Author Topic: pulling my first engine - please advice - 1984 (Read 7795 times)

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #30 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 09:15:30 PM »

I have always removed engine by itself and transmission/transfercase together as a unit. Which you pull first (engine or trans/transfer unit) does not matter from my experiences.

i_luv_my_truck · « **Reply #31 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 09:17:31 PM »

Pictured below, are those the lifting hooks? The front one, doesn't seem very stout. Are those suffice to pull engine trans and transfer case out as one?

Thanks again.

i_luv_my_truck · « **Reply #32 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 09:19:22 PM »

Quote from: KDXSR5 on Mar 23, 2009, 09:15:30 PM

I have always removed engine by itself and transmission/transfercase together as a unit. Which you pull first (engine or trans/transfer unit) does not matter from my experiences.

What order did you install? engine, trans, then transfer

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #33 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 09:22:14 PM »

Quote from: i_luv_my_truck on Mar 23, 2009, 09:17:31 PM

Pictured below, are those the lifting hooks? The front one, doesn't seem very stout. Are those suffice to pull engine trans and transfer case out as one?

Yes those are lifting hooks. Those are what I have used to lift the engine every time. Whether or not they are strong enough to pull the engine/trans/transfer as one, I do not know.

Quote from: i_luv_my_truck on Mar 23, 2009, 09:19:22 PM

What order did you install? engine, trans, then transfer

The two times I have installed I only installed the engine, so I do not know which way would be better.

i_luv_my_truck · « **Reply #34 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 09:31:28 PM »

Quote from: KDXSR5 on Mar 23, 2009, 09:22:14 PM

Yes those are lifting hooks. Those are what I have used to lift the engine every time. Whether or not they are strong enough to pull the engine/trans/transfer as one, I do not know.

I read the Toyota Service manual for 1983 Toyota 4X4's and it explain about removing all components as one. Not very good detail. I also read the 1984 Toyota 4X4 manual and it made no reference to removing all components as one.

Those hooks are mounted on aluminum heads. Aluminum is not a very strong metal.

Just looking for some real word experiences.

Thanks alot

emsvitil · « **Reply #35 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 09:44:22 PM »

The hooks were strong enough for a 78 celica that had a 20R and W55 transmission.

The added weight of the transfer might make a difference...........

wakkjobb · « **Reply #36 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 09:45:04 PM »

Those hooks are fine; Toyota wouldn't have installed them at the factory if they weren't--> observe:

20R coming out, 22R went in:

I supported the trans with a floor jack and chunk of wood; ratchet straps are holding another project's trans in place as well. Been like that for a few months now...

Pull the engine separate from the trans/t-case; it's going to be WAY easier to get just the engine out by itself.
Consider how long the whole package is and how it has to come out of the engine bay... possible? Maybe. Easy? Hell no!

Do it to it!
Dan

emsvitil · « **Reply #37 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 09:50:52 PM »

The offset weight of the transfer will make the engine/tranny/transfer combo trickier.........

kneedownnate · « **Reply #38 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 09:55:27 PM »

I used the hooks to pull the engine, tranny and case all as one. Aluminum is plenty strong. It's not like a 1/4 sheet, it's a head! Plus, the weak link really is the bolt holding the lift eye to the head

i_luv_my_truck · « **Reply #39 on:** Mar 23, 2009, 09:59:32 PM »

Quote from: wakkjobb on Mar 23, 2009, 09:45:04 PM

Those hooks are fine; Toyota wouldn't have installed them at the factory if they weren't--> observe:

20R coming out, 22R went in...

I supported the trans with a floor jack and chunk of wood; ratchet straps are holding another project's trans in place as well. Been like that for a few months now...
Pull the engine separate from the trans/t-case; it's going to be WAY easier to get just the engine out by itself.
Consider how long the whole package is and how it has to come out of the engine bay... possible? Maybe. Easy? Hell no!

Do it to it!
Dan

Thanks! Dan. You make it look easy.

Bellhousing/transmission, interchangeable like that between 20R and 22R?

wakkjobb · « **Reply #40 on:** Mar 24, 2009, 04:27:15 PM »

here's a great link to a bunch of engine/trans/t-case info:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/
For the bellhousings... I'm not 100% certain, we got ours as a whole package from one vehicle. From the work and research I've done I'd say the 20 and 22 engines share the same bellhousing pattern, but don't quote me on that. I do know the 2wd trans are totally different and aren't worth trying to make them fit/work; found that out the hard way.

Having the right tools makes things easier; but it doesn't mean it IS easy!!

Dan

i_luv_my_truck · « **Reply #41 on:** Mar 24, 2009, 08:09:51 PM »

Thanks for the info.

Slowly but surely, I'm bonding with my truck. hahaha I've owned this truck for over 23 years.

Ernest

wakkjobb · « **Reply #42 on:** Mar 25, 2009, 12:11:09 AM »

Dang! I guess I form fast bonds with my vehicles... which are quickly broken for a profit.

I'll buy it if you get stuck and want to sell it... as long as the girl approves

Hope your engine removing and rebuilding goes well!
Dan

yotaismygame · « **Reply #43 on:** Mar 26, 2009, 01:08:19 AM »

dont forget to support the transmission if you decide to only pull the engine. And for those two top bolts i just use several wobble head extensions and a socket wrench, never had a problem.

87yoter · « **Reply #44 on:** Mar 26, 2009, 09:09:23 AM »

ratcheting wrenches will save you from goin completely insane on the top two bell housing bolts. unless you have any patients, wich i dont. theyre pretty expensive but I bought the cheapose from kragen and use them just for that kinda stuff. box end isnt worth a

. junk pot metal streches. and who knows how much torque the ratched end will hold up to. anyways they were worth the 50 bucks

i_luv_my_truck · « **Reply #45 on:** Mar 26, 2009, 12:00:23 PM »

Thanks for all the info! Getting really close to pulling the engine.

i_luv_my_truck · « **Reply #46 on:** Mar 26, 2009, 05:03:25 PM »

OK, finally removed all bolts from bellhousing. For engine removal separate from transmission. Nothing was simple, every bolt was frozen, used plenty of liquid wrench. has not been disassembled in over 22 years.

Have hoist connected to engine, transmission supported with wooden blocks. engine mounts removed. Having alot of resistance separating engine from transmission. the engine and transmission do not seem to be in a bind, during attempted removal.

Is there a technique for separating the engine from transmission? pry bars? maybe a left jack horizontally?

Thanks again for any assistance,
Ernest

emsvitil · « **Reply #47 on:** Mar 26, 2009, 05:49:18 PM »

The alignment pins in the bellhousing tend to be sticky.

Wiggle the engine back and forth, sticking bigger items in the gap.....

i.e. wiggle one way, stuff screwdriver in gap, wiggle other way, other screwdriver, wiggle the first way again, bigger screwdriver............

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #48 on:** Mar 26, 2009, 05:51:13 PM »

I just put the transmission in neutral and barely lift the engine off the engine mounts then start yanking the crane back and forth; it usually takes me a little bit of effort. Make sure the tires are chocked well. I pulled this engine last fall at like three in the morning, lol. And yes, I did pull it in that little space there; it was very tight.

i_luv_my_truck · « **Reply #49 on:** Mar 26, 2009, 06:02:48 PM »

coolness Thanks!

I need to get little more aggressive with it.

Ernest

wakkjobb · « **Reply #50 on:** Mar 26, 2009, 09:26:11 PM »

It will take equal parts wiggle and jiggle to get the engine away from the trans; pry bars and big long screwdrivers help.

Dan

i_luv_my_truck · « **Reply #51 on:** Mar 26, 2009, 10:08:00 PM »

You guys rock! Engine is out! Just had to break it loose.

After I jiggled the hoist a little. I stood on driver side, left hand on front of head and right hand on back of head and twist back and forth, bopped right out.

THK Matt · « **Reply #52 on:** Mar 26, 2009, 10:23:48 PM »

great job!

wakkjobb · « **Reply #53 on:** Mar 27, 2009, 11:21:14 PM »

Quick!!! Stick in a 3RZ-FE before anyone notices!

Good job; just don't forget how it came out. New seals EVERYwhere; no short cuts!

Get the upgraded Marlin 1600-pound clutch if you can; or get an '86-newer clutch for good holding power.
Trust me; the 20R clutch will NOT hold the 22RE engine's power. Can you say 'SLIPPING'?

Research and destroy!!!!!
Dan

yotaismygame · « **Reply #54 on:** Mar 28, 2009, 10:27:58 PM »

Now that you removed your first engine the next one will be much easier. its mostly the same for most vehicles. same story different chapter.

nice work.

wakkjobb · « **Reply #55 on:** Apr 04, 2009, 11:02:53 PM »

Any new updates? I'm anxious to know how everything has been going...

Dan

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #56 on:** Apr 05, 2009, 09:08:05 PM »

This will be easier than using a open end wrench.
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5539

i_luv_my_truck [OP]

i_luv_my_truck [OP]

i_luv_my_truck [OP]

i_luv_my_truck [OP]

i_luv_my_truck [OP]

i_luv_my_truck [OP]

i_luv_my_truck [OP]

i_luv_my_truck [OP]

i_luv_my_truck [OP]

Related Topics