Hydro Assist:box and pump mods

Started by freds40, April 17, 2005, 03:33:32 PM

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

DTB

Quote from: Yota4life on July 08, 2007, 07:27:57 PM
Well i ended up using JB weld to fill the crevice and i smoothed it with a die grinder. Put the Correct 0-ring on and it dosent leak at all now! I was really excited about that. Ran the rubicon saturday and it worked great. Wow jb weld does wonders. :)
WOW! i mean really wow..that is amazing....  :suprised:
RIP KYOTA
Quotetoyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

Yota4life

I know that it probley leaked from that but it was also because i was running the wrong 0-ring before. I used jb weld on my t-case to fill cracks and it still dosent leak. haha
88 Toyota Pickup with some stuff...
Build up: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=11133.160

4XFlyin

82 1st Gen with 4.3L vortec and 4l60e. Linked front and rear

My build up. Getting linked
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=50700.msg711361#msg711361

DieselD

awesome write up, made tapping my box a breeze. took about 3hours from start to finish which includes running around looking for drill bit that was worth a damn. Ive never been inside a toy box either so it was new.

either way it was easy. I have yet to get it on the truck and pumping fluid but hopefully all is well.

4XFlyin

Freds40,

Have you ever had any issues with the fitting on top of the box not being able to thread in very much since the tap can't go that deep. I have done a couple of boxes and wish the fitting went in deeper than 3 threads. I am working on another one now and I am going to use a second tap after running the first one that bottoms out. My second tap will be from the same maufacturer, but I am going to shave off 1/4" from the tap. Hopefully this will allow me to use the wider part of the tap and be able to get the fitting to screw in more than 3 threads. If I get 4 or five I will be very happy. Especially if it does not leak.
82 1st Gen with 4.3L vortec and 4l60e. Linked front and rear

My build up. Getting linked
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=50700.msg711361#msg711361

freds40

I know it can happen. When I do mine I run the drill bit to the very bottom of the vein. Then run the tap in as tight as possible. I can usually get 4-5 threads to grab. When I have done Sag boxes, I have used a second ground tap to get it in deeper.
"between projects"

4XFlyin

82 1st Gen with 4.3L vortec and 4l60e. Linked front and rear

My build up. Getting linked
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=50700.msg711361#msg711361

Vortec_Cruiser

Use your regular tap, and then use a bottoming tap, which doesn't have a taper to it.  This will give you full-depth threads.  ;)
Ed Gilbert - TLCA #5659, So. Cal. TLCA,
1977(reg. as 1962) FJ40 w/5.7L Vortec
Formula 4 Toy F006 (Build in-progress)

ryno1

Fred, is the 4cyl pump the same as the V6 pump?  I have the V6 and was wondering if the process for drilling the restrictor is the same.

JZ

same here fred I got the v6 also and there isn't many options of a pump.

4XFlyin

The v6 pump I worked on had two small holes in the restrictor instead of one from the factory. In trying to knock out the restrictor to figure out how to drill it, I ended up puching a hole between the two holes accidently. So I ended up with one large hole. For some reason the restrictor would not come out by lightly tapping it out. It ended up working out just fine.

Good luck
82 1st Gen with 4.3L vortec and 4l60e. Linked front and rear

My build up. Getting linked
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=50700.msg711361#msg711361

Yota4life

Quote from: 4X Flyin on November 22, 2007, 12:27:56 PM
The v6 pump I worked on had two small holes in the restrictor instead of one from the factory. In trying to knock out the restrictor to figure out how to drill it, I ended up puching a hole between the two holes accidently. So I ended up with one large hole. For some reason the restrictor would not come out by lightly tapping it out. It ended up working out just fine.

Good luck

Same happened here. I tried punching it out and it broke out. Been running it for a long time with no problems. Works great
88 Toyota Pickup with some stuff...
Build up: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=11133.160

chadchad/ rocksnot

thanks for helping save money bra

88_Pathy

If you didn't want to run assist could you just drill the restricter on the pump to get stronger power steering?

DTB

Quote from: 4X Flyin on November 22, 2007, 12:27:56 PM
The v6 pump I worked on had two small holes in the restrictor instead of one from the factory. In trying to knock out the restrictor to figure out how to drill it, I ended up puching a hole between the two holes accidently. So I ended up with one large hole. For some reason the restrictor would not come out by lightly tapping it out. It ended up working out just fine.

Good luck
I used a nail that I found on the garage floor to poke mine out...works great so far :yupyup:
RIP KYOTA
Quotetoyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

freds40

"between projects"

BigBs84

Quote from: 88_Pathy on February 13, 2008, 06:34:18 PM
If you didn't want to run assist could you just drill the restricter on the pump to get stronger power steering?
Hey man I did that and you had to get the rpm's up for it to turn it sucked so I put a stock one back in and it works fine
Build it wright-wind it tight
   High-N-Tight offroad
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=45027.0 My truggy build

Bazzi

#257
Quote from: freds40 on February 23, 2008, 05:29:21 PM
Updated with Rick's info.  :thumbs:
I can´t find a post from rick... where is the new scoop   :hammer: (modified) sorry guy´s I am a dumb  :moon:
the info is at page 1.
4runner body on a hilux frame = Hi-Runner.
2,4 dti duals 2,28 x 2,28 to 8" 5.71 with arb´s  and 39,5" trxus
gathering parts for my goal which is
350 Chevy 700r4 auto to 2.28 x 4.70  and 4.88 9,5" cruisers diffs,diamondaxles and cable lockers, 44" richard cepecs

freds40

"between projects"

sixtninecat

The 9-4410-06 Cylinder is out of stock indefinitely at Surplus Center.  What are some other places to get cylinders online???


Joe

freds40

That sucks. I bought one just a month or so back. Check out Northern Tool. They should have a 6" stroke 1.5" cylinder.
"between projects"

DTB

Just FYI, Ballistic Fab just came out with 1.25" clamps for your tie rod mount


http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/OD-Tube-Clamp_p_21-1474.html
RIP KYOTA
Quotetoyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

Doof

bump so i dont have to search again

DTB

RIP KYOTA
Quotetoyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

Doof


kiyul4130

i tapped my box yesterday. it was quite easier than i thought it seemed to be. i still dont have all my steering together to see how it works yet. i will post once its completed.
-kiyul-
92 1 ton ex cab, marlin dual ultimates, 42 iroks, hydro assist, flat bellied, linked and more...
ECV 7-11

KYOTA FOREVER

yota-tota

anyone drill and tap the box without taking it apart? seems like it would work if you just took your time drilling it out....like keep blowing the chips away and put some grease on the end of the drill bit and tap to grab the chips. Also use a s strong magnet by your drill bit to grab the chips as well.

I'm just worried about not getting it back together correctly that's all and a few small chips can't make that big of a deal.
91 toy truggy on h2 injection, hacked n chopped n locked n SAS'd rolling 36" IROKS........doubler comming soon

4XFlyin

I have done 3 of them. I can tell you that there is no way of doing it with out having chips stuck inside. Go ahead and do it if you want. Please post up after at least 1000 miles and let us know how it turned out.
82 1st Gen with 4.3L vortec and 4l60e. Linked front and rear

My build up. Getting linked
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=50700.msg711361#msg711361

DTB

Quote from: yota-tota on September 08, 2008, 03:47:05 PM
a few small chips can't make that big of a deal.
yes they are a big deal.    dont try to take a shortcut on your steering..just do it the right way man
RIP KYOTA
Quotetoyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

yota-tota

hahaha sooo i took it apart today after work and it ya it was a joke BUT on re-assembly i hooked that teflon ring and split SO i just tried to put it back together until i can order the seal (which i hope you can) but i couldn't get the teeth on the input thingy to be in the right phase to mesh with the teeth on the slector shaft....when i put the slector shaft back in it would twist the other piece side ways. After 4 tries and the seal breaking i had enough and left it until tomorrow.

There has to be an easier way to make sure that input shaft is in the right phase because if it moves and turns on you your deffently going to tear that seal.
91 toy truggy on h2 injection, hacked n chopped n locked n SAS'd rolling 36" IROKS........doubler comming soon