Author Topic: Thermostat??? (Read 4026 times)

SLIVER · « **on:** Jan 16, 2009, 02:05:34 PM »

Hey guys, quick ?? I just got done rebuilding a 22-re, it has a brand new thermostat, however that thing will not open up.
My engine just gets hot on the temp gauge, and then I have to shut it off. The raidatior is cold as can be. It has a new water pump. all new coolant. I know the water pump works cause it builds up pressure in my hoses.
Do you think that I may have an air bubble up by the thermostat and that's why it's not getting hot enough there to open up??
Is there a way to burp the cooling system??

Thanks guys.

))--SLIVER-->

*ROKTOY* · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 16, 2009, 02:39:13 PM »

Air bubble is a possibility, you can pull the thermostat and check it on the stove in a pot of hot water.

SLIVER · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 16, 2009, 02:46:22 PM »

A little update, when the truck is running, that is when it seems to be stuck shut. Then I shut the truck off because it gets too hot. Then like 5 munites later, the thermostat opens up and the radiator gets wicked hot. I have repeated this same process 3 times now with the same results each time.
What temp of thermostat do you guys run?? I think that the guy at the parts store gave me a 195 degree F one. Is this right for a 22-re, or should he have given me one that opens at a lower temp??

Thanks

))--SLIVER-->

mudmaster · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 16, 2009, 02:48:58 PM »

I believe mines 195

emsvitil · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 16, 2009, 03:28:49 PM »

195 is correct.

unclejpl4x4 · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 16, 2009, 03:34:32 PM »

I run a cooler stat myself i think it's a 175-160 some where around there.

I recommend getting a Fail-safe stat because if they fail they fail open.

I also cut off the dingle ball.

just my preference.

SLIVER · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 16, 2009, 04:05:50 PM »

What dingle ball? This is starting to frustrate me. I have a truck with a brand new engine, and I can't even drive it.

Maybe i'll go get a new stat tomorrow, maybe I just got a lemon or something?? I don't know at this point.

. I'm going bonkers.

))--SLIVER-->

unclejpl4x4 · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 16, 2009, 04:17:08 PM »

lol sorry in some stats theres a small brass shaft with 2 ball things on it like a check valve that lets air/coolant flow threw the thermostat. I just cut them off Or i drill a hole in ones without.

No need 2 get pissed bro probably just got a bad one it happends .

heres a link to the fail-safe site http://www.motoradusa.com/catalog.php?Catalog=MotoRad&year=1993&make=TOYOTA&model=PICKUP&engine=L4+2.4L+2366cc+GAS+FI+N+VIN%3A+R

-Matt- · « **Reply #8 on:** Jan 16, 2009, 04:18:28 PM »

iv had pretty much ever damn problem you could think about when it comes to over heating and iv dealt with your problem many times. no matter what thermostat, radiator, etc i put in the only thing that fixed that problem was to drill 2 1/8 or 3/32 inch holes on the part of thermostat flange that has room on it. it allows just enough water to pass constantly though to heat up the thermostat on both sides making it open easier and allowing any air bubbles to escape..yet its not enough flow to make it run to cold.

edit: takes about 15 minutes to do and its well worth it and i almost guarantee it will fix your prob. if that doesn't then your new thermostat is bad.

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #9 on:** Jan 16, 2009, 06:22:33 PM »

I would have to agree with the others on the "bad" thermostat. The one thing that popped into my head was that if the t-stst was installed backward, that is exactly how it would act. It has been a while since I have had to mess with one, so I do not remember if there is room in the thermostat housing for the bulb. The bulb goes toward the intake, and the point (^) goes toward the radiator.

-Matt- · « **Reply #10 on:** Jan 16, 2009, 07:38:30 PM »

go ahead and replace the t stat just to make sure, but im telling you iv had that EXACT same problem before, and in my case there was NOthing wrong with it. i bought 3 in a row, all different types because I thought that it had to be bad, but none of them were. the reason i even bother is couse iv had lots of experience with the overheating problems of a 22re, im not just talking on something i read about online.

and as far as the thing being in upside down.. i would hope to think that if someone is able to rebuild a 22re they would know what way to put it in..let alone i don't think it will even fit upside down because of the sharp low profile 90* elbow that holds it in.

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 05:34:30 AM »

I deeply apologize for forgetting that only master mechanics are supposed to work on their own vehicles and are supposed to be incapable of making any mistakes. I have rebuilt 4 engines in the last year, and yes, I am able to make small errors. Fortunately, I check and recheck behind myself, so I catch them. I am by no means trying to suggest that SLIVER is incompetent, but I also know, that when I get that close to getting an engine going, I tend to rush, and that is when stupid mistakes CAN happen.

Now, the reason that the "backwards" came to mind:

Quote from: SLIVER on Jan 16, 2009, 02:46:22 PM

A little update, when the truck is running, that is when it seems to be stuck shut. Then I shut the truck off because it gets too hot. Then like 5 munites later, the thermostat opens up and the radiator gets wicked hot. I have repeated this same process 3 times now with the same results each time.

Sounds to me like he starts with a cool engine. Running the engine heats it up. If the stat was in backward, it would not open because it is still in the cool water. After shutting the truck off, the heat "soaks" through the stat, heating the water on the other side, which then in turn opens the stat, letting the water gravity circulate through the radiator.

But, then again, I'm not a certified master mechanic, so I guess I shouldn't even try to help.

Quote from: -Matt- on Jan 16, 2009, 07:38:30 PM

let alone i don't think it will even fit upside down because of the sharp low profile 90* elbow that holds it in.

The elbow is not a sharp or low profile. It is spherical. Yes, there is room inside the housing for the bulb.

I.D.G.A.F · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 06:29:24 AM »

go to the toyota dealer near you and they sell the best thermostat it has a big valve and a little one. part #90916-03070 Its like $30. That's just my

krash81 · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 06:36:00 AM »

Just because it's new doesn't mean it works. A thermostat is cheap and only takes a few minutes to change.

unclejpl4x4 · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 06:37:58 AM »

Quote from: krash81 on Jan 17, 2009, 06:36:00 AM

Just because it's new doesn't mean it works.

just like females

sorry

krash81 · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 06:56:44 AM »

:yupyup:True that..

SLIVER · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 08:29:43 AM »

Thanks for all the quick replies guys! First off, I'm no master mechanic, however the stat is in correctly.
Matt, I think that i'll try your trick with drilling the holes in the flange. It sounds like the best way to get some hot coolant at least flowing around the stat. I may try putting the current stat in a pot of boiling water just to see if it for sure opens up all the way.
Thanks again guys, sure wish it was warmer than 9 degrees today. Makes for some cold times in the garage.

))--SLIVER-->

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 09:22:57 AM »

Something else that came to mind is that there is a coolant hose that routes from the intake, beside the thermostat, through the IAC on the bottom of the throttle body. If that is restricted, then you will not get any flow across the stat until it starts to open, and the stat will take longer to open. Just another possibility.

Sliver, like I said, I am not in any way belittling your abilities, I just know mistakes do happen. The ones that make you

the worst are usually the

ones. It's all good, and I know you'll figure it out.

-Matt- · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 11:23:33 AM »

sorry tonka wasn't trying to sound like a jack ass. the only reason i tended towards shaking my head is that the only thing people usually suggest is that your brand new t stat is faulty and don't get me wrong some are.. but its very unlikely so i was just trying to jump straight to the point only couse iv been trying to figure this same problem out for a long time, and i have talked to a lot of people about it, so im just trying to get straight to the point.. that is if the thermostat is actually fine. Trust me i'm NO master mechanic, iv just had a lot of personal experience when it specifically comes to this problem.

SLIVER · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 11:35:11 AM »

Thanks again guys, here goes nothing. I will let you know of the outcome.

))--SLIVER-->

SLIVER · « **Reply #20 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 02:04:53 PM »

Well I think it's fixed. I bought a new Stat. Pulled it apart and boiled my old stat. It opened up just fine. So I cut off the "dangle ball" ( thanks for that, I now understand what the dangle ball is) drilled it's hole out to 1/8 and also did one more 1/8" hole. Put it all back together, filled it up with anti-freeze. Fired it up and let it run for close to 15 min. The thing would not heat up from the cold mark at all. So then I drained the raidator again, pulled the t-stat out, unpackaged the new t-stat, cut the dangle ball off and left the small hole. I put that one in and put it all back together ( a process of about 10 min ) Filled the raidiator back up, fired it up and let it run for another 15 min. This time the temp gauge came up maybe a little colder than usual, but it was up in the normal operating temp range. I then squose(spelling) the hoses coming from the radiator on the top and bottom which expelled some air bubbles. Put the radiator cap on and now i'm typing to you guys.
I'm going to go burn it around the neighborhood for a bit to see if it heats up again.
Thanks for all your help. I hope this was the last hic-up for my engine swap. We'll see though.

I owe you guys my sanity.

))--SLIVER-->

unclejpl4x4 · « **Reply #21 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 02:21:09 PM »

SLIVER · « **Reply #22 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 04:46:07 PM »

Well I burned it around on some trails by my house for about a 1/2 hour and it never overheated, so I guess it's fixed.
Thanks a ton guys.

))--SLIVER-->

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #23 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 04:50:57 PM »

I have been in the

situation many times. The worst was heading home with an overheating engine (dragging my wife's car she had just killed). It overheated 3 times (each time closer to home), each time the coolant was gone. I finally nursed it home, still running, thinking blown HG. To make a long story short, when I got the head pulled off, the HG was in perfect shape. Unfortunately this happened before I found this board. It was purely by chance that I found the real culprit (timing chain) before I put the engine back together, and wasted my time and money. I am FAR from a master mechanic, but I look at things and try to understand how they work, so that I can get a better understanding of what CAN go wrong.

-Matt- I apologize for coming across like

Like I said earlier, everybody makes mistakes (and I'm good at it), and have seen that the little things are the ones that a lot of times get overlooked. I won't ever tell anyone "this is exactly what's wrong", especially something I have not looked at myself, because more often than not, I'll be thinking in the wrong direction. If I look like an idiot once in a while, I don't care, but the times that my input helps, is worth the times that I'm off-base.

SLIVER -

Congrats! We all knew you would figure it out, and get it running right. Now, go enjoy it!

-Matt- · « **Reply #24 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 05:02:44 PM »

good deal, im glad everything worked. ya i have also had one where i drilled to large/or one to many holes and it ran way to cold, so i had to start with another one and just drill one small hole. iv also noticed that the design of the 22re radiator is horrible. i know on mine unless it 100% topped off the coolant wont end up making it all the way twords the driver side cooling tubes. most cars the water flows in on the side then enters horizontal fins (instead of vertical) so that its efficient. i have found that since my t-stat has holes drilled in it..if i am topped off on my radiator it will run to cold. but after the level drops a bit from it going into the overflow reservoir and doing that for a few weeks it drops to a level to where the water only makes it to about the 1/2 way point on the cooling fin. when it does this it runs at perfect temp. all i know its the whole situation is a pain in the ass and i have found out that for some reason there are some 22re's that are just really picky when it comes to the cooling system. overall seems like most people never have problems though.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #25 on:** Jan 17, 2009, 09:14:59 PM »

Glad you got it worked out! I've had horrible luck with a few stant thermostats and will not run them anymore, cost me a warped head, then bought their "never fail" and on the test run it failed. It was supposed to lock in the open position if it ever failed, but instead it locked closed

I run a 195* in the 4by, it warms up quickly and the gauge stays at or below 1/4, but my 3 row radiator had to be massaged to fit down between the frame rails, and the hood is adjusted up a little so it'll close. I have a 192* in the 2wd and it runs around 2/5 and takes forever to warm up. Probably should order the toyota thermostat.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #26 on:** Jan 24, 2009, 08:35:32 AM »

i run cheap stats with holes drilled for a few years and never had a good heater,

i finally got the toyota tstat and now i have a heater and it runs 195 all the time

i ran a "fail safe" and it failed SHUT, after it overheated REALLY BAD it blew the HG as i was pulling the tstat housing i saw it was shut, a second after that the stat "popped" and actually jumped out of the intake

the "pop" was it snapping open

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 24, 2009, 07:11:53 PM »

I put in a t-stat from my local Carquest, and I have had zero problems. The temp gauge will go up a little and then drops down to cold, and after 5 minutes it will climb right up to the midway point on the gauge in the dash, and stays there. No rumored over shoot, which is common on toyota motors, hence the dual t-stats you can get.

SolidAxle · « **Reply #28 on:** Feb 04, 2009, 04:15:53 PM »

Check this out also http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#Thermostat

SLIVER [OP]

SLIVER [OP]

SLIVER [OP]

SLIVER [OP]

SLIVER [OP]

SLIVER [OP]

Related Topics