Topic: newb w/ solid axle questions

[atoyot]

i have an 85 solid axle and i basically took it apart and i m not sure what this part is called that im trying to seperate from the disc. its where the manual hub attaches to. i already took those 2 bolts off behind the disc and hit in between the studs with a hammer and still no luck seperating them. do i even need these two parts if i get the sas from marlin? because im pretty sure marlin has new discs in the kit. but im not sure about that  part that sits on top of the disc.
another thing that im having trouble with is getting the inner wheel bearing out. i think if i get the disc from that part where the manual hub attaches to seperated, it would be able to come out.
can someone please tell me what that part is attached to the disc called
and how can i tell if my wheel bearings should be replaced?
any help for this newb would be greatly appreciated

[OOPS]

Here is a link for the FSM (factory service manual) for the front axle on an 85. Click on it and read and learn the names of things;

http://www.lukemiller.org/toys/1985_toyota_4wd_front_axle_FSM.pdf

Download a copy to disc, you never know when it might go away!!!!!!!

[79coyotefrg]

well if  you have a  85  then you already have a solid front axle, SAS= Solid Axle Swap

what  it sounds like your talking about is getting the brake rotor off the wheel hub (where the wheel lugs hold the wheel to the axle)

you dont need to remove that to get the  inner bearing out,   

the  seal  is  all that keeps the bearing in there when its not on the truck

look at the outer bearing that  fell out on the ground when you took the  big nuts off the spindle,  if  it doesnt look like its  about to fall to pieces  then  most likely  your inner bearing is fine too


if  your rebuilding the  axle  you just need Marlins Knuckle rebuild Kit

[highridin4x4]

I think he is preping his axle for the swap. It shows he has a 93 4runner.

Scott

[79coyotefrg]

I think he is preping his axle for the swap. It shows he has a 93 4runner.

Scott

[atoyot [OP]]

well if  you have a  85  then you already have a solid front axle, SAS= Solid Axle Swap

what  it sounds like your talking about is getting the brake rotor off the wheel hub (where the wheel lugs hold the wheel to the axle)

you dont need to remove that to get the  inner bearing out,  

the  seal  is  all that keeps the bearing in there when its not on the truck

look at the outer bearing that  fell out on the ground when you took the  big nuts off the spindle,  if  it doesnt look like its  about to fall to pieces  then  most likely  your inner bearing is fine too


if  your rebuilding the  axle  you just need Marlins Knuckle rebuild Kit

i want to take it off any way because marlins sas kit comes with new rotors. or do i use the ifs rotors and wheel hubs?
so how would i seperate the wheel hub from the rotor?

[OOPS]

i want to take it off any way because marlins sas kit comes with new rotors. or do i use the ifs rotors and wheel hubs?
so how would i seperate the wheel hub from the rotor?

You have to press the lug studs out in order to change the rotor.

[79coyotefrg]

i want to take it off any way because marlins sas kit comes with new rotors. or do i use the ifs rotors and wheel hubs?
so how would i seperate the wheel hub from the rotor?

yes  you want to remove the  rotors,  i didnt realise you were putting the 85 axle under a 93 4runner,

yes  you will use Marlins rotors   so  just remove the 2 bolts  then  either press  or  using a  drift  drive the studs out  try not to mess the threads up

[atoyot [OP]]

yes  you want to remove the  rotors,  i didnt realise you were putting the 85 axle under a 93 4runner,

yes  you will use Marlins rotors   so  just remove the 2 bolts  then  either press  or  using a  drift  drive the studs out  try not to mess the threads up

thanks for the info i would have been pounding those studs out with a hammer
i want to get the front axle done b4 anything else.
im purchasing the knuckle rebuild from marlin. i also plan to get 529s and a locker for the front and rear. do i have to set my gears and lockers before i put the axles and the knuckles back together? i dont plan on messing with the diff. i mght mess something up so im going to get it done buy someone else that knows what there doing

[fordh8r]

thanks for the info i would have been pounding those studs out with a hammer

Since you're doing a SAS and you'll have the torsion bars removed, use the torsion bars (as a really long punch) and a small sledge  . The extra weight drives the studs out in a big hurry and since you're hitting the torsion bar and not the stud directly you greatly reduce the risk of damage to any of the studs. You can even stand up and drive them out with the rotor on the floor... .  If you decide to keep the torsion bars for future use as tools, you can cut one in a 1/3 and 2/3 length and have 3 different length punches. They're quite tough too being they're made of spring steel  .

[fordh8r]

If you don't have a helping hand, I've even used a spare wheel (without a tire on it, tire will absorb shock) to set the rotor in face down (on the floor) with the studs sticking through the bolt holes in the wheel center to hold the rotor while driving in the studs. It's a bit noisy but you won't be picking up the rotor after every hit (time saver)

[MiniSimp]

do i have to set my gears and lockers before i put the axles and the knuckles back together?

Yes, your locker will have to be installed, and your gears set.

It goes like this:
Empty Housing
Install 3rd
Install new bearings/races and seals
Set bearing preload
Install knuckle backing rings/felts/seals
Install Knuckle
and so on. The FSM has all the information you need as far as rebuilding it properly.

[atoyot [OP]]

Since you're doing a SAS and you'll have the torsion bars removed, use the torsion bars (as a really long punch) and a small sledge  . The extra weight drives the studs out in a big hurry and since you're hitting the torsion bar and not the stud directly you greatly reduce the risk of damage to any of the studs. You can even stand up and drive them out with the rotor on the floor... .  If you decide to keep the torsion bars for future use as tools, you can cut one in a 1/3 and 2/3 length and have 3 different length punches. They're quite tough too being they're made of spring steel  .

so it s like hammering the studs out just with an extension to prevent damage to the studs. i was almost going to pound directly on those studs.   

[atoyot [OP]]

Yes, your locker will have to be installed, and your gears set.

It goes like this:
Empty Housing
Install 3rd
Install new bearings/races and seals
Set bearing preload
Install knuckle backing rings/felts/seals
Install Knuckle
and so on. The FSM has all the information you need as far as rebuilding it properly.

after the third do my axles go in ?

[MiniSimp]

No, after the 3rd, then your knuckle bearings/races, then your knuckles, then your axles, then your spindle, then your rotors, then your hub.

[MiniSimp]

The FSM has all the information you need as far as rebuilding it properly.

http://www.lukemiller.org/toys/1985_toyota_4wd_front_axle_FSM.pdf

[OOPS]

after the third do my axles go in ?

In my first post on this thread I gave you a link to the FSM, use it, there are even pictures.

[atoyot [OP]]

No, after the 3rd, then your knuckle bearings/races, then your knuckles, then your axles, then your spindle, then your rotors, then your hub.

thanks for that link. it would be a lot of help for me. do i need that snap ring plier to get in to the manual hub? or can i do it with some flatheads

[MiniSimp]

do i need that snap ring plier to get in to the manual hub? or can i do it with some flatheads

No, you want Lock-Ring plyers

[fordh8r]

so it s like hammering the studs out just with an extension to prevent damage to the studs. i was almost going to pound directly on those studs.  

 

[atoyot [OP]]

No, you want Lock-Ring plyers

ok ill need to buy me a pair

[MiniSimp]

They are like $15 at Kragens.

[79coyotefrg]

ive done it  with 2 flat  screw drivers  but its a PITA

[atoyot [OP]]

ive done it  with 2 flat  screw drivers  but its a PITA

ill stick to the snap ring pliers

[atoyot [OP]]

this is my progress so far. i cleaned out the knuckles and spindles (is there a specific way to clean them because i just used a pressure washer dried the knuckles and spindles and soaked em in wd40 so it wont rust). and dont know if i should take the diff off. the next thing ill be working on is the manual locking hubs. i want to know if im on the right track on rebuilding my axle

[fordh8r]

Lookin good so far  Do start with the diff though... that is the center and work your way outward towards  the knuckles and wheels 

[atoyot [OP]]

Lookin good so far  Do start with the diff though... that is the center and work your way outward towards  the knuckles and wheels 

it makes sense. but im not messing with the diff. im just going to buy a detroit locker and a set of yukon 529 all ready to go so i could just bolt it on. i have no experience with this stuff and ive heard that if i set the gears wrong it could all be grinded up and that would be money down the drain. so i plan on getting them all ready assembled then i gotta worry about purchasing my axles next. this stuff cost a lot of money . but i might as well do it right. so after i get my front axle done i plann on purchasing my front and rear suspension

[MiniSimp]

im just going to buy a detroit locker and a set of yukon 529 all ready to go so i could just bolt it on.

Um...yeah...you still have to take out your 3rd.

[atoyot [OP]]

i understand that i just gotta save a little bit more so i could buy the third member thats already set up with detroits and yukon gears. is there any place where its cheap to buy that third setup? or would it be cheaper to get the parts seperate and get it installed proffesionally?

[fordh8r]

i understand that i just gotta save a little bit more so i could buy the third member thats already set up with detroits and yukon gears. is there any place where its cheap to buy that third setup? or would it be cheaper to get the parts seperate and get it installed proffesionally?

Cheap?  That's relative (to your wallet, that is), but this is why a lot of guys here are choosing to do their own gear builds since either way you go (as you mentioned) it could be pricey. just the locker alone adds a good chunk of change to one axle. Then throw gears and bearings and seals and braces and before you know it (cash register sound) cha-ching.  Not to mention the money you save (if your build is succesful) can be used elsewhere in your build  . Keep shopping till you find someone reasonable and reputable. If it takes long enough and you happen to become frustrated along with some research you might even get over your inhibition of DIY gear building. As long as your happy with what you choose and end up with  Good luck!