Topic: Which first suspension then dual caes

[desrodunes1]

Just picked up an 85 extra cab with a 3" body lift on 33's and with 4:88's and was wondering what the best route  I should take, either the dual t cases first or the lift (63's and RUF). The truck will be a trail, hunting/ minor crawler DD. I figured maybe the suspension lift first then the duals so I would have to only do the drive shafts once, another quest. would be when I do the duals do I just go to a single driveshaft in the rear instead of the split original and bearing one? thx for the help Mike

[blackdiamond]

What size tires are your goal?  I'd suggest losing or at least lowering the body lift.

[H8PVMNT]

I say keep your money in the drivetrain...  Suspension will come eventually anyway.  You can do alot to that stock suspension that will make it way better than stock without spending much at all.  You are right that ot would be good to do it all at once to save on the drivelines, but if you can only do one, get the duals.

And yes, single driveshaft.

[blackdiamond]

When I had my 85 Extended Cab I ran the 4-1/2 inch Super Lift springs with the stock push pull steering (I added an inch of Honda tie rod to the link) and it really performed well.  The front springs worked great and the rears didn't flex at all, but in Moab it climbed like a goat.  I ran 33 inch tires, 4.88 gears and a single 4.70 t-case.  The t-case gears were an amazing difference and duals is very similar with more options and a few more required mods.  A Detroit Truerac also worked great until I upgraded to an Aussie with Longfield front axles and hub gears.  The front end is still in my current 89 SAS 4Runner.

Cranky Crawler has an 84 Long Bed with duals and went to the single drivershaft configuration.  His wheelbase should be the same and it's working well for him.

[desrodunes1 [OP]]

Getting some good feedback thx guys

[Rocksurfer]

From what you say you are going to do with it save your money on doing duals, do a single case 4.70:1. You'll get the reduction in low you'll need over the 2.28:1's and you won't have to change anything like driveshafts and such. Now with the $ you saved, you can still do a lift too. Then if later on you decide that you would like duals you can always add one in.

[TacoRunner]

I build suspension products and even I have to say go with the gearing first. Learn to drive it with the gearing first then get the suspension. 

[desrodunes1 [OP]]

thx guys for the info, thinking gonna put dual T cases and get use to it then maybe a rear locker or elocker and maybe a limited slip front. whats the word on tru trac limited slip front?

[blackdiamond]

thx guys for the info, thinking gonna put dual T cases and get use to it then maybe a rear locker or elocker and maybe a limited slip front. whats the word on tru trac limited slip front?

I had a truetrac in my 85 pickup for several years before I upgraded to an Aussie when I added Longfield front axles.  It worked really well and would work well with a power brake when a front tire was in the air.  The majority of my wheeling was on the slickrock in Moab, but it did great in the Washington dirt as well.  It was far better than a front locker for driving on the street.

I'd suggest putting an Aussie or Detroil locker in the rear.  Unless you're driving it all a lot on slick roads you'll be fine and it'll save some coin and be more bullet proof.  I would probably do an Aussie in the rear if I didn't already have a Detroit.

[TacoRunner]

You'll regret the limited slip in either front or rear. Use the ARB in front you steering and knuckles will thank you for it.

[desrodunes1 [OP]]

thx tacorunner I just figure it never hurts to get another opinion