Author Topic: School me on car audio stuff (Read 16572 times)

blackdiamond · « **Reply #90 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 07:52:41 PM »

Quote from: Plekto on Jan 06, 2009, 06:42:25 PM

Spend money on fancy Alpines or Infinity or whatever if you want - the Kenwoods are 95% as good for a fraction of the price. Better than JBL's car audio and Bose, btw. (note - NOT true for home audio - heh)

I actually have a Kenwood subwoofer and amp in the 4Runner along with JBL front speakers. I don't remember what my 6x9s are...

My home audio is the Infinity speakers that I "stole" on eBay. Their retail price was about $1,800 and I purchased them from Infinity Direct speaker with a full warranty for under $500 including shipping. A buddy of mine got a set for about $350 because he was willing to get two left channel speakers so the side firing subs were on the same side. I checked shipping for a set of IL-60 (the big brother) from Colorado to Washington State and it was over $300 so I figure I did well. My dad found a floor model set of IL-60s for another friend of mine in Colorado for about $500+ so I delivered them when I made a trip to visit my parents.

I'm looking forward to getting my Bose headphones, my current cheap Sony ear buds stink.

yota_krawler · « **Reply #91 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:42:04 PM »

so have you gathered enough info yet?

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #92 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:44:31 PM »

what ever u do...buy used=) i have a 10in Alpine Type R sub, with a 500watt alpine amp and a type r ported box. total cost=650(plus wiring) used=150...lol...well at least i did. im gunna fab me a cage thing for the sub this summer and weld it to the cab..so i can roll with tube doors or no doors and not worry about anything missing.

yota_krawler · « **Reply #93 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:45:56 PM »

no doors and tube doors suck for subs, at least for my sub. I took mine off one time and couldnt even hear my sub, it was weird

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #94 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:47:51 PM »

Quote from: Yota_Krawler on Jan 06, 2009, 10:42:04 PM

so have you gathered enough info yet?

I gathered enough to get me started a long time ago lol. I found out the basics, so I am set until i decide to ever do anything about changing my setup. All i really needed help figuring out was how to wire up an amp and the basics on how it all works. I just was not getting the info I wanted after searching on google for a while. Now I know enough to do what I need to do if I ever decide to do it. Thanks for all the input guys. I just let the thread keep going and going and going, figured the info might help someone else who was mildly interested and was dumb on the subject like I was.

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #95 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:48:21 PM »

makes since, nothing to bounce off of..did u have a ported box...big difference in sound and bass

yota_krawler · « **Reply #96 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:48:56 PM »

it went further than I thought it would.

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #97 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:49:46 PM »

all i can say is i can not urge u enough to make sure u have a fuse somewhere in the main power line, if not splice one in...run a 30 fuse for 500-700 watts

yota_krawler · « **Reply #98 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:50:09 PM »

no mine is sealed, it was (at the time) a kenwood 12"

a lot better than what I have now, I traded it for a spare

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #99 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:50:28 PM »

Quote from: Yota_Krawler on Jan 06, 2009, 10:48:56 PM

it went further than I thought it would.

I did not expect it to make it past one page lol. I also recieved many MANY PMs from various people on the subject, so I am set on the basics now. Contemplating turning this thread off so it will quit growing with BS.

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #100 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:50:33 PM »

hahhaha sound bouncing off of the rocks? lmao

yota_krawler · « **Reply #101 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:53:02 PM »

Quote from: KDXSR5 on Jan 06, 2009, 10:50:28 PM

I did not expect it to make it past one page lol. I also recieved many MANY PMs from various people on the subject, so I am set on the basics now. Contemplating turning this thread off so it will quit growing with BS.

I say let it go, just change the subject from time to time IMO

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #102 on:** Jan 06, 2009, 10:53:50 PM »

its not smart to bump music off roadin anyway, i have mine for intown

THK Matt · « **Reply #103 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 05:29:43 PM »

yes definately make sure you run an inline fuse block in-between the battery and amp.

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #104 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 05:38:36 PM »

my wire was bling bling and came with one..along with a protective cover running the entire line

THK Matt · « **Reply #105 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 05:46:05 PM »

I have a 4g power and ground wire with a 40amp fuse block.

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #106 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 05:47:30 PM »

how many watts u runnin?

THK Matt · « **Reply #107 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 05:51:05 PM »

500w amp my wire setup was when i had a 1200w amp and 12" Xplod, but that was stolen

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #108 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 05:54:48 PM »

i hate thieves....how can u feel proud to bump something u stole...id be sick evertime i turned the radio on sorry bro=(

THK Matt · « **Reply #109 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 06:09:51 PM »

Quote from: Yota-Freak on Jan 07, 2009, 05:54:48 PM

i hate thieves....how can u feel proud to bump something u stole...id be sick evertime i turned the radio on sorry bro=(

LOL yeah i have got in the habit of locking my vehicle, no matter where I am, or for how long.

I have gone through 4 sets of speakers, 2 head units, and 2 sub&amp setups.
pretty much sucks

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #110 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 06:14:41 PM »

i would lock my truckbut then i would never be able to get back in it

blackdiamond · « **Reply #111 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 08:35:20 PM »

My amp has a 60 amp fuse on it.

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #112 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 08:36:01 PM »

how many watts u running...2000? lol

blackdiamond · « **Reply #113 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 08:38:59 PM »

Quote from: Yota-Freak on Jan 07, 2009, 08:36:01 PM

how many watts u running...2000? lol

Nope, just 460 watt RMS with 920 watt peak. I don't honestly know why that particular size fuse was chosen, it was recommended by my electrical engineer buddy that helped with the install. I thought it was interesting that the Toyota alternator is only a 60 amp so I'm guessing that it take a good load from the battery to blow the fuse. The fuse is HUGE.

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #114 on:** Jan 07, 2009, 08:40:31 PM »

well i just find it odd...cuz i chose a smaller fuse so if it happend to blow....my sub would be fine...with a 60...its like the fuse isnt even there...u kno what i mean?

THK Matt · « **Reply #115 on:** Jan 09, 2009, 06:52:04 AM »

bd, I'd run it down to a 40, so you dont blow anything.... that fuse will pop first.

my bro's 1200w amp has two 30 amp fuses.
my 500w JBL amp has a 30 or a 40amp. I can't remember.

blackdiamond · « **Reply #116 on:** Jan 09, 2009, 07:02:22 AM »

Quote from: 85HOrunner on Jan 09, 2009, 06:52:04 AM

bd, I'd run it down to a 40, so you dont blow anything.... that fuse will pop first.

my bro's 1200w amp has two 30 amp fuses.
my 500w JBL amp has a 30 or a 40amp. I can't remember.

I'll take a look maybe I'm remembering wrong, but I know the fuse was chosen with some thought. Your point is well taken and I'm positive that my electrical engineering buddy wouldn't set me up with a fuse with a higher capacity than the fuse in the amp.

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #117 on:** Jan 09, 2009, 08:04:26 AM »

well just lookin out for u equipment...those things are scary when they blow..lmao

Tallchevy · « **Reply #118 on:** Jan 09, 2009, 09:31:15 AM »

Quote from: KDXSR5 on Jan 06, 2009, 10:50:28 PM

I did not expect it to make it past one page lol. I also recieved many MANY PMs from various people on the subject, so I am set on the basics now. Contemplating turning this thread off so it will quit growing with BS.

X2
Sometimes it's difficult to understand what someone is trying to explain when you don't have much knowledge of what they are talking about. When you buy finally buy your amp it will come with instructions & how to wire it with pictures. Here is a link that I randomly picked off the net. I hope this will help you get a better understanding

http://inform3.kenwoodusa.com/manuals/kac8404.pdf

fordh8r · « **Reply #119 on:** Jan 09, 2009, 10:52:45 AM »

Something I haven't seen mentioned here (apologies if it has) is to be sure the fuse you put in is as close to the battery as possible/practical. (usually less than 18 inches is best)

Unless the amp has a built in fuse (typical of most newer amps) the fuse you install near the battery is simply to protect the battery cable circuit, which supplies you amp's power and not the amp itself, in the event it shorts to ground (IE. in an accident

or wheeling mishap.

). Otherwise the fuse can be sized by the amp's wattage output. You can also go bigger if you'd like.

The formula for watts is (A x V = W) inversely the formula for amps would be W / V = A

For example: A 12V system with a 120W amp will draw 10 Amps. But remember you'll typically see closer to 14V while your rig is running so run that fuse as big as practical.

Another thing to consider is how many amps you will be running on that same fuse (the one near the battery) because it has to acommodate for all amp draws.

For example: If one amp draws a max of 10 amps and another draws a max of 20 amps then you will need a min of a 30 amp fuse.

Even if you over size the fuse near the battery and if you don't have built in fuses on the amp you're installing, it would still be best to install the proper size fuse for each amp at the amp's batt wire near the amp itself. This would be the amp's circuit protection fuse.

Note: the term 'fuse' is used here but my preference is to use a circuit breaker so the long term affect of heat doesn't affect the battery connection for the amp/amps which will often degrade the voltage supply for any good high powered amp system.

Reason being that as a fuse get close to it's amp limits (without exceeding the amp rating) it will get hot. Which in turn can cause the ends of the fuse strip to become desoldered from the end caps of the fuse creating an "open". This happens more often and faster than you might think. The problem here is....the fuse goes "open" on the ends and not in the middle because this "open fuse" is caused from resistance brought on by the heat created from the high amperage draw and NOT from over loading the circuit (too many amps). Remember we didn't exceed the amp rating of the fuse in this example.

If this is all new to you, you may have to read it a couple of times to fully understand it. I hope I was clear in my explanation. Trust me, this understanding is definitely worth the trouble because not doing this isn't worth the trouble you'll have later with blown fuses and other crap that will just frustrate you to no end. Been there done that.

On another note, also it's a good idea to solder all your high amp conections (battery cable ends) so they wont get hot and get corroded over time which again will quickly deminish the cable connections and let your stereo system voltage suffer. I do this with all my installs and have yet to have any problems. Even after all my years of leaky windshields and what not.

Sorry for the long post, it's just easier than multiple post for all the same words. I think.

Hope this helps. $Beer Chug\'n$

KDXSR5 [OP]

KDXSR5 [OP]

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