OVRAROK. My 87 4runner

[OVRAROK]

Wish I could have hung out! Felt like I wasn't there at all

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

Congrats to your daughter for 1st place. Great job on the resto

[OVRAROK]

This had to be the highlight for me.. A cummins R2.8 installed in 1st gen 4runner... Goals....

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[CrazyYota]

That was a nice 4runner! Did you leave early? I was the swap meet lol

[OVRAROK]

No. I stayed til the end. If you where only one at swap meet area. My buddy and I walked up first thing in the morning and chatted with you for awhile.. I was the guy that noticed your cowl that you used for your half doors

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[OVRAROK]

Well.

What's that saying: another man's junk, is another man's treasure...

Found this couple hours away. My future offroading/ camping trailer.
Last owner bought the truck new.. Was wrecked in front. Had somebody professionally turn it into a trailer.. has  CA number, and PTI plates..
Plans are to get a couple used 37s. Pull bed, strip it down, rattle can paint white. Clean frame, and whatever it needs. Paint it.. needs the wiring re done. A new taillight. Should be ready for next spring..

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[CrazyYota]

No. I stayed til the end. If you where only one at swap meet area. My buddy and I walked up first thing in the morning and chatted with you for awhile.. I was the guy that noticed your cowl that you used for your half doors

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

I'm blind....

[OVRAROK]

This is where I'm at. Had a tailgate bolt snapped, dealt with it. Drivers side wheel well is rusted a tad. Going to trim into rounder shape. Found an ifs rear end. So spring over..
Tomorrow,  I'll weld plate over gas tank fill. Fill in holes where plastic mud guards where.  Bed Should be ready for paint Thursday.. after it cures, I'll pull. Address any issues with frame.., clean up, install ifs rear. Get ready for paint..
Going to pick n pull tomorrow to get rear wiring harness for taillights

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[OVRAROK]

Made some progress today. Just need to prep and paint tailgate. Ordered a new TOYOTA decal for tailgate.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[OVRAROK]

Picking up an IFS rear housing with axles mon or Tues.
Been thinking... since for a trailer, do I need R&P. I could run a spool, no gears.. weld up where pinion comes out of housing.. I have a good 3rd I could use, but was thinking this could be more efficient
.

[a1gemmel]

Makes sense to me. I've seen people use full float rear ends to avoid running a center section at all. Looking real good there.

[OVRAROK]

Makes sense to me. I've seen people use full float rear ends to avoid running a center section at all. Looking real good there.

Im going to do more research on this..but it seems like less drag to me...

[Dingman.]

Would it be worth it to have a decent diff in it in case you or someone else blows theirs up and needs a spare?  Would be annoying to have to swap two diffs to get your going again, but a spare would be nice. 

(This could also just be my thinking with my horrible run of Toyota third members )

[Snowtoy]

Picking up an IFS rear housing with axles mon or Tues.
Been thinking... since for a trailer, do I need R&P. I could run a spool, no gears.. weld up where pinion comes out of housing.. I have a good 3rd I could use, but was thinking this could be more efficient
.

You don't need to run an R&P, just as long as you support the inside end of the axles some how. 

Not sure how a spool would be with a trailer, if you have one lying around, might try it and see, but it seems like having both wheels spinning as one, might make backing up more difficult, especially off road. 

If you are looking to keep costs down, just run the 3rd you have, with the truck bed trailers that I have built, I have always used the third member without issue. 

As mentioned you could go full float, but at the cost, going independent rear would cost about the same, and be more beneficial as it removes the axle altogether.
https://timbren.com/pages/axle-less-trailer-suspension
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Axles/Timbren/ASR2KHDS03.html#exp-productdetails=.related-products

Something else to consider with your trailer, I know you said the previous owner had it professionally done, but it doesn't look from the photos, that it was done using trailer engineering.  For a single axle trailer to not sway while following the tow vehicle, the trailer cargo box/area needs to be set up 60/40 over the axle, with the 60% side between the center of the axle and the begging of the tongue.  With the 6' bed, the center of the tongue should be about 72" from the front of the bed.

[OVRAROK]

You don't need to run an R&P, just as long as you support the inside end of the axles some how. 

Not sure how a spool would be with a trailer, if you have one lying around, might try it and see, but it seems like having both wheels spinning as one, might make backing up more difficult, especially off road. 

If you are looking to keep costs down, just run the 3rd you have, with the truck bed trailers that I have built, I have always used the third member without issue. 

As mentioned you could go full float, but at the cost, going independent rear would cost about the same, and be more beneficial as it removes the axle altogether.
https://timbren.com/pages/axle-less-trailer-suspension
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Axles/Timbren/ASR2KHDS03.html#exp-productdetails=.related-products

Something else to consider with your trailer, I know you said the previous owner had it professionally done, but it doesn't look from the photos, that it was done using trailer engineering.  For a single axle trailer to not sway while following the tow vehicle, the trailer cargo box/area needs to be set up 60/40 over the axle, with the 60% side between the center of the axle and the begging of the tongue.  With the 6' bed, the center of the tongue should be about 72" from the front of the bed.

Well, I drove it 2 hours home at freeway speeds. Tracks great, when closer to the house, I took the back roads, lots of turns. Feels great to me..
I already picked up an ifs width rear, just need to smooth one more half of it, weld on perches I have a good 410 open diff I'll use, have axles, couple pairs of rear spring packs. Just need to find 1 black 15x8 3.75 bs, and a newer 35 mtr.

[OVRAROK]

I finished the tailgate, and repainted the inner part of taillights. Used a more reflective silver paint. Tailgate handle should be here tomorrow..

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[OVRAROK]

Noticed a couple pics where messed up.. was showing the difference in repaint of inside of taillight housings.
Also got axle cleaned up, cut the backing plates down. put it all together to make sure housing wasn't bent. Will start tearing down. Painting 3rd, weld perches, and shock mounts on.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[Snowtoy]

Well, I drove it 2 hours home at freeway speeds. Tracks great, when closer to the house, I took the back roads, lots of turns. Feels great to me.

If it is close to 72", it might handle the same when loaded. 

While the 60/40 placement isn't precise, it is recommended for cargo trailers, as it should keep the tongue weight within the 10-15% range when loaded, allowing for the most predictable handling regardless of how it is loaded.  With your planned use, you should be able to keep the tongue weight within the 10-15% range.

Before you paint the axle, you might considering welding on some shock mounts, I have found you get more bounce and side to side to side movement with the spring over vs spring under.

[OVRAROK]

If it is close to 72", it might handle the same when loaded. 

While the 60/40 placement isn't precise, it is recommended for cargo trailers, as it should keep the tongue weight within the 10-15% range when loaded, allowing for the most predictable handling regardless of how it is loaded.  With your planned use, you should be able to keep the tongue weight within the 10-15% range.

Before you paint the axle, you might considering welding on some shock mounts, I have found you get more bounce and side to side to side movement with the spring over vs spring under.

Definitely shock mounts. I have a pair of 12" bilsteins. May end up with jeep like shock mounts. Long dragging, near the wheel. Lol. But im working with what I have. Also picking up u bolt flip kit.. I painted the diff today... also picked up half cut rear wiring harness from P-N-P..

[Snowtoy]

Sounds good.  Since you went through the effort of grabbing an oem harness, are you going to keep the trailer turn signal lights separate?

[OVRAROK]

Sounds good.  Since you went through the effort of grabbing an oem harness, are you going to keep the trailer turn signal lights separate?

I have a plug n play on rear taillights on 4runner. It's your typical 4 pin. I really haven't got that far into yet. I did plug harness into trailer taillights to verify wiring. I know the reverse doesn't get used but..
Hmmmm. You got me thinking.

[OVRAROK]

Harness was only 10 bucks..

[Snowtoy]

I know the reverse doesn't get used but..
Hmmmm. You got me thinking.

With the truck bed conversions I have done as protects to sell I have just gone with just the 4 pin, for the one built for myself out of the bed from my '91, I went with a 6 pin, to use the separate turn signals and to have back up lights on the trailer.

[OVRAROK]

With the truck bed conversions I have done as protects to sell I have just gone with just the 4 pin, for the one built for myself out of the bed from my '91, I went with a 6 pin, to use the separate turn signals and to have back up lights on the trailer.

I had to buy some magnetic trailer lights to get it home. Was thinking of using the long length of 4 pin to wire up.. maybe in future I can go 6 pin. Mainly using for camping trip, so I can bring EVERYTHING....

[Slabzilla]

Once again, another great project and idea that i've been batting around for a while and now people will know I'm copying you're great example.  Thanks for all your inspirations, keep'em coming.      

[OVRAROK]

Im a one man shop.. things sometimes need to be thought out. Like lifting of bed w/engine hoist. Slowly getting there.. have a few brackets that will be removed from frame. Then clean up, prep, paint frame..


Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[OVRAROK]

With the rain coming Saturday. I had to make a push to get frame completely cleaned up, removing all unnecessary brackets.. got it primered..will paint Monday. Still need to figure out spring perch width, get them welded on. Prime and paint axle housing.
Making progress...

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[Prismo]

I did a 6 pin on mine. I plan on wiring up a pump to the gas tank I will put in it. Add a marine quick connect fuel hose and I have 15 gallons of extra gas.

[OVRAROK]

I did a 6 pin on mine. I plan on wiring up a pump to the gas tank I will put in it. Add a marine quick connect fuel hose and I have 15 gallons of extra gas.

Good idea.. unfortunately I shaved all brackets off. But I have a few ideas on things I want to add.

[OVRAROK]

Found out the shackles where bent, they looked perfectly offset... thought about it, looked at frame to check alignment of spring. Came to the conclusion they where bent. Decided to straighten them out. Sandblasted, ready to paint. Didn't come out to bad.. ill purchase upgrade soon down the road...

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

[liveoak]

I would suggest using a 7 pin plug. it gives more options. I can already think of 7. 1. 12v on board battery(or just 12v from your truck for things like illumination) 2.Ground 3.Brake 4.Running Lights 5.Right Turn 6.Left Turn 7.Reverse