BigMike's Big Project

[dropzone]

chrysler lebaron I think 85-86

Hmmmm not really many good interior pics. Did some dash work here, removed carpet here, hmmmm......

Originally discussed here and here, installed here.

Regards,
BigMike

Thanks guys 

[Rocksurfer]

Definition:

1. Square Boob
    A geeky slacker
    Taylor is a square boob

[Nation]

 

[Nation]

Saturday,

This weekend I am trying to completely finish up my engine conversion so I can start on the interior, so here's what left on my check list as of this morning:
[list

• Install a speed sensor and wire it directly to the ecu

And after today I can cross off the first 3 items as they are in the bag.

You asked for it!

So, what did you end up doing to get rid of the vss?

[BigMike]

From the next page

Oh, I found something out which might just be the biggest life saver of this entire conversion: The '81 instrument cluster has it's own speed sensor for the on-board emissions control computer, Toyota's early version efi, or as Marlin likes to call it, a poor-mans EFI. I haven't checked to see if the output is in AC (which is required for the 3RZ) but if it is and it works, MAN that'll save me about a million headaches.

All 1979-1995 Hilux trucks and Hilux 4Runners with mechanical speedometer cables come with a built-in-instrumentation-cluster electronic Speed Sensor from the factory. Check your wiring diagram: there will be a VSS+ and VSS- coming out from your factory dash. It's been a long time but I recall they are florescent colored wires, like light blue for one and light green for the other.

Once you wire them into the 3RZ ECU, double check it's working by reading the speed from your OBD-II scanner.

Regards,
BigMike

[Nation]

Seens that. Looks like I'll have to do a write up on this 

[ojm388]

I know this is an old thread but mad props to BigMike for putting this on here!  It has inspired me to go ahead with my own 3rz in my 84 pickup!  I was about to drop almost 3 grand into ANOTHER 22r build but found this thread and changed my mind entirely.  Looks like ill be picking up a local 95 100 real soon.

[onemanarmy]

Read through it all.  Thanks for taking the time to put so much knowledge out there.

I do have a question.....are the 2rz and 3rz air filter boxes and intake tubes the same?

Thanks

[Erick561]

I love my dad's 3RZ and would like to do this in the future to my 1st gen.  Nice job dude

[BigMike]

Thanks for the comments guys Earlier this summer I celebrated my 10 year anniversary of my truck and it's 3RZ-FE Love the power for a 4cyl, love the 20-21 MPG @ 65-70 MPH highway economy from 37" tires & 5.29:1 R&P, I've put on close to 60,000 miles, drive it to and from every trail, have done hardly any maintenance, never been trailered, accelerates well and is a pleasure to daily drive with or without traffic, fires up every time and has never left me stranded Looking forward to many more years of wheel'n!

ojm388, thanks for registering & posting up and sounds like you're gonna love it! Good choice on the early distributor type 3RZ-FE: Less wiring and less emissions stuff = easier to swap and much easier to pass smog inspection (if applicable to you). I helped swap a newer type (quad-coil) 3RZ-FE into a 1985 carb'd shortbed Hilux truck and that thing runs amazingly well also. More info on that one here: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=13826

onemanarmy, thanks for the comment. I am not sure about your question. I don't have much experience with the 2RZ-FE. I'd assume the piping is the same but I'd question if the air flow meter is the same. You certainly don't want to get those crossed up-

Erick561, don't hesitate on the chance, just DO EEEEET!

From Dusy one month ago:













Regards,
BigMike

[4.3 headache]

Is that Edison dry lake in the last pic ?   

[ojm388]

Damn BigMike truck still looks good!!  Im jealous of that MPG!!! Im going the 5.29 36" tire route so hopefully it will be similar.  I sent you a PM a while back i know you've probably got a million of them.  Just wanted to pick your brain on the subject.


Im swapping a 95 t100 3rz with 5 spd ecu into an 84 carbed pickup.  my original wiring harness is for the carbed version so it has no efi anything.  Couldnt I just go ahead and disconnect the original relay and  hot wire to the starter and leave the original system to power my lights, blinkers, a/c and stuff?  Then go ahead and install the 3rz harness and ecu's, fuse boxes and relays with its own hot wire off the battery, as well as a new hot wire for the starter...then just hot wire the ignition wire into my current harness?

This way essentially when i turn they key to on, the ingnition wire will allow power to both ecu's...

The old : powering the lights, a/c blower, blinkers, brakes, fuses, all my old guages (i want to run the  original 84 cluster)

The new: Powering the 3rz ecu, fuses, relays and fuel pump n stuff

ill let the ODBII system chill under the glove box and check it for codes.  i know i should use the cluster for the donor, i will providing it fits right.

anyways thanks any help is much appreciated!!!

[SqWADoosh]

Mike your truck is an inspiration to us all. I just wanted to thank you for all the 3RZ knowledge you have put out there for everyone to share in. Its because I see you as the expert on the swap that I come to you wondering if you can give me some insight. I am having a hot soaking issue with my swap into my 85 4Runner. The truck starts up wonderfully and idles perfectly on cold start. Its when I turn the truck off and then back on after its warmed up that I get a rough low idle until I drive the truck at speed at which point the idle will come back down to normal. I believe the issue is caused by my small stock radiator. I'm wondering what you recommend to cool these swaps? Thanks!

[BigMike]

Just performed my 7th smog inspection. Twelve years 61,331 miles later my baby is still going strong!

[BigMike]

Various pics from last year

[mudmaster]

Just performed my 7th smog inspection. 61,331 miles later my baby is still going strong!

No smog in WA for that year!

[BigMike]

Here come some late replies:

Is that Edison dry lake in the last pic ?   

Hey Tommy! Yessir, pretty sad I know...

Couldnt I just go ahead and disconnect the original relay and  hot wire to the starter and leave the original system to power my lights, blinkers, a/c and stuff?

Yessir, this is how I do the wiring. Chassis harness remains intact to original circuits such as power mirrors, wipers, power antenna, fuel gauge, volt meter, windshield sprayer, horn, all lights, power door locks, etc. The only part of the 3RZ-FE donor vehicle's harness other than the engine harness, would be O2 wiring harness (two sensors) and if you're not EFI then fuel pump harness. The rest is done yourself: Alternator to the battery, integrate both ignition systems into one while keeping your original Hilux ignition cylinder and pigtail harness, and any gauges you'd like to connect such as oil pressure, engine temperature, RPM (these are all optional).

A few years after we did these we have that both the 3RZ-FE engine fuse box and driver's side interior fuse box may be entirely replaced with just a couple separate relays (opening circuit, clutch start cancel, etc). It was Marlin who figured this out over here and last year he removed my interior fuse box for me while my truck was in for some regular maintenance. I've still got my engine bay fuse box but Marlin eliminated his all together.

I am having a hot soaking issue with my swap into my 85 4Runner. The truck starts up wonderfully and idles perfectly on cold start. Its when I turn the truck off and then back on after its warmed up that I get a rough low idle until I drive the truck at speed at which point the idle will come back down to normal. I believe the issue is caused by my small stock radiator. I'm wondering what you recommend to cool these swaps? Thanks!

I doubt it is due to a low capacity cooling system. Even if an engine is overheating it should still idle normally.....up to a certain point of course. I've buried needles in the red on a few Toyota EFI engines and they just purr, idle seemingly happy.

What I would first look into is your Air Control Valve (ACV).

Random GImage search:




The ACV is a barrel throttle that bypasses the main throttle. It is controlled by an electromagnet solenoid, whereby the ECU varies resistance to increase or decrease a magnetic field (via inductance) which changes the position of the barrel throttle in relation to a magnet fixed to one end of its shaft. Because there is no physical connection between controller and throttle, a tight clearance is needed to maximize magnetic field strength. Any debris that gets in the way of either the magnets (located in a sealed compartment with the ACV) or the barrel throttle (located in the intake air stream) will cause the throttle to stick regardless of what the ECU is asking it to do.

In the case of temperature, if the barrel throttle has carbon or oil build-up (excessive cylinder blow-by) or dirt on it (because you use an open element air filter that is rarely cleaned/replaced), then any change in throttle-to-housing clearance through natural material expansion will result in contact (seizure) that the magnetic force is unable to overcome. A quick whack of the main throttle would result in a sudden and large change of resistance at the ACV while simultaneously greatly changing the air pressures on both sides of the barrel throttle. This combination almost always allows the throttle to free itself and rotate as needed by the ECU.

First I'd take the ACV off. Two phillips screws. Make sure it and the magnet are nice and clean. It would be nice to find dirt in there because this is the simplest fix. Otherwise, you'll have to remove the barrel throttle assembly which will require cracking open your coolant system. Clean out all the carbon and/or dirty oil residue and put it back together.



Regards,
BigMike

[BigMike]

No smog in WA for that year!

We used to have a rolling 25-year smog exemption here that was done away with I believe in 2000. Therefore any car 1975 or older is smog exempt. If this law was reinstated than both my truck and my MR2 would be smog exempt......................

Forgot to add that the smog paper reports a displacement of 2.4-liters. That is a baby's toy.

Regards,
BigMike

[ChadStich]

Just finished my 3rz swap a few weeks ago! No smog where I'm at in Oregon either so its got the egr, cat, and anything to do with emissions deleted!

Wish I could get down to Moab sometime the wheelin there looks like a blast!

[BigMike]

its got the egr, cat, and anything to do with emissions deleted!

Do you not have the CEL connected?

[ChadStich]

Do you not have the CEL connected?

Since I've owned the truck it hasn't had a bulb in there. With the automatic ecu it always throughs a shift solenoid code so the light would be on all the time if I had it haha! It runs great though with all the emissions deleted and the balance shafts removed. Does way better on gas than the re did and has way more power. Couldn't be happier with the swap.  I think I have a picture of the swap on by build thread if you want to check it out. I need to update it though since I've got it running.

[epantano]

Hey Bike Mike,

I know this thread is pretty old, but I've been reading through a ton of it. Great info here.

My 3rz is in garage ready for transplant.

I have a 87 P/U with a 22r, Since its carb does it have the G54 or W56? Can I tell from the Tranny? I have the bell housing from the W59F, ready to go on, but now i'm unsure of which trans I have / Need.

I am also looking back for the wiring notes did i miss that somewhere?

Thanks!

[epantano]

So if you want to go Passengers side drive line, which is what I did, here's what you would do:

• 3RZ > W59 Tacoma Bellhousing > W56 transmission > Gear Drive Toy tcase

Some notes:

• 1989-1995 W56 uses a forward shift style tcase just like your G54, so your shifters will nearly be in the same spot. The rods on the tcase are slightly shorter however, so you cant just simply bolt your G54 transfercase directly up to the late model W56. You would have to change the shift rods to the 89-95 shift rods in the transfercase.

Hey Big Mike,

Can I go 3RZ > W59 Tacoma Bellhousing > G54 transmission > Gear Drive Toy tcase from G54? I believe this is what my truck has and want to make sure before i remove its heart.

Thanks

[redneckcustoms13]

Yes w59 bell and clutch fork will bolt to a g series trans.

[epantano]

Thanks i was hoping that i could do that and not worry about changing out to the W56 Tranny.

[bigwill837]

Dare I say it? I like this truck more than your Tacoma!

[arlindsay1992]

Nothing wrong with that. Old Pickups are cooler than any Taco any day of the week.