Topic: The wait is over! Now need to install.

[Hickory Nut]

I tried everything to get those two bolts on top off. I ended up getting them to move with an angled box end wrench and got them all the way out with the extension/wobbly. I want to clean the PS brackets because they are caked with gook. There are two bolts behind the pulley. Is there a trick to get these off so I can clean this up?

[Cheesemaker]

The pulley can be tough to get off.  Loosen the nut, and take a small rubber mallet and tap the lip and spin the pulley.  Eventually it will break loose.  Don't hit it too hard.  Just tap it.  Spray it with some penetrating oil.  Its just on a key way on the shaft.  And mark the way the pulley comes off, because its offset. 

[Gnarly4X]

The pulley can be tough to get off.  Loosen the nut, and take a small rubber mallet and tap the lip and spin the pulley.  Eventually it will break loose.  Don't hit it too hard.  Just tap it.  Spray it with some penetrating oil.  Its just on a key way on the shaft.  And mark the way the pulley comes off, because its offset. 

I did NOT have to remove the pulley on the power steering pump. 

Gnarls.

[Cheesemaker]

You must have a special one then.  Cause I had to on mine. 

[Gnarly4X]

You must have a special one then.  Cause I had to on mine. 

Did you remove the pulley to get to the bolt right behind it on the bottom of the bracket?

Gnarls.

[Snowtoy]

There's no reason to go the trouble of unbolting the cab.  You have to lower the angle of the transmission t-case anyway.  Unbolting the cab mounting on a 32 year old truck is something I would NOT do to pull or re-install the engine.

But... I guess whatever works for you.

Gnarls.

It takes maybe 15 minutes to remove the bumper and 3 cab mounts, it isn't any trouble at all, and never had an issue with lifting the cab on a truck, as I replace the body mounts on every truck I restore, the last one was 30yrs old.

Had I not swapped a trans from a stock Toyota into one with a 2" body lift on the same day, I would probably think the same way, but having done so, I found the extra 2" of space made it a lot easier and less frustrating.  After that swap I tried lifting one side of the cab when I did a clutch, then an engine removal/installation, and continue to do it for clutches or trans removal, but for engines I find removing the engine and trans/t-case the easiest, since it makes mating them back together much easier. 

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

I got the engine separated from the trans and pulled Sunday. Today I was able to take off early and start moving some of the old parts to the new Engine. I think for my level of mechanical skill things are going well. I was going to post some pictures but it keeps saying my file is too big. I got new body mounts in a kit but they have been in a box since I thought it would be a lot of trouble to install them. Sounds like I need to do this after installing the new motor so those Two Bolts will be easier to get to. I didn't have a chance to mess with the PS Pulley yet. Anyway, thanks for all the replies and encouragement.

[Gnarly4X]

It takes maybe 15 minutes to remove the bumper and 3 cab mounts, it isn't any trouble at all, and never had an issue with lifting the cab on a truck, as I replace the body mounts on every truck I restore, the last one was 30yrs old...

To each his own… as I said whatever works for you.

Taking the time to liquid wrench soak those bolts to get them loose, and then maybe having to replace the cab mounting bushings or bolts unnecessarily seems ridiculous.

In my experience having pulled a 5-speed Toyota tranny about 4 times….

Once I have the drive shafts off, the transmission/t-case on the tranny jack, the cross member off, the exhaust pipe off, I lower the tranny about 4 or 5 iches, with  the back of the engine supported, I can remove the 6 bolts from the bell housing and pull the tranny from the engine in 10 minutes with my air impact and my ˝ drive extensions.  There is no frustration and no problem with space.  But someone who has done this more times than I have may do it quicker.

It goes back the same way… no space problems getting the ˝ extensions up to the top bell housing bolts.

That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.

Gnarls.

[Mudder]

If you have new body mount bushings I'd replace them. After all you are taking 20+ year rubber that does degrade.

[Cheesemaker]

I got the engine separated from the trans and pulled Sunday. Today I was able to take off early and start moving some of the old parts to the new Engine. I think for my level of mechanical skill things are going well. I was going to post some pictures but it keeps saying my file is too big. I got new body mounts in a kit but they have been in a box since I thought it would be a lot of trouble to install them. Sounds like I need to do this after installing the new motor so those Two Bolts will be easier to get to. I didn't have a chance to mess with the PS Pulley yet. Anyway, thanks for all the replies and encouragement.

Nice!!  I use Photobucket to host pictures onto forums.  Its easier than trying to resize your photos. 

Before you mess with anything get your power steering bracket on, and put your distributor in there.   Put the rotor at the 12 o clock position, slide it in, and it should rotate to the 11 o clock position.  The engine should be at TDC on #1 cylinder.  This way, if you end up rotating the motor while installing and torquing down the flywheel, your timing will be dead on. 

Don't forget to get new bolts for the flywheel, and use red loctite on them.  You might be able to get by with reusing the old bolts.  But new is cheap insurance.  Remember, there may be a good chance they are 30+ years old. 

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Pictures

[Cavu2usf]

Hickory Nut,

I found it easy to mount the engine by attaching the entire Engine Mount to the engine first, then lowering the engine into the truck. After mating it up to the tranny and removing the tranny support, it is then easier to secure the front mounts to the truck by way of the 4 Mounting Bolts, as opposed to mating the one single Engine Mount Stud.

All this may not be relevant if your 22RE mounts differ from my 20R. 

Steve

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Today when I was installing the wiring harness and upper intake plenum I noticed the connector on the thermostat housing is hanging by 1 strand of copper. Its worn right where the wire goes into the Plug/Connector. Any idea of how I could fix this. Have any of you run into this before. I had rather not buy a used harness for this sensor.

[Snowtoy]

You can usually remove the pin from the harness by depressing the metal tab that holds it in place with a thin ice pick or eyeglass screw driver, then separate the solderless connector and repair the wire.

If unsure of what you are looking for, here is a right up from TTOR
http://www.ttora.com/forum/8-interior-electrical-electronics/176559-repair-toyota-wire-harness.html

youtube video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFM-6ovP_-k

[Gnarly4X]

See my post 464  http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100729.60

Holy Crapity! ...Reading that TTOR novel to perform surgery took more time than fixing my broken wire!!

I chose not to try to get the metal connector tabs removed from the connector.. the plastic and the metal was too bittle.

As far as connectors and harnesses, I was told by a well respected Toyota 22RE expert that they are NOT available.

Gnarls. 

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Thanks for the info guys. I will take a look at it after work today.

[Cheesemaker]

As Snowtoy explained, stupid easy fix.  I have done a half dozen myself. 

Small pick, solder, heatshrink it, and reinstall.  It takes me longer to get the solder gun heated up, than it does to fix it.   

[Gnarly4X]

As Snowtoy explained, stupid easy fix.  I have done a half dozen myself. 

Small pick, solder, heatshrink it, and reinstall.  It takes me longer to get the solder gun heated up, than it does to fix it.   

My Toyota trucks must be way too "smart" for me. 

For my 22RE, I have yet to find anything about it that I could say it's been a "stupid easy fix"?   

Gnarls.

[Cheesemaker]

Yeah, most are brain benders, or arm twisters.  But I really enjoy the stupid simple fixes. 

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Man I have been fighting to get the new engine back in today. This joker doesn't want to go back in there. Am I missing something?Any ideas would greatly be appreciated. 

[Gnarly4X]

Man I have been fighting to get the new engine back in today. This joker doesn't want to go back in there. Am I missing something?Any ideas would greatly be appreciated. 

Are you trying to drop it in the engine bay with the tranny mounted in the cross member?

Gnarls.

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Yes sir.

[Gnarly4X]

Yes sir.

OH boy... I know it can be done, but from what I've been told it's REALLY a bear.  I did not want to do that because I did not want to risk bending the input shaft on the tranny.

Gnarls.

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

So should I unbolt the cross member and support the transmission then try to mate it?

[Gnarly4X]

So should I unbolt the cross member and support the transmission then try to mate it?

I don't know what the trick is to get the engine mounted to the tranny then the tranny is installed in the cross member?  IF you drop the tranny and t-case, I think you will have to drop the drive shafts.  Someone here who has done this may know the trick to do that way?

Gnarls.

[Cheesemaker]

It took me awhile to finally get the input shaft to finally slide in.  And don't forget the splines on the input shaft.  I said some unfriendly words myself.  But the moment it slips in, is glorious!!  Oh wait!!!  Am I talking about something else???      No, but it feels that good when it does pop in place. 

[Gnarly4X]

It took me awhile to finally get the input shaft to finally slide in..... 

It helps a lot if you put a dab of veenerschlider on the end of your shaft. 

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

It took me awhile to finally get the input shaft to finally slide in.....

Just my thinking...  trying to get my engine, dangling from a cherry picker, to drop into my engine bay and sit down on the motor mounts and the frame rails was difficult for me, I probably spent 1 hour man-handling it before I finally figured out the combination.

I cannot imagine trying to drop and engine into the bay AND slid it back into the input shaft of the tranny - that is mounted on the cross member - through the clutch disc spline, couple it to the bell housiing, AND drop it over the motor mounts.

It is tricky enough, for me, getting the tranny and t-case, sitting on and strapped to my tranny jack, with the back of the engine supported with a bottle jack, and massaging the input shaft up to the pressure plate and then push the tranny up to the bell housing at the perfect angles to get the splines on the input shaft to slip through the clutch disc and the tip of the input shaft to slip into pilot bearing!

BUT.... I'm old and slow and as a DIYer I don't get much practice on my Toyotas.... damn things are just way TOO reliable!! 

Gnarls. 
 

[emsvitil]

One of these helps:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-60659.html

[Gnarly4X]

One of these helps:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-60659.html

Yes sir it does!

Gnarls.