22R & 22RE OIL FILTER APPLICATIONS

[bleakhorizon]

if worried about new oils you can run valvoline racing oils wich have alot of zink but they need to be changed more often, or you can add a bottle of cam breakin oil at every oil change or you can add a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer, or thier break in oil we had a custumer with an 30's cadalic with a bronze dist gear it got wiped out in less then 50 miles because it had the wrong oil in the motor, if you have a engine and its 20 or more years old i would be looking into using a non-standard motor oil to make sure that motor will last.

this is what we have been doing with some of the customers in my shop, let alone we have bought out every bottle of SN rated 5-20 and 10-30 in western oregon LOL


And i run Motorcraft Filters.. FL793 is stock sized replacement but I run the FL300 for .5 qt added capacity

[blackdiamond]

Just to clarify, in a 10w-30 oil the 10 is the rated viscosity at a specified low temperature and the 30 is the rated viscosity at a high temperature.  Both ratings are ranges of viscosity and are generally related to startup viscosity at cold temperatures and also at operating temperatures.  I think the W stands for something other than winter officially, but I am not positive.

[tgmaul88]

=  I think the W stands for something other than winter officially, but I am not positive.

did yo read this at all??? http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/171/oil-can  w stands for winter

"The "W" or "Winter designation indicates that the oil meets viscosity requirements for low temperatures (below 30°F). "

[tgmaul88]

http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/d.cgi/1124190/which_30_weight_oil.htm

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=7570

[unclejpl4x4]

hay ? what PSI is to much for a 22re/ napa gold oil filter......  atm my gauge is peged at 100psi 
 

[4RunnerChevy]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haiqFcIXTqs

[jimbo74]

hay ? what PSI is to much for a 22re/ napa gold oil filter......  atm my gauge is peged at 100psi 
 

pretty sure the burst pressure on an oil filter is way higher than that.......

[bleakhorizon]

pretty sure the burst pressure on an oil filter is way higher than that.......

hay ? what PSI is to much for a 22re/ napa gold oil filter......  atm my gauge is peged at 100psi 
 

the real question is why your pressure is that high?

[unclejpl4x4]

ya it was my dumbassery .... The gauge worked Friday before i fixed the leak  and after i fixed the leak the gauge pins as soon as the key is turned on  never notice it was key peged.  The sender decided to short on me just to give me that extra kick in the balls.     I swear if it was not for bad luck i would not have any.

Thats bad  ass

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haiqFcIXTqs

[Wallace]

Are there any opinions on the Bosch filters? 

I run the Bosch 3500 on my 87 22RE, takes a little fandangling to get it into place due to it's size...

[se3388]

I have to run a filter with a check valve or I get a lot of noise from the motor on startup for about 2 to 3 minutes.

Steve E...............

[New83]

 

[Speed]

NAPA's filters are made by WIX.
   Speed

[Gnarly4X]

Gee, I'm surprised this topic hasn't been active for quite awhile.

I've been on automotive forums since 1999, and every one has raging, and educational, debates about oils and filters.  For many auto enthusiasts there are many different experiences and opinions.  You can find all kinds of Bravo Sierra on just about any subject on the net. With engine oils and filters there is a lot of misinformation, but to me the bottom line is if you change your oil and filter per the manufacturer's periodic maintenance recommends - generally - you won't experience engine component failure due to the oil properties.  Most engine failure is due to neglect, abuse, or application deviation.  No doubt that there are engines that may require careful selection of lubrication and maintenance schedules.

That's just my worthless opinion.

Gnarls.

[OTO Phil]

I've read that an oil cooler would help oil last longer, but haven't jumped on it yet... Should have before I quit oreillys...

I run the factory tundra filter. T5 or something like that...

[Gnarly4X]

I've read that an oil cooler would help oil last longer, but haven't jumped on it yet... Should have before I quit oreillys...

I run the factory tundra filter. T5 or something like that...

Hey excabswap,

What is the reason you want to "help oil last longer"?

Tranny coolers are one thing, crankcase oil coolers are another.  Dropping your crankcase oil temperature 15 or 20 degrees will not make a shizzle difference.  Installing an engine oil cooler is just introducing another thing that can go wrong, develop a leak and toast an engine.  Besides, if engine oil needed to be cooled down below average 230 to 260 degrees F the automotive designers would have done it by now.

Let's assume the use of synthetic oil will allow you to extend mileage between oil change intervals.

Example 1:  You buy 5 quarts of conventional Quakerstate oil at $15, you go 5,000 miles before changing.  That calculates your oil cost will be: $ 0.003 per mile

Example 2:  You buy 5 quarts of synthetic Mobil 1 at $25, you go 7,500 miles before changing.  That calculates your oil cost will be $0.0033 per mile.

So the cost of oil between changes is insignificant.  For 15,000 miles you would save the cost of 1 oil filter, or maybe $5.00 or $6.00 buy using synthetic oil.  PLUS, 3 added benefits:  Synthetic oil provides better flow at lower ambient temperatures (very important for cold starts in very cold climate), higher operating temperature before oil chemistry breakdown, and you save some time and labor between oil changes.

If you want to save a few bucks on the cost of oil, just buy Wal*Mart's SuperTech, your engine will not know the difference between SuperTech and any other brand name conventional oil.

That's just my worthless opinion.

Gnarls.

[blackdiamond]

Hey excabswap,

What is the reason you want to "help oil last longer"?

Tranny coolers are one thing, crankcase oil coolers are another.  Dropping your crankcase oil temperature 15 or 20 degrees will not make a shizzle difference.  Installing an engine oil cooler is just introducing another thing that can go wrong, develop a leak and toast an engine.  Besides, if engine oil needed to be cooled down below average 230 to 260 degrees F the automotive designers would have done it by now.

Let's assume the use of synthetic oil will allow you to extend mileage between oil change intervals.

Example 1:  You buy 5 quarts of conventional Quakerstate oil at $15, you go 5,000 miles before changing.  That calculates your oil cost will be: $ 0.003 per mile

Example 2:  You buy 5 quarts of synthetic Mobil 1 at $25, you go 7,500 miles before changing.  That calculates your oil cost will be $0.0033 per mile.

So the cost of oil between changes is insignificant.  For 15,000 miles you would save the cost of 1 oil filter, or maybe $5.00 or $6.00 buy using synthetic oil.  PLUS, 3 added benefits:  Synthetic oil provides better flow at lower ambient temperatures (very important for cold starts in very cold climate), higher operating temperature before oil chemistry breakdown, and you save some time and labor between oil changes.

If you want to save a few bucks on the cost of oil, just buy Wal*Mart's SuperTech, your engine will not know the difference between SuperTech and any other brand name conventional oil.

That's just my worthless opinion.

Gnarls.

I mostly agree with this. I would add that synthetics have some natural detergent properties that will help keep your engine cleaner over the long haul.  I am currently running Mobil 1 EP in my 04 Sequoia with 10,000 mile oil changes (oil analysis proved the oil is nowhere close to done at this point) and in my 08 Civic with about 8,000 mile oil changes based on the OLM. I am more comfortable good my this long between changes than if I can conventional oil and my time is the most important thing these days.

[Mudder]

Hey excabswap,

What is the reason you want to "help oil last longer"?

Tranny coolers are one thing, crankcase oil coolers are another.  Dropping your crankcase oil temperature 15 or 20 degrees will not make a shizzle difference.  Installing an engine oil cooler is just introducing another thing that can go wrong, develop a leak and toast an engine.  Besides, if engine oil needed to be cooled down below average 230 to 260 degrees F the automotive designers would have done it by now.

Let's assume the use of synthetic oil will allow you to extend mileage between oil change intervals.

Example 1:  You buy 5 quarts of conventional Quakerstate oil at $15, you go 5,000 miles before changing.  That calculates your oil cost will be: $ 0.003 per mile

Example 2:  You buy 5 quarts of synthetic Mobil 1 at $25, you go 7,500 miles before changing.  That calculates your oil cost will be $0.0033 per mile.

So the cost of oil between changes is insignificant.  For 15,000 miles you would save the cost of 1 oil filter, or maybe $5.00 or $6.00 buy using synthetic oil.  PLUS, 3 added benefits:  Synthetic oil provides better flow at lower ambient temperatures (very important for cold starts in very cold climate), higher operating temperature before oil chemistry breakdown, and you save some time and labor between oil changes.

If you want to save a few bucks on the cost of oil, just buy Wal*Mart's SuperTech, your engine will not know the difference between SuperTech and any other brand name conventional oil.

That's just my worthless opinion.

Gnarls.

Gnarly is spot on. There is no need for an oil cooler for your setup. Now if you added a turbo and went for high PSI then you should consider one. Reason being is a turbo can spin between 80k-200k rpm's as you start to hit max boost. With an oil cooled turbo that shares oil with your engine you can see why it'd be beneficial at that point.

[onecool1929]

not the oil filter but the OIL

Have you heard about the "zinc" problem with modern motor oils? Many classic car owners and racers have experienced camshaft failures due to modern motor oils. Even worse, be prepared for the "zinc" to change in motor oils again later this Fall.

If you've not had the pleasure of having your camshaft go flat due to modern motor oils, consider yourself very fortunate. As an owner of an engine parts warehouse, I've seen hundreds of perfectly good camshafts ruined by modern motor oils. So when I read about the "new" API SN motor oil coming out this Fall, I started talking to the engine builders we supply parts. The engine builders all said the same thing – car owners don't much know about these modern motor oils and the problems these oils create in classic cars and race cars. Knowing about the Cruise News, I contacted Mike to see if he could help us spread the word – modern motor oils are not good for your classic hot rods and race cars.

Here's the facts:

"Zinc" or ZDDP as it is commonly referred to in motor oils is a type of chemical called Zinc DialkylDithioPhosphate, and "Zinc" has been the most common anti-wear additive used in motor oils for the last 60 years. I just call it "Zinc" because it is easier to say and spell.

"Zinc" is a remarkable chemical that protects engine parts from metal to metal contact under heavy loads. "Zinc" works by creating a film on the iron and steel parts in your engine. Unfortunately, "Zinc" also creates a film inside modern Three Way Catalytic converters. This "Zinc Poisoning" limits Three Way Catalytic converter life to around 70,000 miles.

The Federal Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) mandates that car manufacturers warranty Three Way Catalytic converters on new cars built since 2004 for 120,000 miles.

To achieve this goal, the car manufacturers worked with the American Petroleum Institute (API) to create new, lower "Zinc" oils that allow Three Way Catalytic converters to live for 120,000 miles.

These new "Lower Emissions" oils have extended catalytic converter life, but they have shortened the life of flat-tappet camshafts.

Not long after these modern motor oils with less "Zinc" hit the market, we started to notice an increase in flat-tappet camshaft failures. At first, it was the race engine builders, so we shrugged it off as some new "trick" the race guys were doing that caused the problem. Then we started to see stock flat tappet camshafts going flat.

Things got ugly really fast. Every camshaft company started researching the problem. So did the Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association. Everybody wanted to know, why are cams going flat?

The answer was "Zinc".

Lower "Zinc" oils work just fine in modern production car engines with overhead cams, and roller lifters. These modern engines don't rev past 5,000 RPM.

Most hot rod and race motors have push rods, flat tappet lifters and rev beyond 5,000 RPM. These engines need motor with more "Zinc".

The good news is that "High Zinc" oils are available.

If you have a classic car or race car, I highly recommend using the Joe Gibbs brand oils.
We have seen a dramatic reduction in camshaft problems when our engine builders started using the Joe Gibbs brand oils. Since Joe Gibbs Racing is a NASCAR team, they are on top of all the latest advancements in technology, and they have developed oils that work. I've seen used parts from Joe Gibbs Racing engines that look brand new (even with over 600 miles on them).

If you've not had any problems so far, consider yourself very lucky. Switching to a "High Zinc" oil before the new API SN oils hit the shelves is like an insurance policy against having problems.
We like selling engine parts, but I hate seeing good parts go bad - Especially when they don't have to.

http://joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/newoiloldcar.html

I use delo400 for the zinc content.

[andykrow]

Just felt I should add to the sticky and put in the "larger" stock toyota filter, very highly regarded: 90915-YZZD3

A ten pack from my Toyota dealer was $35. $3.50 each for one of the best filters out there.

[OTO Phil]

Just felt I should add to the sticky and put in the "larger" stock toyota filter, very highly regarded: 90915-YZZD3

A ten pack from my Toyota dealer was $35. $3.50 each for one of the best filters out there.

Revived. Haha.. yeah, the first gen tundra filters are a little deeper and are a perfect fit. Just go to the parts counter and ask for D3 oil filters 🤙

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

[emsvitil]

What are the dimensions of the 90915-YZZD3 filter?

[Gnarly4X]

What are the dimensions of the 90915-YZZD3 filter?

Product Dimensions   4.2 x 3.1 x 3.1 inches


https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Genuine-Parts-90915-YZZD3-Filter/dp/B0044B0YJ8

Gnarls.

[Gnarly4X]

Since the thread has been resurrected...  I don't remember if this was ever posted here.

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/tacoma-oil-filter-comparison

Gnarls.

[F1Turbo]

PureONE (Purolator): PL10241 standard / Unknown
                                                            ^^^^^^^
                                                            PL20195

[JimJam]

The factory part number for the 22r/e oil filter is 90915-YZZD1.

[OVRAROK]

I buy the d3 toyota filters 

[JimJam]

The D3 isn't much different besides being a tad bigger. Nearly the same thing