Topic: 93 toyota pu 4cyl knocking and squealing???

[spacoli]

Hello everyone , great site, looking forward to doing some searches for info on my truck.

A buddy of mine has a 93 4wd pick up with 130,000 in pretty good shape. One day after work he started it and it was knocking and squealing out of the blue. He shut it off and had it towed to his house, it has been sitting there for two years, he never looked into what was wrong. He said it aways ran good, did not use any oil, just minor usual problems (starter,fuel pump both replaced).

I plan on buying it from him today for $500. What do you think the knocking and squealling noise is? I'm hoping it's just the bottom end bearings. If not I plan on getting a short or long block for in it worse case.
I will have a decent truck for $2000.

Can you get to and drop the oil pan on this truck to investigate?

I'm no car mechanic, but I have changed engines in the past and I'm confident I can do this.
I have been doing research on remanufactured engines, anything special I should be looking for?
Any ideas or info on getting this truck on the road would be appreciated.

[79coyotefrg]

thats sounds like a rod bearing ,   how was the oil pressure??  a 22RE  can easily go 200,000 plus miles

[Hottrod81]

Just took one out of a 4Runner that I bought for $900.  It had the same thing and it turned out to be a main bearing.  I could probably get by with a crank kit, but I am going to do a full rebuild.

[jimbo74]

stay away from attarco

[spacoli [OP]]

Didn't realy look into it yet, picking it up tonight and look into things. Can the oil pan be dropped?

[91 super yoda]

it can if you remove the IFS third member, dont know if ya wanna do that much work.

[Hottrod81]

Mine actually truned out to be a spun rod bearing.

[79coyotefrg]

Mine actually truned out to be a spun rod bearing.

the knocking is the  loosening and beating to death of the crank, the squeealing is when the bearings stack  and start chewing the crank

wish you were closer i have 3 cranks

btw,  if you need a crank  go find a 20R,  the cranks are the same  ,  and on the 84 and older 22R's   everything but the pistons  are the same,  well not the same but  probably better

[Yota87Truck]

My friend has the same year truck, he just bought it about 6 months ago.  I hope he doesn't have the same problem.

[spacoli [OP]]

Here is a link to the knocking sound. At first I held the recorder down
underneath the truck, if you listen you can here when I move it to the top
under the hood.

http://media.putfile.com/Toyota-engine-knocking

The truck took a little to get started, but once it did it starts right up.
It seems to idle well, other than the knocking. After running it I checked
the dipstick and the oil seemed a little milky.

So what is it?

I taked to a guy today that has done some work for me before and I can trust
that he will do the job right. He is a very experianced mechanic and works
on the side at his house. He said he would pull the old engine and install
the new or used engine for $400. Is that a good deal.

I have pulled and replaced engines in a older (80's) subaru once before. I'm in no hurry and I do have more help avaivible with an engine hoist. I might just do it myself and put the money saved towards other parts while the engine is out (clutch,ect.)


I'm going to start today removing some of the engine components,pull the head, in general inspection (not that I know what I'm looking for,he he he)

[91 super yoda]

sounds like a rod bearing to me. it sounded like it was hitting too fast for a main bearing. its not hard to pull a 22re, you could also find a long block on the toyota forums for around $400, id do the work myself if i were you and save the money. or use the same motor and put a crank kit in it.

[spacoli [OP]]

I started today and have it just about ready to come out. I think the worst was the wiring. Pulling all those wires though the intake manifold and the wiring that goes back to the tranny and transfer case. It should be a real pain getting them all back in and going to the right spot. Some went up, back, down, across, oh ya fun,fun,fun.

Overall I think it went well. I did an online parts request for a engine and received about 7 responses. One is 55 miles away, 93,000 miles on it and a cost of $600.


I do have some questions and see photos below. Is this where I should disconect the fuel line (4th pic)? How do I get the 2 17mm bolts out of the upper bell housing right next to the firewall (2nd & 3rd pic)? I realy didn't try hard, I was done for the day and getting tired. I thought I read somewhere I might be better off taking out the tranny with the engine, is this true?

Picture 5 is what came out of the bottom of the radiator and some of the other low hoses, very oily and sludgy. When I removed the steel elbow that is conected with two hoses from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator, there was a thick oily sludge coming out of it.

What is you take on this cross mixing? Where did the oil and coolant get mixed at? Is it probably under the timing chain cover?


http://www.mytoyotatruck.com/spacoli/

[91 super yoda]

ok, for the fuel line there is a ?joint along the fuel line with a bolt through it, you take that out and the fuel line seperates. sobebody help me out with the (blah)joint, i have seemed to forget what its called.

and for the bolts in the bellhousing, you can take an angled wratchet wrench from the top and work it out, or you can go from the fenderwell and get it out. and for pullin the tranny with the motor is just personal preference. how do you feel about stabbing a tranny by yourself in the truck, or out of the truck.

the sludge could be a few things that you probly wont find out till you have the motor apart. yes you could have a leak in your water pump/timing chain cover, or you could have bad head gasket or a cracked head, or thrown a rod through the cylinder wall and punctured a water jacket. many things cause that one.

[spacoli [OP]]

I beleive the fitting you are talking about is a banjo fitting. I seen that but I wasn't sure. Is that the fuel filter it attaches to?

Well anyway I should update you. I have the other two bolts out and shes ready to be pulled. I have found a used engine 70 miles away for $600. It has 93,000 on it, been run,compression checked,ect. and 90 day warranty. I plan on installing this, before installing the used engine back in the truck.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=130034373048&ih=003&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

I also want to put a new clutch in, what would be a good clutch to get? I don't need a heavy duty, high performance clutch, just a good quality.

[91 super yoda]

borg warner has a pretty good everyday clutch, dont get a cheapo with the rubber dampeners, you'll kick yourself. Marlin also has some middle and high grade clutches that are high on the list. and centerforce makes reliable clutches as well. just personal preference really. Ive got a borg warner in my 91 and in my 88 and have had no problems, but i here the marlin and the centerforce are excellent clutches as well. and ya it is a banjo fitting, it slipped my mind. and yes it does run into the fuel pump.

[spacoli [OP]]

Thanks for the clutch info. So I will end up disconecting that "banjo' fitting when I install a new fuel filter. Hopefully I will be making a trip Saturday for the engine.

I sure have learned allot here and the other forums. Thanks and I will keep everyone posted.

[kneedownnate]

Holy crap!  You couldn't pay me to let my engine run that long with that loud a knock!  I think it's time for surgery.

[spacoli [OP]]

From what I have heard from the guys at work, the guy I bought this truck from drove it possible 5 miles into work after it started knocking.

[Yota87Truck]

Did you find the engine on ebay?

[spacoli [OP]]

Found it 70 + miles away at a salvage $500. with 100,000 miles on it.

[Oddmar]

Laughed my arse off when i heard that audio clip!! Made my skin crawl to think about what's happening inside that engine. I sell rebuilt stock 22R's for $900, or performance 22R's (bored 30 over, broad range cam, ported & polished) for $1300. Dunno about shipping cause i dunno where you live.

[spacoli [OP]]

Hey Guys, I have the used engine in. It's got a few bugs but nothing that can't be worked out. It has a little lifter tapping and was smoking allot, but that smoke has gone away.

A few things I'm not sure of.

The fuel pump is buzzing in the tank, this was just replaced by previous owner right before the engine went. Not sure if the truck sitting for over two years has to do with that buzzing or not.

When starting at first it has a good high idle, then starts to idle down, then the idle starts to pulsate down and up, at first the pulsating is far apart, the pulsating gets closer together until it drops to normal idle.
This does not happen every time I start it, but it has happened the last two times. The idle does seem low (no tach to give a rpm) but never stalls.

While driving and stomping on the gas it seems to cut out like it's starving or flooding for fuel, I'm not sure which. If I give it steady gas it seems fine until I hit the higher RPM.

Any thought or ideas on these issues.

[91 super yoda]

check all of the following: MAF sensor, TPS, water temp. sensor, dirty injectors, fuel filter(if you didnt change it with the engine).

[spacoli [OP]]

Fuel filter was changed. What should I be looking for, with all the other items you listed. It sounds like I should just go get a diagnostic check?

My take on it was, the fuel pump is straining to get the proper fuel to keep the engine running. Possibly from the truck sitting for years, bad fuel,tank sediment,ect. is clogging up at the pump screen/strainer.

I plan on pulling the bed and the pump out to see if that might be it.

Thanks

[91 super yoda]

sounds feasable, are you running it with 2 year old gas? cause my lawn mower wont run on gas left over the winter.

[spacoli [OP]]

I removed the bed today, removed the pump and the screen was totally cloged up. It was a cream color coating over the whole screen. I sprayed it off with carb cleaner and it removed it all. I then drained the gas removed the tank and flushed it out. I had allot of junk in it. I'm pretty sure that was the problem with the pump noise. It would be my guess it was the problem with the engine cutting out at higher RPM.

I won't be able to tell you if it is the problem  right away, since the bed is off, I'm replacing some rusty brake lines and painting up the rusty frame and the rusty spots of underside of the bed.

I will post when I get it done.

Thanks

[spacoli [OP]]

 Hey I have it running now, ready for inspection today. There is something wrong when I first start it up (not all the time).

The idle is higher (normal for warming up) then it drops quick, then back up, it pulsates? I noticed this when I was flushing the old coolant out (warm up,drain,refill). I did notice if I would turn the heater fan on high, the engine would stay running at a higher idle for a longer period of time, soon as I turn the hearter off it would start pulsating again. When the idle pulsates, it starts far apart then gets faster (time). Some type of sensor (hot/cool)? Engine light has been on from the start.

Thanks

[toyotatuner]

for your idle problem, read this, easy fix if thats what it is....
http://www.wildyoats.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=12782

[spacoli [OP]]

That thread is awsome, good info there. That little coolant hose I think its the same one they talk about, was on mine  leaking a little bit so I replaced it.

Mine doesn't do it all the time, although I have not run it much yet, I guess I will see once I'm done flushing out all the old coolant and crap.

My idle is extremely low, it seems like its going to stall when I come to a stop. Could be the same problem?

A buddy at work I have been talking to has the same problem. I don't know what this is all about but, he said the he was adding coolant and it seemed to cure his problem for a little then it came back.

Thanks

[toyotatuner]

yeah, just for shirts and giggles, try and blow it out w/ CO2.  oh, and take off the plastic intake pipe and squirt out all those vaccum ports inside the TB while your at it.