Topic: a/c repair after de-smog on 83 22r

[ameadows77]

I have an 83 SR5 pickup with a 22R and I want to get the a/c working.

- de-smogged the motor replaced aisin carb with Weber 32/36
- air injection deleted and plugs installed on exhaust manifold
- all vacuum lines removed except the 1 vacuum advance for the distributor and the one for the brake booster
- egr and egr cooler deleted and block-off plates installed on both
- front charcoal cansiter removed
- vacuum switch and idle up switch are present but not hooked up

I know the idle up switch (solenoid?) is part of the a/c system so the motor doesn't choke down at idle with increased strain from the compressor running.

Am I able to use the a/c without any of the factory emissions stuff hooked up? Will it bog down too much with not having the idle up switch or anything in tact?

Everything else regarding a/c is present - compressor/condensor/switch in the cab/etc - and the switch in the cab works because I can hear the relay clicking. The a/c has likely not worked in at least several years but it gets hot where I live so I'm hoping I can get it working.

[Gnarly4X]

Hey ameadows77…

I would get my truck to a qualified AC shop to have them check everything out and get the correct refrigerant installed.

It may have to be converted from the old R-12 to the newer refrigerant R-134a required by law.

I would not run the compressor until the refrigerant with lubrication is in the system.

The idle will drop about 200+ RPMs when the compressor comes on if the system properly charged.  During the summer months here in AZ, I just ran the idle around 950.

On my 85 22R I ran wires to a switch to the inside of the cab from the compressor clutch wire so I could push the AC switch in on the dash, and flip the switch to turn OFF the AC compressor. 

That would raise my idle about 300 RPM… perfect for rock crawling with a 5-speed.

I don’t believe there is any emissions connected the AC system on a 1983?

Gnarls.

[ameadows77 [OP]]

Hey ameadows77…

I would get my truck to a qualified AC shop to have them check everything out and get the correct refrigerant installed.

It may have to be converted from the old R-12 to the newer refrigerant R-134a required by law.

I would not run the compressor until the refrigerant with lubrication is in the system.

The idle will drop about 200+ RPMs when the compressor comes on if the system properly charged.  During the summer months here in AZ, I just ran the idle around 950.

On my 85 22R is ran wires to a switch to the inside of the cab from the compressor clutch wire so I could push the AC switch in on the dash, and flip the switch to turn OFF the AC compressor. 

That would raise my idle about 300 RPM… perfect for rock crawling with a 5-speed.

I don’t believe there is any emissions connected the AC system on a 1983?

Gnarls.

thank you, I figured it would need to be updated to 134a but not really sure how much money I want to put towards the a/c issue. I like the heat and don't mind just rolling the windows down but the defrost alone makes me want to get it fixed. Lots of warm, humid, rainy days down south and the windows fog up quick.

I don't think there is any emissions stuff related to the a/c as you mentioned but when it still had the aisin carb and the nest of vacuum lines they were routed to the vacuum switch and idle up solenoid on the passenger fenderwell. If it's not necessary to use those I will just work around them and turn off the a/c if I'm stopped and idling.

Side question regarding the heater - when I have the heat on, only the foot vents and the side vents blow hot air. the 2 center vents right in the middle by the shifter still blow cold outside air. Is this a normal feature to keep fresh air flow while the heat is on? Or do I have a linkage and redirect door messed up somewhere?

[Gnarly4X]

Side question regarding the heater - when I have the heat on, only the foot vents and the side vents blow hot air. the 2 center vents right in the middle by the shifter still blow cold outside air. Is this a normal feature to keep fresh air flow while the heat is on? Or do I have a linkage and redirect door messed up somewhere?

If there is cold air coming while you have the Cool/Heat slider to WARM, then the top Vent slider is on Bi-Level - which allow outside unheated air into the top vents and heated air is directed to the bottom floor vents. If you have the top lever set at HEAT, and still have cold air coming in, I think the cables are out of adjustment on the top lever and possibly stuck on Bi-Level.

Gnarls.

[ameadows77 [OP]]

If there is cold air coming while you have the Cool/Heat slider to WARM, then the top Vent slider is on Bi-Level - which allow outside unheated air into the top vents and heated air is directed to the bottom floor vents. If you have the top lever set at HEAT, and still have cold air coming in, I think the cables are out of adjustment on the top lever and possibly stuck on Bi-Level.

Interesting, sounds like I have an issue to track down. I might be misremembering what heat setting I had it on but won't be able to verify for another month or so