Really need your help (stumble when throttle is applied)

Started by MiniSimp, August 07, 2007, 06:59:08 PM

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Tallchevy

Quote from: BigMike on August 07, 2007, 11:18:04 PM

For any legal matters, my disclaimer to you is not to worry too much about the fumes from your spray bottle. I know you wouldn't be running your engine in an area that is not well ventilated. The flash point of brake cleaner is safe enough that you could spray it on to your cast exhaust manifold while it is running and although I do not recommend this, it will not cause any problems.

Regards,
BigMike
:headscratch: I'm trying to think where have I seen a disclaimer on this board before  :headscratch:
:angry: My child is an honor student at Anton Levay's School of Satanic Arts :angry:

87 4Runner redo
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=41959.0
87 Toyota 4Runner, SAS Rig Gallery
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=29877.msg3


Blingn

Engine Hesitates and/or Poor Acceleration
Notes

Check clutch and brake for proper operation. If clutch and brake are satisfactory, proceed to step 2. If clutch and/or brake is not satisfactory, repair as required.
Check for vacuum leaks in air intake line. If no vacuum leaks are present, proceed to step 3. If vacuum leaks are present, check the following:
Hose connections.
PCV hoses.
Ensure EGR valve stays open.
Oil filler cap and oil level gauge.
Check air filter. If air filter is satisfactory, proceed to step 4. If air filter is not satisfactory, replace air filter.
Access diagnosis codes. If abnormal codes are present, proceed to ``Diagnosis Code Interpretation.'' If normal code is present, proceed to step 5.
Check for spark at end of spark plug wire while cranking engine. If spark is present, proceed to step 6. If no spark is present, check the following:
Plug wires.
High tension wires.
Distributor.
Ignition coil igniter.
Check ignition timing. If timing is satisfactory, proceed to step 7. If timing is not satisfactory, adjust as required.
Ensure fuel pressure is as specified. If fuel pressure is satisfactory, proceed to step 8. If fuel pressure is not satisfactory, check the following:
Fuel pump.
Fuel filter.
Fuel pressure regulator.
Check fuel injectors for proper operation. If fuel injectors are satisfactory, proceed to step 9. If fuel injectors are not satisfactory, check for injector leakage or damage. Repair or replace as required.
Ensure spark plugs are satisfactory. If plugs are satisfactory, proceed to step 10. If plugs are not satisfactory, replace plugs as required and check compression pressure.
On models equipped with 2S-E, 3S-FE, 3S-GE, 4A-GE, 4A-GEC, 4A-GEL and 4A-GELC engines, ensure air control valve is open with engine running at 4,350 RPM or more. If valve operates satisfactory, proceed to step 11. If valve does not operate satisfactory, check vacuum solenoid valve for proper operation.
On all models, ensure EFI electronic circuit is satisfactory. If circuit is satisfactory, test is complete. If circuit is not satisfactory, check the following:
Fusible link, fuse or EFI main relay.
Air flow meter.
Water thermo sensor.
Injection signal circuit.
Air temperature sensor.
Throttle position sensor.



Blingn

mini let me or FFC know if you need more we can break it down more and get some more test for u

Blingn

Fig. 74 Throttle position sensor terminal identification


 



22R-E & 22R-TE Engines



Disconnect throttle position sensor wire connector.
Using suitable ohmmeter and feeler gauge inserted between throttle lever and stop screw, take the following resistance measurements:
With throttle closed, measure between terminals VTA and E2, Fig. 74. Resistance should be 200-800 ohms.
With throttle lever and stop clearance of 0.0224 inch (.57 mm), measure between IDL and E2. Resistance should be less than 2300 ohms on pickup and 4Runner or less than 100 ohms on Celica models.
With throttle lever and stop clearance of 0.0335 inch (.85 mm), measure between IDL and E2. Resistance should be infinity.
With throttle valve fully opened, measure between VTA and E2. Resistance should be 3300-10,000 ohms.
With throttle valve in any position, measure between Vcc and E2. Resistance should be should be 3000-7000 ohms.
If switch fails to operate as specified, adjust switch as follows:
Loosen switch attaching screws, then insert a 0.0185 inch (.47 mm) feeler gauge between throttle lever and stop screw.
Connect ohmmeter between IDL and E2 terminals.
Rotate switch clockwise until ohmmeter needle deflects.
Tighten attaching screws, then repeat step 2.
If switch fails to perform as indicated, switch is defective

Blingn

Engine Idles Rough and/or Misses
Notes

Access diagnosis codes. If abnormal codes are present, proceed to ``Diagnosis Code Interpretation.'' If a normal code is present, proceed to step 2.
Check for vacuum leaks in air intake line. If no vacuum leaks are present, proceed to step 3. If vacuum leaks are present, check the following:
Hose connections.
PCV hoses.
Ensure EGR valve stays open.
Oil filler cap and oil level gauge.
Check air filter. If air filter is satisfactory, proceed to step 4. If air filter is not satisfactory, replace air filter.
Check curb idle speed. If idle speed is satisfactory, proceed to step 5. If idle speed is not satisfactory, adjust as required.
Check ignition timing. If timing is satisfactory, proceed to step 6. If timing is not satisfactory, adjust as required.
Ensure spark plugs are satisfactory. If plugs are satisfactory, proceed to step 7. If plugs are not satisfactory, replace plugs as required and check compression pressure.
On models so equipped with idle air control valve, ensure air control valve is closed. If air control valve is closed, proceed to step 8. If air control valve is open, check vacuum solenoid valve and vacuum lines for leaks.
On all models, check cold start injector for proper operation. If injector is satisfactory, proceed to step 9. If injector is not satisfactory, replace cold start injector and/or start injector time switch.
Ensure fuel pressure is as specified. If fuel pressure is satisfactory, proceed to step 10. If fuel pressure is not satisfactory, check the following:
Fuel pump.
Fuel filter.
Fuel pressure regulator.
Check fuel injectors for proper operation. If injectors are satisfactory, proceed to step 11. If injectors are not satisfactory, repair or replace as required.
Ensure EFI electronic circuit is satisfactory. If circuit is satisfactory, test is complete. If circuit is not satisfactory, check the following:
Fusible link, fuse or EFI main relay.
Air flow meter.
Water thermo sensor.
Injection signal circuit.
Air temperature sensor (if equipped).
Oxygen sensor.



Blingn

Access diagnosis codes. If abnormal codes are present, proceed to ``Diagnosis Code Interpretation.'' If a normal code is present, proceed to step 2.
Check air flow meter for proper operation. If air flow meter is satisfactory, proceed to step 3. If air flow meter is not satisfactory, replace air flow meter.
Check electrical connectors and relays. Ensure there is a signal change when the connector or relay is tapped or wiggled. If connectors and relays are satisfactory, test is complete. If connectors and/or relays are not satisfactory, repair or replace as required.


Blingn

Air flow meter and air temperature sensor are serviced as an assembly.


Disconnect electrical connector to air flow meter.
Measure resistance between air flow meter terminals using a suitable ohmmeter.
Resistance values should be as shown in TEST SPECS WITH UNIT INSTALLED, (if applicable).
Remove air flow meter.
Measure resistance between air flow meter terminals while moving sensor plate through complete range of travel.
Resistance values should be as shown in TEST SPECS WITH UNIT REMOVED, (if applicable).
If resistance values are not as specified, or if sensor plate binds or sticks in any position, air flow meter is defective.






te51levin

Code 11 can indicate that the TPS is not reading idle when the throttle is closed.  Are you adjusting it by ear, by the book, or how?


MiniSimp

Quote from: te51levin on August 08, 2007, 01:20:57 AM
Code 11 can indicate that the TPS is not reading idle when the throttle is closed.  Are you adjusting it by ear, by the book, or how?
Meter and feelers. By the book.

MiniSimp

Blingin, too much information! Brain is melting... :drooling:

Blingn

i was just trying to help you out man,   And I have to see you at MCR punk!!

MiniSimp

Quote from: BLINGN XJ on August 08, 2007, 08:00:53 AM
i was just trying to help you out man,   And I have to see you at MCR punk!!
I'll be there.
I'm borrowing a Multi Meter tonight to try to diagnose this more.

Blingn

Mini if you need individual test on components i can get you the specs let me know

MiniSimp

Quote from: BLINGN XJ on August 08, 2007, 08:09:58 AM
Mini if you need individual test on components i can get you the specs let me know
Thanks, I'll be going by the FSM, but if that doesn't work, I'll let you know. :dunno:

93tonkatoy

Quote from: Tice on August 07, 2007, 08:24:39 PM
Sounds just like both times my fan went into my intake tube. 

My 2wd acted the same way. the big black air tube cracked where the small tube clips underneath it. Had to replace mine with a section of 2" pvc pipe. ran fine after. I tried the duct tape, but it wouldn't conform to the curves enough to seal.
It ain't worth doin' if you don't have to clean up afterwards!

Build it, break it, fix it, repeat until your wallet is empty.

I shall infuse thy Jeep with the Essence of Toyota...and maybe that one won't pee on itself at the first sight of granite. - Duffil

SAVE TELLICO post 491

MiniSimp

Ok, so, air intake is tight, no leaks, tested the AFM and it's perfect to spec, checked the spark plugs, they are clean, tested the air valve, works fine, the O2 sensor however, did not pass the voltage test, it read a constant 11.2 volts at 2500 RPM's, the voltage is supposed to be between 0 & 7 and spike about 8 times every 10 seconds.

So...could the bad O2 sensor be the cause of this hair pulling problem?

Duffil

maybe the wire nut that is connecting it together? :slap:

MiniSimp

Quote from: Duffil on August 08, 2007, 08:00:01 PM
maybe the wire nut that is connecting it together? :slap:
Well, I don't have a soldering gun, so....

*** YELLER ***

Quote from: MiniSimp on August 08, 2007, 07:57:40 PM
this hair pulling problem?


um  :headscratch: :dunno:  you dont have any hair   :cheese: :rofl2:



SORRY THAT DIDNT HELP   :_oops:





:usa: :beerwhack:
MY ONLY REGRET IS THAT I HAVE NOTHING USEFUL TO OFFER THIS FORUM  :moon:
except BACON

MiniSimp

Picking up a new O2 sensor today at lunch, it probably won't do anything, but it does need to be replaced. :shake:

85xcab

I tested my theory. If the throttle is pushed when the test connector is jumped the ecm will set code 11. The ecm thinks the tps is bad because the idle switch is not made.

MiniSimp

Quote from: 85xcab on August 09, 2007, 02:51:25 PM
I tested my theory. If the throttle is pushed when the test connector is jumped the ecm will set code 11. The ecm thinks the tps is bad because the idle switch is not made.
Yeah, I am no longer throwing any codes, however it still runs the same.

Blingn

it still has the same problem and not throwing any codes? :dunno:

BigMike

Quote from: MiniSimp on August 08, 2007, 07:57:40 PM
So...could the bad O2 sensor be the cause of this hair pulling problem?

No, no way. Disconnecting a single wire o2 sensor will only throw the computer into limp mode. It will still run and even drive just fine.

You are going through a lot of trouble over this. You gotta stop going by the book and start going by instinct.

Start all over man, clear your thoughts. This is something very simple, like a bad ground or something...



Could you take another video of the engine idling for a while? Like just idling for 15 seconds on camera please?
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Blingn

did u disconnect the battery when you welded on it or did you have probs b4 then ?

*FFC*

when was the last time you did a tune up Kyle? Seems like something is clogged.. fuel filter, vacuum line, something :dunno:

Almost seems flooded :headshake:
"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, today is a gift - that's why they call it the present." - RW Emerson -

Blingn


MiniSimp

Quote from: BLINGN XJ on August 09, 2007, 03:28:00 PM
it still has the same problem and not throwing any codes? :dunno:
Correct.
Quote from: BigMike on August 09, 2007, 03:40:49 PM
No, no way. Disconnecting a single wire o2 sensor will only throw the computer into limp mode. It will still run and even drive just fine.
You are going through a lot of trouble over this. You gotta stop going by the book and start going by instinct.
Start all over man, clear your thoughts. This is something very simple, like a bad ground or something...
Could you take another video of the engine idling for a while? Like just idling for 15 seconds on camera please?
I know the O2 sensor won't do much, but it was bad so I replaced it anyway...and yeah, didn't do a thing.
Quote from: BLINGN XJ on August 09, 2007, 03:54:38 PM
did u disconnect the battery when you welded on it or did you have probs b4 then ?
No, and no problems before, all problems started after the Hollister run.
Quote from: FordFreakChik on August 09, 2007, 04:08:51 PM
when was the last time you did a tune up Kyle? Seems like something is clogged.. fuel filter, vacuum line, something :dunno:
Almost seems flooded :headshake:
It's been a while, like 2.5 years. We're going through all that right now.
Quote from: BLINGN XJ on August 09, 2007, 04:17:36 PM
could you have shorted out the ecm?
We are going to test that also, doubtful though.

So to update:
Replacing O2 sensor did nothing, but it needed to be done.
Can Idle perfect.
Starts are still really hard.
Can feather it up to 3500 RPM's and keep it there smooth.

Yes going back to the basics.
Mike, I'll shoot a new video for ya.