Topic: My First Gen Hilux RHD w/ Stuff - A DD-ish Build

[the_white_shadow]

Disclaimer: This is going to be a slooooowwwwwww build with a lot of figuring out.

I picked up an '80 first gen truck that a guy imported from Japan 20+ years ago after he was stationed there. As it was in Japan for all the years, the cab has its fair share of rust. (Ill get more into that later). The gentleman purchased new OEM sheetmetal to replace the rust, ie new bed, doors, fenders, hood, etc. The truck came with a buick 231 swapped in, w56, and supposed 4.88s in the axles.

Plan is as follows:
1uz to r150f/151f 5-Speed to a Single 23-spline Case (Using a Marlin adapter)
       - Reseal of the entire engine
       - New starter/timing belt/water pump/etc
       - AC (Must have here is TX)
       - Headers/Exhaust upgrades (Possible boost later)
       - Sc400 oil pan swap for rear sump
Fj80 axles with 4.10s (Or keep and widen stock axles, ie IFS hub swap, and IFS rear)
Radius Arms and Coilovers up front with 57" Fords in the rear
37" Toyo or Nitto MTs on FJ Cruiser Steelies
Fix and repair the rust in the cab, new paint, Sr5 stripe package
NO BODY LIFT

-  $600  -  1981 RHD First gen truck with lots of spare parts
+ $650  -  Sold the Buick 231, AA adapter to the L50, and the stock t-case
+ $250  -  Sold a set of doors, a grille, rear fender flares, factory emblems
-  $700  -  1999 GS400 parts car for the 1uz, wiring harness, auto bell housing, etc
+ $200  -  Sold the VIP style coilovers that came on the GS400
+ $35    -  Sold the rear door weather stripping off the GS400
-  $141  -  RHD Toyota Surf IFS box from EBAY
-  $200  -  '89 4runner chassis for the r150f, ifs rear, etc
+ $750    -  Sold some D60 parts i had lying aroung
-  $20  -  2uz lower timing cover to replace the broken one
-  $117.25  -  2uz Tundra Ebay headers (cheap enough to try out)
-  $420.18  -  R150 to Lexus Bellhousing adapter plate
-  $90  -  SC430 exhaust manifolds (in case the tundra headers dont work out)
-  $264  -  Inchworm R150f adapter to Lexus bellhousing
+ $36  -  Sold Warn IFS locking hubs
-  $40  -  Low Range Offroad Frenched leaf spring hangers
-  $304  -  New FJ Cruiser spare wheels from EBAY
-  $64  -  FROR Crossmember center section
_____________________________________________________________
- $1021.43   -  Total spent on the truck

Pics of when it got dropped off:




Powerful Buick 231






Bed full of parts




Pulled the 231 and sold it all to pick up a gently wrecked '99 GS400 for the 1uz.


Pulled the 1uz and powerwashed it.


Picked up a set of free 37s for mockup purposes. This is planned ride height.


This is what a straight piped Gs400 sounds like. Apparently it was owned by the Vape King of Houston himself and dropped ViP style.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dmQKe5XRZtGL1kNb2

Above is where it sits as i collect and do some trading for new parts.  Im going to get the toyotav8swap.com adapter to use the 1uz auto bellhousing to r15xf trans. I need to get the cab blasted one day and a figure out the radius arm setup. (Probably ruffstuff and some Accutune coilovers). I still need to figure out the wiring.

First step is to cut the frame off at the first cab body mount and widen it to fit the massively wide engine between the frame rails. Hopefully this will give me more room for exhaust. Ill be running a surf IFS rhd box to do a similar hi-steer setup to whats is offered here.

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

The plan is to keep this all Toyota. That means more $$$, but also more awesomeness IMO. Ive done the whole LSX first gen stuff, so this one is going to be more of a driver.

Im picking up an 89 4runner chassis on Friday that has the r150f i need, an IFS rear end, IF front hubs, etc. Looks like ill run mini truck axles for the time being. 

[helipilot77]

  subscribed. I love the plan for this build. You have your work cut out for you especially finding JDM parts for something as old as this.

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

Oh I know. The guy i bought it from gave me so many new JDM parts that i have a pretty good start. But yeah, some of the stuff is going to be hard. Good thing i have about 4 first gen trucks in various degree of part out to ravage for OEM parts.

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

Im going to try and keep a running total of expenses i have on this truck. See OP.

[redneckcustoms13]

I like this build. I really like your ls powered first gen. Would kill to have one like that. This one will have its appeal to all of us Toyota appreciative owners. Dedication to keeping all tyoda is awesome!

[H8PVMNT]

What size swampers are on that grey 1st gen in the fender picture?

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

What size swampers are on that grey 1st gen in the fender picture?

Those are 33x9.50s SX2s that i got off of interco's blem page. Thats the deer lease ride.

[H8PVMNT]

I need some fresh pizza cutters for my '80 this year I think maybe that's a good candidate.

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

I had to add a little color to the deer lease truck. Blends in pretty well actually.

[LittleSteve]

8", 37's and uz? fair brave... but if its more of a street rig it should be fine.
id have kept the auto....

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

8", 37's and uz? fair brave... but if its more of a street rig it should be fine.
id have kept the auto....

Thanks for warning. I think an 8" can handle 300hp on the street. Not wheeling this one. I have another rig for that. Autos are for wimps. Lol. I've always wanted to see what it would be like to shift with my left hand.

[helipilot77]

8", 37's and uz? fair brave... but if its more of a street rig it should be fine.
id have kept the auto....

I’d have to agree. I went through several 8” r&p’s with the v-8 I had in my 85’. I like the idea about the FJ-80 axles though.

Autos are for wimps.

 

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

I'm not crawling this one. It will be fine.

[blackdiamond]

Based on recent forum build I'd think long a hard about the advice given on this forum.  It could end up hurting your wallet and ability to use the project.  Looks like a fun one for sure!

Anytime I see someone say that it'll be ok because of "x" it raises a red flag for me.  If you have to justify the decision to the experienced forum members I would keep your eyes and ears open.

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

Thanks for the words of wisdom.

I think some of y'all should take a look at some of the other trucks ive built. This isn't my first rodeo. Just my first time using a UZ platform.

[LittleSteve]

 

when will they learn?

[LittleSteve]

Check out Akina Motorsports for the manual conversion, a much slicker setup than a bellhousing adapter and modified flywheels.
http://www.akinamotorsportz.com/1jz-2jz-w58-bell-housing/jbumm8nnx7it6tql32n1mi7s4m39u0

Motor mount plates are available as a laser cut kit from a guy in the UK.

Exhaust flanges are available laser cut in stainless and mild from a different guy in the UK.

Oil pan flanges are available laser cut in alu or mild steel from a guy in the UK.

There is also an oil filter adapter kit that allows you to relocate the oil filter from a guy in the UK

If you plan on boosting i would advise a supercharger setup, I would advise that a turbo set up is way to much work and hassle as there is naff all space in a first gen. A eaton super charger off a Jaguar (will be a generic Eaton part number and available anywhere, if not there cheap over here and i can find you one) fits nicely in place of the intake plenum and is easily driven by the existing accessory belt.
Also you will need to procure an ECU/Engine Management system that will continue to run the VVTi a well as be programmable, or else why fit a VVti motor at all. I would keep the Catalysts and the closed loop OBD to make your life less hateful.
If you do decide to go boosted, consider a first gen UZ short motor as the rods and pistons are stronger and will have a slightly lower compression ratio.

Have the starter motor serviced whilst you have the motor apart or be prepared to fit a good quality new one.
Timing belts are easy as long as you are aware of front and rear and left and right, that is all im saying, !!!!!!!!!!FIT A GENUINE BELT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I should probably do a write up about that..

UZ's dont go wrong and are one of the most reliable motors Toyota has ever made, so please dont skimp out on parts. if you need anything that you cant get or is a head scratcher let me know and i will do my best to help.

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

Thanks for the good info LittleSteve.

Some thoughts on your suggestions:

I checked out the Akina bellhousing kit in the link, but it seems like it only fits 96+ R150s. I just picked up a R150f from an 89 4runner so it looks like i would have to get this version of their kit http://www.akinamotorsportz.com/1jz-2jz-w58-bell-housing/1uz-r154-bell-housing-clutch-kit-combo
I do like how their kit comes with a new clutch setup.

I was leaning towards the adapter plate kit from here http://www.1uzfeswapkit.com/product.sc?productId=40&categoryId=7
I already have the bell from the 1uz auto. I like the hydraulic throw out over the clutch fork/slave cylinder route. No clutch kit is included, but a 1200lb kit from marlin for the 89 4runner will work and with that cost added in, the price comparison between the two kits are pretty much a wash.

Ill check out the motor mount plates. I made a template yesterday and was about to start cutting plates, but if the price is right with these UK plates i may just use those and not waste my time.

I dont plan on using the GS400 exhaust manifolds. I actually had to cut one up just to get access to the flange bolts. Plus they look like the worst flowing manifolds i have ever seen. Toyota really dropped the ball there. I have been checking out header options on EBay and came across some cheap options (sub-$150) for the 4.7l tundra/sequoias. Based on reviews from other sites, they dont really seem to be a bad option. Only recommendation is to use OEM tundra gaskets.

My plan to boost will come later, and if i do boost, it will be a supercharger setup. As you mentioned, there is next to no room for a turbo kit in a first gen and a turbo manifold would pretty much kill my dream for AC. I already have this engine so switching to an earlier version probably isnt likely. If i do stay stock (no boost), is a new ECU needed or will the stock one work?

Starter will be replaced while i have the intake off for powercoating. I plan on taking the time to reseal the engine with new gaskets at the same time. (ill leave the heads gaskets alone). The previous owner couldnt tell me when the last timing belt job was done, so thats on the list as well. Ill use Aisin parts for that one as i know the quality that comes from them.

I am sure i will have plenty of questions on the UZ side of things, so thanks for the help in advance.

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

As i mentioned in a previous post, i picked up an 89 4runner chassis on Friday. It came with a few pieces to the puzzle.


The exhaust was a thing of beauty. Apparently it had a diesel VW engine swapped in and the previous owner ran individual exhaust tubes for each cylinder all the way back to a single muffler. It was ghetto.

The main reason i bought the chassis was for the r150f. It shifts great and the fluid was nice and clean.


After a couple of hours i had everything stripped off that i needed for the build or that i could sell.


All the parts on the table. Rear axle has 4.30s in it. Im not sure what axle gear ratio would be the best with setup. Axles under the truck now supposedly have 4.88s, but i fear that may be too low with the 1uz. So i have options now at least.


For shits and giggles, i test fit the engine in the truck. It fit pretty well actually. I was thinking the frame rails were going to be too narrow, but i think i can get away without having to build a new front frame section. Exhaust should fit, and maybe even the AC. Steering will be fun due to the head being partially in the way, but i think if i offset it some to the passenger side i can get it to work. My RHD box from the UK is coming in any day, so i can mock that up and see what im working with.

Some pics:




Might even fit under the hood without a body lift. My goal is to not have one at all.

[LittleSteve]

Ill get back to you when i have a real computer to work with.

Its not up to me, however i would still go the Akina route, its a much more complete package. all you need to check is the length of the input, which differs between R151, R150 and R154 which the kits are designed for. I like the fact the slave cylinder is on the outside of the bellhousing as per factory, if it cacks itself you can change it without pulling the trans out, also makes it a lot easier to bleed in the first place. There is also a forged fork you can fit to take any worry out of destroying the pressed steel one. I also prefer the fact that there is no spacers behind the flywheel which is incidentally a direct fit unlike the modificated 3VZ-FE fly from uzfeswapkits.
Anyways its up to you, if you do use the uzfeswapkit then i would drill and tap the bellhousing to accept 10x1mm bulkhead fittings and hardpipe inside the bellhousing and use the stainless hoses outside the bellhousing, it makes for a much neater and secure job. I have bulkheads in stock if you need them.

The engine mount plates are $46.00 and come with cap head bolts

Check out the LS400 manifolds they are supposed to be the best for type and fit.

If you need a radiator i know one from a 1kzte 4 runner is a direct fit with the outlets in the right place. Ask Helipilot77 how he got hold of his for his dizzle conversion.

anything else i can help with let me know.


 

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

Not many good reviews of the Akina Motorsports machining quality. In the 1uzfeswapkits directions it says to not use any flywheel spacers. I do like the idea of using bulkhead connectors at the bell.

[redneckcustoms13]

If littlesteve has put his hands on it and approves of it i would run it. The man is a good machinist and knows quality.

[LittleSteve]

If littlesteve has put his hands on it and approves of it i would run it. The man is a good machinist and knows quality.

who dis?

[helipilot77]

If littlesteve has put his hands on it and approves of it i would run it. The man is a good machinist and knows quality.

Confirmed in person.

[LittleSteve]

incase you were wondering

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

Thanks for the pics LittleSteve. Those will come in handy if i go the adapter plate route.

I spent a little time on the truck yesterday and found a set of new Energy Suspension cab body mounts from 1987 new in the package. Like i said, the previous owner gave me all of the new parts he sourced for his rebuild that never happened. I got them installed and they fit great.


I installed them to tighten the body back to the frame. (I previously took the cab off to take out the old drivetrain when i sold it)

In order to make sure the new engine doesnt create too many clearance issues on the drivers side, i installed the dash, steering wheel/column, and a turbo dial diaphragm brake booster from my old crawler into the cab. Ill test fit the engine in again today to see how much, if any, i need to offset to the passenger side. Just by eyeballing it, i would say that it doesnt look like i will have to do that.

Another cool thing i found in my pile of parts, is the original Japanese gauge cluster. Instead of having a tach, it has a clock in the center instead. I thought that was super cool. All the other non-Sr5 clusters i have seen does not have the clock option. Is this a Japan only option?

Ill post up some more pics later this evening.

[redneckcustoms13]

Dont think id choose a clock over a tach, however that is Very Cool!
I've never seen a 1st gen with a clock. If they didn't have a tach they had a Toyota logo in place of it. Maybe it's a Japan thing.

[the_white_shadow [OP]]

Id rather have a tach as well, but i may just roll with the clock and look at the tach through the tablet. Im hoping the TorquePro app can read the 1uz gauge outputs through the ODB2 dongle.

[redneckcustoms13]

Id does. I run it on my 3rz. My friend runs it on his 1uz and his 2gr swapped mr2.