Author Topic: My 1983 SR5 Long Bed Build. (Read 104253 times)

loctupdave · « **Reply #210 on:** Dec 12, 2011, 02:52:55 PM »

Thanks again THK

Took off work after lunch and came home. I cut material for the driver side fender. I welded it under the hole that the marker light is located. Then filled the other side with body filler.

The inner side of the fender. I will use seam sealer on this side.

The outer side of the fender.

Zs Confederate Toy · « **Reply #211 on:** Dec 12, 2011, 03:18:09 PM »

Good job. Looks alot better without a marker light

THK Matt · « **Reply #212 on:** Dec 12, 2011, 06:10:47 PM »

interesting!

BHT12 · « **Reply #213 on:** Dec 14, 2011, 12:07:53 PM »

Nice that looks good.. i never thought about doing that.. looks really good.

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #214 on:** Dec 14, 2011, 05:29:19 PM »

Oh man, those markers are a classic touch! Still looks good, though.

loctupdave · « **Reply #215 on:** Dec 25, 2011, 09:31:46 AM »

I been working on a York 210 compressor install. I decided to use it rather than the MV50. I like the idea of having the CFM to use air tools.
Thanks for the complements.
What I have done so far is make the front angle that attaches to the front cover. I picked up 3 bolts there. Then I made a bracket that will also pick up three holes on the block. The problem is I cut the front angle too short.

I found the bracket build on line, I believe the guys name was Eric. He did a great job suppling pics, but man I could have used a measurement or two. His bracket seems pretty stout and allows the retention of a compressor for air conditioning.

Here is a pic of how it sets now. More detail will follow as I build the next front bracket.

loctupdave · « **Reply #216 on:** Dec 28, 2011, 11:04:43 AM »

First I made cardboard templates and traces them to 2"X1/4" angle. After cutting and drilling I welded a 2"X1/4" bar stock to the side of the angle, this was done to move the compressor away from the block. I also welded in washers for spacers, they were needed on the two upper bolts in the front and on the lower bolt in the rear.The materials below are laid out in the order used. The piece on the right is the finished angle.

Using more cardboard for a template, I cut a piece of 1/4" plate to weld behind the angle. This is for support and a weld area for the top compressor bracket. The two holes on the side of the front angle are for the York compressor.

A front view of the angle mounted to the front cover.

A rear view of the York. I had it hanging on the front bolts only. This was to measure the location of the rear top hole and measure a piece of 2"X1/4" angle for the lower bolt mount.

The top compressor mount was done with plate and bar stock. I did not get any pics of the build but I do need to take it apart for paint and will get pics then.

It is tough to see in this pic but the gussets can be seen from the rear, for the top compressor plate.

The rear lower angle for the York. This might help with how long the angle must be.

The tensioner was mounted on a plate with spacers for the York and bolted directly on the AC compressor. I cut the adjuster from a 1986 Toyota AC bracket. It turns out it is cast steel and welds nicely.

A front view of the pulleys as now it is finished and waiting to be disassembled for paint.

When the brackets are disassembled I will get pics of them.

loctupdave · « **Reply #217 on:** Dec 28, 2011, 02:37:44 PM »

The remaining pics

THK Matt · « **Reply #218 on:** Dec 28, 2011, 03:17:22 PM »

thats gonna be a lot drag on the engine, holy belts & accessories

BHT12 · « **Reply #219 on:** Dec 28, 2011, 06:50:49 PM »

Wow... Thats quite the set up.. good work though!!

BananaSlugg · « **Reply #220 on:** Dec 29, 2011, 10:37:32 AM »

Incredible build dude, very thorough. Should make for and amazing finished product.

loctupdave · « **Reply #221 on:** Jan 05, 2012, 10:24:15 AM »

Thanks guys. I hope this build finishes as good as you guys feel.

Quote from: THK on Dec 28, 2011, 03:17:22 PM

thats gonna be a lot drag on the engine, holy belts & accessories

Naw, AC and OBA will not be on together, I think I will add a relay to the system so only one can be on at a time.

No pics of the recent work. The rear of the frame has been cleaned, rust treated and painted with flat black.
I also cut the rear shackle mounts off and moved them forward. I'm about to spread truck bed coating on the frame and do not want to clean that stuff of later to move spring shackle hangers.

Jokeass-Wheelers · « **Reply #222 on:** Jan 06, 2012, 08:15:28 AM »

i like the set up with the air and what not its interesting have you got the motor in yet? or no

loctupdave · « **Reply #223 on:** Jan 06, 2012, 09:59:49 AM »

The engine will go in after painting the frame and engine compartment.

russty · « **Reply #224 on:** Jan 18, 2012, 11:48:05 AM »

nice man!

this is a very clean build. i like it.

loctupdave · « **Reply #225 on:** Feb 05, 2012, 10:34:39 AM »

Thanks russty.

What I have been up to is cleaning the underside of the cab. I attacked the area where the rear transmission output shaft was located. It had a leak and was fixed a long time ago, but I did not clean under the cab. The first thing I used was a wire wheel; this did nothing but spray the crap all over me. The next thing I used was about 2.5 gallons of brake clean. That was like peeing in the wind. So the next thing I will use is oven cleaner. I have decided before I do that I better clear every thing out of the engine bay. I did leave only hard lines that I want paint on them, like brake, fuel and clutch. I also left the steering shaft and steering box in place. They will take paint also.

I have also changed my mind on the paint scheme. Rust Oleum makes a bed liner product in two colors, black and tan. The bumper and anything that was chrome will also be painted black. The texture is sort of like anti skid tape. I plan on painting the cab tan and the frame and flatbed black. I like this stuff over the CARC paint because of the rubberized texture and repairable ability. I have been thinking over the color for under the hood. I guess I am going to stay with black, for under the hood and engine bay. I will not be using the Rust Oleum paint for this because, it does not like temps over 200 deg.

Next I will be waiting for a warm day to move the truck outside so I can hose it down after the over cleaner has done its job.

Here are a couple pics of the small amount of progress.

UndefinedTaco · « **Reply #226 on:** Feb 12, 2012, 09:33:27 PM »

Really nice build so far, love it!
love the York bracket

loctupdave · « **Reply #227 on:** Feb 25, 2012, 08:26:03 AM »

Thanks Taco,

The engine bay is painted.

Now I wait for warm weather to paint the rest of the rig.

loctupdave · « **Reply #228 on:** Mar 12, 2012, 07:53:17 AM »

A small teaser what color the truck will be. The Toyota logo on the side of the fender will be painted flat black. The paint is wet in the pic, when dry it will be a flat beige.

THK Matt · « **Reply #229 on:** Mar 13, 2012, 10:16:04 AM »

Very NICE Dave.

loctupdave · « **Reply #230 on:** Mar 18, 2012, 04:08:15 PM »

With work and the stuff my wife thinks is fun to do, I find myself pulled away from what I would really like to do, my truck.
Today I started sanding the grill and light frame assemblies. I used 180 grit because I want the paint to stick and the paint is pretty gritty too. I used spray on Rustoleum Bed Liner for the grill and frames.

I also worked on the driver side fender. While prepping the inner side of the fender and wire wheeling some, what I thought was surface rust, turn into holes. So I cleaned up the mess and fixed the holes, then painted both sides of the fender.

Here is a blurry pic of both fenders.

loctupdave · « **Reply #231 on:** Apr 16, 2012, 05:19:25 PM »

I hate that I have not had a bunch of time to work on old girl. About the only thing I have got accomplished is the hood since the last post. I had some trouble with it the tan bed coating I put on the hood, it looked blotchy. I sanded four coats away and applied 4 more with the same results. I then went out and bought a bottle of khaki and put that on the hood, problem solved, and I like the color more anyway. With the additional coats of khaki the gritty texture comes through with out appearing as if it was painted. I then painted the fenders to match. I also removed the 4X4 badge from the fenders and painted them black, they look pretty good. I don't have any pics they would look like I did not do anything anyway.

I have been thinking of how I was going to put propane on this thing and gave Nash Fuel a call. Bill Nash, the owner, is a hell of a guy. He spent way to much time talking to me on this stuff. He came up with a kit that will work with my carb and allow me to still run gasoline. To be fair I did call Gotpropane before Nash, the guy I talked to was friendly but did not have anything that would work for what I wanted to do. I guess there is a shortage of the elbow that fits on top of the carb, Bill Nash said he was able to grab a limited supply before the elbows were no longer available from the manufacture. For those who want to use a stock carb, Bill said that he was working on on a adapter that will fit the dual fuel system to that carb, he sounded close and might be ready to sell them now.

Well look what came in the mail today.

This is a dual fuel setup for a 22r with a Holley carb. The elbow on the left of the pic is the part that is pretty rare. I would also like to note that Nash made the setup pretty easy most fittings are in the location they belong. They will need to be removed and Teflon coated and attached to what hose they belong to. By the directions this looks pretty easy to install.
I also bought two 33.5 lb tanks, they will be installed behind the cab vertically. I asked Nash to send enough clamps for one tank. Each tank will get one clamp and mounted to a plate that is welded to the front of the bed, or I may cut the brackets from the clamps and weld legs on them, then weld the legs to the floor of the bed.

I also bought a MSD timing advance box for the MSD 6A that will be going in the truck.

loctupdave · « **Reply #232 on:** May 06, 2012, 11:05:20 AM »

Not much new. Seems like prepping for paint takes a bunch of time, and the fact that I hate doing it, painting takes longer.
I finished the inside floor. I Herculined the inside with two thick coats. I am not installing this stuff for any thing other than rust protection. Since I had a quart of the Herculiner opened I put a coat under the cab also. The pic under the cab is a bit out of focus, I will take another when the second coat is applied and the frame is done.

loctupdave · « **Reply #233 on:** May 21, 2012, 01:07:44 PM »

I have finished the Herculiner under the cab and the rear frame.

I also have one coat on the wheel wells and the left front frame. I kept a rag soaked in Xylene to wipe off any stray brush strokes.

I stopped behind the right front shackle. I felt that I needed to do more work on the IFS box mount, I do not feel like removing Herculiner to do it. What I needed to do was box or cap the brackets. I cut a piece of 1/4 inch material and bent it with my press brake. Then welded it in.

OldGold3VZE · « **Reply #234 on:** May 21, 2012, 07:17:41 PM »

Wow, that'll keep the rust away! This thing should last forever.

loctupdave · « **Reply #235 on:** May 28, 2012, 11:51:35 AM »

...I hope it will.

I finished sloping on that Herculiner. I am so glad that is done, brushing that stuff over head is messy to say the least.
While the truck is still in the air, I have it on jack stands; I thought to start on the hydraulic assist cylinder. To mount it to the rear of the axle, I bent a piece of 2" X 1/4" stock for the top and the same piece not bent for the bottom. I also drilled both pieces to accept a 3/4" bolt. As seen below.

Then I cut a couple of plates from the same material, for gusseting and additional axle surface to weld to. They were tacked to the top pieces then the unit was fully welded in. Below is the finished bracket. I have to let it cool to move on.

nisota · « **Reply #236 on:** May 28, 2012, 01:53:10 PM »

Awesome build I like what you are doin & have done with this 1st gen.

loctupdave · « **Reply #237 on:** May 28, 2012, 04:57:48 PM »

Thanks Nisota, I hope your build is great. I will take a look soon.

The cylinder is mounted, mostly, The bracket and tie rod need painting. Now the truck can come off of the stands. I am going to install the trans, engine and drive shafts next. I need them out of the way for room to paint the cab.
Pics of the cylinder.

nisota · « **Reply #238 on:** May 28, 2012, 05:13:53 PM »

Ha im just starting my build it should be underway soon.

loctupdave · « **Reply #239 on:** Jun 03, 2012, 05:10:15 PM »

Today was the only time I had this week to work on the truck. I spent today working on the steering box. I did a quick search and found a youtube video, How-To: Toyota Power Steering Box Hydraulic Assist Mod - YouTube, and went to it. Most of the stuff the guy did was correct. Well it may all be correct, but not for my application. One note to make, I did read the stuff on marlincrawler's site, but did this a long time ago. With time I forget most everything, including, where I left my beer. The problem was he, the guy on youtube, said to drill and tap between the "D" and "A". And that is exactly what I did. This would have worked great if the fitting needed for the hose did not hit the front engine compartment and frame mount. So I removed the box, disassembled and cleaned the box. Then drilled and tapped in the area near the top of the sector shaft, it should be clear in the pics. Now the unit fits in the truck without any fittings making contact with the frame or body. Damn, I should have revisited Marlins Forum before I started.

The nest pics will cover the initial fitting locations. Sorry for the blurry image, but you should get the just of it.

To fix the area I drilled first, I just simply put a 1/4" plug in it, with Teflon tape.

The new location.

Inside engine bay view.

Left wheel well view.

...Between looking for fittings and a tap that is all that I managed to get done.

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