Author Topic: how hard is it to rebuild a 22re (just the bottom end)? (Read 12823 times)

fatkidskickrocks4x4 · « **on:** Sep 01, 2008, 08:06:33 PM »

What tools do i need and if anybody has done one what's your suggestions ? Swapped the engine into my truck and it's throwing oil out of the #3 cylinder like there's no tomorrow. what needs to be rebuilt? i'm thinking just the rings, pistons, and other bottom end. any ideas?

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #1 on:** Sep 01, 2008, 08:09:40 PM »

If you are going to rebuild the bottom end, you might as well do the whole engine. Its not terribly hard to do if you have the right tools, have an FSM handy, and know a good machine shop. That being said, it took me like 3 months to build my engine, but it was my first time. I rebuilt it from like january to april and I just dropped it in a few days ago, so I am really slow, but at least I got it done and learned a ton along the way.

fatkidskickrocks4x4 · « **Reply #2 on:** Sep 01, 2008, 08:13:32 PM »

i'm handicapped when it comes to cash so a whole rebuild scares the crap out of me. the last 5 months i've been trying to get it to run and now it does, but it's spewing oil! i'm so perturbed that i spent all this time getting it ready and now i have to take it back down and strip the whole thing! but most of the time was electrical work for the efi

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #3 on:** Sep 01, 2008, 08:17:00 PM »

you have to tear the top end apart to get to the bottom end, so just rebuild it all. Eat ramen noodles for a month and get some $$. A full rebuild with all the machining shouldn't cost over $1000. When I originally priced out my rebuild it was right around $750, and that was even with some performance parts added. Of course I then lost control and blew way too much money on it, but its done now so I can't change it. All in all it shouldn't be terribly expensive. Check out www.engnbldr.com for rebuild kit and parts.

fatkidskickrocks4x4 · « **Reply #4 on:** Sep 01, 2008, 08:45:11 PM »

they are alot cheaper than what i've been seeing. thanks for the info. (i'm in college i've been living on ramen and whatever i kill) i'm just going to take it in to my mechanic as much as i hate to do that. i'm going to buy the kit and have him install it and do all the work. do you have any suggestions for getting it into his shop? i can't put it on a trailer because our driveway is waaaay too steep. should i just drive it as is? it's already getting rebuilt.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #5 on:** Sep 01, 2008, 09:30:48 PM »

Quote from: fatkidskickrocks4x4 on Sep 01, 2008, 08:45:11 PM

they are alot cheaper than what i've been seeing. thanks for the info. (i'm in college i've been living on ramen and whatever i kill) i'm just going to take it in to my mechanic as much as i hate to do that. i'm going to buy the kit and have him install it and do all the work. do you have any suggestions for getting it into his shop? i can't put it on a trailer because our driveway is waaaay too steep. should i just drive it as is? it's already getting rebuilt.

You should seriously try it yourself. We rebuilt a 22re in our kitchen last year. Send your head out if your sqweamish, a good 3 or 5 angle valve job would do it justice, but the bottom end is super simple. If you can measure things and follow directions that's all there is to it! Get a manual, a sharpy marker, sandwhich bags, some good prelube, a piston ring compressor, a tourque wrench and some plastiguage. If you have some basic hand tools, sockets and wrenches you should be good there.

After you get the thing apart, take in the block and crank to get machined and order your bearings accordingly.

I lucked out and was able to re-use my old pistons with new rings and just re-hoan my cylinders a bit. All I had to do is get the crank turned. I think Toyota rod and main bearings are worth the $$. I used the DOA C270 cam and an LC adjustable timing gear. The engine would lug way down and had good highway pull so I thought they were worth it, but there are alot of good products out there so listen to other guys on the performance stuff. I might be missing something.

Sorry to go off on you with to much info but I think that everybody should rebuild an engine, it's easy and it costs to much to get it done at a shop. Very satisfying experience as well.

Wheel On!

83MT · « **Reply #6 on:** Sep 02, 2008, 09:13:31 AM »

x2 on engnbldr.com. He'll answer all your emails super fast and give loads of good advice.

fatkidskickrocks4x4 · « **Reply #7 on:** Sep 02, 2008, 09:24:16 PM »

do you guys know the original specs to get it bored for a rebuild?

83MT · « **Reply #8 on:** Sep 03, 2008, 07:18:32 AM »

If you actually get it bored, you will be going bigger than original. No way around it. If it's not scored bad, you can just get it honed instead of bored, and it will remain factory. By boring it you are enlarging the cylinders, however slightly.

toyotanner · « **Reply #9 on:** Sep 03, 2008, 07:36:35 AM »

take the motor out of the truck and put it on an engine stand and take it to him on the engine stand.

fatkidskickrocks4x4 · « **Reply #10 on:** Sep 03, 2008, 09:24:22 PM »

so if its in decent shape it can just get honed? how does that work?

1stgenboy · « **Reply #11 on:** Sep 03, 2008, 09:51:56 PM »

At 136,000 I did a ring and bearing job. Left the block in the truck. Honed the cylinders with a $35.00 hone. Easy to do. Put hone on drill motor. Have a buddy stand there with a can of machining oil. Put hone in and pull the trigger on the drill while your buddy keeps the walls wet with oil. Make the hone go up and down in the cylinder at a speed so that the marks it leaves are 45 degrees to each other. should not take more than a minute or two per cylinder. Bearings were $22.00. Rings were $17.00 Gasket set was $42.00. No more oil burning from carboned up oil rings was priceless.

1stgenboy

fatkidskickrocks4x4 · « **Reply #12 on:** Sep 03, 2008, 10:27:22 PM »

dear lord that sounds alot easier than getting it bored out!!!(well, cheaper) what size are the cylinders stock? could i hone and replace pistons and everything like a rebuild? (probably a dumb question) were do i get a hone?

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #13 on:** Sep 04, 2008, 02:48:12 AM »

You really need to take it apart and measure everything out to see if just honing it is going to work. Take the engine out and take it to a professional machine shop. The professionals know what to measure and how to measure and will tell you what needs to be done (that is if you took it to a good machine shop). Ask around to see where others in your area have had there toyota engines machined. If you are lucky you might get away with just a hone. Most likely you will need to get the block bored and honed and the crank turned at the very least. Know what you are talking about before you go down to the machine shop to hear what they want to do to it. If you found a good machine shop they wont throw on unnecessary stuff, but if you found a not so good machine shop you will see a bunch of extra stuff they throw on the bill that is not needed. You really need to look at an FSM to get all the specs. The FSM walks you through how to do all of this from taking it out and tearing it down to measuring everything to putting it all back together and installing it.

83MT · « **Reply #14 on:** Sep 04, 2008, 07:20:26 AM »

Yup. Taking it to a shop is a good idea. You can just look at the manual and measure all the clearances and inspect everything. You'll need to make sure the head and block are not warped by some overheating caused by a head gasket leak, and you'll need to figure out on your own if it needs honed or bored. I went through this....I was going in the engine to do the timing chain...next thing I know I've got a completely rebuilt engine (and I'll be broke for the next year). I had great advice from people. If I had just done the chain, and maybe head gasket, I would have put it back together and realized my head and block were slightly warped, crank was scored, pistons needed boring etc. Luckily (I guess) I had a guy telling me "well, while you're in there, grab the piston rods and make sure they aren't loose", "DO the head gasket, it's cheap insurance". And of course everything he had me check, just to make sure, ended up needing work.
I would have put it all back together and only then realized how much more work it needed. Somebody really ABUSED my truck before I got it. Taking it to a good machine shop will rule out (if you're lucky) all these things. If you just hone and it needed a bore....you get to tear the engine apart again!

fatkidskickrocks4x4 · « **Reply #15 on:** Sep 04, 2008, 10:55:45 PM »

i HATE my manual! it doesn't cover anything! what kind of manual should i get mines a chilton. it goes over some basics but almost nothing that i've actually done. (i'm going to take it into the shop, i just want to know as much as possible about it, that way i go in well armed and don't get screwed into stuff i don't want or need)

83MT · « **Reply #16 on:** Sep 05, 2008, 06:27:37 AM »

If you want a GOOD manual get the FSM. If you don't want to spend money, there are some online versions floating around. You can read or print out what you need. Chilton & Haynes are ok, but the factory servie manual is obviously the best.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #17 on:** Sep 05, 2008, 07:26:38 AM »

Not to be a richard or anything, but if you are not willing to either buy an FSM or find one online to look off of, then you really should not be trying to rebuild your own engine. IMO you really do need to look off of a FSM to get all the measurements and stuff right.

fatkidskickrocks4x4 · « **Reply #18 on:** Sep 05, 2008, 07:12:43 PM »

no offense taken, i just don't know were to get one.

KDXSR5 · « **Reply #19 on:** Sep 05, 2008, 07:44:01 PM »

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=8872.0

Before I bought my FSM off of ebay I just used the second one in this link.

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