Topic: The wait is over! Now need to install.

[Snowtoy]

Man I have been fighting to get the new engine back in today. This joker doesn't want to go back in there. Am I missing something?Any ideas would greatly be appreciated.

,

When you installed the clutch, did you align it?

I have found when mating the two, leave the trans in gear, with the engine at the same angle as the trans, slide the two together, if/when stopped, turn crank a little to get the engine to mesh with the output shaft.  This usually gets the two within 1/4" to 1/2" of each other, where you can then use the bell housing bolts to pull them together.

If you have the engine mounts installed, you may want to remove them to give yourself more clearance until you get two together.

[Gnarly4X]

,

When you installed the clutch, did you align it?

I have found when mating the two, leave the trans in gear, with the engine at the same angle as the trans, slide the two together, if/when stopped, turn crank a little to get the engine to mesh with the output shaft.  This usually gets the two within 1/4" to 1/2" of each other, where you can then use the bell housing bolts to pull them together.

If you have the engine mounts installed, you may want to remove them to give yourself more clearance until you get two together.

I highly recommend that you DO NOT use the bell housing bolts to mate the transmission to the bell housing.  The transmission and the bell housing should mate almost completely flush with each other IF the tip of the shaft on the transmission has been inserted in the pilot bearing and there is nothing binding.

That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.

Gnarls.

[OVRAROK]

I highly recommend that you DO NOT use the bell housing bolts to mate the transmission to the bell housing.  The transmission and the bell housing should mate almost completely flush with each other IF the tip of the shaft on the transmission has been inserted in the pilot bearing and there is nothing binding.

That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.

Gnarls.

Agreed

[Snowtoy]

I highly recommend that you DO NOT use the bell housing bolts to mate the transmission to the bell housing.  The transmission and the bell housing should mate almost completely flush with each other IF the tip of the shaft on the transmission has been inserted in the pilot bearing and there is nothing binding.

That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.

Gnarls.

I said pull them together, not force them together, , at a 1/4" or so everything is aligned and you can usually turn the socket with your fingers or spin the ratchet effortlessly.  I have done it this way several times, whether mating the two in the truck or on the shop floor, no issues at all.

[emsvitil]

You sort of walk/wiggle it together with the bolts.......

[Gnarly4X]

I said pull them together, not force them together, , at a 1/4" or so everything is aligned and you can usually turn the socket with your fingers or spin the ratchet effortlessly.  I have done it this way several times, whether mating the two in the truck or on the shop floor, no issues at all.

Hey Snowtoy,

I understood what you meant, but for someone new to this job, who knows what their experience is. 

Everyone has a concept of how things work, like how much torque to apply to nuts and bolts.  Having worked on older alloy engines and transmissions over the years I tend to be cautious. Like most of us do, I read the torque specs and sometimes cringe at applying that much torque to a 30 year old nut, bolt, or other part – so I don’t – I use my gut torque wrench.  Twisting off a bolt or busting a flange on these old trucks will usually completely ruin your day, and can put a BIG ding in your checking account, or over-heat your credit card. 

The tip of the input shaft on my transmissions slides around 3/8 to 1/2  inch into the pilot bearing mounted in the back of the crankshaft. I have discovered that when I’ve R&R a tranny or done a clutch job, the new pilot bearing can be a really tight fit on the tip of the input shaft.  With the tranny sitting on my tranny jack – BEFORE I attempt to mount the tranny to the bell housing, I ALWAYS check the fit.  I clean the tip of the input shaft with some 600 grit emery cloth, spray some silicone srpay on it, and then make damn sure the pilot bearing slides over the tip of the shaft easily.  I also spend extra time aligning the clutch disc between the flywheel and pressure plate. 

Making love to that tranny and t-case while aligning it’s mating position to the back of the engine has always been a bear for me… even when I was 175 lbs of solid romance and had muscle in my poop!! 

So, when the bell housing is finally snug with the back of the engine.... it's like foreplay before my mini-orgasm.

That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless.

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

So should I unbolt the cross member and support the transmission then try to mate it?

Hickory Nut,

Are you still fighting this?

Gnarls.

[Cavu2usf]

I've done it this way twice. Yes, the risk of bending the Tranny drive shaft is there, but here's the tip.

I support the tranny with maybe a 5 or 10 degree angle up from parallel.


This shows the engine at a too-steep of a matching angle, but for now it's just dropping in over the grill.


The next two pictures show the engine angle matching up to the transmission's.




This was the only time in the rebuild that I needed assistance from my neighbor George. It took two sets of eyes on both sides of the engine to match angle (Engine Hoist Leveler) and height of engine-to-transmission for an easy joining. This took the most time and did NOT want to rush this step.


Once that was done, we firmly (but not too forcefully) pushed the engine back onto the transmission, and inserted the two (pre-placed in the transmission holes) Top Mounting Bolts thru the engine's mounting holes and tightened them snug.

Then I went to the bottom and inserted the lower mounting bolts, adjusting engine angle/height as needed to get them started.

After that, removed the transmission support and lowered the engine onto the Engine Frame Pads, inserting their mounting bolts as it went down onto them.

Removed the hoist, tightened the four Engine-to-Tranny bolts first and the front engine pad bolts last.

Done. 

Steve   

[Gnarly4X]

I've done it this way twice....Yes, the risk of bending the Tranny drive shaft is there, but here's the tip.

Geezzz... you make it sound so easy!!  Great job!  Nice hot tip!!  I love the nice photos! 

Gnarls.

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Yes I am still fighting with it but have not messed with it much Saturday or today. I usually go bass fishing on the weekends. I had it put together once this morning but pushed the intake side to get the motor mount bolts to line up and it slid back out. I only have the motor supported by one chain and its a little crooked on the cherry picker. I think if I get one of those load levelers I can get it to mate correctly. I do agree you guys make this look too easy. I do appreciate the advice.

[Gnarly4X]

Yes I am still fighting with it but have not messed with it much Saturday or today. I usually go bass fishing on the weekends. I had it put together once this morning but pushed the intake side to get the motor mount bolts to line up and it slid back out. I only have the motor supported by one chain and its a little crooked on the cherry picker. I think if I get one of those load levelers I can get it to mate correctly. I do agree you guys make this look too easy. I do appreciate the advice.

If it has slipped all the way and mated with the bell housing, then your clutch disc is aligned – obviously that’s big plus!

That HB leveler does help get the engine at the right angle.

You’ll getter done after you catch a few fish.

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

If it has slipped all the way and mated with the bell housing, then your clutch disc is aligned – obviously that’s big plus!

That HB leveler does help get the engine at the right angle.

You’ll getter done after you catch a few fish.

Gnarls.

Did you catch any fish? 

Where's the engine sitting? 

Gnarls. 

[Cavu2usf]

Did you catch any fish? 

Where's the engine sitting? 

Gnarls. 

Inquiring minds want to know.
What IS up with the engine HN?   Had a chance to get back to it yet?

Steve

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

It has been slow going. I was able to get the engine mounted up but there is still a small gap between the engine and bellhousing. Every time I would get it in there the new motor mounts were off so I put the bolts in the mounts and have not had much time to tinker with it. I figured it would slip right in and I could move forward. It is really hard to do by yourself. I took the clutch fork off and cleaned all that mess up as it was caked with grease and oil. I just hope I put it back right with the new TO bearing. I've really enjoyed the process but I'm ready to get it finished now. I have to get the bellhousing bolted up, PS pump mounted , starter installed , Fuel pump , and new radiator in so I still have a good bit of work to do.

BTW the fishing has been really slow. There was a big tournament last weekend on Ross Barnett and 12 ponds and change won. Usually it takes 25-30 lbs to win. I don't tournament fish anymore. I got tired of donating my money to other people. Now I sleep in, fish for fun, and spend the money on rebuilding my Toyota. 

[Gnarly4X]

..... Every time I would get it in there the new motor mounts were off ....

Do you have the motor mount bolts loose on the frame rail, and the bolts that hold the bracket against the engine?

Gnarls.

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Yes that was the only way I could get them lined up.

[Cavu2usf]

OK HN,

Can't get 'em to mate? Not the end of the world.

As I see it, worst case scenario: you might have to lift it out and recheck a few things. Best case: shove it back on the tranny a little harder, and bing; it goes together. 

Did you by chance have one of these to center the Clutch Disc as you torqued down the Clutch to the Flywheel?


They really help in the mating step.

You mentioned some Shift Fork work. What exactly was done to it? The Throwout bearing replacement was a good idea. 

You can do it.
Steve

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

I used the clutch alignment tool while installing everything. Today I was able to get everything buttoned up on the bell housing. The gap is now closed and everything is mated. It took some wiggling and patience to get it set.

On the shift fork I pulled everything out and cleaned it up and changed the TO bearing. I got all of that reinstalled today and when I press the Clutch it is really soft.

I got the starter installed as well.

I ordered a new throttle body when I ordered the engine. When installing it I found the new throttle body has one less vacuum hose connection. See attached picture.

[emsvitil]

That last small gap (1/4" or so) is when the alignment bushings start to engage on the bellhousing and you do have to use the bolts to pull it together...............

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Cool that's what I was thinking. The gap is gone on the bell housing now.

I was able to find some pictures on-line of the TB vacuum lines but there is no connection on the TB for my dash pot. I'm going to cap it off since the boot is dry rotted off.

Man I hope I can get this thing buttoned up this week as I'm tired of looking at all the parts and tools in my driveway. My Carport is in bad need of a pressure washer bath!

Today's Progress: bell housing tightened up and aligned, TB installed, Slave Cylinder installed, wiring harness fished back through firewall , ECU connected, and wiring for TB (When I got the truck the PO spliced a 3 prong TPS and the old 4 wire plug was taped up under the TB. I had to rewire it back to a 4 prong connector and get all that fixed).

As Ice Cube said, "Today was a good day"! 

[Gnarly4X]

Hey Hickory Nut,

Great job on making some excellent progress!! 

Gnarls.

[Cavu2usf]

Hey Hickory Nut,

Great job on making some excellent progress!! 

Gnarls.

I'll second that! 
Great going my friend. 

Throttle Body?
Here's where you lose me HN. 

Steve

[Cheesemaker]

   for ya!  I remember those days of frustration. 

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

I added the fluids last night and plan on trying to start this puppy tomorrow morning.

When I got the new engine it was set on the 0 degree mark. When I installed the distributor it was in the 12 o'clock position and moved to the 11 o'clock position like their start up procedure/video showed/suggested. When I was installing the PS pulley I moved the timing mark past the 0 degree mark with the distributor installed. Will I have to find TDC again before I try to start this thing?

Do I need to set it on the 5 Degree mark then reinstall the distributor? I would like to try and get this done correctly the first time. Sorry for the stupid questions.

[emsvitil]

0 is close enough to get it started.

Once you start it, you set timing to 5 with the test connector jumped (shorted).

[Hickory Nut [OP]]

Awesome! Thanks for the reply.

[Gnarly4X]

With the distributor sitting with the hold down bolt in the middle of the slot, the cap off, rotor installed, harmonic pulley notch sitting at zero on the timing tab, #1 piston at TDC firing, the rotor should be at the #1 contact on the cap as you hold it up to the distributor where it mounts.

Have you checked the valve lash?  I have not seen the cam specs for a cam that 22RE Performance offers.  Did they provide the cam specs for this head and cam?

I don’t believe there is such as thing as a stupid question when rebuilding a 22RE.

Gnarls.

[Cheesemaker]

Don't forget to put a good charge on your battery before startup.  Nothing like getting all excited about putting life into the motor, and then the battery is dead, or too weak. 

[Gnarly4X]

Don't forget to put a good charge on your battery before startup.  Nothing like getting all excited about putting life into the motor, and then the battery is dead, or too weak. 

Excellent suggestion.

I will add that you might consider buying a can of starting fluid, and spray 3 or 4 seconds into chamber with the thottle opened.  That will save time on the starter and battery.

Gnarls.

[Cavu2usf]

I guess I did it this time because it was suggested by someone who had trouble before: getting Oil Pressure on startup. I never did.
Packing the Oil Pump with Vaseline. Smelled like coconuts afterward. 

Just saying, oil pressure is the thing I really watch for on startup. Yours is a crate, IIRC, so be vigilant of that OIL LIGHT.

Steve