Topic: front shackles

[yoter4x4]

what does it take to run a longer spring on the front of an 83 pickup? i picked up a set of super soft leafs for the front of my truck, but they are about 1.5"s longer than stock leafs, when i put them one they sent my stock shackle straight to the frame rail... so i built a set of 6" shackles to make up for the length, and now they are also against the frame... is there something i'm missing? they are soft so they compress more than my old skyjackers did with the weight of the truck, i removed a leaf from them and now i'm thinking about re installing the leaf to try and fix my shackle problem; they are currently  3 leaf pack as of now.

thanks for any help guys, pics of your setups are muchly appreciated!

[yoter4x4 [OP]]

someone told me a boomerang shackle would work, but i know nothing about them

[yoter4x4 [OP]]

[kneedownnate]

Boomerang shackles will help, but your springs are too long for your current tube.  Looks like it should ideally be about where the brace for the body mount is now.

[yoter4x4 [OP]]

 yeah im thinkin about the bomerang..... but these shackles now are 6" bolt to bolt, i think the boomerang would have to be like 8" bolt to bolt to even help at all... which is extremely long i would think. on the boomerang would you recommend start the bend of the shackle 2 inches after the frame bolt? or begin the bend in the middle of the shackle? thanks man

[crazykooter]

I wouldnt even bother with the boomerang shackles. Even if they are not hitting the frame sitting when you hit a bump or even turn they will likely hit.  The best and most correct way to correct this would be to get a drop front hanger which could be welded on the 1" or so forward.  This would correct your shackle angles as well as move your front axle an 1" or so forwards giving you a better approach angle.  Then again if your gonna go that far then you mind as well do a rears up front setup.

[GONZO97]

I wouldnt even bother with the boomerang shackles. Even if they are not hitting the frame sitting when you hit a bump or even turn they will likely hit.  The best and most correct way to correct this would be to get a drop front hanger which could be welded on the 1" or so forward.  This would correct your shackle angles as well as move your front axle an 1" or so forwards giving you a better approach angle.  Then again if your gonna go that far then you mind as well do a rears up front setup.

which could also lead to having to push your steering box forward (in some cases)

[IronClad]

yeah im thinkin about the bomerang..... but these shackles now are 6" bolt to bolt, i think the boomerang would have to be like 8" bolt to bolt to even help at all... which is extremely long i would think. on the boomerang would you recommend start the bend of the shackle 2 inches after the frame bolt? or begin the bend in the middle of the shackle? thanks man

Reguardless of how the shackle is shaped its still a straight line from bolt hole to bolt hole so no they dont have to be longer.

[yoter4x4 [OP]]

ok thanks guys ruf was my original idea until i got these springs. what advice can you give me on putting the rears up front so i know what to expect?

[crazykooter]

Get a few good sawzall blades for cutting steel or a plasma which is easiest. Once u have ur springs off start cutting off the original spring hangers so they are flush with the bottom of the frame.  Then grind away to get it smooth. Once youve done that its all cake walk from there.  Just get the marlin drop front spring hanger and align it with the very leading edge of the frame rail. On 1st gen trucks the frame rail sticks out near a 1/2" and on the 2nd gen its maybe an 1/8" to 1/4".  You can read marlins walk thru on how to do it but with a factory straight axle getting the springs set up is the easy part. 
Here is the downside to a rears up front.  Your gonna have to run hi steer since the factory push pull will not work.  So get an ifs steering box and the hi steer setup before you do your spring swap.  Just a little note u can stay with push pull steering but you need a drop steering rod which goes from the steering box to the J arm.  Imo this only makes it street worthy. If you try and wheel it like this the springs will come up and hit the steering. In other words its worth it just to do the hi steer at the same time.

[yoter4x4 [OP]]

cool thanks crazy. my truck already has hi steer so the hard part is done! this sounds pretty easy

[GONZO97]

dont forget you may have to move that ifs steering box forward like i had too... but marlin sells a mounting kit to do it which makes it pretty easy

[Nimyad]

i did ruf on my 81. didn't move the front hanger at all, moved the shackle back a couple inches though. with my 35's i don't hit anywhere on the fender and you don't have to cut anything off, just a new mount in the back.