Author Topic: Pictures and Advice for Trans Tunnel Repair After Dual Case Install  (Read 808 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

calux

  • Online Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 93
  • Posts: 32
  • Member since Aug '20
  • Crawling with Marlin
    • View Profile
Just finishing installing duals with a Radesigns triple-stick in an 85 Surf.  It was the final big piece in an 18 month build and I'll admit I got impatient and hacked out some (small amount but it ain't pretty) of the trans tunnel to get everything to fit.  Ended up cutting out part of the sheet metal where the u-shaped brace that holds the center console to the floor screws in.  Yes I'm a big dumba**  :snare:  Additionally, the triple-stick linkage pokes out above the factory tunnel cutout by roughly 3/4".  It's not terrible but it's enough that just bending the shifter linkage down won't solve it alone.  I don't have a body lift, and putting one on is an absolute last resort.

Who else has performed minor patching in a situation like this on a first-gen Surf/4Runner?  If you have, do you have pictures or advice you'd be willing to share?  My goal is to patch over the cases/linkage and button everything back up such that the shifter baseplates are accessible in the future and the factory console and plastic shifter bezel are reused and look (reasonably) factory and unmolested?

I've been searching the forum (and quite a bit on Pirate) and it seems like there are two groups of people:  A)folks that have a bodylift or some sort of magical power and didn't cut anything at all, or B)folks who cut the whole tunnel out and rebuilt one from scratch.  I looked at the Marlin gallery of dual-case/triple stick setups and they all look awesome but most just show the finished product and not the how-to.  Any help especially pictures would be greatly appreciated, thanks :beer:


Snowtoy

  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 1001
  • Male Posts: 2,521
  • Member since Sep '03
    • View Profile
Chances are, any fix others have done won't be the same for you, if you can post some pics of what you are working with now, I am sure some of us could give you a few ideas.

Off the top of my head, you could probably make a good patch, using cardboard to make a template out of that your could then transfer to sheet metal, then use rivet nuts to fasten the sheet metal cover to the trans tunnel, allowing you to remove it to access the shifters if when needed. 

Another idea, if you don't want to work with sheet metal, would be to make a cover out of fiberglass, and attach it the same way.  Could use thin cardboard, like a cereal box, that you tape down to the trans cover, lay fiberglass matting over it, cover in resin, repeat a few times, then remove the cardboard when cured.  I made a dash pod for some gauges using that method.
« Last Edit: Nov 05, 2020, 06:17:34 PM by Snowtoy »
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

helipilot77

  • Offline The 1.5K Club
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 947
  • Male Posts: 1,650
  • Member since Jul '12
  • Seattle, WA
    • View Profile
    • My build thread
I donít have any pictures of it but I helped Squadoosh with his Radesigns install on his 85í 4Runner. I canít remember if he ended up putting the console back in. Iím guessing not. We did end up hacking up the tunnel and never did seal it up very well.
On my build which you might have seen the pictures of in The Triple stick gallery with the maroon interior, I built my own triple stick shifter that didnít require any body lift. I think there are pictures in my build thread, but it wonít do you much good. I would make a box to cover it with sheet metal then screw it down with sheet metal screws.

Here are the pictures of mine.
« Last Edit: Nov 05, 2020, 07:00:29 PM by helipilot77 »
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
 & custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100547.0
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/i

calux [OP]

  • Online Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 93
  • Posts: 32
  • Member since Aug '20
  • Crawling with Marlin
    • View Profile
Chances are, any fix others have done won't be the same for you, if you can post some pics of what you are working with now, I am sure some of us could give you a few ideas.

Off the top of my head, you could probably make a good patch, using cardboard to make a template out of that your could then transfer to sheet metal, then use rivet nuts to fasten the sheet metal cover to the trans tunnel, allowing you to remove it to access the shifters if when needed. 

Another idea, if you don't want to work with sheet metal, would be to make a cover out of fiberglass, and attach it the same way.  Could use thin cardboard, like a cereal box, that you tape down to the trans cover, lay fiberglass matting over it, cover in resin, repeat a few times, then remove the cardboard when cured.  I made a dash pod for some gauges using that method.


I donít have any pictures of it but I helped Squadoosh with his Radesigns install on his 85í 4Runner. I canít remember if he ended up putting the console back in. Iím guessing not. We did end up hacking up the tunnel and never did seal it up very well.
On my build which you might have seen the pictures of in The Triple stick gallery with the maroon interior, I built my own triple stick shifter that didnít require any body lift. I think there are pictures in my build thread, but it wonít do you much good. I would make a box to cover it with sheet metal then screw it down with sheet metal screws.

Here are the pictures of mine.

that home-brew triple stick setup is awesome; i had thought about doing fiberglass but I think im gonna give it a go with sheetmetal since i already have it laying around.  I dont have any good pictures of the situation but ill try to take some tonight and post shortly.

what did you guys do for heat/sound shielding? 


helipilot77

  • Offline The 1.5K Club
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 947
  • Male Posts: 1,650
  • Member since Jul '12
  • Seattle, WA
    • View Profile
    • My build thread
what did you guys do for heat/sound shielding? 

Carpet :dunno:
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
 & custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100547.0
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/i

Snowtoy

  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 1001
  • Male Posts: 2,521
  • Member since Sep '03
    • View Profile
Quote
what did you guys do for heat/sound shielding?
I was able to reuse the oem carpet and insulation, then made my own center console.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

helipilot77

  • Offline The 1.5K Club
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 947
  • Male Posts: 1,650
  • Member since Jul '12
  • Seattle, WA
    • View Profile
    • My build thread
My shifter trim has since cracked from age. I am planning to fabricate a replacement. Not sure yet if I'll use fiberglass or aluminum. I need to incorporate some gauges in mine as well as maybe a cup holder.
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
 & custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100547.0
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/i

calux [OP]

  • Online Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 93
  • Posts: 32
  • Member since Aug '20
  • Crawling with Marlin
    • View Profile
It seems like quite a few people have had success with Dynamat; there's also this stuff:  https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-050503-Tunnel-Shield/dp/B000CEO5W8

In any event, it sounds like the way to go is make a rough template with cardboard, cut and shape to fit the profile you want, then replicate with sheet stock and bend/weld accordingly. 

Thinking about future access to the top of the cases, did you guys just cut a square out of your new tunnel material and screw in an access panel or something?

Thanks again for the input/help guys, this is truly the last big obstacle before this build is done and id hate to jack it up after all the work that's gone in so far

calux [OP]

  • Online Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 93
  • Posts: 32
  • Member since Aug '20
  • Crawling with Marlin
    • View Profile
here's a picture of the cutout and linkage, thinking the sheetmetal-box solution is the best one, again if anyone has pictures of a similar fix they've done in the past I'd be stoked to see it,

Snowtoy

  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 1001
  • Male Posts: 2,521
  • Member since Sep '03
    • View Profile
Yikes, kind of the Alien version of dual cases. :laugh:

I would start with by cutting a uniform section around the opening to start with, then start by making and shaping a sheet metal base.  From there figure out how you want to make your shifter cover/center console. 
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

calux [OP]

  • Online Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 93
  • Posts: 32
  • Member since Aug '20
  • Crawling with Marlin
    • View Profile
Yikes, kind of the Alien version of dual cases. :laugh:

I would start with by cutting a uniform section around the opening to start with, then start by making and shaping a sheet metal base.  From there figure out how you want to make your shifter cover/center console.

man i had been going slowly, carefully, and kept the whole build pretty clean for 17.5 months, then the process of installing these duals by myself broke me and now the tunnel looks like a giant rat got to it (or an alien chestburster fair enough  :D)

I'm going to tackle this bit by bit and take a bunch of pictures to document how it gets fixed, and then post all the pictures and the process so that anyone who runs into this issue can see how a dumba** approached it.  goal is to patch with sheet stock, create an access hatch for future oil refill/adjustments, and then use the stock console and shifter bezel.

Snowtoy

  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 1001
  • Male Posts: 2,521
  • Member since Sep '03
    • View Profile
You're supposed to take your frustrations out verbally when working on cars, that's what four letter words are for, and the more your can string together in a row, the better.

Don't be to hard on yourself, it looks like you did the best you could under the circumstance, and it all be covered when done.  At least you know that that isn't what finished is supposed to look like.  I have seen worse, like half doors where the guy took a sawsall to the door skins, and filled the cavity with expandable foam.

What kind of told do you have too work with?  If you have an air compressor, or can borrow one, a body saw will make short work of the floor.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

helipilot77

  • Offline The 1.5K Club
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 947
  • Male Posts: 1,650
  • Member since Jul '12
  • Seattle, WA
    • View Profile
    • My build thread
I havenít made any access for mine but wish I had. I have had occasion to rip it apart on the trail once. I was able to fix it in two hours, but it was a pain that would have been much easier with a access panel. It would be nice to go to the wrecking yard and cut out a tunnel and make a panel. Mine was originally for an auto trans so I had to make something that looked correct without having a base to go off of.
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
 & custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100547.0
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/i

calux [OP]

  • Online Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 93
  • Posts: 32
  • Member since Aug '20
  • Crawling with Marlin
    • View Profile
I've been working on this for the past few days when I can find time.  I realized I don't have the tools (or experience) to shape sheet steel without making it look completely awful.  Also, the patch had to be as low-profile as possible to allow the stock console and plastic trim to fit, but it also needed to clear the triple-shifter tabs on the rear case without rubbing.  As ridiculous as it sounds, I settled on sheet copper.  It's easy to form by hand, it doesn't rust, and if you insulate the connection between the patch and tunnel there shouldn't be too much (or hopefully any) galvanic corrosion.  Also, this isn't a huge hole so I hope patching with copper doesn't present a structural issue.

I started by cutting and shaping 4"x10" sheets to hug the tunnel contours, then test-fit everything with the console and plastic shifter-surround to make sure it cleared, then drilled the holes and secured it in place with copper pop-rivets (traditional fasteners weren't a great option without a lot more headache).  I painted the underside of the patch pieces and the top of the tunnel to help insulate the copper from the steel, then used blue liquid gasket to add another layer of insulation.  Now that it's riveted in I'm going to cut an access hatch on the top of the first plate and secure it with stainless screws or something else that can be removed if need be.  Then I'm going to use a silicone sealant to fill in the gap between the patch plates and the tunnel when everything is all set in place, and then finally I'll put peel-and-stick insulation tape over everything to keep the heat out.  Also going to wire brush the excess gasket material away to make it look a little cleaner.

Comments and criticism welcome, I know it's an ugly solution but I think it'll hold (and it'll be covered up by all the stock plastic and carpet).  The mockup photos make the two plates look a little loose, but the fit will be tightened up once they're riveted down and gasketed.  If anyone cares to see how this dumpster fire ends I'll post more pics once the second patch plate is in and everything is buttoned up.  I realize this is kind of a ridiculous solution but I couldn't see another way without paying someone an arm and a leg to do it (all available arms and legs have already been used as payment on the rest of the build). 
« Last Edit: Dec 01, 2020, 10:29:32 AM by calux »

Snowtoy

  • Offline The 2.5K Group
  • ****
  • Turtle Points: 1001
  • Male Posts: 2,521
  • Member since Sep '03
    • View Profile
Given your inexperience and lack of tools, the copper sheet was a smart solution, you also now have a template, if you decide you want/need it to be made out of sheet metal in the future.

To make it one solid piece, and thicker, you could pull it off and cover it with spray/roll-on bed liner, the bed liner should prevent any issues with bimetallic corrosion.

Another solution, if this one doesn't work long term, would be to cut out that section of floor a little larger than the size hole you have now  from a rig at a wrecking yard, and glue it over the opening.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

calux [OP]

  • Online Rock Crawl'n
  • **
  • Turtle Points: 93
  • Posts: 32
  • Member since Aug '20
  • Crawling with Marlin
    • View Profile
Patch is complete; seams were sealed with high-temp silicone and the whole thing was covered with Frostking pipe tape to keep the heat/condensation off the wiring that will sit on top (below the center console).  Not very proud about the appearance but the whole thing cost about $40 and it should remain weathertight for a quite a while.

The little access panel on top of the patch was secured with push-in body-panel fasteners, slightly oversized for the hole so they'll stay in place; they can be removed by prying up with a screwdriver but with any luck that won't have to happen for a long time.  After everything dries the console and shifter surround are going back on.

Hope this helps others in a similar situation, if not I hope the goofiness of this solution provided some entertainment  :smokin:


 
 
 
 
 

Related Topics

24 Replies
8844 Views
Last post Dec 31, 2004, 09:24:25 AM
by PinkToyota
9 Replies
2720 Views
Last post Jun 08, 2005, 06:33:00 AM
by derek
2 Replies
1525 Views
Last post Mar 05, 2009, 09:19:47 PM
by DTB
0 Replies
1174 Views
Last post Feb 28, 2011, 07:46:05 PM
by OVRAROK
9 Replies
2121 Views
Last post Jul 17, 2015, 12:36:36 PM
by TheeMikeB