Author Topic: Nuckle Rebuild Question  (Read 5680 times)

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Halladay

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Nuckle Rebuild Question
« on: Sep 21, 2009, 09:28:22 AM »
ok so im going to be rebuilding my knuckles today because they leak and my tires are sitting like this ^....
so that means my shims in on my lowwer and upper nuckle caps are wrong. so what shims do i put were and how many go were. I know there are 4 differnt size's of the shims.
Paper Thin, Thin, Thick, Real thick lol please help  :beerchug: and yes i tryed the search icon

brockbuilt85

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #1 on: Sep 21, 2009, 09:30:00 AM »
im rebuilding mine so ill be lookin for an answer too
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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #2 on: Sep 21, 2009, 09:48:33 AM »
you are supposed to set the pre-load with a knuckle pull scale to get the proper amount of shims.... every time I have done mine I just use the shims that came out and make sure the pre-load feels ok and all is good and tight! the amount of shims will not affect how your wheels are sitting... chances are the leaks are caused by bad inner axle seals... order the marlin HD seals and never go back the stock ones will always leak!
Having a 12 second Honda is just like coming out of the closet; You're going to surprise a bunch of people, but in the end you're still gay.

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Halladay [OP]

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #3 on: Sep 21, 2009, 10:27:14 AM »
you are supposed to set the pre-load with a knuckle pull scale to get the proper amount of shims.... every time I have done mine I just use the shims that came out and make sure the pre-load feels ok and all is good and tight! the amount of shims will not affect how your wheels are sitting... chances are the leaks are caused by bad inner axle seals... order the marlin HD seals and never go back the stock ones will always leak!

could i just use a fishing scale to weigh fish as my pull scale?
so what adjusts my caster camber if the shims dont?
this is what my tires look like....
the pics dont really give is justice... its worce than it looks



88_Pathy

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #4 on: Sep 21, 2009, 10:57:39 AM »
The high steer arms are loose.

TIMS89CRAWLER

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #5 on: Sep 21, 2009, 11:01:00 AM »
either that or your knuckle bearings are just shot..... time to tear it down and see I guess!
Having a 12 second Honda is just like coming out of the closet; You're going to surprise a bunch of people, but in the end you're still gay.

www.choptechfab.com
www.myspace.com/choptechfab

1989 x-cab truck, 96 2rz swap, MC07-R10 duals w/flat belly, doved front, bobbed bed, all pro 5" springs F&R, lincoln locked F&R, 38.5" sx's and still at it!
CHECK THE BUILD
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39494.0

Dark Knight

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #6 on: Sep 21, 2009, 11:42:25 AM »
read the rebuild section http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleRebuild.shtml#Rebuild

this is what I will be fllowing in the next week as I do mine.

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #7 on: Sep 21, 2009, 11:51:25 AM »
1 thick and 1 thin usually werk just fine
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TIMS89CRAWLER

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #8 on: Sep 21, 2009, 12:47:23 PM »
1 thick and 1 thin usually werk just fine
thats what I am using as well
Having a 12 second Honda is just like coming out of the closet; You're going to surprise a bunch of people, but in the end you're still gay.

www.choptechfab.com
www.myspace.com/choptechfab

1989 x-cab truck, 96 2rz swap, MC07-R10 duals w/flat belly, doved front, bobbed bed, all pro 5" springs F&R, lincoln locked F&R, 38.5" sx's and still at it!
CHECK THE BUILD
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39494.0

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MY ONLY REGRET IS THAT I HAVE NOTHING USEFUL TO OFFER THIS FORUM  :moon:
except BACON

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #10 on: Sep 21, 2009, 04:26:15 PM »
One thick and one thin is not good enough in my mind.  Mine was so far away from that it's not even funny.  :cheese:

I used this method.  works great.  :thumbs:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734345


and the shims do not change your Camber angle.   :)
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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #11 on: Sep 21, 2009, 04:50:38 PM »
I see you have some axle braceing and gussets its possible that the axle could have overheated and pulled from a weld that was too long and continous if the knuckle and wheel bearings are still good then this could be a possibility.

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #12 on: Sep 21, 2009, 06:19:53 PM »
One thick and one thin is not good enough in my mind.  Mine was so far away from that it's not even funny.  :cheese:

I used this method.  works great.  :thumbs:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734345


and the shims do not change your Camber angle.   :)
I have used 1 thick and 1 thin every time I have built a toyota front axle and they all seem to work great with no issues.... I understand thats not the "correct" way to do it but it has always worked just fine for me as well as everyone else I know that has done it... every single toyota axle I have taken apart has had 1 thick and 1 thin...
Having a 12 second Honda is just like coming out of the closet; You're going to surprise a bunch of people, but in the end you're still gay.

www.choptechfab.com
www.myspace.com/choptechfab

1989 x-cab truck, 96 2rz swap, MC07-R10 duals w/flat belly, doved front, bobbed bed, all pro 5" springs F&R, lincoln locked F&R, 38.5" sx's and still at it!
CHECK THE BUILD
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39494.0

calitaco

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #13 on: Sep 21, 2009, 06:49:39 PM »
One thing you might want to check for is to make sure your axle isn't bent.  Mine was leaking real bad and the cause was my axle was bent at the ball.  I've rebuilt it twice and it still leaks.  I'm in the process of replacing the axle housing, but need to get another rebuild kit from Marlin.

Notice how low the axle sits inside the ball.  It was a bish getting the axle in there when it's bent, because I have to lift it up to be able to push the axle into the housing.  By doing that, I damaged the inner seal.


Halladay [OP]

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #14 on: Sep 22, 2009, 09:20:16 PM »
update;

rebuilt my axel and my inner seal was toasted! i replaced it and rebuilt the whole nuckle. i also bought some trail gear rock rings and love them! well worth 20 bucks to me ill post a pic in a few i used one thick and one thin and its perfect... after doing all that my camber caster is perfect and my tires are straight!

Halladay [OP]

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #15 on: Sep 22, 2009, 09:27:06 PM »
here ya go


Steve_925

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #16 on: Sep 22, 2009, 09:56:36 PM »
make sure you save those old trunion bearings. they are valuable on the trail
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Halladay [OP]

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #17 on: Sep 22, 2009, 10:11:29 PM »
true that

brockbuilt85

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #18 on: Sep 22, 2009, 10:16:35 PM »
make sure you save those old trunion bearings. they are valuable on the trail
good call!
When in doubt, skinny pedal!
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http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=50894.0

axled89

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #19 on: Sep 22, 2009, 11:18:50 PM »
they aren't to bad to do huh. looks good. :thumbs:
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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #20 on: Sep 23, 2009, 09:53:20 AM »
make sure you save those old trunion bearings. they are valuable on the trail

X2.

I put my old ones in a zip lock baggie.
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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #21 on: Sep 23, 2009, 10:54:22 AM »
did you use the marlin HD seals?
Having a 12 second Honda is just like coming out of the closet; You're going to surprise a bunch of people, but in the end you're still gay.

www.choptechfab.com
www.myspace.com/choptechfab

1989 x-cab truck, 96 2rz swap, MC07-R10 duals w/flat belly, doved front, bobbed bed, all pro 5" springs F&R, lincoln locked F&R, 38.5" sx's and still at it!
CHECK THE BUILD
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39494.0

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #22 on: Sep 23, 2009, 11:40:48 AM »
I have used 1 thick and 1 thin every time I have built a toyota front axle and they all seem to work great with no issues.... I understand thats not the "correct" way to do it but it has always worked just fine for me as well as everyone else I know that has done it... every single toyota axle I have taken apart has had 1 thick and 1 thin...

I guess my housing is jacked then.  haha.


But its holding now.  :woohoo:
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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #23 on: Oct 15, 2009, 12:35:41 PM »
The knuckle kit I bought has only 8 shims in the entire kit. I dont have a gauge to measure the thickness but it seems there are four thin and four thick. I proceeded with the thick and thin route and the axle seems to be centered correctly. Everything is torqued to spec. Thoughts? (from people who have done this before)

Dark Knight

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #24 on: Oct 15, 2009, 02:03:01 PM »
there are 4 large seals in the kit. 2 inner seals for the hub. Where am I missing that the other two go??

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #25 on: Oct 15, 2009, 07:57:43 PM »
there should be 2 seals for the hubs ( about 4 inches diameter) and 2 seals for the inner axle, (maybe 2 inches) they go inside the housing (inside the knuckle ball)

one thick one thin, then tighten it all down and see how much resistance it requires to turn the knuckle side to side most use a fish scale for this

they should be snug not sloppy or too tight to turn
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #26 on: Oct 15, 2009, 10:56:10 PM »
there should be 2 seals for the hubs ( about 4 inches diameter) and 2 seals for the inner axle, (maybe 2 inches) they go inside the housing (inside the knuckle ball)

one thick one thin, then tighten it all down and see how much resistance it requires to turn the knuckle side to side most use a fish scale for this

they should be snug not sloppy or too tight to turn
there are actually 2 more gaskets about 4" in dia. these are for the spindle to knuckle
Having a 12 second Honda is just like coming out of the closet; You're going to surprise a bunch of people, but in the end you're still gay.

www.choptechfab.com
www.myspace.com/choptechfab

1989 x-cab truck, 96 2rz swap, MC07-R10 duals w/flat belly, doved front, bobbed bed, all pro 5" springs F&R, lincoln locked F&R, 38.5" sx's and still at it!
CHECK THE BUILD
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=39494.0

Dark Knight

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #27 on: Oct 16, 2009, 05:48:20 AM »
 I got the inner oil seal inside the knuckle ball taken care of, those are the 2"ers. The 4 large seals I'm speekin of are all the same size (about 4") and look exactly like the inner oil seal on the hub. So the hubs takes care of 2 of the 4 (4") seals, the other two 4" oil seal go somewhere in between the spindle and knuckle??? Where??

Dark Knight

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #28 on: Oct 16, 2009, 06:06:07 AM »
I think my seal confusion is because the kit I bought came with the wheel bearing kit for each side and the knuckle rebuild kit. the knuckle kit comes with two inner hub seals and each wheel bearing kit comes with a inner hub seal. does this sound right? Wish I had waited till Marlin had the kit in stock so I could have gotten the HD knuckle oil seal  :smack:

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Re: Nuckle Rebuild Question
« Reply #29 on: Oct 16, 2009, 08:35:20 AM »
I think my seal confusion is because the kit I bought came with the wheel bearing kit for each side and the knuckle rebuild kit. the knuckle kit comes with two inner hub seals and each wheel bearing kit comes with a inner hub seal. does this sound right? Wish I had waited till Marlin had the kit in stock so I could have gotten the HD knuckle oil seal  :smack:
yea  that is what happened,  knuckle kit and wheel bearing kit :yesnod:


i hope you didnt get them from Trail gear :stopit:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

 
 
 
 
 

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