Author Topic: More Engine Woes...GOOD NEWS! (Read 9764 times)

CTENG in KS · « **on:** Nov 16, 2006, 04:47:30 PM »

I have been trying to get this stupid motor running for months now.
What I have done:
Replacement head - decked and pressure tested
new head gasket
new timing chain kit, new timing cover, new water pump

I was having a bunch of issues initially, but I got a big honking new battery and most of them have gone away.

Issue left:

When truck starts it is running perfect, 800 idle, no noises whatsoever.
I take it for a drive, after about a hundred feet I begin to hear a rattling noise. It is happening either when I blip the throttle fast or when I make a turn and leave it in second and the RPM are a little too low. It is coming from the front of the engine and sounds like the timing chain. I get out and blip the throttle by hand and sure enough it sounds like the timing chain. I drive a bit down the street and coming back it is getting to sounding werse.

Then as I go to turn sharp into my garage in neutral it dies on me. I let it sit for about 30 sec, start it up and she is purring like a kitten again as I pull it into the garage.

WTF, this is a brand new timing chain. I have oil pressure so the tensioner should be functioning right? How long does it take for the pressure to come up enough? The damn noise is really pretty loud.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #1 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 05:10:00 PM »

Have you taken the oil pan off? There is a possibility the pickup screen is plugged up with carbon sludge. This happens when an engine has a sludge film and it comes loose. It is picked up by the oil flow and blocks the screen. When you shut off the engine it falls off and the process starts all over again.

How is the oil pressure? Gauge or light? Timing chain will get loose with a drop in oil pressure.

olivedrab85 · « **Reply #2 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 05:11:01 PM »

Should come up right away. Did you clean out all the sledge where the tensioner goes into the block? Do you have the correct bolt in the front of the timing cover right in front of the trensioner?(should be shorter than the rest if it's to long it will hang up the tensioner) It could be a faulty tensioner I did a timing chain not to long ago and had a bad tensioner, so I had to do it again.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #3 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 05:15:23 PM »

I dropped the pan when I did the timing cover and cleaned it all out...the gage is reading little over a third of the way up...says I have pressure. Could the pickup be totally clogged or something?

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #4 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 05:18:05 PM »

I will check the bolt tomorrow.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #5 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 05:19:31 PM »

How do you get a bad tensioner...its not a very complicated deal...

olivedrab85 · « **Reply #6 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 05:23:00 PM »

Not sure what was wrong with it. It would stick in if pushed in or stick out when pulled out.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #7 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 05:29:35 PM »

Nope...mine was nice and springy.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #8 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 05:30:02 PM »

Quote from: olivedrab85 on Nov 16, 2006, 05:23:00 PM

Not sure what was wrong with it. It would stick in if pushed in or stick out when pulled out.

Did you use the gasket? I seem to remmember having part of the tensioner drag the block without a gasket. May not have been a Toyota though.

Oil pressure will be normal at start, but drop off after having run for a while. You need to keep an eye on it.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #9 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 05:41:26 PM »

aaahhhh...I don't remember taking off a gasket from the old one, or a gasket coming with the kit...Is there supposed to be a gasket??
Why would the pressure drop after a while?

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #10 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 06:54:47 PM »

Temp tends to thin out the oil

Not to say that is your problem.

Also did you check your screen on the pickup?

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #11 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 06:57:50 PM »

Course...that makes sense...
I will have to check and see if I have the wrong boly in the timing cover
If not then I will drop the oil pan and see if there is anything in there that is clogging up the werks.
After that what?
Try a new oil pump?

Could this be caused by some other issue?

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #12 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 07:02:26 PM »

Did you use any silicone sealer? It is possible a piece could have gotten in the small hole in the tensioner blocking the flow of oil there.

In any case it sounds like an oil pressure problem don't it? Maybe you just need to start it backwards every now and again.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #13 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 07:13:44 PM »

That would suck anything right out the other way, eh? We can't all have special engines like yurs.

It does sound like an oil issue...I will start the search.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #14 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 07:18:40 PM »

Sorry you have to go through all that work again. Look for anything that would cause a blockage. I think the hole in the tensioner is only like 1/32". Also make sure the long guide is adjusted to take up the slack with the tensioner compressed.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #15 on:** Nov 16, 2006, 07:33:49 PM »

Alright, I don't think there was much in the way of adjustment in the guides.

I will check in the oil pan first and go from there.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #16 on:** Nov 17, 2006, 05:23:58 PM »

Oil is out...clean as a whistle.
Pan drops tomorrow, cross your fingers for me.

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #17 on:** Nov 17, 2006, 05:31:16 PM »

Check for parafin build up, that crap will plug everything.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #18 on:** Nov 17, 2006, 05:38:39 PM »

Build up on the screen or up in the block?
If the passages in the block are all gunked...how would I clean that junk out?

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #19 on:** Nov 17, 2006, 05:46:05 PM »

In the block parfin wax based engine oil really messes up stuff as it collects inside the block. My Tercel had this problem and we used old speedo cables and a varible speed drill to clean it out.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #20 on:** Nov 17, 2006, 05:50:08 PM »

ooooooo I just replaced my throttle cable...old one might werk like a charm! It is all frawed at the end and everything!

Do they make any oil additives for breaking down stuff in the passages?

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #21 on:** Nov 17, 2006, 06:02:45 PM »

That is the trouble, it breaks loose and floats around in the pan and gets picked up by the sump screen clogging it.

If this is the problem it would almost be better if the block was hot tanked and reassembled.

Quaker State and Penszoil is good for causing this.

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #22 on:** Nov 17, 2006, 07:42:44 PM »

That's why I only use Casteroil.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #23 on:** Nov 17, 2006, 08:22:48 PM »

OK, just did some reading...
Sorry Mark, not gonna tank this block right now, want to get engine running.

What I seem to be picking up is that higher milleage engines with low oil pressure issues can benefit from a heavier wight oil...20-30wt seems to be the consensus.

Stay away from Penzoil, Kendall

Good ones: Synthetics (Mobile 1), Valvoline, Castrol, Havoline...

There is also the trick of using a quart of ATF with an oil change and running that for bout 500 miles and changing again.
Not sure that I wanna be changing the erl that much...methinks I will see how things look in the pan and try some 20wt dino juice. Clean up the screen and check passages as well.

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #24 on:** Nov 17, 2006, 08:27:15 PM »

I usually throw in a qt. of ATF 500 miles before I change it. Works real good, but will not help the parafin issue if you have one. Cleans sluge 1st time though.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #25 on:** Nov 18, 2006, 06:21:45 AM »

Yes, thinner oil will cause pressure to drop when hot. Depends how cold it gets for you, but I have always run 20w 50 Castrol or Valvoline. It never gets below 30* for more than a couple hrs here.

You could try a new high volume oil pump if you can get one.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #26 on:** Nov 18, 2006, 03:49:09 PM »

Alrighty...I checked the pan and the oil in the bottomis clean as when I put it in last month...no large particles of nasty.

Pulled the pickup and the screen is clean, throttle cable went through it and came back clean.

Same for block passages...throttle cable showing no blockages or large particles of junk.

I am gonna find a new oil pump tomorrow and try that and some 20wt oil. I will check that timing cover bolt when I get some of the crap cleared for the oil pump.
Any other thoughts??

Weldo · « **Reply #27 on:** Nov 19, 2006, 01:03:28 PM »

If your oil passages are clean and your oil pressure gauge indicates you have pressure, I'm not sure what good a new oil pump will help.

You mentioned that it died in neutral after a sharp turn into your garage. Does the motor struggle when you sit still, idling and you turn the steering wheel lock to lock? I thought maybe if your power steering pump was bad or low on fluid it might cause undue stress on an idling motor, perhaps causing it to stall. I believe there is a vacuum line running from the PS pump to the intake plenum that it supposed to act as an "idle up". It's supposed to keep the motor from bogging down too much when you turn the steering wheel at lower speeds or sitting still.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #28 on:** Nov 19, 2006, 01:18:42 PM »

Those lines are capped off...but I have been considering putting the lines back on to see if that is the stalling issue. My biggest concern right now is the lack of oil pressure increase under throttle. The chain tensioner just isn't working at thottle and the chain is rattling like crazy. I haven't ordered a pump yet, I am gonna go pull the front acc. off first and have a look-see.

Weldo · « **Reply #29 on:** Nov 19, 2006, 02:14:48 PM »

I just took apart my old 22RE when i spun a bearing, I'll check to see if there is a gasket on the tensioner. I'd offer you my tensioner, but you said yours was good and springy, but still if you end up needing one, I'll send it to ya.

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