Topic: Valve stem seals

[hotrod]

So I'm a dumbass and completely forgot about valve stem seals when I rebuilt my motor and now it burns oil pretty good.  Ive seen a couple people "say" they've changed them without removing the headbolts.  But I can't get the rocker arm far enough over to get the spring keeper out.

To anyone who has successfully changed these little devils in the truck, How!?! Special spring compressor? Or is it really impossible without removing headbolts/rocker assembly?

[GNasty 82]

While I think you could use this:http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Overhead-Valve-Compressor-Autocraft_9019987-P_N3491_T%7CGRP2083____ to compress the springs w/o removing the head, I think it would be a bad idea as there is a possibility of the valve falling into piston, forcing you to remove the head anyway, and possibly damaging the valve.  IMO, remove the head, I know it's a pain being that you just rebuilt, but it doesn't take too long. 

[hotrod [OP]]

I actually have that exact same spring compressor. There was just too much "stuff" in the same place to get the keeper out. Rocker, compressor, keeper.
I used the rope through the sparkplug hole to keep the valve in place.

I'm afraid I might just have to find some time and break it all down and pull the head.

[GNasty 82]

Umm, it's been awhile since I rebuilt a 22re, so refresh my memory, but don't you have to remove the rocker assembly anyway to get the spring compressed to remove the keeper?

[hotrod [OP]]

Umm, it's been awhile since I rebuilt a 22re, so refresh my memory, but don't you have to remove the rocker assembly anyway to get the spring compressed to remove the keeper?

From everything Ive found out personally, yes.
But I've read a few people say you can do it without removing the rocker assembly.  I think they're blowin smoke(no pun intended) and have never done it themselves.  I want to see if anyone has actually done it.  Not just thought it would work.

[zippo]

This is an easy thing to fix. You need to get a adapter that screws into the sparkplug hole and allows you to pressurize the cylinder. Also used for a leak down test. This keeps the valve up. You then use a spring comressor as linked below, pop the valve key out and the slip the seal on. Reinstall the key and release the spring.

If you have problems with the seal, and need to removed the spring, keep the spring compressed, put a small clip or rubber band on the valve stem to keep it from falling down to far, remove the pressure allow the valve to drop. twist and pull and pop the spring out.

NO PROBLEMS! 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/valve-spring-compressor/p2004246.jcwx?skuId=166269&TID=8014524FT4&zmam=15972153&zmas=21&zmac=141&zmap=142556

[hotrod [OP]]

Now that style spring compressor looks much better.  Might have to try to find one like that and give it a go.

[emsvitil]

Ages ago I replaced a broken valve spring (#4 I) on a 20R with a valve spring compressor like the one GNasty82 linked too.

Didn't have to remove the head, but did have to remove the rocker arm assembly.

Don't pressurize the cylinders as there's nothing holding them down.     Make sure the piston is at TDC for the valves you're working on.    If the valve drops, it's recoverable with the piston at TDC.

Make sure you don't disturb the head position and you should get away with it.    Engine had something like 200,000 on it when I did it, no leaks afterwards.

If your paranoid, you can put the head bolts back in with a stack of washers while your working on it..........

[zippo]

Don't pressurize the cylinders as there's nothing holding them down.     Make sure the piston is at TDC for the valves you're working on.    If the valve drops, it's recoverable with the piston at TDC.

Holding what down? Pressurizing the cylinder is proper. The idea is not to allow the valve to move at all. Ive done it this way on many different engines, and it works great. It's how most manuals tell you todo it.

With your way its possible to drop, bend or damage the valve. My way their isn't.

[emsvitil]

Holding what down? Pressurizing the cylinder is proper. The idea is not to allow the valve to move at all. Ive done it this way on many different engines, and it works great. It's how most manuals tell you todo it.

With your way its possible to drop, bend or damage the valve. My way their isn't.

The rockre arm assembly is in the way of pulling the valve springs off

To remove the rocker arms and assembly, you remove the head bolts.

So unless you put a stack of washers under the head bolt and reinstall them, air pressure might pop the head off the block.    If that happens, I wouldn't trust the head gasket to seal again.

[zippo]

I see no issue removing the spring without removing teh head, the rock arms can slide around a good deal and with the spring compressed, and valve moved down a little, it would pop right out.

Though depending on teh type of spring. I see no reason to remove it to install the seal. Again some prings need to be removed and other don't.



The rocker is flipped 180, but if you remove the sets screw, leave the spring compressed i see no reason the spring won't come out.

[Steve_925]

i've replaced a valve spring on my old 3.0 with compresion tester hooked to an air supply. never even used a spring compresser

[hotrod [OP]]

It should work with the side style spring compressor.  The overhead style I used didn't work though.  I'm going to order that compressor and give it a go.  Couldn't find anything like it around town.

[H8PVMNT]

Last time I did this I just filled up the cylinder with spent 22 shells so the valves stayed up.  To eject the 22 shells just crank over the engine with the coil wire unhooked...  They will fly right out of the spark plug hole!

Just kidding .  If it were me I would just pull off the head.  It's not that hard compared to all the messing around to do it with the head on there.