Author Topic: gearing question,how weak are the 4.88's (Read 3523 times)

bhigdon101 · « **on:** Jan 05, 2009, 01:55:53 PM »

i plan to run 39.5 tsl's and want to keep the 4.11 gears front and rear for the strength..
i heard the lower gears break easier ... i will be running duel cases..

question is how would you gear the cases

front case stock, second case 4.7
front case 4.7, second case stock
front case 4.7, second case 4.7

or any other info would help...
before i buy something i cant use or want....

thanks brian higdon..

thanks for the replys.... im going to edit this so i dont have to start a new post..

so the question is now how much difference in the 4.11 and the 4.88 in strength..

is the 4.88's going to break that much easier than the 4.11's..
im looking at the factory v6 4.88's now....

so keep the info coming...
brian higdon.,....

RCKSQRL · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 05, 2009, 02:12:59 PM »

stock gearing in front case and 4.7 in the rear.

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 05, 2009, 04:43:17 PM »

I wouldn't stay with 4.11s. I have 4.88's and have never broke them, and I do try. Spooled in both axles, and 200 HP.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 05, 2009, 08:16:44 PM »

If you're going to drive it on the street at all you should change the differential gears. I believe that the significant strength difference is from 4.88s to 5.29s. I don't think you'll have to worry with 4.88s and many people are successful with 5.29s.

They don't call it a dual ultimate for nothing!

RCKSQRL · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 09:06:14 AM »

I am running 5.29's with no issues for well...... 9 years now in 2 seperate rigs

Snowtoy · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 08, 2009, 01:17:59 AM »

You are going to want to change out the gears to have any useable power on the trail or the street.

The 22r(e) isn't going to put out enough unexpected torque to break a ring gear, something else should let go first. I have only seen one 5.29 break, it was in a front diff under a hard reverse, and was caused by driver error.

diggo · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 08, 2009, 02:11:36 PM »

I broke a set of 4.88 with 33's and 4.7 t-case gears. Although I don't think that the 4.88 was the prob. The 4.10's will suck in the road. 4.88's or 5.29's would make the road driving manageable. It all depends on where you plan to drive and what you want as a week link. I would be much more worried about my birf's than my r&p.

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 08, 2009, 06:09:13 PM »

Go with a 2.28/4.7 case setup with 5.29 r/p, and you won't have any problems.

diggo · « **Reply #8 on:** Jan 08, 2009, 11:10:14 PM »

that is what I >am using now minus the 4.7

newbe94 · « **Reply #9 on:** Jan 09, 2009, 04:56:38 AM »

noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

4.11 is not good i have 38s with duals with the 4.11 change it unless you want to drive with the both trans gears on only go 35mph on 5th go 5.29 an be done with with it

dirtchicken · « **Reply #10 on:** Jan 10, 2009, 12:15:29 AM »

You don't want stock gearing with duals. You WILL bust output shafts.

boggerunner · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 10, 2009, 09:20:24 AM »

wow everyone is against this, i run stock 4.37 diff gears lincoln locked with 2.28/4.7 on 37's and i wouldnt have it any other way. with the money u will save on gears/ install kits and install, makes the output shaft is look pretty cheap too. i wouldnt touch 5.29's
that being said i do alot of 3rd gear launches up waterfalls!
so im not nice to them at all

i do run 4.88's in my 4runner, but its my daily driver on 36's with stock duals. and id doesnt see the rocks at all.

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 10, 2009, 07:09:45 PM »

Last year I had to re-gear my truck because I trashed a set of 4:10's on 33's, and also, to go with larger tires and get some of the power back from oversize tires. I followed ZUK's install instructions, and have had no problems out of the 5.29's I put in. The lifetime of ANY set of gears is directly related to the amount of attention to detail paid by the installer. If they are set up CORRECTLY, they will give a long service life. If they are not, they will fail MUCH sooner.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 11, 2009, 07:08:05 PM »

You shouldn't have any issues running oem 4.88's. I have had a set of after market 4.88's in my '90 w/a mod'd V-6 for 12yrs now, and haven't had any strength issues. I run an ARB locker and the truck weighs a good 1000lbs over stock. When on the trail loaded with gear and passengers it is right at or above 5200lbs.

You do understand that w/the oem 4.87 diff you can't upgrade to larger gears in the future, so you should keep your 4.10 diff, if you go w/the oem 4.87 diff.

If you drive this rig on the street at all you are still going to wish you went w/5.29's.

Running 39.5's is a 41% increase in tire size over stock 28's, which results in about a 41% loss in power, or 41 ponies from the rwhp of a 22r. This is why re-gearing is such a benefit, for either the trail or the street, not to mention extending the life expectancy of your clutch. Your final crawl ratio should also be effected by the the % of difference in tire size.

cale_90 · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 01:26:23 PM »

This might be a newbie question but, why can't you upgrade to larger tires with the OEM 4.87's?

MiniSimp · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 01:27:53 PM »

Quote from: cale_90 on Jan 12, 2009, 01:26:23 PM

This might be a newbie question but, why can't you upgrade to larger tires with the OEM 4.87's?

You can, but you will lose power. Think of it as putting a windmill blade on a pocket fan.

THK Matt · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 01:37:12 PM »

Quote from: cale_90 on Jan 12, 2009, 01:26:23 PM

This might be a newbie question but, why can't you upgrade to larger tires with the OEM 4.87's?

he said larger gears... not tires

MiniSimp · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 01:42:08 PM »

Quote from: 85HOrunner on Jan 12, 2009, 01:37:12 PM

he said larger gears... not tires

Wierd, looked like tires to me.

THK Matt · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 01:47:53 PM »

Quote from: MiniSimp on Jan 12, 2009, 01:42:08 PM

Wierd, looked like tires to me.

Doesn't look like that to me.

Quote from: Snowtoy on Jan 11, 2009, 07:08:05 PM

You do understand that w/the oem 4.87 diff you can't upgrade to larger gears in the future, so you should keep your 4.10 diff, if you go w/the oem 4.87 diff.

MiniSimp · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 01:52:58 PM »

Quote from: cale_90 on Jan 12, 2009, 01:26:23 PM

This might be a newbie question but, why can't you upgrade to larger tires with the OEM 4.87's?

I was talking about this post.

THK Matt · « **Reply #20 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 01:55:04 PM »

Quote from: MiniSimp on Jan 12, 2009, 01:52:58 PM

I was talking about this post.

I know and I wasn't lol

but yeah I can't remember the reason you can't upgrade the gears in an oem 4.87 diff.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #21 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 07:41:00 PM »

Quote from: cale_90 on Jan 12, 2009, 01:26:23 PM

This might be a newbie question but, why can't you upgrade to larger tires with the OEM 4.87's?

The oem 4.87's were used to run 31's and an auto trans. Running larger tires will have the same net loss of performance on the oem 4.87's and auto trans., just as they would on any other oem tire/gear combo,

The 4.87 diff housing is different for some reason, and is why you can't run taller gears. I think all 8" ring gears are the same diameter, so it must be a width issue.

boggerunner · « **Reply #22 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 08:29:02 PM »

the oem 4.88 ring gear is thicker, so the carrier is different, but if u switch to a full locker or spool, u can put any gearset into the housing.

Related Topics