1980 w/3rz: Hog's Ride

Started by HogCanyonHopper, March 17, 2012, 01:41:32 PM

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HogCanyonHopper

Up about 1/2" more, springs closer to flat. The distance between flip plate and bump is 7". I'm thinking the pads should be around that height. Looks like 2-3" to go before the springs flatten out and I need to consider how much the stops will crush. I have steel pipe laying around that I thought about using for pads. Just weld some plate to the top and then weld it to the flip plate  :headscratch:  :dunno:  :flamer:

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Peterbuilt84

Drive the front of the truck up onto the tires if you're trying to figure out rear bump stops.

HogCanyonHopper

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HogCanyonHopper

Couple more with front up this time  :thumbs:




Does that spring look a little weird to you too :dunno:
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HogCanyonHopper

Quote from: toyotathomas on April 05, 2012, 06:31:33 PM
shackle angle looks off to me
Why do you think that? You realize thats with the front right tire stuffed?
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toyotathomas

Don't you think the shackle should be up more if your flexed?  To me the shackle angle looks to be where it would sit at ride height, but your articulated. :confused:

83 Crawler

Quote from: toyotathomas on April 06, 2012, 05:36:26 PM
Don't you think the shackle should be up more if your flexed?  To me the shackle angle looks to be where it would sit at ride height, but your articulated. :confused:

thats how mine sits when its on ground not flexed super kicked back


HogCanyonHopper

Yeah, that hanger could probably go forward an inch or so. With these new springs being so stiff and the ass end on this thing being so light, the shackles are almost straight up and down unless I get some weight in the bed. Unless the springs settle down a bit, I might end up moving the hangers :flamer:
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Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

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HogCanyonHopper

Hope to have this installed tomorrow and see how well it works. Very well made, looks easy to install. I will have to cut a slot for the rotor to clear. I'll post some pics when its installed.




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Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

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HogCanyonHopper

Had some exhaust work done today. I had the pipe moved over towards the trans so I would have a little more room to work with as far as clearance between the pipe and cross member. Before it was pretty much touching the cross member. Now I have a couple of inches or more which will allow me to raise the trans and achieve a flatter belly. I also had a Magnaflow cat installed which is quite a bit smaller than the stock one  :thumbs: (see pics). Also had a flange installed between header and cat so it will be easier to break down since the cat is now welded.  :flamer: Its nice to make improvements on something you thought you were done with.  :turtle:









Big Thank You's to my buddy Dave   :thumbsup:

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Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

My friend is goin to moan this weekend - RockcrawlinJK

HogCanyonHopper

Never seen a "uni-bit" before. Pretty cool way to get the right size hole for the O2 sensors.



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Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

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rcbro

Exhaust looks great... Is there any particular reason you went down the driver side? I'm been thinking about running mine down the driver and wrapping to the center of the truck just before the tank.. Do you see any issues with this? I plan to just pay someone to do the work for me. Just can't decide what to do...

HogCanyonHopper

I finally said thats it. I could never get rid of the exhaust leak where the header flange bolts to the downpipe. I have probably gone through a dozen donut gaskets and it would always leak. So, I welded it.  :flamer:  :yesnod:  :thumbs:


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Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

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HogCanyonHopper

Quote from: rcbro on April 24, 2012, 07:22:47 PM
Exhaust looks great... Is there any particular reason you went down the driver side? I'm been thinking about running mine down the driver and wrapping to the center of the truck just before the tank.. Do you see any issues with this? I plan to just pay someone to do the work for me. Just can't decide what to do...

Pretty sure I already answered that question previously in this thread. Wrap to the center?? Over the dl??
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Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

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84t0y

awesome truck for sure, i found one on craigslist that like the stock version of this truck.

86yoter

86' runner nothing special

HogCanyonHopper

Small update: I raised my x-member about an inch or so, achieving a slightly flatter belly. Picked up some round head carriage bolts for mounting the x-member. Worked out real nice. No bolt head sticking down anymore. The carriage bolts have a box shoulder under the round head which fit perfect in the slots on the x-member and made it easy tightening with a ratchet and 19mm socket  :thumbs: Also, you can see that I wrapped the pipe from the header to the cat to reduce heat. That flange right under the tranny is the only place the exhaust breaks down. By welding the header flange to the downpipe, I eliminated the exhaust leak (I hate exhaust leaks  :shake_head: ) and I think it runs better now. more later  :turtle:

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Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

My friend is goin to moan this weekend - RockcrawlinJK


Tankard

"Knowledge without experience is just information." -Mark Twain

86yoter

86' runner nothing special

HogCanyonHopper

Heres a few shots of the motor again. I moved the long positive cable that you can see in previous pics from behind the motor (  :screwy: stupid idea) to in front of the radiator and over to the fuse box. I also removed the shroud and have thought about the possibility of an electric fan.





My high-tech spacers for the x-member:



Some more shots of the exhaust with the wrap:



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Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

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HogCanyonHopper

Cant decide if I should run beadlocks or not  :dunno: What do you think??

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Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

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Tankard

If you're popping the beads off enough to be a hassle, then yah gets some. A standard steel wheel will generally hold a bead better than many aluminum wheels. If you want aluminum bead locks be sure to get a wheel that was born as a bead lock, for safety reasons. Weld on steel locks work well too if you use an anti coning ring between the clamping rings.
"Knowledge without experience is just information." -Mark Twain

Shamb

 just ran through the build, looks good. only comment is the rear shock mounts, i'd be affraid of catching it on a rock and bending or breaking it off.... other then that, awesome!


i wouldn't worry about beadlocks unless your popping beads all the time.... they can be a real PITA....
R.I.P to my Papa, I miss you pops......

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New Buildup in process 85' 4runner "Bad Decisions"
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Shamb

 nice meeting you at calrocs today, we'll have to get together and hit up fordyce or the con.

you planning on bobbing your longbed?
R.I.P to my Papa, I miss you pops......

Knowledge is power  www.pirate4x4.com/forum

New Buildup in process 85' 4runner "Bad Decisions"
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=52566.0

Check out my 1-ton build up thread
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=22600.0

HogCanyonHopper

Quote from: Shamb on May 12, 2012, 06:40:27 PM
nice meeting you at calrocs today, we'll have to get together and hit up fordyce or the con.

you planning on bobbing your longbed?

Sounds good to me. Today was fun, I had a great time. I do plan on bobbing the bed soon.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88478.0
Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

My friend is goin to moan this weekend - RockcrawlinJK