Author Topic: 1st gen runner rear window not working????? (Read 7107 times)

John Doe · « **on:** Apr 23, 2009, 05:31:47 PM »

There is no power to the switch, I have replaced the window regulator box just behind the b-pillar, havn't found a blown fuse, I can run the rear window if I jump the motor. I currently have it rigged, but its a VERY temp job!

I want the stock switch to work again, any ideas?

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #1 on:** Apr 23, 2009, 05:34:33 PM »

I know there is a sensor that keeps the window from rolling up if the top is off. Can't remember where it is but it could be bad or it got unpluged.

4xJedi · « **Reply #2 on:** Apr 23, 2009, 05:47:25 PM »

This may sound stupid but make sure your rear wiper is all the way in the up and parked position. Use your hand and push it up all the way. I've seen this happen more than once on different trucks

.

FLRunner · « **Reply #3 on:** Apr 23, 2009, 06:04:36 PM »

X2 on the rear wiper . I had this same problem with mine and i just swaped out the switch and it works fine now .

John Doe · « **Reply #4 on:** Apr 23, 2009, 07:00:16 PM »

I havnt taken the top off in months. The wiper is in the up position. I am trying to open and close the window. It stopped working all of a sudden while bouncing around playing in a construction site a few weeks back. With my temp wiring it appears the window censors are working properly.

The temp wiring I set up..... a full time hot from engine bay, a wire plugged in to both spots on the window motor, a 3 prong switch. 1 wire from the window motor and the hot wire in the switch, the other wire from the window motor is ground. I have to swap the window motor wires from ground to switch to switch from rolling window up/ down.

I could care less if the wiper does not work, but i want my stock wiring/ switch for my rear window to work.

*** YELLER *** · « **Reply #5 on:** Apr 23, 2009, 08:20:52 PM »

check the plug on Driverside of shell from behind to make sure its plugged in, then take apart the tailgate and mnake sure the saftey switch is being used, on my Blazer I sometimes have to push the gate in to make it go up and down, i think its on the Driver side little button IIRC that needs to be pushed on to make it work.And make sure the wiper switch is in nuetral position or it wont work

John Doe · « **Reply #6 on:** Apr 23, 2009, 08:26:24 PM »

Wiper switch is unplugged. I have had to push in the gate to make work in the past, I have tried and it hasnt worked. All plugs at/ around the gate are good.

*** YELLER *** · « **Reply #7 on:** Apr 23, 2009, 08:29:17 PM »

try pluggin the wiper switch back in and see what happens I had this problem too and we ended up runnin a 3 way switch to the center councel and making it work that way

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #8 on:** Apr 23, 2009, 08:51:22 PM »

When you find the problem, I got a few parts and switches laying around.

John Doe · « **Reply #9 on:** Apr 23, 2009, 09:15:40 PM »

I'll check tomorrow, but I know the wiper switch was plugged in when the window stopped working. I also know I played with it as well in each position, then unplugged it and set aside. I have tried a number of things at various times and had no luck. You guys keep suggesting things Ive tried and forgot about. But I think you guys suggested all the things Ive tried now. So any new suggestions would be new. I think it might be some thing in the wiring from the switch forward, but I am hoping it is between the switch and window.

Thanks for the offer 4runnerchevy

Larryb · « **Reply #10 on:** Apr 24, 2009, 07:08:29 AM »

Be sure to check here for some tips too

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/RearWindow.shtml

Tallchevy · « **Reply #11 on:** Apr 26, 2009, 08:47:02 AM »

Even if the rear wiper isn't hooked up, if the switch is in the "on" position the window won't go down cause it cuts the power to the window to keep from running the rear wiper with the window down.

wakkjobb · « **Reply #12 on:** Apr 26, 2009, 10:02:21 PM »

I hear things like this are common on 1gen runners, just how common are these window troubles? I'd like to pick up one (someday...

) and am trying to find out what's going to break before it does.

An ounce of prevention...
Dan

Moit88RNR · « **Reply #13 on:** Apr 26, 2009, 11:58:57 PM »

I have this same problem and i finally gave up

66cobra · « **Reply #14 on:** Apr 27, 2009, 05:56:33 AM »

I had this same problem at the beginning of winter and checked everything everything checked out ok so i said f..it just leave it up for now.long story short it fixed itself.anyway i found someone who makes a wiring harness which eliminates alot of the stock b.s. i cant find his link right now but i think he's located in the bay area if i rember correctly it was priced @100 or >

Larryb · « **Reply #15 on:** Apr 27, 2009, 03:21:37 PM »

Definitely post the link if you can find it. I would definitely like a harness to simplify things a bit

Moit88RNR · « **Reply #16 on:** Apr 27, 2009, 05:11:04 PM »

i think the cheapest way would be to buy a momentary window switch from an auto parts store and run a new fused circit. has anyone else ever tried this?. if not i think i will tomarrow.

*** YELLER *** · « **Reply #17 on:** Apr 27, 2009, 05:44:15 PM »

I had this problem also and no matter what we did rear window wouldnt work so I took a 3 way switch and wired it in.... problem solved

UP... NEUTRAL... DOWN

John Doe · « **Reply #18 on:** Apr 27, 2009, 06:16:44 PM »

I have the same thing wired up right now. Problem being I cant get passed the grounding. I would have no problem gutting the stock wiring If I could get a harness that can take care of the lack of a ground on the window motor.

Moit88RNR · « **Reply #19 on:** Apr 27, 2009, 06:49:35 PM »

more info on how you wired it Plz

attitude of gratitude · « **Reply #20 on:** Apr 27, 2009, 07:52:02 PM »

Make sure no wires are broke at the harness at the tailgate and body first. If the control box is good ( new or used parts don't mean good parts) try bypassing the saftey lock switch on the console by the window switch. I can't remember the colors, but you can just scotch lock them together, it's only two of them. I had to do it on mine. Too much coffee spilt on it.

Larryb · « **Reply #21 on:** Apr 27, 2009, 07:55:02 PM »

Mine works with the key in the tailgate but does not work with the switch in the center console. I can live with that but would like for it to be fully functional using both the interior and tailgate switch

NCK4L · « **Reply #22 on:** Apr 27, 2009, 08:23:15 PM »

12 volt guy makes a pretty nice harness that bypasses all that crap dont know how much it costs though i bought mine used. If you wire to a constant the window will work with out the ignition being on.

brockbuilt85 · « **Reply #23 on:** Apr 28, 2009, 09:52:27 AM »

Quote from: **YELLER** on Apr 27, 2009, 05:44:15 PM

I had this problem also and no matter what we did rear window wouldnt work so I took a 3 way switch and wired it in.... problem solved

UP... NEUTRAL... DOWN

take a small wire and at the plug where the switch plugs in, begin jumping terminals. once you have figured out which combination does what (out of 5 wires, two should make window go up, two go down) hook up your toggle switch accordenly. the motor is gronded at the tail gate so you just need to find constant power(or acc power) and toggle it back and forth from up and down. thats what i did and it works fine.

Moit88RNR · « **Reply #24 on:** Apr 28, 2009, 05:37:02 PM »

just bought this switch. going to see if its easy to wire up. ill let you guys know

Moit88RNR · « **Reply #25 on:** Apr 28, 2009, 05:40:34 PM »

got it done. works perfect. mounted it right next to my clutch cancel button. $20 and one hour to hook it up

*** YELLER *** · « **Reply #26 on:** Apr 28, 2009, 06:44:24 PM »

Larryb · « **Reply #27 on:** Apr 28, 2009, 08:04:38 PM »

Just received this email from 12voltguy

Yes $79+ $8.99 shipping
I am swamped with orders,
lead time aprox 2-4weeks
includes everything
relays
switch & bezel, carling rocker
cable
instructions
& the rear door key still functions
this is a bypass of org, mounts in dash, left of steering wheel, you need to unplug relay box behind rear passenger, drivers side kick panel
here are instructions and pics

[IMG]http://my.photodump.com/larryb/cea09e9144e4c3f3-T.jpg[/IMG

Steve_925 · « **Reply #28 on:** Apr 28, 2009, 09:40:21 PM »

mine used to be hard wired under the back of the truck.
i had 1 hot wire and 2 grounds. i would plug the hot and a ground together and ground the other one out to get it to go up then swap the grounds to get it to go down..............very getto

66cobra · « **Reply #29 on:** Apr 29, 2009, 05:22:23 AM »

yeah that was it ...12 volt guy

John Doe [OP]

John Doe [OP]

John Doe [OP]

John Doe [OP]

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