Topic: Cylinder 4, Intake Valve Stuck?? Cannot adjust clearance

[jssgbsn]

1985 4Runner 22RE

http://s977.photobucket.com/user/jssgbsn1/library/22RE%20Pics

I was adjusting my valves today and ran into an issue I cannot figure out.  I followed the FSM directions for adjusting the valves in a specific order.

The first round went fine.  The second round went fine except for Cyl.4 Intake Valve.  I could not adjust it at all.  I am including a 'photobucket' link with some pics in it.  One will show Cyl.4 Intake Valve Lock and Adjusting Screw opened up.  Another will show the rocker arm at the camshaft lobe.

I am not sure if the lobe position matters in order to adjust it, but included the pic just in case.  Or is it possible to have a 'stuck' valve??  I didn't wanna start tapping the valve for fear of breaking something.  Any suggestions?  Do I need a 'Spring Compressing Tool' if it is stuck.

Any help would be amazing.  I'm not driving until I can get this figured out so if anybody knows what to do please help.

I also included a couple other pics in the photobucket...

1.) Plastic timing guide rails looks good and do not have free play.
2.) Front of valve cover with a self gasket.  I am guessing whoever took the cover off last damaged the area with a pry tool and added the gasket-maker on there to seal it.  The Valve Cover still has it's true gasket.
3.) After putting cover back on I did not want to over tighten the valve cover bolts.  I added a pic showing how much 'bulge' exists on the grommet for the tightest bolt I put back on.  Hoping somebody knows if that is too tight or loose.
4.) Couple pics of a wire that hung on the exhaust header and burned up, I have pics of both ends of the wire. Wondering if anybody knows what the wire is for.

Again, any help would be appreciated.

[emsvitil]

linky no worky

[2manytoys]

No pics.

Not sure what you mean by "if lobe position matters". It definitely matters. You must be on the base circle of the cam lobe to adjust it. You can not be on the ramp at all.

[jssgbsn [OP]]

Not sure why the link won't work.  I don't think I have enough posts to upload pics directly but the the rocker arm was not on the 'base/lowest point'.

I think when I bought it somebody said it was not a stock camshaft.  In eithercase I am going back in today to figure out what went wrong.

TDC then rotate 360* to TDC seems fairly straight forward.  Especially when every other cyclinder was able to be adjusted. 

Could it be the camshaft design?  If so I am guessing i will need to start all over, TDC, make sure valve are still adjusted and just compare the lobe position to each other and then if I need to move away from TDC for the last valve, just try to make it appear in the same orientations.

Here is a recopied and pasted link.  Hope it works this time.

http://s977.photobucket.com/user/jssgbsn1/library/Intake%20Valve%20Cylinder%204

[jssgbsn [OP]]

oh...and if the pic link works you will see the rocker arm is not on the base 'circular part' but beginning to go up the ramp side.

[jssgbsn [OP]]

and I spoke with Jerry over at 22REPerformance and he said they will typically go off eyesight when adjusting the valves instead of the FSM instructions.

He said just make sure it is at the lowest (opposite end of high point) on the lobe and it should be fine.

He also recommended 7 and 11 on a cold engine instead of 8 and 12 on one at operating temp.  Go go in and redo all of them based on his recommendation and see if it works correctly.

I'd still like to here other peeps feedback on the valve issue and then the other pics assuming the 2nd link works.

[jssgbsn [OP]]

Valve Adjustment completed.

Here is what it sounds like.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7CjmeIf2wM

Hope this is good enough for know.

[emsvitil]

Glad you figured it out.........

Your picture showed that the rocker arm was definitely on the lobe, not the base circle.


The FSM has a method that completes the adjustment in 2 steps.     That method may not work on long-duration cams.    In that case you do it in 4 steps  (each cylinder at TDC with both valves closed)

[jssgbsn [OP]]

Thanks.

I just took the time and did each valve individually.

Intake side then Exhaust.

Started TDC, but then slowly turned the crank for each valve making sure the lobe was pointed straight down.

I meant to look at and take pictures of the camshaft to determine who made it, serial number, etc so i know what I got in there.  Oh well, no worries.

Sounds, feels and drives way better.  Next time I am taking a day to work on it, I'll probably pull the valve cover off again and then figure out what I got.

BTW, the contact point of the rocker arm on the cam is no longer convex but flat.  Does that mean I would end up replacing the entire rocker arm, or is that an insert of some type?  Just curious if anybody knows

[OOPS]

When ever you static adjust (not running) valves you need to adjust when the rocker is on the heel (lowest point) of the cam lobe. If not you will get a false reading.

[jssgbsn [OP]]

And the 'heel' is opposite of the 'lobe', right?

If the lobe is at 6 o'Clock then the heel should be at 12 o'clock, right?

Or should I be measuring the entire circumference to find that 'lowest point?