Author Topic: Lift kits (Read 6239 times)

Lowgear · « **on:** Feb 16, 2007, 07:15:04 PM »

I have a 88 4runner with ifs i would like to lift it.But it is my dd so it has to be stable. What is the best brand of lift for that case.

TRHS1980 · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 16, 2007, 07:24:47 PM »

To get some accurate replys you need to provide a little more info. What kind of wheeling (if any) will you be doing with the truck? Do you ever plan to SAS it? What kind of budget are we talking about? What kind of fab skills you got? In order to be helpful we'll need answers to most of these questions. And a belated

to marlin $Beer Chug\'n$

DTB · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 16, 2007, 07:27:08 PM »

IFS i wouldnt recommend going over 33 inch tires...so 2 inch lift for 31s (stock gearing) or 33's (4.88 gearing) i like my downey 2 inch rears and cranked torsion bars. no point in going higher than u need. i can run 33s no problem oh and the search function is your friend

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 16, 2007, 09:21:30 PM »

Quote from: TRHS1980 on Feb 16, 2007, 07:24:47 PM

To get some accurate replys you need to provide a little more info. What kind of wheeling (if any) will you be doing with the truck? Do you ever plan to SAS it? What kind of budget are we talking about? What kind of fab skills you got? In order to be helpful we'll need answers to most of these questions. And a belated to marlin $Beer Chug\'n$

if you plan on doing an SAS, i'd forget the IFS lift, and go for the SAS now. No point in spending the $$ twice. To get a good lift kit for IFS, you're prolly looking at $6-800. Then, if you wheel hard, you'll tear up the IFS in a few years, and need to do the SAS anyway. My truck already tracks sideways down the road, and the IFS is starting to get beat.

If you're not going to wheel much, there are some OK lifts out there for the IFS, but you kinda get what you pay for.

Stay away from blocks in the rear, even if it means buying some junkyard springs and moving perches to make them fit.

DTB · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 17, 2007, 05:37:00 AM »

Quote from: BLACKDOG on Feb 16, 2007, 09:21:30 PM

if you plan on doing an SAS, i'd forget the IFS lift, and go for the SAS now. No point in spending the $$ twice. To get a good lift kit for IFS, you're prolly looking at $6-800. Then, if you wheel hard, you'll tear up the IFS in a few years, and need to do the SAS anyway. My truck already tracks sideways down the road, and the IFS is starting to get beat.

If you're not going to wheel much, there are some OK lifts out there for the IFS, but you kinda get what you pay for.

Stay away from blocks in the rear, even if it means buying some junkyard springs and moving perches to make them fit.

yes no blocks like BD said. I would drive the truck with IFS for a DD and mild wheeler. I think u can do a lift for a little less than BD said, I spent like 150? on new HD torsions from downey

(you could use ball joint spacers if u wanted), maybe 200 for new springs

, 100 for some used pro comp shocks and some lo-profile bumpstops and shackles....so that comes to under 500 dollars. You could even just crank the stock torsions which would bring the cost down more BTW, i am in the process of a SAS right now but was never ever let down with this set up. i was extremely happy for what it is and drove for a daily driver for three years like this. I would also HIGHLY recommend an idler arm brace

and a lower A-arm truss

and an add a leaf for a runner for sure. U will never get much flex out of IFS but it can still be alot fun and great for daily driving

good luck

Lowgear · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 17, 2007, 07:18:54 AM »

Thanks for the fast respons DTB,BD,TRHS.

The 4runner is a dd i don't wheel it much maby cross the Field to check on the horses or to the woods (i work as a logger). I just want to clear 33's with out cutting or bending my new fenders. I bout it and had to rebuild the motor that someone els toke out that was fun this was my 1'st YOTA .

Then i found out it had a old l model tranns in it so i bout a new on from Marlin. Got all that together and drove it to find it had bad bearings in the tcase. I found an extra tcase it had some bad gears so i got a bearing kit,a 4.7 kit and doubler kit from Marlin. Put all that together and it is awesome. As fare as my fab skills thy are ok.Thanks

Tallchevy · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 17, 2007, 12:03:07 PM »

If your not going to wheel your 4Runner, I would get a 2" or 3" body lift. You can get one for around $100. I had a 2" on my 87 4Runner & had 32" BFG's. I'm sure a 3" you can get 33"s. If you do a body lift make sure you upgrade your shocks. Make sure you get a body lift that is made for a 4Runner cause the body mounts & bolt leagths are different. This is inexpensive & will keep your IFS lasting longer.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Toyota4RunnerBodyLift.shtml#GenI.

BoG-ToY · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 26, 2007, 03:23:18 PM »

DONT BUY PROCOMP........AT LEAST NOT UNTILL I CALL THEM AND TALK TO THEM>>>>> one of my stearing arms is perfect, the other one has like ten different cracks in it.....wow.......Im afraid to drive my truck right now, I really like skyjackers kit, it gos on nice and keeps stuff stiff, my body lift has pissed me off, dont buy from summit, is my power stearing gear supposed to say toyoda on it? anyways, summits adaptor dont fit on my box, the whole isnt deep enough to put the lock bold into....

TRHS1980 · « **Reply #8 on:** Feb 26, 2007, 03:46:28 PM »

Toyoda is Toyota...

From Wikipedia
"The Toyota Motor Corporation was founded in September 1933 when Toyoda Automatic Loom created a new division devoted to the production of automobiles under the direction of the founder's son, Kiichiro Toyoda... Toyota Motor Co. was established as an independent company in 1937. Although the founding family name is Toyoda (豊田), the company name was changed in order to signify the separation of the founders' work life from home life, to simplify the pronunciation, and to give the company a happy beginning. Toyota (トヨタ) is considered luckier than Toyoda (豊田) in Japan, where eight is regarded as a lucky number, and eight is the number of strokes it takes to write Toyota in Katakana."

TRHS1980 · « **Reply #9 on:** Feb 26, 2007, 03:48:23 PM »

Quote from: billybobf on Feb 26, 2007, 03:23:18 PM

dont buy from summit, is my power stearing gear supposed to say toyoda on it?

Yes, I presume it does. If you look closely, quite a few parts on our trucks are stamped toyoda. And I personally have never had anything but great service from summit... but that part's just my

.

GA Runner · « **Reply #10 on:** May 05, 2007, 06:40:50 PM »

i want to lift my 89 4runner about 2 or 3 inches do u know if i need a body lift or a suspesion lift? or both

TRHS1980 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 06, 2007, 01:25:39 AM »

Quote from: 89 4runner on May 05, 2007, 06:40:50 PM

i want to lift my 89 4runner about 2 or 3 inches do u know if i need a body lift or a suspesion lift? or both

Once again, it depends on what you are planning on doing with the truck. What kinda of wheeling are we talking about?

GA Runner · « **Reply #12 on:** May 06, 2007, 05:50:35 PM »

um for now just like muddin nuthin to extreme because i drive it to skool

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #13 on:** May 06, 2007, 10:44:55 PM »

As mentioned above by DTB, you can run with your torsion bars cranked, or get some heavy Duty ones. Personally, I don't care for the idea of cranking the stockers, it can make for a pretty rough ride. A lot fo people will tell you to not put in a body lift, but if you just want it 2" or so so you can clear some bigger tires, I'd say go for it. Is the runner a 5speed? I know that there has been issues with putting a body lift on a vehicle with an auto, but I don't know if that is still the case.

As also mentioned by DTB, make sure you get and idler arm brace, or carry a spare. Also, bracing the IFS is extrememly important. you can buy a brace, or just weld on some plate, either way will work.

GA Runner · « **Reply #14 on:** May 07, 2007, 04:04:19 AM »

yeah its a 5speed. i was just wondering if a suspension lift and body lift did the same thing or not. but thanx for the advice

AaronB · « **Reply #15 on:** May 07, 2007, 04:38:09 AM »

I have an 88' runner also. I cranked my torsion bars and put longer hangers in the rear. I am clearing 33"s right now with some rubbing in the front on full turn.

BLACKDOG · « **Reply #16 on:** May 07, 2007, 11:10:20 AM »

Quote from: 89 4runner on May 07, 2007, 04:04:19 AM

yeah its a 5speed. i was just wondering if a suspension lift and body lift did the same thing or not. but thanx for the advice

No they do not. A suspension lift lifts the vehicle from the axles up, resulting in everything on the frame (drivetrain, body, bumpers, etc.) to go X amount of inches higher. A body lift only raises the body, leaving the drivetrain, bumpers, etc. at the stock height. If you only want to clear bigger tires, a BL is a an ok option, and definitely cheaper. I actually have a 3" body lift in a bag right now, its of a 2nd gen truck, so its should have alomst everything you'd need. I know you'd have to make 1 puck, because the truck it came off had an engine fire, and partially melted the body mount at the radiator core.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #17 on:** May 07, 2007, 02:20:46 PM »

i would go body lift, but no more than 2 inches
add a leaf in the rear with a longer shackle so the

dont sag like your hauling concrete blocks

THK Matt · « **Reply #18 on:** Jun 15, 2007, 10:58:35 PM »

im running 32x11.5 Kumho MTs on stock everything.
and i only rub on a full turn.

so a 2in body would do you fine. i know the rear can clear a 33 with no modification... but you wont have any flex as it will rub on your frame.

so lift it like 2in, if you only wheel very little..

4runman · « **Reply #19 on:** Jun 16, 2007, 03:02:58 AM »

Hi Folks,

I can guarantee a 3" BL will clear 33s on an 88 4Runner 5speed, because that' what I have done. No rubbing whatsoever. Only mods were a longer rad hose, longer shifters and that's it. My lift is really a homemade jobbie, with hockey pucks (yes hockey pucks). Total cost: $20 for the bolts, washers, and nuts. It's a good short term lift, but the pucks tend to soften up and crack up after a while. If you have an unlimited supply of pucks, you'll have it made!

Tallchevy · « **Reply #20 on:** Jun 16, 2007, 03:22:52 AM »

Quote from: 4runman on Jun 16, 2007, 03:02:58 AM

Hi Folks,
My lift is really a homemade jobbie, with hockey pucks (yes hockey pucks). Total cost: $20 for the bolts, washers, and nuts. It's a good short term lift, but the pucks tend to soften up and crack up after a while. If you have an unlimited supply of pucks, you'll have it made!

That's dangerous! Not only do they soften up but you have to stack them to get 3"

Then you have to change them when they go bad

Sound like a waste of time having to do the same work over & over

For another $60 you can do it once & move onto other things

TRHS1980 · « **Reply #21 on:** Jun 16, 2007, 09:35:26 PM »

highridin4x4 · « **Reply #22 on:** Jun 17, 2007, 08:21:16 AM »

Why does everybody not recomend 3" body lifts? The reason I ask is when I bought my truck it had a 3" already installed on it. They all lift the body 1, 2, or 3 inchs. Is it center of gravity or what. Thanks

Scott

jimbo74 · « **Reply #23 on:** Jun 17, 2007, 08:35:58 AM »

lots of people talk crap about body lifts, they say the cab will come off the frame in an accident.... from firsthand experience, in several accidents with a 3" bodylift i can tell you nothing happened to the bodylift... the damage that was incurred would have happened either way

highridin4x4 · « **Reply #24 on:** Jun 17, 2007, 08:54:33 AM »

Thanks jimbo74 I was thinking the same thing the only thing that may break is the 3" longer bolts.

fordh8r · « **Reply #25 on:** Jun 17, 2007, 09:24:38 AM »

Just remember, the higher you go the more mods you'll have to make to such things as floor openings for shifters, brake line mountings, fan shroud, among other things. just be picky on your install so all these items are addressed properly so you won't have any issues down the road. 1 and 2 inch lifts seem to yield the least number of mods and something about that 3rd inch that seems to add abit more to the list and also adds a little more stress to the steering shaft that always seems to lead to joint failure in the steering shaft.

As far as any problems... I've gotta 2 inch on mine and have had it for 2 years now with no issues to speak of

. Anyhow, just my

Wv4WheelinPimp · « **Reply #26 on:** Jun 17, 2007, 11:01:23 PM »

funny this post was here... i got an 88 4runner also with a 2in BL on 33s runs fine with those tires..

but i want to move up a little to make it better... i have choices from 3 lifts that i can buy all diff prices but i dont know what brand is the best cause i just got into this..
i live in washington state so the super lift and pro comp would be easier to get but i dont know if i should get the tuff country cause some people like em around here..

tuff country - $300 plus shipping in CA 4in shocks and u bolts
Super lift - $350 plus shipping in WA though 4-5in need front shocks n u bolts
Pro Comp - $200 Plus shipping in Wa 4in need shocks

DTB · « **Reply #27 on:** Jun 18, 2007, 02:39:23 PM »

Quote from: Wv4WheelinPimp on Jun 17, 2007, 11:01:23 PM

funny this post was here... i got an 88 4runner also with a 2in BL on 33s runs fine with those tires..

but i want to move up a little to make it better... i have choices from 3 lifts that i can buy all diff prices but i dont know what brand is the best cause i just got into this..
i live in washington state so the super lift and pro comp would be easier to get but i dont know if i should get the tuff country cause some people like em around here..

tuff country - $300 plus shipping in CA   4in   shocks and u bolts
Super lift - $350 plus shipping in WA though   4-5in need front shocks n u bolts
Pro Comp - $200 Plus shipping in Wa   4in need shocks

well theyre all about the same price so which ever one is easier to order....just be aware that none of them flex very well and you get what you pay for...if you want a cheap lift that is what you will have>> a cheap lift

Lowgear [OP]

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