Hydro Assist:box and pump mods

Started by freds40, April 17, 2005, 03:33:32 PM

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freds40

Ummm. I haven't listened to TOOL in a long time.  :rockingout:

Glad to hear it worked out. Yeah I've been getting an ear full from all my buds. On a good note, I'm looking to get back into a Toy pickup or runner.  :gap:
"between projects"

SLOYOTA808

Awesome thread...gonna give this a stab in under a month...thanks for everyones' input...once again...GREAT THREAD!!!!

waskillywabbit

Quote from: alwayzbroken on November 05, 2005, 07:40:27 PM
A cheap way to get larger fluid capacity is to gather a couple of stock power steering reservoirs, cut the bottom out of one and the top of the other and weld the two together. You will have close to double the capacity, the stock hoses still work and it costs next to nothing assuming you have access to another reservoir. I welded three together but without my 3" body lift I wouldn't be able to close the hood. After I welded them together I was gonna put JB weld around the seams them sand it smooth so it would appear to be one piece but I got lazy and skipped the sanding. Just extra insurance against leaks and I had a couple tubes in my tool box. I'm sure a better looking one can be made but aethetics was not important to me, just it being leak free.

What material are the OEM reservoirs?  I've also read somewhere about someone adding a piece of 3" exhaust pipe in the middle...seems like it was sickfab, but now I can't find it?  :headscratch:

:yupyup:

KYOTA

search pirate its there I remember seeing it while doing all my homework

waskillywabbit

Quote from: KYOTA on December 04, 2005, 07:54:39 PM
search pirate its there I remember seeing it while doing all my homework


I found this on Pirate.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271149&highlight=reservoir

I'll find a couple at a boneyard and see about brazing them together.  It seems that the larger reservoir is a must.

:yupyup:

KYOTA


alwayzbroken

Are you guys running the stock power steering cooler tube that runs behind the grille?
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

waskillywabbit

Quote from: alwayzbroken on December 06, 2005, 07:27:22 AM
Are you guys running the stock power steering cooler tube that runs behind the grille?

I got a tube/fin tranny cooler off Summit for like $50 shipped...it is about 12" x 12" or so.  Just put it in the loop where the OEM one was...seems to work fine thus far.  Found another OEM reservoir today to make taller...and that should fix my cavitation issue and some new seals to fix the suction port leak.   :hammerhead:

:yupyup:

KYOTA


freds40

I ran my 10x16 tranny cooler in line on the return side. Works great.
"between projects"

FatAzzRunner

Quote from: freds40 on September 06, 2005, 11:23:38 PM
Not too bad but you'd need some 1/2" NPT-3/8 (IIRC) barbed nipples as the cooler should be plumbed into the return hose.

Probablly just missed it but do you have the part number on these???

Thanks

85 Runner, 5" All-Pro Extreme Lift, Complete Marlin T-Case with new TS 4.7 gears, Super Birfields(Longfields), 5:29's, Detroited front, Spooled rear, 36" TSL's, Bikini top.

Yes, Livin in Kansas sucks azz!!

synwars

Thanks Freds40 & Kyota, makes life easier you guys doing all the work. :thumbs: I wouldn't be attempting this without this thread!!! Collecting all my parts and in a couple weeks, install time!!!

Have you guys thought of running steel braided lines just in case something snags it, like say a branch or something? Where we crawl, there are a lot of trees, and some are fallen from storms and such, so its not uncommon to drag a couple branches in the front axle. :dunno: Or am I just being overly paranoid? I suppose it would be worth it then to carry a couple plugs just in case eh? Plug it up in case you bust one open?

Sammy.
"Don't let common sense stop you..."

Build up thread:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=11425.0

KEEP IT CLEAN PEOPLE!!! :bat:

freds40

My thought on that is rubber hose would rip where as the steel braided would possibly hold longer than the threads in the box. Of course for the price of custom length steel braided, you could probably have a few sets of spare hoses @ $5-$6 a piece. Good luck with the swap, you'll like the results.  :yesnod:
"between projects"

Non Urban

Wanted to thank you for the great post.  Heres a link to how I increased my res cap.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=437566

KYOTA

Quote from: Non Urban on January 29, 2006, 08:23:09 PM
Wanted to thank you for the great post.  Heres a link to how I increased my res cap.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=437566


nice writeup thanks for adding your input to the thread  :beer:

Brendan- I'm moving this and the HAOTC thread into 79-95 tech

TNToy

Just a thought, but make sure you guys are filling your systems with ATF where required. Running actual power steering fluid in a system desigend for ATF ususally Results in some serious issues with seals leaking down the road.

I'm fairly sure most Toyota P/S systems require ATF, not P/S fluid.

Tice

Quote from: TNToy on February 09, 2006, 08:04:15 AM
Just a thought, but make sure you guys are filling your systems with ATF where required. Running actual power steering fluid in a system desigend for ATF ususally Results in some serious issues with seals leaking down the road.

I'm fairly sure most Toyota P/S systems require ATF, not P/S fluid.

Do you happen to have a Toy manual on hand to check this? :headscratch:
I don't need a winch, I wheel a TOYOTA!!!!!!!


www.wheelingarizona.com

alwayzbroken

I am curious as well. If he is right I will need to drain mine for sure.  ???
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

freds40

Don't remember who I discussed this with when I set mine up but we came to the conclusion that PS fluid was the way to go. That's what I always ran in the system even prior to the mods and my box was tight as can be when sold.
"between projects"

GregBennett

#109
My 1985 Factory Toyota Manual says use ATF Dexron or Dexron II.

My 1994 Factory Toyota Manual says the samething - ATF Dexron or Dexron II.

My Haynes Manual says the same.
Greg

1. 1999 4Runner - Wide FJ62 Front - FZJ80 Rear - Beater!
2. 2001 Tundra - Stock - FJ80 Wheels - DD!

You can lose a lot of money chasing women, but you'll never lose women chasing money.

Renaud33

I am almost ready to start reassembling my box.  There is very little information on reassembly.  Maybe I missed it.   :dunno:  What do I need to do to ensure that I have it back together correctly??  I am speaking in terms of the splines lining up as they were when everything was removed.

Thanks,
Kurt

alwayzbroken

Quote from: Renaud33 on February 22, 2006, 11:10:42 AM
I am almost ready to start reassembling my box.  There is very little information on reassembly.  Maybe I missed it.   :dunno:  What do I need to do to ensure that I have it back together correctly??  I am speaking in terms of the splines lining up as they were when everything was removed.

Thanks,
Kurt

Kurt did you get it back together? How does it work?
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

Renaud33

Quote from: alwayzbroken on March 05, 2006, 01:37:50 PM
Kurt did you get it back together? How does it work?
I got it back together.  I think I got it lined up correctly.  If not it should be very close.  I don't have my hydro installed.  I will email you an update.

alwayzbroken

I got a different reservoir made. I replaced my conglomeration of 3 tanks welded together with one tank split in half and a 4" section of 3.5" exhaust pipe welded in place. The tank I made first must have restricted the flow with the stock baffling still in place as the pump still cavitated.

3.5" exhaust pipe is about 10$ a foot where I am at and must be ordered, but I discovered that the outer casing of most cheap glasspack mufflers is 3.5" pipe. If you chop the ends of the muffler off, the inside will slide right out leaving the round outer 3.5" pipe. The diameter of the stock tank is damn near 3.5" and with a little work the pipe can be slide into the top but the bottom must be butted up against the exhaust pipe then welded. This is a very cheap and easy setup if you need more fluid capacity.
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

AJ Johnson

one thing to add to this thread... When drilling your box, put a magnet, weather it be a pen type or  whatever on the backside of where you are drilling. It will save time in cleanup, cause the magnet will gather the chips.

ddog87

Quote from: freds40 on April 17, 2005, 04:28:41 PM
Once out, turn the restrictor upside down on a hard surface and tap a couple of times. A bushing will fall out. Now drill the orifice in the restrictor out to 13/64 and then bolt it back together.
Stupid question, do you put the bushing back in??? thanks

freds40

Yup. Sorry, always find another detail I left out.
"between projects"

oz31p

is this to drive at 80 down the freeway??

just seems a little scary
JUST THE TIP, JUST FOR A SECOND, JUST TO SEE HOW IT FEELS.

FatAzzRunner

I wouldnt do 80 down the freeway with mine.

I just finished mine recently and going 40 on the street with 5 psi in the tires felt safe as before but today I aired up to 36 psi and just went around my neighborhood and it felt MUCH looser and like it MAY be unsafe at highway speeds

just my .02

85 Runner, 5" All-Pro Extreme Lift, Complete Marlin T-Case with new TS 4.7 gears, Super Birfields(Longfields), 5:29's, Detroited front, Spooled rear, 36" TSL's, Bikini top.

Yes, Livin in Kansas sucks azz!!

freds40

I've been thinking about this a bit lately as I've had more people ask me about it. I've been thinking that when the orrifice is opened up, it makes the system extremely responsive. I'm thinking that if you opened it up, say half of the amount I originally did, it "should" be a decent balance between responsiveness and sluggishness. I no longer run a Toy box and pump, otherwise I'd find a replacement orrifice and try stepping up in size until I got the right balance. For mine, I ran my SXs @ 15 and would do 40-50 regularly. It was awesome on the trail so I never put much thought into better street ability.
"between projects"