Topic: 22r questions, newb needs help!

[naga_81]

Hey guys I've got an 81 pickup w/ 22r.  Sometimes it runs great all day, but sometimes it will continually die.  I'll be driving and push in the clutch to shift and it will die, or come to a stop and put in neutral and it will die.  It'll start back up most of the time but as soon as I drop below 2k rpms it will die again.  Above 2k it runs fine but below it stumbles and slowly sputters till its dead. 

I've read that this could sometimes be symptoms of fuel filter, but I cant find it.  I've heard under the passenger fender?  I couldnt find it is it different in 81s? 

Ive also noticed the lines to the BVSV (?) were torn and the BVSV is actually cracked, what is this and will this affect it? 

Finally, this is a Cal truck so a vacuum nightmare, what DONT i need? 

Any suggestions to my problems are greatly appreciated.  TIA

[kneedownnate]

There's an idle solenoid on the pass side of your carb, and if there's a bad connection on it it could be breaking contact sometimes.  Check all your wires going to the carb for a bad connection.

[naga_81 [OP]]

I'll check the connections, thanks for the suggestion.  If it helps the truck likes to die when the fuel is low, and usually when its warmed up.  There has been 2 occasions where it wouldnt start back up, and when it did it smelt like the carb was flooded.  It also seems to run rich, so I'm not sure its a filter problem... 

Anyone with a Cal vacuum diagram?

[79coyotefrg]

trace the wires from the fuel cut switch back to the vacuum switch on the fender vsv  i think there called,  check the vacuum lines associated with this and see what you get

[krawlz]

Fuel filters on the pass side back by the tank. front side of the rear wheel opening

[naga_81 [OP]]

Well checked the wiring it looks ok, fixed the vacuum problems I found yesterday, found out today that there was a vacuum leak on the line to the distributor.  I fixed that and the truck was running great, held idle good (bit of stumbling, idle was low about 500 raised it to about 750-1000), was starting up fine.  However, now as soon as it starts it dies, I can hold on the gas and its fine but once I let off it dies. 

Also no fuel filter in the rear, I can trace the lines from the front to back no filter, I guess the previous owner removed it? 

[kneedownnate]

Not necessarilly, not all models had the filter right by the tank, and some were a similar type that was on the inner fender.  You can just use a generic in line filter, I do and I like having it right there where I can see if/what's obstructing it, and it helped me figure out once that I had water in my system.

[jimbo74]

http://yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=59999&highlight=22r+fuel+filter

[naga_81 [OP]]

Ok newest update, BVSV was broke so I re-plumbed the vacuum lines.  Stalling problem has gotten worse, more sporadic.  However, today it drove like a charm all day.  I found a vacuum leak on the vacuum advance fixed that but still dies.  Out of curiosity the distributer is turned all the was toward the front end, is that right>?  Tried adjusting toward the cab but idle got worse.  Any other solutions?

[naga_81 [OP]]

Still need help.  The stalling is getting worse.  Fixed the bvsv, and all other vacuum leaks.  Put everything back together and it seems to stall more.  Now the stalling seems to occur when the trucks warmed up.  Does this help indicate anything?  Just so u guys know, tested EGR, AAP, EGR modulator all working properly.  Any help on this?

[BlenDeR]

If your distributor is turned all the way back (counter-clockwise), then it's fully retarded, you may want to check into that.  Maybe your carbs' jets are fouled?  How old are the spark plugs & wires, cap & rotor?  When was the last time the truck was serviced with a through tune-up? 

My tune-up went something like this:

1. One entire can of Valvoline Synthetic carb/throttle body cleaner, sprayed down the carb (running of course).
2. One can of Seafoam into the intake manifold through vaccum line (running).
3. New Distributor Cap
4. New Distributor Rotor
5. New Spark Plug Wires
6. New Spark Plugs (I prefer NGK)
7. New Fuel Filter
8. A Bottle of Redline Fuel System Cleaner mixed with a full tank of Cheveron Supreme
9. Adjust the timing. Mine is advanced about 2-3 degrees above stock (set @ 5 BTDC).
10. Engine Flush and Oil Change.

Don't add any fuel until driving to a 1/4 or below, or you'll just waste your Fuel System treatment. I noticed a considerable difference in the way the truck performed after doing this tune-up. She ran smoother, pulled better under acceleration, idled smoother, and was easier to start. I recommend these fuel system cleaners. Redline, Duralube, Slick50, Valvoline, Berryman's B-12 Chemtool, and Greased Lightning. I also did a chemical flush and back-flush on the cooling system. I didn't add it on the tune-up list because that's a long interval maintenance item. One thing I didn't do at that time was adjust the valve lash. I did do that later on, and the engine smoothed out even more (I clearanced the lash a "thingy hair" tighter than factory spec too).

Note: I can testify to the effectiveness of my method of intake/fuel system cleaning. It does work. About 2 weeks later, I replaced my head gasket. In the process of doing such I inspected the intake ports. They were extremely clean by any standards. Although, there is no hope for the carbon that gets caked on the pistons. However with regular useage of fuel system cleaners on a fresh engine, carbon build-up on pistons should be kept at a minimum.

[jimbo74]

if it runs like crap and adjusting the dizzy jsut makes it worse, is it possible that your dizzy gear is over a tooth too far?

[naga_81 [OP]]

OK so checked the timing today.  It was a bit off. My engine sticker says 8 BTDC, did that and set it about 2 degrees advanced, Im at about 4000 ft so it runs a bit rich. I think this is correct seems to run nice.  On top of that I also noticed when the filter cover is off there is a large vacuum line comming out the bottom to a valve inside the cover (about 5/16 line or so) well this was causing a vacuum leak so I plugged it and the truck was running better.  However, it ran good all day after fixing the timing (if I did it right) but tonight I start it up and it dies.  Sit on the throttle for a bit and once it warms up its good.  But about 5 mins later pull up to a stop light and it dies.  Start her up and go and ever since then running good again. 

Few questions:
1. How can I adjust the air/fuel mix in the carb?  Where do I drill the plug out?
2. Whats that vacuum line I plugged, or whats the valves purpose?
3. Any suggestions on what to check more for the stalling issue?

Trucks got new plugs, wires, dizzy cap, rotor, and I ran seafoam through it.  I will try the redline cleaner this week. 

Thanks for all the help!