Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild

[emsvitil]

I've always had to retighten the screw clamps.................




I own page 6   

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

INPUT NEEDED....

When I lifted the engine from the engine bay, I used a cherry picker with a piece of chain and quick links.  The problem is that it pulls and bends the front hook very badly. 

I want to fabricate of “lift bar” so the lift is vertical to the hooks on each side of the engine.

Just for a frame of reference I laid a piece of PVC and some chain on top of the engine and marked the points of pull for the lift bar.

It will have to be strong enough to hold the weight of the engine.  I didn’t weigh it so I don’t know how much it weighs, but I’d make a wild guess between 250 and 300 lbs with the fly wheel, pressure and clutch installed?  The power steering pump, AC compressor, and starter are sitting in the engine bay, and alternator I will install after the engine is back on the motor mounts.

Since I’m now projecting that my out-of-pocket for this rebuild will be about a grand over my estimated budget, I’m now in a cost-savings mode.

Do any of you guru fabricators or any of you with design knowledge want to suggest a design of a low-cost simple lift bar I can have fabricated, or I could fabricate?

The trick will be to be able to mount the center pick up point (perhaps adjustable) so it’s somewhat balanced with the engine level.

Any help or suggestions will be appreciated.

Gnarls.

[toyodaaddict]

 Ive done four engines with this and it gets the job done. Its a must if your installing the engine and transmission as a unit.  Not sure if its what your after or not  http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Ive done four engines with this and it gets the job done. Its a must if your installing the engine and transmission as a unit.  Not sure if its what your after or not  http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html

toyodaaddict.....    

Dang!!!!  You guys are really AWESOME!!  That's exactly the kinda thing I'm thinking of!  For $30 bucks I'll get one tomorrow!  We have a new Harbor Freight in Casa Grande about 10 minutes away.

I'll stick the tranny and t-case in after I get the engine in.  It's sitting on my Harbor Freight tranny jack.

Gnarls. 

[emsvitil]

gnarly,

you have pm

[emsvitil]

I have one of those HF levelers......

They work great.....

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

toyodaaddict and emsvitil,

You guys ROCK!!

Thanks,

Gnarls.

[Mudder]

Gnarly4x, just took my truck for a spin with the 261C cam and it rocks! I was able to get up to 70 MPH in less than 2 miles while keeping my shifts under 4k. It has more pull over the stock cam. The true test will be after the 500 mile break in and I can go over 4k.

[OTO Phil]

Have fun with that! You'll enjoy being able to accelerate from 45-70 in 5th gear with a moderate pace 💪

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[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Gnarly4x, just took my truck for a spin with the 261C cam and it rocks! I was able to get up to 70 MPH in less than 2 miles while keeping my shifts under 4k. It has more pull over the stock cam. The true test will be after the 500 mile break in and I can go over 4k.

Oh geezzzz!!!     I'm very happy to read that!!!   

I've been losing some sleep over my cam selection.

So, did you just switch cams, no oversize valves on your rebuild... header???

Yes.... after 500 miles or so you should feel an increase in throttle response.

Remember to retorque/check your head.  I would recheck it after 25 to 50 miles.

Remember to retorque/check your exhaust manifold/header nuts.

I gotta get mine in and my truck on the road again! 

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Have fun with that! You'll enjoy being able to accelerate from 45-70 in 5th gear with a moderate pace 💪

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I can hardly wait!!!   

Gnarls.

[Mudder]

Engnbldr'ds stock replacement head and stock exhaustamigold for me sadly.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

Engnbldr'ds stock replacement head and stock exhaustamigold for me sadly.

Hey Mudder,

Just in case you are interested, here's an Excel sheet showing a mock pull with torque and HP numbers and what your engine would most likely look like on an engine dyno compared to a 22RE stock cam, stock exhaust.  This is just swapping a 22RE stock cam with engnbldr 261C cam.  Notice the nice RPM range that the 261C has after 2900 RPM. The stock cam is showing more torque at the lower RPM range.  Would you agree with those numbers?

Gnarls.

[Mudder]

Thanks Garnly! I would have to agree with those numbers. Now I do have chromoly connecting rods and that does make my engine get into higher RPM's quicker so the lack of lower end doesn't bother me. The engine for sure has more pulling power as I was able to go up a 6% grade about 1.5 miles long and go from 3000-4000 and had to back off the throttle to not go over 4000 RPM's as I don't want to have any problems with this motor.

[OTO Phil]

Every morning when i get to school at WSUV, i lug it up a pretty steep grade in 3rd gear, about 1500 RPMs, at about 25 MPH..

Now, I've got a bit more done to my motor than just a 261c but it feels like I've got loads more pulling power than stock.. I'm planning on replacing plugs, cleaning my filter, and resetting my timing before going to a dyno for $30 and getting an actual dyno chart..
Anyone wanna donate to the cause? Haha

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[Mudder]

I will say those chromoly connecting rods are amazing. I only bought them since I plan on turboing my truck next year. WHy are you in 3rd at 25 MPH? With a tach I can safely do 30 in 2nd without even touching 4k RPM's.

[OTO Phil]

Oh, I've only got 31" tires with stock gearing lol

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[OTO Phil]

I can do 30 in 2nd too if i want to.. I'm just saying that in 3rd it's really lugging.. and I'm still pulling when i go up that hill

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[Mudder]

Oh okay, that makes more sense. I thought you were doing it because you thought it was to high of a speed in 2nd.

[OTO Phil]

Oh heck no.. when i smoke 3.0s at lights, I'm up around 5200 when i shift

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[Gnarly4X [OP]]

..... I'm planning on replacing plugs, cleaning my filter, and resetting my timing before going to a dyno for $30 and getting an actual dyno chart..  Anyone wanna donate to the cause? Haha

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Only $30 for a chassis dyno test??? Really?... smok'n deal! 

OK guys, for those of you who are curios.... let's pitch in a little help pay for excabswap's dyno test that he will share with all of us!!!!   

YES... I'll donate!       My checkbook balance is only $15.97  ... I will send you a check for $10.00!!  PM me with your mailing address.

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

I can do 30 in 2nd too if i want to.. I'm just saying that in 3rd it's really lugging.. and I'm still pulling when i go up that hill

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These little engines don't like to be "lugged".... just "hugged". 

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

..  Now, I've got a bit more done to my motor than just a 261c.....

Hey excabswap.... would you mind detailing what you have done to your engine.

Gnarls.

[OTO Phil]

No problemo..

all machine work by ENGNBLDR 2 years ago:
Bored .020 over

Full long block rebuild buy Tod (ENGNBLDR). Only original parts are the block, rods, crank and head
Stainless pistons
Chrome moly rings
Light smoothing on the head (no polish because i didn't plan on a turbo and turbulence is good here according to him. Later research on my part reinforced his recommendation)

261c crawler cam

Everything else in the long block is new.

Doug thorley Tri Y header
Remflex gasket (only including this because it's freaking worth it)

Vs


Straight pipe from the header back through a flowmaster 40 and out
Super duper custom deluxe ram air intake haha..

Flywheel resurfaced and gear ring flipped. Centerforce clutch. (Including this so you know about how much weight is on the flywheel for torque/hp draw... Not much haha)


And that's about all i can think of.. if you think i missed anything lemme know..

Sorry for all the pics, I just like to be thorough.

Also, what size tire should i go with to the dyno? Stock size since i have sick gearing?

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[OTO Phil]

Oh yeah, I've since converted my fan to electric, and it feels like it makes a pretty significant difference. I only have to turn my fan on if I'm at a standstill for more than a few minutes

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[OTO Phil]

Oh, and to answer your question, yep only $30 for 1 chassis dyno test.. only problem is the minimum is 2 pulls haha.. don't worry too much about the donation, I've always wanted to know anyways

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[Gnarly4X [OP]]

excabswap,

Cool beans! ! Love the photos!

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

excabswap,

Yeah... she's purrddyyy!! 

Is that a Doug Thorley header?

OK, so I"m also .020" over bore with an engnbldr RV head with OS valves and 261C cam.  Block deck cleaned up at .006" smoothed.  Crank, rods, flywheel, and pressure plate have been balanced.  It's got the stock flywheel and I don't know whose clutch and pressure plate I have and I'm still debating to replace it.

Tires for your chassis dyno?..... What is your ring and pinion ratio and tranny model?  What tire sizes are you running mostly?

The tire size will affect the final drive gear ratio, so it depends on where in your RPM range you want to have your peak torque measured.

Oh, so your shop charges $30 for each pull, with a minimum of 2 pulls??

I think 2 pulls is a little shy of the norm.  My speed shop here does 5 pulls for $99.

I'm planning on having my truck on the dyno soon as I think it's broken in well and still freshly tuned.

Gnarls. 

[OTO Phil]

excabswap,

Yeah... she's purrddyyy!! 

Is that a Doug Thorley header?

OK, so I"m also .020" over bore with an engnbldr RV head with OS valves and 261C cam.  Block deck cleaned up at .006" smoothed.  Crank, rods, flywheel, and pressure plate have been balanced.  It's got the stock flywheel and I don't know whose clutch and pressure plate I have and I'm still debating to replace it.

Tires for your chassis dyno?..... What is your ring and pinion ratio and tranny model?  What tire sizes are you running mostly?

The tire size will affect the final drive gear ratio, so it depends on where in your RPM range you want to have your peak torque measured.

Oh, so your shop charges $30 for each pull, with a minimum of 2 pulls??

I think 2 pulls is a little shy of the norm.  My speed shop here does 5 pulls for $99.

I'm planning on having my truck on the dyno soon as I think it's broken in well and still freshly tuned.

Gnarls. 

Yessir and thanks!!


Also, forgot to add this for anyone reading this and wanting to know more about the 261c cam:



As for the number of pulls, I'm not exactly sure. I know it's between $60-70 for some time on a dyno... I figure at least 2... Depending on how ragged they run my baby haha...

I'm not used to other people driving my yota... I guess I'm a bit overprotective 

As for my diffs, still stock 4:10s. Transmission is a w56 with forward shift tcase... (gonna be fun trying to dual case this, but there's a guy at marlin who did it so there's some hope lol)

I have a set of slightly cracked rollers that are 235s I think, and my BFGs are 31s, but stocks are 225s lol...

If I were just finishing up a break-in, I'd wait until after you re-torque the head bolts to go or a dyno run.. Just my

[Gnarly4X [OP]]

I did quite a bit of research before starting this rebuild and because I'm probably too anal (along with not wanting to screw up an engine I've never rebuilt from scratch) I've been trying to gather as much information as I can from multiple sources... from those like me that may not be any kind of an expert and just kind of a DIYer with some degree of mechanical ability and desire ...  to the guys that have been building engines most of their lives... to the aftermarket product marketeers. 

Here on this site there is obviously an incredible amount of experience, skills, knowledge, and passion for Toyotas.  And, like most automotive sites I've been on, there is also some Bravo Sierra.

Based upon my previous research and my other two trucks, and technical conversions with very reputable experts - the engine I've put together with engbldr's RV head, oversize valves, 261C camshaft, Doug Thorley header, 2.25" exhaust, cat, and turbo type muffler, I should be VERY pleased with the power, especially the torque curve.  The 261C cam profile was designed to improve throttle response in a 22R/RE 3500 lb truck in the gearing range with 4.10 R&P and 31" tires....

I'll know more, hopefully before the end of August (still waiting to purchase some parts), how this engine performs.  I don't expect it to blow 3 foot flames out the exhaust, but I'm expecting it to be a LOT MORE peppy than what it was before I toasted it by accidentally running it out of coolant.

Gnarls.