Topic: My 1983 SR5 Long Bed Build.

[loctupdave]

Okay....

I spent the day plumbing in the main lines and manifold for the air compressor. I used 3/8 inch air hose by Goodyear. All the fittings after the oil separator are 1/4 pipe. The line into the oil separator from the compressor is 3/8 air brake line with a 3/8 inch pipe connection to the separator. The manifold includes an adjustable pop off valve, 90-120 psi switch and a 0-160 psi gauge. The gauge is on a tee and one end is plugged at this time, I might install a dash gauge from this source. The tank has two lines from it at this time. One goes to the manifold and the other to the regulator for the ARB system. I have enough fittings and tubing to finish the job, must have spent $100.00 on the darn things. I stopped there because the next stuff requires removing the dash again and that will happen after I run the wire and relays for all of the lights. The air lines for the ARBs will run into the cab with the light wires and propane controls. The tank is plugged at the other end, I intend to install a coupler for an air line at that end.

The manifold is mounted on the edge of the stock battery tray and under the air cleaner. I can see most of the manifold from the top and the oil separator from the passenger side.





The lines from the tank.



And the location of the regulator.



I removed the 5 inch shackles and installed six inch shackles.



Her butt does not sag anymore. I hate saggy butts.

[chandogg]

  this rig is too sick. I'm starting to hate you.  Keep up the clean work.

[nisota]

I'm down with the saggy  not sure why but I always liked my rear about 1" shorter. But NEVER the rear higher then the front either level or 1" rear sag. Very nice work I love your truck more with every post.

[Cheesemaker]

I like the rear of my rigs higher in the back.  Because, I have tendency to be hauling weight alot of times.  And a couple hundred pounds can make that 1" drop like a 2".   Then when your hauling firewood, I don't want to be riding the bumpstops.  Cause that makes the steering get all Squirrely.   

[nisota]

I agree with that, I try and not haul weight with my crawler but it does happen sometimes (Fat chicks) then im driving like this  squirrely like you said.

[suprawheeler]

I like the progress. Looks like you will be ready for what the trail sets in front of you.

[loctupdave [OP]]

Thanks for the kind words...

I have installed the 1/4 inch tubing for the front and rear ARB's I used brass fittings from HD for the job. I also installed the lines from the regulator to the cab.

Front


Rear


I ran the front line from the diff to the right brake line and up to the cab.


The rear line runs from the diff to the brake line then along the frame rail to the cab.



The lines are ready for the dash. I left them sticking out of the glove box.




I also installed all of the switches.
 The switches next to the hvac controls are wind shied washer pump, front spots, front floods, rear floods and radiator fan. The wind shield washer pump switch failed on the column, that is why it is included. The lower switches are compressor, front ARB and rear ARB. As mentioned in earlier post, the two ARB switches are air switches.

[loctupdave [OP]]

I had a hell of a time finding a fuse holder that would support a 40 amp fuse, for the lights. I looked at almost every auto parts store, no luck. I went to Best Buy, no luck. I finally found them at Walmart. I bought two fuse boxes, they use the Maxi type fuses. I installed one with two 20 amp fuses and the other with one 40 amp fuse. The 40 amp fuse box handles 4 100 watt flood lights. The two 20 amp fuses handle the two rear floods and two spot lights. I also installed 3 relays with 40 amp contacts. The wiring to the fuses are 10g and the wires to the lights are 12g. After wiring in the relays and fuses, I tested the relays and all worked. I managed to wire in the rear floods, they too were tested.

Here are the pics.

The fuses and relays are located behind the passenger seat. I built a bracket to support them and bolted it to the floor.



The wires for the rear floods are clipped behind the winch and cannot be seen from behind the truck. I grounded the lights to the frame.



Lighting up my dirty bench.



... and the lights burning bright.

[loctupdave [OP]]

Yesterday I wired in the forward floods and spot lights.



... and tested them.



Today I plumbed the air switches, I am waiting on push to connect unions. I also wired all other switches and cigarette lighter.

[loctupdave [OP]]

I do not have much to show. I installed the dash and finished the wiring and air plumbing for it. All items mentioned in the earlier post work. I filled the air tank, using my shop compressor. This allowed me to set the variable pop off valve and check the arb's to see if they leaked or locked up. The system drops 10 PSI over a 4 hour time frame. The arb's lock up and do not leak. The arb regulator is set at 85 psi also. All lights work and so does the radiator fan controller. The dash can be removed by unplugging the switch harness, heater harness, arb air lines and cables for the heater box, nothing is hard wired or plumbed.

[HogCanyonHopper]

Looks real good man!! Nice job 

[loctupdave [OP]]

I don't think I posted the exhaust system. I built it out of 2 inch emt. The emt is about the same size as 2.25 exhaust pipe but a bit thicker. At the time I did not have access to a tube bender, so I bought "U" and "L" shaped pieces and cut them to fit. I expanded the ends to fit over the pipe that was to be welded. With all of that, this is what I came up with.



The reason it is out of the truck is, I wanted to weld in the air fuel ratio bung. Looks a little rough but it is welded all around and will not leak. I also want to replace the exhaust tip that is why it is not painted.

[loctupdave [OP]]

The exhaust is back in.



I was working on the gauge pod and propane control. This meant I had to install the O2 sensor.
The sensor connector.



... and the sensor. It is located about 4 inches below the header flange.



The silver cable is the push pull cable that opens the mixer for gasoline or closes it for propane.



The silver can behind the ac line is the valve that shuts off gasoline to the carb. It is wired to a two way switch in the cab. The gold tab on the air cleaner is part of a cam system that pushes opens or closes the mixer for gasoline or propane, the cable is attached to it.



The air/fuel and vacuum gauges, then the propane controls. The air/fuel gauge is warming up that is why it is reading 14.9, the engine is not running. I did test the MSD, that thing puts out one hell of a spark.



 

[loctupdave [OP]]

I haven't posted for a couple of weeks but, I have been working. The stuff I was working on was wiring. When I ordered the relays for the flood and spot lights, I ordered a couple extra with the idea to install for use with the headlights. Last weekend I built a harness using 12g wire. I have a couple 90/130 watt headlight bulbs that will require a bit more than the stock 16g wire.
Not much to show, I parked the relays next to the under hood fuse blocks.



I also finished plumbing in the propane setup. Looking forward to tuning that setup. I have the old steel bottles in the back of the truck, the aluminum bottles need o-rings.



I have been setting on a set of MSD 8.5 mm universal spark plug wires. I assembled and installed them last weekend.



I took off work early to get to the steel place. I ordered a stick of 1.5 X 3/6 angle and a stick of 1.5 X 3/16 flat stock for a jerry can holder project. Really it is not one of my best weld jobs, I have been welding on loader buckets for the last couple weeks and am pretty tired of making another pass. Anyway, they are done.

[loctupdave [OP]]

For the last couple weeks I have been chasing electrical problems. Most of them are from the damn alternator charge light. It turns out the flipping alternator must have a bad diode in it. I wired in the load to the charge light circuit and the damn light stayed on. I pretty much disassembled the harness flowing the charge light, then gave up and ran a wire directly to a light bulb then to a 10 amp keyed fuse, that light stayed on too. Screw it for now no bulb.
As for other issues the gas, temp and oil pressure gauges were not working. The gas gauge has a little capacitor behind the dash it failed. I replaced it with a solder in .1uf capacitor from radio shack. The temp gauge had a failed sender. The oil pressure gauge had a bad wire from the gauge to the sender. I replaced the wire. Does not sound like much but, when your started the engine up a couple years ago and everything worked. then did a bunch of changes you start scratching your head, wondering what I could have done to effect that.
The heavy wire I set the keyed fuse panel on the fender, was not keyed. So I installed a relay and ran a small keyed wire to it. This is what powers the keyed fuse panel now.

It is the relay closest to the fan controller.



I also installed the MSD timing controller. The box is located behind the in cab fuse box on the kick panel. Not a very good pic but here it is.



I wanted to put the dial close to the propane controls so this is where it is now parked.



Oh yea as mentioned before. I started the engine. Most systems worked well. The alternator charges great. The air system works extremely well, the compressor charges my tank to 120 in 2 minutes at 1200 rpms. No oil measured in the oil collector. The tach adapter works. The timing controller is set to 0 the timing at the crank is 5 degrees when the controller is at 15 the crank is at 20 degrees. No starting issues when the engine is hot either. The only problem I have is steering. The pump wines like two fighting cats. I worked that steering back and forth over 100 times, both engine off and running. I removed lines to get the air out, removed the ram to point the fittings up. The thing still wines at anything off idle, but it is quiet when at idle. I have given up on this pump and ordered a TG unit.

That is all that has been going on.

[loctupdave [OP]]

Seats are installed. They are wired in also, the old girl has power seats now.

[HogCanyonHopper]

those are some nice looking seats. 

[tgmaul88]

may I ask what type seats they are?   

[loctupdave [OP]]

They came out of a 2001 Dodge Intrepid

[tgmaul88]

please do tell me how they work out off road,   if they are a good seat I may look for some

[Toy-Cra-Ze]

Direct  fit?

[loctupdave [OP]]

The fit on the front seat rail was exact. The rear was a different story, I drilled holes in the floor about 1/4 inch from the original holes and used large washers to mount the rear seat of the seat rails.

[Toy-Cra-Ze]

Okay well thanks let us know how you like them!!

[THK Matt]

I had a set of cloth seats from a honda prelude in my 87 like 5 years ago. most comfortable seats ive sat in. for some reason toyota didnt get it right back then lol

[loctupdave [OP]]

The seats were bought with the thought of being cheep. They are pretty easy on the butt compared with what was in the truck originally. So time will tell if they will stay.

The TG pump arrived. I had to modify the stock pump bracket to get it to fit, or buy their bracket. I decided to use what I had a modified. I used 3/16 material to build a small plate to support the back of the pump. I then cut the back of the bracket off and welded in the plate I made. The TG pump is not as long as the stock unit. I then peened the back of pump, using a piece of paper, this was used to locate the holes on the rear of the pump. I carefully drilled one of the holes from the front, attempting to keep the drill as straight as possible. Then I used the peened paper to locate the other two, and the hole in the front of the bracket for the pumps third mounting hole. When all was said and done it fit and aligned to the other pulleys fine. The bracket is out drying under paint but was fitted and removed, pics were taken then.

[loctupdave [OP]]

The power steering pump is installed and is working great...at least it is quiet.
I started the engine on propane also. The mixer is adjusted for idle and is reading 14.5 on the AF meeter. The truck definitely runs smoother and the exhaust fumes are not as harsh as gasoline. Once it was tuned it seemed to start easier too.
Stuff that is left to do.
Finish the interior. Carpet is all that is left.
Bleed the brakes and clutch.
Install the High Lift jack.
Buy a shovel and install a mount on the back of the truck with the High lift.
...I am going to say it, this thing will be ready to drive by the end of the week end.

[Cheesemaker]

Who needs Carpet, it just gets dirty.  Bleed the brakes and roll it!!   

[loctupdave [OP]]

Last week turned out to be a bust. My wife surprised me with a wedding I had to go to. The wedding was on Saturday and recovery was on Sunday. Those Catholics no how to put on a party.

Yesterday I finished the carpet install. That sucked to say the least. A friend came over for a electric fan install. I then had him help me with bleeding the brakes and clutch. I then took it for a small drive and found a few things wrong. First was, this thing has no brakes. Not a good feeling to have to pump when not expecting this problem. The trans did not want to stay in first and third. Definitely not a good sign. The shifter needed a seat also, so I hoped this would correct the problem, it was a hope not a experienced opinion. When I stepped on the brakes the right front turn signal would come on. It was about 9:00 PM and I was finished.
Today I fixed the brakes, the spacer that I built for the brake booster has a extension for the rod that connects to the brake pedal. This extension has a built in adjustment and I simply adjusted it, then I had pedal. I also set up the proportioning valve, locking up the wheels on old asphalt is tough on tires. This is part of the reason I am keeping the 33's for a while. I will be getting 35's in the future. I then went to Toyota and picked up a seat for the shifter, yes our dealer is open on Sunday, pretty amazing for Wichita, KS. I installed it then tackled the light issue. I checked the relay setup I did and found no connection with the light. I looked at a few other areas and gave up. I simply ran a wire from the relay to the front light and taped back the existing wire. Problem solved. Took the truck out for another drive and the trans was howling in second and third and popping out of 1st if did not rest my hand on the shifter.
It looks like I will start the trans rebuild this weak after I pull it of course.

A few pics of the truck out of the garage.

[loctupdave [OP]]

Well there you have it, the trans is apart and the failure is found. The bearing behind first gear that is mounted in the intermediate plate, was on it's way out. The kit is ordered and should be here next week. 

[loctupdave [OP]]

I hate waiting with not much to do so I figured I would build and install the high lift jack mounts. I simply bent material and welded a bolt through the mounting surface. They act as studs to hold it up there when bolting it down. I always seem to have a 3/4 wrench in my tool stash so no need to use some sort of wing nut to hold the jack in place.
Here are a couple of pics.