are also prone to HG failure due to the same reason, and is usually resolved by using a greater torque value on the head bolts. I am not sure if the 3.0's issue could have been resolved this way or not, or if the V6 Camry's from the same era had an hg issue as well.

One of the main issues that lead to reoccurring BHG on the 3.0's(other than poor maintenance) was from reusing the oem head bolts. It is rather amazing how many qualified mechanics out there don't/didn't know that you can't re-use torque-to-yield(TTY) head bolts, or that the 3.0 uses them.

If you use a the properly redesigned HG, new TTY/studs/stand bolts, and have good surfaces(heads/block), you shouldn't have an issue w/the HG's on the 3.0, under normal operating circumstances. A lot of people are cheap when it comes to mech work, often trying to cut costs by not having the head checked/machined, or not wanting to spend $8/TTY oem head bolt.

THK Matt · « **Reply #17 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 03:55:33 PM »

I am saying camry heads on the truck 3.0s =]

Snowtoy · « **Reply #18 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 04:09:18 PM »

Any links, write-ups, power gains. Like I said I know it was being attempted but hadn't seen a completed one yet.

One of the main restrictions to power was the design of the head, there is very little material you can remove to run O/S valves. From what I have come across from research and actually modifying the 3.0, is it seems that Toyota purposely restricted the power output of the 3.0. It would be a nice mod/upgrade to Camry heads, providing the costs are reasonable.

THK Matt · « **Reply #19 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 04:13:02 PM »

I am PRETTY sure "Goose" on this thread did this head swap and so did Ivan Stewart.

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #20 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 04:42:06 PM »

I cant understand why anyone would waste any time or money on one of those POS motors when its sooooo easy to just put a 3.4l in there and they are soooooooooo much better of a motor anyways..... I wouldnt waste $100 to fix a 3.0l period.... just my

Snowtoy · « **Reply #21 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 05:30:11 PM »

The 3.0 is/can be a good motor, just expensive to build. I have owned my '90 for 19yrs, and it have modified over time, so overall costs are of little consequence. Over the years the cyls have been bore .040 over, headers/exhaust work, ignition, and I turned the K&N FIPK into a true cold air intake. My 3.0 will run circles around my 22re all day, and it weighs an easy 1000lbs more.

Even w/the work that has been done, I still haven't spent the amount a 3.4 swap would have cost me. Besides at the time most of the work was done, the 3.4 didn't exist, and I wasn't about to drop a domestic engine into it. When I rebuilt the upper end in '04 and installed the headers, the wiring conversion harness from ORS alone cost about $700 more than the rebuild/headers did.

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #22 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 05:40:41 PM »

there is no reason to buy a harness from ors.... there is only 4 or so wires to hook up under the passenger kick panel and the wiring is done.... the motor bolts rite in and you just use the 3.0 oil pan/pickup etc. very very easy swap and a 3.4 will smoke any 3.0 I dont care how built it is..... you can get a low mile 3.4 for under $800......

THK Matt · « **Reply #23 on:** Feb 27, 2009, 12:58:25 PM »

Quote from: TIMS89CRAWLER on Feb 26, 2009, 05:40:41 PM

there is no reason to buy a harness from ors.... there is only 4 or so wires to hook up under the passenger kick panel and the wiring is done.... the motor bolts rite in and you just use the 3.0 oil pan/pickup etc. very very easy swap and a 3.4 will smoke any 3.0 I dont care how built it is..... you can get a low mile 3.4 for under $800......

REALLY NOW..... thats using the 3.4L Harness? manual or auto harness?
cause If I can find a blown 4runner and a wrecked taco or something with a good 3.4L... there we go

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #24 on:** Feb 27, 2009, 01:05:48 PM »

yes its very easy to wire up.... you just need the ecu plugs from the 3.4 harness and the plug that goes from the engine to dash harness on the 3.4l either maunal or auto does not matter then you tie about 4 wires from the 3.4 harness directly into the 3.slow harness under the passenger kick panel..... very easy to do.... I will do a write up on it sometime soon when I get a few extra minutes..... all there is to wire is the start sense, EFI relay, a 12v. ign wire that powers all the sensors and injectors, ECU power and if I remember right thats about it.... I will have to grab my schematics from my buddies house and I can tell ya all the colors and locations of the wires....even the gauges wires tie in under the pass kick panel..... if you can read and use wire crimpers its pretty damn easy.... I can wire one of those motors way faster than a 20/22r motor.....

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #25 on:** Feb 27, 2009, 01:06:52 PM »

then you use the 3.0 motor mounts on the 3.4 block as well as the 3.0 oil pan and pickup and it all bolts right in.... you do have to modify the hood though unless your using a $That\'s Gay$ bodylift....

THK Matt · « **Reply #26 on:** Feb 27, 2009, 01:12:18 PM »

AWESOME! cause im keeping my eye out for a nice clean 4runner that has a motor going out (3.0) and for a 3.4L if I can find that for the price of a nice running v6 2nd gen.. ill do that instead

a write up would be awesome!
I plan to havea vehicle or vehicle/engine by April.
SO get on it son

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #27 on:** Feb 27, 2009, 01:24:12 PM »

I will I just need to get my papers so I know the colors and all that

!

THK Matt · « **Reply #28 on:** Feb 27, 2009, 01:26:01 PM »

sick, you're the bomb Tim.

so when clearancing the hood.... you just cut that "webbing" out on the underside correct? where the intake will "hit"

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #29 on:** Feb 27, 2009, 02:11:13 PM »

yep just a couple of the peices.... really easy and it doesnt take away much of the hood stability either.... much easier and cooler than the body lift!

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