Topic: Issue with pinion nut after replacing seal.

[scott.475]

Guys, this is weird I think. I put a new Marlin HD seal in my '91. Before loosening the nut I marked the socket and flange and was SUPER careful when I counted the number of turns. 10 turns exactly to get the nut off. After I got the new flange in and went to tighten the nut I can only get it to 9 turns. I probably could have muscled it to 9.5, but was worried I might crush a sleeve or something in there more than I should. I have taken it back off a couple times to make sure I am counting right, now it is 9 turns on and off. The manual says the nut should be 145 ft-lbs, which takes it to exactly 9 turns.

So, what do y'all think? Is the 145 ft-lbs on the nut going to be okay? I'm really nervous now. Also, is it really necessary to check preload after doing this? Manual says it should be 8-11 in-lbs, but my wrench only goes down to 25. I guess I could spring for a beam type wrench if I need to.

Anyway, any advice on my pinion nut situation is appreciated. 

[4RunnerChevy]

Its done, in my opinion,  If its a crush sleeve, you need a new one.

[scott.475 [OP]]

Its done, in my opinion,  If its a crush sleeve, you need a new one.

If I over crushed the sleeve, wouldn't it tighten more than the 10 turns somewhat easily?

[jrock]

If there is no slop in the flange then your done. The crush sleeve is for pre-load on the pinion bearings only. As long as the flange can turn with a little smooth resistance your good.

9... 10... your good enough

[scott.475 [OP]]

9... 10... your good enough

Dude, this is making me laugh. Like those scenes out of Mr. Mom: "Whatcha gonna wire it in, 120?" "120, 121, whatever it takes"
"My God, what'd you use, a .38?" ".38, .39, whatever it takes."

[79coyotefrg]

torque to 145 dont worry about the number of turns on the pinion nut 

[jrock]

Dude, this is making me laugh. Like those scenes out of Mr. Mom: "Whatcha gonna wire it in, 120?" "120, 121, whatever it takes"
"My God, what'd you use, a .38?" ".38, .39, whatever it takes."

   

[Slolyfe]

Thats why specs are in 'ft-lbs' and not 'full nut rotations'. Your good to go.

[scott.475 [OP]]

Okay guys, appreciate everyone's help, but still quite nervous about this. I decided to go ahead and put a new pinion nut on, so today I redid everything. I noticed when I had the flange off that the pinion would slide into the housing a bit, so I put the flange on, then the nut just a little, then pulled on the flange to pull the pinion out as I started tightening, figuring this would seat the bearings correctly before tightening. Tightened it down to 145, and now the pinion feels much harder to move than before, significantly harder than the front end.

Should I have just let the nut pull the spindle into place instead of holding it out with the flange? I'm thinking now I should just pull the pumpkin all together and do it that way. Sorry for seeming paranoid, I just don't want to burn up the gears or anything. I suppose my only risk on this particular issue would be burning up the pinion bearings, no?

[2manytoys]

Check out gearinstalls.com. You'll learn a lot!

[scott.475 [OP]]

Okay, went out this morning, jacked up the rear end and pulled off the wheels in anticipation of pulling the third. After I got the wheels off I went under and gave the flange a turn and it moved way smooth without the weight of the wheels/tires. Tested with a torque wrench and it seems to be good, so I feel a lot better about it now. I guess I should have known the weight of the wheels would do this, but at least I will know for next time.

Thanks everyone for your input. This all came about because I was putting in a new Marlin HD clutch, so looking forward to see how that works. The old one was in bad, bad shape.

[jrock]

Just run it for a while. Then check it again. Remember, the pre load is suppose to be measured this the third removed. So mostly check that the resistance is smooth with the tires and even the drums off