Author Topic: Making Of The Willy Mammoth (Read 782449 times)

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #60 on:** Dec 27, 2004, 08:03:04 PM »

Well UPS finaly brought my stuff and the bender showed up as well. The crossmember sticks out on both sides of the frame about 6"

Now, Is it a sin to cut up a brand new Marlin Crawler crossmember?

Marlin I hope you can forgive me for what I am about to do.

I guess I need to go back to the steel yard and pick up some 3/8 angle to hange the crossmember. Still thinking on the mod for the MC dual shifter. I was thinking about trying to get the shifters for the transfercase to come up to the rite side of the trans shifter in the stock hole, but this would meen cutting up a new dual shifter. Marlin isn't going to like me after this.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #61 on:** Dec 27, 2004, 08:04:03 PM »

More pics

FATB0Y · « **Reply #62 on:** Dec 30, 2004, 09:35:47 AM »

Mr Willy all I can say is

You Are THE MAN !

Rig is lookin' sweet

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #63 on:** Dec 30, 2004, 05:22:55 PM »

I just couldn't wait to get the engine, trans and transfer in. So here it is with the engine hanging on the hoist.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #64 on:** Dec 30, 2004, 05:25:03 PM »

reklund5 · « **Reply #65 on:** Dec 30, 2004, 06:16:35 PM »

Looks like it all will fit nicely! When you use the bender, post up on how it works. I'm really close to purchasing one, but have never had any feedback or photos of someones actual bends. The last one I used didn't impress me...

Keep up the good work!!

Ryan

toyhatsu · « **Reply #66 on:** Dec 31, 2004, 07:05:10 AM »

This is frankenstein work at it's best! I don't even have minimal skills so I am extremely envious of you and the Mrs. Very impressive fabbing/ engineering!

FATB0Y · « **Reply #67 on:** Jan 01, 2005, 07:52:02 AM »

Willy have one on me

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #68 on:** Jan 02, 2005, 07:06:16 PM »

We spent New Years in Georgia with some friends we met in West Virginia riding atv's an hanging out around the fire. We had a blast up there, but now back home it was time to move on with the project.

I made up motor mount brackets an got the engine sitting on them in the 4 hrs I had to work on it today. Next the crossmember needs to get cut down and fitted. I will try to get this done this week and start hooking up the engine.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #69 on:** Jan 02, 2005, 07:10:28 PM »

More pics

reklund5 · « **Reply #70 on:** Jan 02, 2005, 11:14:50 PM »

Looks really good! Keep up the good work

I'm still really curious about your tubing bender...don't forget me when you get some time to use it!

Ryan

FATB0Y · « **Reply #71 on:** Jan 03, 2005, 10:22:45 AM »

U R the

camo89 · « **Reply #72 on:** Jan 03, 2005, 11:34:06 AM »

Willy Mammoth your my hero i wana be just like you when i grow up

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #73 on:** Jan 03, 2005, 08:54:10 PM »

I cut down the crossmember and drilled some 5/8" holes to bolt it to the brackets I haven't made yet. I also started making up the driveshafts, the front will have a nice angle and the rear is going to be real steep. The pinion is turned up as far as I dare and there is only about 2" of travel before the CV binds.

To bad the driveshaft isn't rubber!

Well I need to sleep on this one. I sure am glad I streached this a foot and used a high pinion diff or there would be no way to connect a drive shaft at all.

This is where jeeps suck and I knew that from the start, but there has to be a fix for this too. It will come to me after some

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #74 on:** Jan 03, 2005, 08:56:52 PM »

More pics

brainlessfool · « **Reply #75 on:** Jan 03, 2005, 09:25:00 PM »

Well ya could move every thing forward a bite, 3-4" shorten the front drive line and then you would have some more room for the rear.
I mean it's not a race car so a 50/50 wight split is no big deal. hummm, I know you could just make the whole drive train pivet from the motor mount on back! just like some of the old cars used to! just run a ladder bar from the rear end to the transfer case to hold up the back end! Am I a genuis or what?

FATB0Y · « **Reply #76 on:** Jan 03, 2005, 09:27:52 PM »

Quote from: Willy Mammoth on Jan 03, 2005, 08:54:10 PM

I cut down the crossmember and drilled some 5/8" holes to bolt it to the brackets I haven't made yet. I also started making up the driveshafts, the front will have a nice angle and the rear is going to be real steep. The pinion is turned up as far as I dare and there is only about 2" of travel before the CV binds. To bad the driveshaft isn't rubber! Well I need to sleep on this one. I sure am glad I streached this a foot and used a high pinion diff or there would be no way to connect a drive shaft at all. This is where jeeps suck and I knew that from the start, but there has to be a fix for this too. It will come to me after some

Mr. Willy How about doing a 2 peice driveshaft like is on the 2wd datsun you could mount the center section about 25* lower than the front then the second shaft will bolt to the center and than to the rearend that should solve your delima.

just my

FATB0Y · « **Reply #77 on:** Jan 03, 2005, 09:30:42 PM »

Quote from: brainlessfool on Jan 03, 2005, 09:25:00 PM

Am I a genuis or what?

FATB0Y · « **Reply #78 on:** Jan 03, 2005, 09:33:14 PM »

Brainless U know I'm yankin' your chain

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #79 on:** Jan 03, 2005, 09:33:58 PM »

Quote from: brainlessfool on Jan 03, 2005, 09:25:00 PM

Well ya could move every thing forward a bite, 3-4" shorten the front drive line and then you would have some more room for the rear.
I mean it's not a race car so a 50/50 wight split is no big deal. hummm, I know you could just make the whole drive train pivet from the motor mount on back! just like some of the old cars used to! just run a ladder bar from the rear end to the transfer case to hold up the back end! Am I a genuis or what?

You are a brainiack and no I can't spell.

I had thought of not using a drive shaft at all, but to just use a ujoint and have the trans move with the rearend. That would be like a freak show though.

Where is the rear output on the land cruiser case? Is it lower like the front?

camo89 · « **Reply #80 on:** Jan 03, 2005, 11:51:17 PM »

crusers are down low but offset jap 18

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #81 on:** Jan 04, 2005, 12:00:56 AM »

That looks like a 1st gen. cv. Id say that the cv needs some attention beings it isnt moving enough. 84 and 85 have the most movement of any cv's. Ive got a 94 cv in my rear driveline and it has FAR more angularity available than that one does.

FATB0Y · « **Reply #82 on:** Jan 04, 2005, 12:09:45 AM »

Quote from: CR on Jan 03, 2005, 11:51:17 PM

crusers are down low but offset jap 18

camo89 · « **Reply #83 on:** Jan 04, 2005, 12:14:58 AM »

there like a dana 18 t-case for refrance there out put for the drive lines is off set bolth come out on the right side but its lower than a centerd out put a LC case is just the same

WHITE_TRASH · « **Reply #84 on:** Jan 04, 2005, 12:16:10 AM »

Cruisers are basically a carbon copy of a post war heep. But built with better quality and and far better drivability.

FATB0Y · « **Reply #85 on:** Jan 04, 2005, 12:21:20 AM »

Thanx...Well I learned something new 2day

Not that I'd remember

FATB0Y · « **Reply #86 on:** Jan 04, 2005, 12:22:47 AM »

I suffer from CRS

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #87 on:** Jan 04, 2005, 04:56:12 PM »

I am wondering how many degrees a driveshaft can bend before viberations can be expected. Currently I have 17* at rest.

You gotta dig the Chevy orange

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FATB0Y · « **Reply #88 on:** Jan 04, 2005, 11:49:47 PM »

I'm jus' digin' that custom fab work

camo89 · « **Reply #89 on:** Jan 05, 2005, 08:25:08 PM »

to much man

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