Author Topic: Hydro Assist:box and pump mods (Read 338452 times)

superyota · « **Reply #330 on:** Jan 04, 2011, 02:47:07 PM »

Quote from: santa cruz crawler on Jan 04, 2011, 02:43:35 PM

Nice right up by every one who put here knowledge into this
Advancement , but I have a different prob.
My steering wheel bounces back and forth due to the ps box being sloppy
,old idk the miles, any ideas on how to fix this shimmy back and forth on the road will help

By the way I don't have hydro ass. Ifs box and high steer and steering stabali ect
Thanks

start with checking your alignment. mine had a shimmy, i went 1/8th out on the the toe, and its perfect now. some guys go toe in 1/8th, and some go out 1/8th. 1/8th out is what worked for me so thats what i did.

swapped89 · « **Reply #331 on:** Jan 04, 2011, 03:10:46 PM »

mine is also 1/8" toe'd in. has worked great for years

You can buy rebuild kits for your powersteering gear box also. That might help they range from like 25-50$

santa cruz crawler · « **Reply #332 on:** Jan 04, 2011, 05:56:58 PM »

Yeah 1/8 in. So I've do e 1/8 in and 1/8 out and the only thing I can think is the stewing box , because this steering was o. Another truck and it steer fine
I will say the first day I had no problems then it just started getting real bad

I can tell it's the steering box, because when the truck is off, I can move the steering shaft back and forth and there's almost an Inch of nothing

There is no good boxes out here and I have limited funds right now
Plus I just tried to move my tierod in a little on the drivers side and
It won't move But I installed these tie rods were just I stalled 4 months ago and I looked while my girlfriend steer my truck and nothing was wrong

She said " it feels like there's play in the wheel"
So idk. I'm over pissed I just drive 15 mph. But I am ready to take this thing to the
Alignment shop and watch a tweak fix my my problem

I'm just mad cause I no this steering is fine I just think the problem is easy to fix
Please help Thanks. Thanks

85yotapolo · « **Reply #333 on:** Jan 05, 2011, 07:11:11 AM »

Quote from: superyota on Jan 04, 2011, 02:45:14 PM

about 3/8ths on an inch down. be carefull not to go to deep. just keep checking it once you get down a little. better safe than sorry. it will be very obvious when you get to it. usually, the bit will catch a bit right before you get into the vein. hope this helps.

Ima try it and see what happens i guess ill drill slow and go from there...... thanks

Sparkplug · « **Reply #334 on:** Jan 27, 2011, 08:57:55 PM »

Got my assist on, surplus ram, norm setup on toy axle. Stock pump, sotck res, no cooler. Bled works good, Lag isnt bad. When I put it in 4-6 inch rut, it struglles to crush it and turn through the ground, it flat out WONT unless I rev the engine, at which point pump whines and it will power through easily. Do i need to drill my pump out?

superyota · « **Reply #335 on:** Jan 28, 2011, 07:43:44 AM »

Quote from: Sparkplug on Jan 27, 2011, 08:57:55 PM

Got my assist on, surplus ram, norm setup on toy axle. Stock pump, sotck res, no cooler. Bled works good, Lag isnt bad. When I put it in 4-6 inch rut, it struglles to crush it and turn through the ground, it flat out WONT unless I rev the engine, at which point pump whines and it will power through easily. Do i need to drill my pump out?

what size ram are you running? i wouldn't recommend more than a 1.5. any bigger, you'll need a bigger pump. I would be hesitant to tell you to drill out the restrictor on the pump if its whining now. Sometimes drilling it out will make it whine more, but it will probably work better. check to see if your restrictor has been removed from your box incase it hasn't been already.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #336 on:** Jan 28, 2011, 10:42:40 PM »

1.5 surpluscenter ram, where is said restrictor on box at?

4XFlyin · « **Reply #337 on:** Jan 28, 2011, 11:45:02 PM »

Quote from: Sparkplug on Jan 27, 2011, 08:57:55 PM

Got my assist on, surplus ram, norm setup on toy axle. Stock pump, sotck res, no cooler. Bled works good, Lag isnt bad. When I put it in 4-6 inch rut, it struglles to crush it and turn through the ground, it flat out WONT unless I rev the engine, at which point pump whines and it will power through easily. Do i need to drill my pump out?

Have you re-checked to make sure you have enough fluid in you reservoir especially when you are going lock to lock? Check it while someone else is turning the wheel for you. This may cause a squeel.

Quote from the guy that started this thread-
"From what I found, the guys who had a squaling issue after the pump mod were not running a cooler or some kind of additional fluid. When you drill the restrictor with stock capacity fluid, the fluid doesn't have enough time to cool. With my cooler added, my capacity is roughly 2-2.5 qts. You can usually get a decent tranny cooler from a parts store for $30-$40."

You may want to go thru the first few pages of this thread to see how others have handled your situation.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #338 on:** Jan 28, 2011, 11:56:49 PM »

It only squeals when it gets stuffed in a rut and a try to crush it by turning. Otherwise it never makes a noise at all, but i will get it to squeal and have a bud check to see if air is getting in. If that is the case I will add a bigger res.

I have read this entire thread, along with other one, and every one I could find on pirate with hydro assist in the title. No one ever comments back enough to say how strong their hydro is, how much it can push.

If I rev it when its bound real hard, it will crush earth fine, say up to a foot of it, but it squeals, feels smooth tho, just squeals

My fluid never gets hot, this problem is not heat related, maybe possibly air related, or my expectations of hydro assist are too high

superyota · « **Reply #339 on:** Jan 31, 2011, 07:48:15 AM »

Quote from: Sparkplug on Jan 28, 2011, 10:42:40 PM

1.5 surpluscenter ram, where is said restrictor on box at?

the restrictor is on the pressure side of the pump(outlet going to steering box). take the line off, I think its a 14mm, once the line is off, there is a bigger fitting on the box that the line screws into(think it's a 17mm) that also needs to come off. becareful when taking this piece off, there is a spring behind it, you don't want to lose it. once you have that piece off, there is a little bushing looking piece inside with a hole in it that is your restrictor. don't know off the top of my head what to drill it out to. hope this helps.

Sparkplug · « **Reply #340 on:** Feb 02, 2011, 12:10:35 AM »

ah I know of restrictor in pump, I believe your post said on box, i got confused. said look to see if restrictor has been removed from box??

superyota · « **Reply #341 on:** Feb 02, 2011, 07:45:59 AM »

Quote from: Sparkplug on Feb 02, 2011, 12:10:35 AM

ah I know of restrictor in pump, I believe your post said on box, i got confused. said look to see if restrictor has been removed from box??

there is a restrictor in the box, if its a 2nd gen ifs box(3rd gen truck) that must be removed completely. It side under the 10mm allen plug right next to where the box is drilled and tapped on top.
The restrictor in the pump gets drilled out and installed back on(but this is not necessary unless you have lag problems).

Sparkplug · « **Reply #342 on:** Feb 02, 2011, 11:16:51 AM »

eh, I never removed that, mine works fine other than one issue I posted, should I remove it? My box is off my 88 stock, I drilled and tapped it myself, it has like 280k on it.

superyota · « **Reply #343 on:** Feb 02, 2011, 11:32:25 AM »

Quote from: Sparkplug on Feb 02, 2011, 11:16:51 AM

eh, I never removed that, mine works fine other than one issue I posted, should I remove it? My box is off my 88 stock, I drilled and tapped it myself, it has like 280k on it.

yes, the restrictor in the box has to be removed. the 10mm plug is usually a pain to remove. I have always had to weld a nut or bolt to it so it can be removed.

85yotapolo · « **Reply #344 on:** Mar 27, 2011, 12:23:42 AM »

Quote from: freds40 on Apr 21, 2005, 06:38:40 AM

And heres Rick's pics from the same thread showing the work done to the 80 box.

i wanted to tap my box the same way where you did it on far back does it matter what kind of box you have?

i got my kit through sky man, i can take pic and see what u guys think i can tell off hand what it is

85yotapolo · « **Reply #345 on:** Mar 27, 2011, 12:27:51 AM »

Quote from: notyourmomslx450 on May 27, 2009, 07:17:23 AM

Is there any reason the IFS box can't be tapped similarly to the 80 box, rather than tapping directly into the vein? It looks like the basic design of the boxes are the same, only bigger and reverse rotation on the 80 box. If you look at the first two pictures, and compare it to the pics in posts 19 & 17, the "end cap" area looks to be the same design, w/ a seal area (shiny part around the end of the inside of the cavity) and the vein going into the recess at the end where the 80 box is drilled. LMK if that makes sense to anyone other than me. Seems like you'd save alot of worry

pretty much what he said is there a difference??

Sparkplug · « **Reply #346 on:** Mar 27, 2011, 12:31:00 AM »

no, i would not think so, It may make it harder to mount it being in the front, depending on how you do your box and how far forward it is. I like it being in the top, and NOT drilling the other hole where everyone does, instead drilling it towards the rear of the box more in the open, nothing on the front of the box at all. Helps routing lines and mounting it in, and getting it to fit.

yoshaleng · « **Reply #347 on:** Mar 27, 2011, 12:54:11 AM »

Quote from: Sparkplug on Mar 27, 2011, 12:31:00 AM

no, i would not think so, It may make it harder to mount it being in the front, depending on how you do your box and how far forward it is. I like it being in the top, and NOT drilling the other hole where everyone does, instead drilling it towards the rear of the box more in the open, nothing on the front of the box at all. Helps routing lines and mounting it in, and getting it to fit.

X2

I tapped mine on top and in front (toyoda) and when I decided to relocate my gear box and kick my axle forward another 1.5"...I now have to retap my box on the side due lack of space or access to connect hose back on.

85yotapolo · « **Reply #348 on:** Mar 27, 2011, 02:05:08 AM »

Quote from: YosHaleng on Mar 27, 2011, 12:54:11 AM

X2

I tapped mine on top and in front (toyoda) and when I decided to relocate my gear box and kick my axle forward another 1.5"...I now have to retap my box on the side due lack of space or access to connect hose back on.

yeah basically thats what i did my axle moved pretty far forward and i cut the front of my yota "literally made hole" for the box to go in and that front is open and that why i was wondering if i can tap it from there and just run that line down and do other tap on vein...

ill try and take some pic but yeah its moved as far forward as posible ...

85yotapolo · « **Reply #349 on:** Mar 28, 2011, 01:56:25 AM »

ok so i went got tap hope its right one its a 1/4 18 npt tap this is correct??

85yotapolo · « **Reply #350 on:** Mar 29, 2011, 09:20:40 PM »

4XFlyin · « **Reply #351 on:** Mar 31, 2011, 09:23:57 PM »

Quote from: 85yotapolo on Mar 28, 2011, 01:56:25 AM

ok so i went got tap hope its right one its a 1/4 18 npt tap this is correct??

you have the right one

85yotapolo · « **Reply #352 on:** Apr 01, 2011, 08:51:59 AM »

Ok I tapped my box the top hole was ard but I tapped into vein, as I'm putting Ifs box together does it matter which way the pitman shaft goes in, the box has those gears inside so I put it in middle to line up or??

4XFlyin · « **Reply #353 on:** Apr 01, 2011, 06:44:42 PM »

Quote from: 85yotapolo on Apr 01, 2011, 08:51:59 AM

Ok I tapped my box the top hole was ard but I tapped into vein, as I'm putting Ifs box together does it matter which way the pitman shaft goes in, the box has those gears inside so I put it in middle to line up or??
[/quot toothe]

Don't remember exactly. You should line a first tooth with a first. Don't line a first tooth in in between.

85yotapolo · « **Reply #354 on:** Apr 01, 2011, 07:52:39 PM »

That's hat Isis I had the tooth exposed and put it right in kide and put it in I just want to make sure I have the turning radius as I did before and did mess anything up u know

golana · « **Reply #355 on:** Apr 07, 2011, 01:23:44 AM »

gunna do this mod again, but i hope i hit the mark this time haha! last box i did leaked cause i missed center on the top vein by like 1/16" and when i had resistance with steering, i would get a nice stream of fluid shooting out...

ive never seen any boxes with that 10mm allen head bolt... must be a US thing...

85yotapolo · « **Reply #356 on:** Apr 09, 2011, 10:03:39 PM »

Ok tapped my box looks good but!! Fitting on side has little leak so how can I seal it and stop leak, it's leaking just bleeding system can I re tape with more Teflon tape??? Or can I use rtv sealeant?

Or??

Sparkplug · « **Reply #357 on:** Apr 09, 2011, 10:10:07 PM »

you should NOT use teflon tape or anything that can break away and clog a line, NPT seals by the threads. Are the threads tapped deep enough? Mine leaked a tad at first, i tapped deeper, and tightened it down TIGHT, I got the paste that seals lines, it wont clog, and never dries. Just a thought

85yotapolo · « **Reply #358 on:** Apr 09, 2011, 10:25:59 PM »

Ok how far deep can you tighten it down??? Won't it hit??? The inside moving parts

85yotapolo · « **Reply #359 on:** Apr 09, 2011, 10:26:46 PM »

Yeah I tapped the threads deep deep as I can go. As far as tighten it im just worried going to far

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