Topic: Alternator Question

[blackdiamond]

I'm looking at getting a new alternator for my 89 4Runner and have found the following options:

60 Amp NAPA $106

60 Amp Duralast $115

60 Amp Autolight $140 (liftime warranty)

70 Amp Autolight $156 (lifetime warranty)

I'm still planning to call Sears when they open and see what they have available.

Any suggestions, experiences?

Thanks 

[jimbo74]

get oem. 50% of parts stores alternaors are crap off the shelf

[blackdiamond [OP]]

get oem. 50% of parts stores alternaors are crap off the shelf

I would agree that new is better than any remanufactured, but how much does a Toyota alternator run?

[kneedownnate]

Are the bearings bad or does it just not produce?  I got replacement brushes through toyota for less than $20 I think, and it was super easy to do.  The hardest part was pulling the alternator.

[Tallchevy]

get oem. 50% of parts stores alternaors are crap off the shelf

Just cause it comes from OEM doesn't mean that it's a good part. I bought a water pump from the dealer only to have it fail not to long after. I still had to remove it & take it down to the dealer & exchange it. So don't get into the mind set that OEM is superior at everything. Somethings yes but nothing lasts for ever regardless if it's aftermarket or OEM 



If you plan on keeping your 4Runner then get the 70 amp autolite with the lifetime warranty. That will give you some extra for running accessories. They get you with the warranty cause the average person will get rid of their vehicle before the part fails again. If you happen to get one of those 50% failed part alts, then I guess you will be taking it off & returning it 

[blackdiamond [OP]]

Are the bearings bad or does it just not produce?  I got replacement brushes through toyota for less than $20 I think, and it was super easy to do.  The hardest part was pulling the alternator.

I'm not really sure what the problem is other than I suspect the alternator.  The batt light has been coming on, yesterday it started staying on nearly 100% of the time and it is obvious that it is running on the battery since the wipers and rear window are getting slower.  I made sure to get home before I need lights.     

[blackdiamond [OP]]

http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/products.php?year=1989&make_text=toyota&model_text=4runner&category=engine_electrical&subcategory=alternator&part_name=alternator

other options.  Some are NEW for the prices of remanufactured.

[KDXSR5]

I like the mean green one. But for a more realistic choice, out if these choices, I would select the 70 amp Nippondenso.

[kneedownnate]

I'm not really sure what the problem is other than I suspect the alternator.  The batt light has been coming on, yesterday it started staying on nearly 100% of the time and it is obvious that it is running on the battery since the wipers and rear window are getting slower.  I made sure to get home before I need lights.     

That's kinda what mine did when the brushes were going out.  The light would come on and off randomly until it finally came on for good.  I checked the charge repeatedly but the light would always go back out before I could get the proper reading, but when it finally went out it was under 12.  Put in new brushes and it was nearly 14.

[blackdiamond [OP]]

What is the original Toyota alternator rated for?  How much difference will there be between 60 and 79 amps?

I leaning towards the Autolite 70 amp because it would arrive tomorrow.

[kneedownnate]

Having run an autlite alt I can only say RUUUUUNNNNN!!!!  Mine fried itself and took out the alt harness with it.

[blackdiamond [OP]]

Having run an autlite alt I can only say RUUUUUNNNNN!!!!  Mine fried itself and took out the alt harness with it.

So what do you recommend out of the original list?  I'll be back to a 60 amp.

[germ]

Not to hijack the thread, but what about having alternator rebuild, with higher out-put? Looking for like 90-120amps? Anyone have any experience with this?

Erik

[fordh8r]

Not to hijack the thread, but what about having alternator rebuild, with higher out-put? Looking for like 90-120amps? Anyone have any experience with this?

Erik

This is a good question.  When mine went bad in my '84 I relaced it with a 130 amp GM unit since upgraded parts for the Toy unit were not available And probably are still not...are these parts available for later model units?    You'll have to ask the rebuilder.  I've known the guy, who builds all my stuff, for a lot of years. He's a rebuilder and has been for many years.  A good quality rebuilder should know this stuff.  Ask around...

[ghetto_wheeler]

well this is kinda dirty but i have a warranty at autozone ill give ya my name and # you can go in there and get a  pretty new one depending on the year

[ghetto_wheeler]

sorry didnt read you have the 22re right?

[blackdiamond [OP]]

HiJack away.

I just finished installing the NAPA alternator.  The 70 amp one was for the auto trans and I didn't want to mess with it.

[fordh8r]

HiJack away.

I just finished installing the NAPA alternator.  The 70 amp one was for the auto trans and I didn't want to mess with it.

How is it different for an A/T  vs. a M/T?

[ghetto_wheeler]

and what was ment by hijack away

[kneedownnate]

So what do you recommend out of the original list?  I'll be back to a 60 amp.

If it were me I'd be comfortable with the denso (often what toyota uses), bosch or beck arnley, in that order.

[blackdiamond [OP]]

and what was ment by hijack away

see Blackdog's post. 

[blackdiamond [OP]]

If it were me I'd be comfortable with the denso (often what toyota uses), bosch or beck arnley, in that order.

I think the NAPA was a beck arnley.

[Tallchevy]

I think the NAPA was a beck arnley.

I guess you have a 50/50 chance that it will be a bad alt 

[skyscraper]

I put a napa one in a couple years ago and never had a problem since.  Also have a napa starter, and water pump and never had a problem.

[blackdiamond [OP]]

I guess you have a 50/50 chance that it will be a bad alt 

 

[germ]

This is a good question.  When mine went bad in my '84 I relaced it with a 130 amp GM unit since upgraded parts for the Toy unit were not available And probably are still not...are these parts available for later model units?    You'll have to ask the rebuilder.  I've known the guy, who builds all my stuff, for a lot of years. He's a rebuilder and has been for many years.  A good quality rebuilder should know this stuff.  Ask around...

Hmm a GM alternator. I've heard rumors of doing this, what does it take? I'd imagine you'd need an internally regulated alt, and probably have to modify the mounting bracket. Any other wisdom you could share? I'd be likley to try this if its really feasable.

Thanks

Erik

and what was ment by hijack away

To take the thread away from it original purpose and move it into another direction without the written or expressed authorization or implied consent of the original thread poster.

Erik

[jimbo74]

tehre are comapnies that sell a high output direct bolt in toyota alternator, but they are qutie spendy

[OOPS]

Here is a link on installing a 160-amp Powermaster alternator on a 3.0 V-6. There are also links to installing one on a 22r also in this same thread.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=458156&highlight=OOP%27S

[fordh8r]

Hmm a GM alternator. I've heard rumors of doing this, what does it take? I'd imagine you'd need an internally regulated alt, and probably have to modify the mounting bracket. Any other wisdom you could share? I'd be likley to try this if its really feasable.

Thanks

Sorry for the delayed response.    Stupid phone lines were damaged during some construction in the area and they still aren't all that good yet. 

 Anyhow, yes, an internally regulated unit is what you'd want for this mod. One from a mid 70's to early 80's model will work (Similar overall diam as the Toyota alt and must be clocked at 9 o'clock to install). It will have to be custom built for the desired amperage if the standard 60amp is not enough. I'm not too inclined to go with a one wire set up since they have a tendency to shut down at low RPM and to wire in the standard regulator isn't difficult by any means.  The lower bracket is all that has to be made to fit the alternator to the stock bracket on the block and is fashioned in such a way that it reconfigures the alternators mounting foot to simulate the position of the toyota alternator's mounting foot.  Also this allows the alternator to swing in the same arc as the toy unit so adjusting the belt is not a hassle and does not create the need to fabricate an upper adjusting bracket as well. Then with a 1/4 inch spacer on the timing cover for the upper adjusting bracket it basically just bolts in from there.

   IMO the GM alternator is far more reliable and is definitely cheaper to replace (or keep one as a spare) in the future. Not to mention, any joe schmoe auto parts will likely have one of these sitting on the shelf, even in BFE, if you should need one while on the road  .  I've seen too many reman Toy units not work to want another one on my truck.

   Hope this helps.      If you decide to go this route I can post pics if you'd like.    Good luck with what you go with!