[Project Reeda]yup. engines out

[NorCalToy]

alright, its only stage one right now


disregard the metal on the ground.


and dont say it looks like a wheelie bar please, and yes, the orange metal used to be an engine stand. any other Q's, shoot em.

[KDXSR5]

Did you rape an engine hoist for those parts? I am sure it will work fine, it will probably be a little wobbly because there is like no lateral support for it. As long as you are not carrying a super huge tire you should be fine.

im jk todd, i doubt my own fab skills.

[NorCalToy]

i raped an engine stand yea...it was brought home from the dump, by me, so i could make something out of the tubing.at somepoint im going to add a lateral brace, my original design was really fugly, im gonna have to experiment and find a design i like, but it definitely should hold.

[KDXSR5]

The only reason why I say it is going to be wobbly is becuase it is only going into a trailer hitch. It really needs more that one mounting point to be not wobbly. I have seen some stuff before that would work. I saw this guy build a carrier once kind of like yours, and he welded D rings onto his hitch mount. He then ran steel cables from the top of the carrier to the D mounts. Does that make sense, or do I need to edit your pic?

[NorCalToy]

yea, go ahead and edit the pic.. wait, i think i get it, but yea please edit


so you mean stabilize with cables?

[KDXSR5]

Ok. The Green are small D rings welded to the ends of your hitch mount (they will be a lot smaller, I just can't draw that small). The blue is a cable. The red is a tensioner. The tensioners would be hidden behind the spare tire mount, which could make them hard to get to. Maybe it would be better to put them down at the bottom. But this should give you a general idea of what I was describing. Since it is mounted on D rings,  it should let the cables swing down with the tire and stabalize it throughout all of it's motions. Make sense?

[KDXSR5]

After looking at your design, my idea will not work. The mount is not the same distance away from the pivot point throughout it's 90 degrees of movement. That means the cables would bind. Sorry my idea will not work.

[NorCalToy]

After looking at your design, my idea will not work. The mount is not the same distance away from the pivot point throughout it's 90 degrees of movement. That means the cables would bind. Sorry my idea will not work.

thats kinda what i was thinin, but some heavy duty bungee cords will    

[KDXSR5]

Some REALLY heavy duty ones, haha. Yeah, the bungees will help dampen the wobbliness of the hitch mount.

[NorCalToy]

oh yea, real hefty suckers, but well see how annoying it is when its done, i may not even run it, ill have a total of like $10 into it after grinding wheels and wire for the welder.

[BLACKDOG]

That rear coil lift and cranking the front t-bars will give you some added height to run larger tires. Ask rocksurfer or maybe jimbo (I know, I know) about how to make IFS work off road. Especially rocksurfer.

Ahem!   

After looking at your design, my idea will not work. The mount is not the same distance away from the pivot point throughout it's 90 degrees of movement. That means the cables would bind. Sorry my idea will not work.

Still not a bad idea.  You could put some clips on one end of the cable, so that when it is in the upright position, you can clip it in, so it isn't wobbly, and then when you want to lower it, you just unclip the cables, and then lower the arm.  Biggest thing I don't like about those kinda mounts, is it makes a great ankle/knee buster when its down.  Whether you're digging in the back, hanging out on the tailgate, or just working around the truck.

I'd look around and see if I could find a factory swing out tire carrier for it, at the junkyard or something   they're decently stout, and can hold up to a 35" tire, just need to extend the mounting studs a bit.

[NorCalToy]

Ahem!  




Still not a bad idea.  You could put some clips on one end of the cable, so that when it is in the upright position, you can clip it in, so it isn't wobbly, and then when you want to lower it, you just unclip the cables, and then lower the arm.  Biggest thing I don't like about those kinda mounts, is it makes a great ankle/knee buster when its down.  Whether you're digging in the back, hanging out on the tailgate, or just working around the truck.

I'd look around and see if I could find a factory swing out tire carrier for it, at the junkyard or something   they're decently stout, and can hold up to a 35" tire, just need to extend the mounting studs a bit.

i wrote BD first then realized he wrote RS, i was THINKIN Gof you though!

and yea, tah or a mount off of a kia sportage, same kinda mount...

[BLACKDOG]

i wrote BD first then realized he wrote RS, i was THINKIN Gof you though!

and yea, tah or a mount off of a kia sportage, same kinda mount...

  I had a buddy that had the factory mount, I was actually pretty impressed with it   even one off an s10 blazer, or a bronco II, or a jimmy, or anything like that should work as well, with very little effort to make it fit.  I know you can find those in junkyards, toys are a little harder to find.


You get those compression #s?  try the test with oil?

[NorCalToy]

no, i couldnt move it today because of my dads rules... and my tester got broken. i gotta buy a new one

[BLACKDOG]

I KNEW I was forgetting someone! Sorry BD.

 

No big deal, I'm just messing around.

[NorCalToy]

so BD, any tips on makin the IFS more trailable?

[BLACKDOG]

so BD, any tips on makin the IFS more trailable?

cut it all off


Its pretty good the way it is.  If you're going to have it around for a while, I'd look into buying/making a good skidplate for the front, to protect your steering components.  That stuff is kinda weak.  My skid plate has saved that stuff a lot.  Don't over crank your torsion bars. They can and will break, and when you don't expect it.  A couple of turns is good, but the more you crank them, the less flex you'll get, and the rougher the ride.  With either a lift of stock, brace the bottom of the IFS "cage,"  I've seen several rigs start to bend there, because the factory bracing isn't all that good.  Other than that, just think smart.  Don't go full crank against rocks, etc. and you'll be fine.

[NorCalToy]

ok, cool, what do you mean about bracing the fornt end though? gotta pic to illustrate?

[BLACKDOG]

ok, cool, what do you mean about bracing the fornt end though? gotta pic to illustrate?

Best pic I have


I'm talking mostly about that bar right where the front dshaft bolts to the pumpkin.  It is made of channel, and if you drop it on a rock a few times, it bends. 

[NorCalToy]

ok so inside the green circle?

and are those the stock A-arms?

[NorCalToy]

also, im getting an engine this weekend.

yes, i fully realize that i may not need one, but its either get this and possibly not need or comes down to needing an engine and paying like $2500 around my place to get one. so im just gonna get it, and then ill have a backup (it is the V6, so i dont think its a bad idea... )

[THK Matt]

what HELL are those two bars connecting to the bottom of both A-Arms?! 

[JanMarie13]

what HELL are those two bars connecting to the bottom of both A-Arms?! 

  nice pic name A-hole   

[THK Matt]

haha i love how you were the first to notice and address that i purposely did it to see who would say something.

[NorCalToy]

pretty sure those are on everything, or its a traction bar becausee of his 4" lift...

[THK Matt]

pretty sure those are on everything, or its a traction bar becausee of his 4" lift...

they are not on my 87.

[NorCalToy]

eventually ill go look at reeda.

[BLACKDOG]

haha i love how you were the first to notice and address that i purposely did it to see who would say something.

pretty sure those are on everything, or its a traction bar becausee of his 4" lift...

Traction bars that came with the lift.  Done some clearancing to them, rock style

ok so inside the green circle?

and are those the stock A-arms?

Yes and yes

[NorCalToy]

ok, so what do you recommend reinforcing it with then?

[BLACKDOG]

ok, so what do you recommend reinforcing it with then?

you can weld some flat bar to it, or some channel.  just to add to the thickness, because that is pretty thing metal there.  I had a buddy weld 1/4" x2x6 piece of flatbar in his, worked real well.