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At about 18,000 miles the cam was going flat. I found that the mains and rod bearings and journals were shot with #1 rod down to copper. It looked like a lot of crud went through the engine.I fired the engine up with regular 10-40 as instructed and changed the oil after 30 minutes to regular 10-30, as instructed.I changed the oil again at 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles (just to make sure everything was clean) and at 2000 miles switched to Mobil 1 synthetic 10-30 which was changed every 5000 miles.I will spend a lot of time cleaning this block and it's oil passages but I will always be wondering if the synthetic is dislodging anything I couldn't get too. Although, maybe the problem was just something as simple as the shop not removing the plugs in the crank when the cleaned it and leaving crud in it.What do you think, bad job of cleaning or synthetic breaking stuff loose that normally would have stayed lodged in the engine?
Synthetic is a great cleaner. It causes all kinds of problems with refrigeration units too. If there was anything coating the inside of the engine it would have been cleaned off and run through the system. If the filter got plugged early it would bypass all that junk through the engine. I would guess that it was not all that clean to begin with and using synthetic signed it's death certificate. If you get it good and clean go ahead and use synthetic, but I don't like it so much. Remmember it is good for starting crankcase fires too.
"if anything killed this engine it was the first 2000 miles on 10w30" [/b] II did change the filter with each oil change. I used one of the upper end Fram filters.
I run 10w-40 in my carbed 22R right now and I'm using a TG8 Fram filter which is the larger Ford filter. (the only Ford related part on my truck BTW ) .
Assuming that the TG8 is the same size as the PH8, it is too large to be a direct replacement. Do you run a remote filter or is there an adapter available for our engines?
TG8 is Fram's 'tough gaurd' series and is dimensionally the same as the PH8 and does not require any adaptation to install. Napa would be a #1515, or Wix would be #51515. It screws right on with no problems at all unless it interferes with the intake manifold brace on an EFI engine . As far as quality of filters goes, until I have a problem then I'll run what fits and works . I need more proof or something more logical than someone just saying ''don't use them'' before I take heed to such advice. I also don't mean advertisement from a manufacturer. I'm talking physical evidence directly linked to a failure because of said products inferiority. So far I've got about 40k on the engine since I rebuilt it and it doesn't use any oil to speak of, all while using a Fram filter. I'm certainly not saying that Fram is the best or only choice out there. I'm just saying it's a practical choice. besides how many more miles will you get from a more expensive filter than with a Fram? That to me would be conclusive evidence if you did a controlled test to prove such a case, no?
It has been a while since I had a PH8 in my hands. I thought they were wider than the filter for our Toyota.Thanks for the info. I will be switching over to the PH8 size for my 22RE.As far as Fram filters go, I have read that the lower end of their line doesn't have very much filter material but the upper end of the line has more filter material and anti flowback.Thanks againKen
what do you think about this.. i just got my block back from the machine shop after it was bored, decked , checked and all oil passages cleaned. brought it home removed the plugs from the mail oil gallery and ... a whole bunch of dirt, grime, rust and you name it. yeah i know it was flushed but it looks like you got to remove those plugs and check every time. It's good now but i had to manually clean it and reinstall the plugs.. from the oil gallery its a straight shot to the bearings.
I asked them to clean the block after the work was done because i was bringing it home to assemble. and i was told the oil passage plugs were removed and cleaned. thats why i thought it was done. who knows maybe they forgot. still charged me for it though. The main thing is that freaky things can happen durring a rebuild.. no matter how good the parts, oil or filter. If your rebuilding or buying a rebuild theres a few things to ponder. I double check my own work. I might even pull the pan and try primimg it to check for good flow before putting it in the rig.. or just fire it up once i finish the head.
But arn't they responsable for all the work they do??? Especially when it comes to all the debris??military_stang
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