YotaDave85's Exo Cage and Bumper Build (& Wheelin pics)

Started by MisfitDave, December 23, 2006, 12:51:11 AM

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MisfitDave

No I'm pretty sure it'll work fine, I'm just gonna hook it up and use it as my DD, then either get Teraflex to do it, or get ambitious and spend a Sat grinding.  Still haven't decided yet. 
Hey a quick question for you guys.  :confused: My buddy has an 85 pickup too and he took it to a pretty good 4X4 shop to get his lockers put in and front axle and knuckles rebuilt.  I guess the place filled his knuckles up with gear oil when they were done instead of packing them with grease, I didn't think this was a good idea.  Can you really use gear oil instead of grease?  :headscratch:

MisfitDave

Wow nobody has an answer?
Well the build is drawing closer to completion, or at least the completion of this stage.  The front axle is rebuilt, new steering arms are on and waiting, and the new V6 Calipers and rotors are on and look good.  I also started putting the power system on and figuring it out.  Here's some pics, I hope to have this beast back on all fours and running within the next week.
V6 brake system!

Mount for the power steering pump and pulleys.

Here is where the reservoir looks like it should be and then where I think I might put it.

The new master cylinder.


Rainer

Looks good. Im not sure what to do on the steering box. Cant wait to see this thing completed.

Mark
!!!FREEDOM IS NEVER FREE!!!!!!!!
1985 Toyota 4runner
22re rebuilt(offroad cam, internalls from enginebuilder)
5.29s with elockers f/r (high pinion front, v6 rear)
3inch suspensions 2 inch body
33 inch mixed tires. (bfg at, firestone at?)

Fearofrunner

QuoteHey a quick question for you guys.   My buddy has an 85 pickup too and he took it to a pretty good 4X4 shop to get his lockers put in and front axle and knuckles rebuilt.  I guess the place filled his knuckles up with gear oil when they were done instead of packing them with grease, I didn't think this was a good idea.  Can you really use gear oil instead of grease?

The seals in the knuckles wont hold gear oil for long it's probably going to leak out everywhere as soon as he locks the hubs in.  I would tell the 4x4 shop to drain it out and put grease in like it's suppose to have. 

Brakes look good, you'll notice a difference in stopping power with that set up compared to the old set up.

Get that steering wrapped up I'm anxious to see big blue  :thumbs:

Heres ya some motivation  :boobs: :hitit: :smokin:

DTB

Quote from: YotaDave85 on January 23, 2007, 07:45:15 PM
I guess the place filled his knuckles up with gear oil when they were done instead of packing them with grease, I didn't think this was a good idea.  Can you really use gear oil instead of grease?  :headscratch:
omg, thats the funniest thing i have heard in a long time! :rofl:
RIP KYOTA
Quotetoyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

MisfitDave

Thanks for the motivation!  :eyebrow: Last night I got the Shock hoops welded on and rustoleumed them black.  Then I had my way with the 2 front Bilsteins and a can of blue rustoleum!  Check it out.  I'll be  :driving: in no time!

The best part!!!  :greengrin:

MisfitDave

Also, I'd like your :twocents: about exo cages and tubing benders (not pipe benders).  Is 1 3/4" the best for all around bumper/ flat bed/ exo cage type fab stuff? and what do you guys think of JD Squared's model 3 tubing bender?
http://www.vansantent.com/model_3_bender.htm
I would fab my own handle and pedestal and use the money for a cheap tubing notcher.  So what do ya think?

DTB

Quote from: YotaDave85 on January 27, 2007, 05:39:20 PM
Also, I'd like your :twocents: about exo cages and tubing benders (not pipe benders).  Is 1 3/4" the best for all around bumper/ flat bed/ exo cage type fab stuff? and what do you guys think of JD Squared's model 3 tubing bender?
http://www.vansantent.com/model_3_bender.htm
I would fab my own handle and pedestal and use the money for a cheap tubing notcher.  So what do ya think?
we have a JD bender. top notch quality good bender for the money (though the dies are just as expensive as the bender, keep that in mind) We have a 1 and ½ inch and 1 and 3/4 dies......it was hard to decide between the two
RIP KYOTA
Quotetoyminator2000 – There has to be dumb people in order for there to be smart people
Low down & durrrrrrty Rock Stacking Web Wheeler :driving: Too many Yuppies..:shake:...Not enough Hippies :flamer:  Hobbies: stealing cookies, slangin' tacos, owning tequila bars, wheeling with paco

MisfitDave

Yeah I saw how expensive they are but my philosophy has been that you get what you pay for, so I wouldn't mind it.  I was thinking the 1 3/4" and the 1/2".

MisfitDave

I'm on the power steering plumbing stage and was wondering if anyone has pics of how all the PS plumbing hooks together and into the IFS steering box?  Topar hooked me up with a few but I need more of the plumbing, and preferably ones with IFS steering boxes.  Thanks.

Birfailed

I got 2" 1/8" wall on my exo...I love it, it get's all dented in when I really bash into rocks but it looks good afterwards!  And the thin wall let's me somehow "feel" the rocks a lil better, or maybe it's the beer I dunno.
Go 1-Ton from the start

MisfitDave

Hey Birfailed I think we've got the same welder, but yours must be a better edition cuz mine didn't come with any girl!! :thumbs:  I don't think I'll go 2" for the cage or bed though, 1 3/4" i think will be plenty big, I'd be afraid of it starting to look like the nerf bars that used to be on it.

Some work on the crossover steering, its just about there.  I can't wait till I'm out of all this mechanical work and just into fabbing stuff for the trail. Like a flat bed and exo cage.   :willynilly:

Ok I think I got the plumbing all figured out. This is what I have so far, tomorrow before work I'll run to get some bolts to mount the hose piece that runs in front of the radiator.  Don't ask me how I figured out it went there,  :idea: I got lucky!!  Here is the setup now.



These 2 prong looking plugs or what ever you call them are for air lines right?  But since I don't have the lines should I just cap them or leave them open? :confused:

Shoyrtt

My rear shock mounts are to a piece of bent tubing (Zukizzy has a bender in the shop :) ) I "borrowed the idea though from Big Mike who I believe used a piece of square tubing straight across the frame rails. ;)


I'll take a look at my rig tonight to see if I can help with your "air lines" issue next to the distributer. :ack:
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Gittinit

Quote from: YotaDave85 link=topic=29660.msg340607#msg340607 date=117005608

URL=http://imageshack.us][/URL]
These 2 prong looking plugs or what ever you call them are for air lines right?  But since I don't have the lines should I just cap them or leave them open? :confused:


Those are vacume ports origonally used on a efi motor to idle the motor up when the powersteering is used. If you remove that fitting and install a plug in its place it will be much cleaner, otherwise just cap them.
Hug your kids, pray for a soldier, and don't sweat the small stuff.

my favorite places:
http://www.flatnasty.net/
http://www.orvpark.com/

– fortysixandtwo – sorry, i prefer marlin because aside from gittinit, no one is a know it all a hole

MisfitDave

Power steering? Check!  :eyebrow: other than one of the fittings for the top of the steering gear box that I am waiting for the dealer to get in, my truck now has power steering.  Check it out!

Back to the rear shocks again, I had settled to just mount them to an existing cross tube that sat in front of the axle and ran from frame rail to frame rail.  But Shoyrtt inspired me and I dug through some of the scrap steel I got from a site i worked at a while ago and came up with this angle iron covered in fire proofing, concrete and rust.  After some cleaning and black rustoleum this will be where I will mount my top rear shock mounts!  Thanks Shoyrtt, :beerchug: here's to doin' it right the first time.

Shoyrtt

JOIN THE BLUE RIBBON COALITION!

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MisfitDave

Here it is all welded up and ready for shocks.  I used a piece of smaller angle iron welded to the larger piece for the mounting bolts to sit in.  The pic is kinda foggy but you can make out the mounts on the axles and the black steel running across the top of the pic is where the top of the shocks will sit.  WHat do ya think, Enough of an angle / \?

You can also see the load sensing proportioning valve just hanging there.  Tomorrow I'll put the shocks on, run to the dealer to pick up the last piece for the PS system, then over to napa for the stuff to bypass the LSPV, then I think while I wait for wheel spacers from MC I'll wire the 4 ProComp lights I've got and get the rack ready.
Funny story, a new guy at MC took my order for the calipers, rotors and 2" wheel spacers.  decide to call this morning to check on the supposedly backordered wheel spacers and another guy says to wait until the guy who took my order comes back and he'll have him call me.  Well around 5 here I call them back, no biggie I just need those spacers.  I talk to CJ who tells me they stopped selling the 2" wheel spacers a month ago! Nice so CJ hooks me up with the 1 1/2" spacers, and even gets them on the UPS truck that minute!  Thanks CJ, and heres to NEWBS!!!  :rofl2: :beer:
Meats waiting for spacers!!!

Fearofrunner

looking good man looking good, is the shock going to clear your exhaust though?  It looks close from the angle of the picture? 

The tires  :bowdown: Can't wait to get a set of my own. 

You still down to go wheelin this spring/summer?

MisfitDave

Yeah the shock will barely clear, Thats why I didn't mount the tops any closer to center.  I've gotta reroute the exhaust out the side, but for now it'll work.  I am definately down for wheeling, I talked to one of my buddies in Logan and hes pretty stoked.  I'm gonna make multiple trips to moab this spring and sumer.  As many as I can afford, I'll have to change my SName to something like Moab $lut!

Shoyrtt

One thing to consider with your shock angle is less angle is actually better. "l l" is better than "/ \". Use your "new" top mount as a base point and flex the rear with a fork lift, ramp, etc. If the shock is too long, you won't be able to "l l" it because it will bottom out on compression. Too much "/ \" and you limit flex on extention.  My top mounts were actually at a more severe angle, but Zukizzy put it on his fork lift and we were able find the best angle for maximum flex and to allow the shock to do it's job. ;).
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MisfitDave

ok, I'm just about done, I'll post progress and pics later before I go to bed.  But I have a 2 questions:
:confused: 1. MC Differentials have a breakin process that has you run them for 500 easy miles, then change the fluid and yer good.  For a front differential that doesn't get all the miles of the truck how do I put 500 miles on it?  Should I just drive with hubs unlocked and 4WD high in gear, or 2WD so the front diff is disengaged and run around for 500 miles with the hubs locked???

:confused: 2. I talked to the driveline place here in town and they have an extreme driveline with 12" of slip but high vibrations, and a driveline with 7" of slip thats more even tempered on the freeway. It being a DD I really don't like the idea of the extreme, but also don't want to have my lines seperate on a trail, or up a mountain.  Are my drivelines going to see 12" of slip or 7"?
Thanks Guys!!!

AaronB

Quote from: YotaDave85 on January 27, 2007, 05:14:44 PM
Thanks for the motivation!  :eyebrow: Last night I got the Shock hoops welded on and rustoleumed them black.  Then I had my way with the 2 front Bilsteins and a can of blue rustoleum!  Check it out.  I'll be  :driving: in no time!

The best part!!!  :greengrin:


How did you decide on the angle and position of your shock hoops? im doing the same thing on mine and im a little undecided on what to do.
"Never make your passion your occupation. it will loose it's luster and become work. that's why i never wanted to become a gynecologist!"

Quote from: skipnrocks on November 08, 2011, 05:36:37 PM
I also taught him how to put in 5min of hard work and then spend 15min staring and admiring what you have done...

MisfitDave

AaronB the positioning of my hoops had a little more to do with where they'd fit rather than functionality.  After looking at some pics of other rig's hoops I went at it.  Placement front to rear had more to do with where I could cut through the fender and have to reposition the least stuff in the engine bay.  On the passenger side I actually ended up grinding a bit of a mount off for a reservoir I don't know what for.  Once the position front to rear was decided (I think it ended up being close to 15" forward of a body mount) I clamped them to the frame and started pushing them around till they worked for me (the C-clamp vice grips saved a ton of time and headache)!  I ended up placing the bottom of the hoops about a 1/4" or 1/2" from the bottom of the frame rail and tacked it.  Then ran the shock up through it, liked what I saw and had at it with the welder.  They looked pretty good to me and good in comparison with some of the others I've seen in pics, but I am far from an expert at this, so if anyone reads this and knows better yell or something.  But like I said I think they'll give me the right amount of travel and they look good where I got them.  Hope this helps, good luck! :thumbs:

MisfitDave

Well the beast is ready for some road time, all I need are the wheel spacers and then some fine tuning.  Got the rear shocks in place and tightened down, the steering stabilizer is on, and I got the front diff filled with oil.  check it out!

Tomorrow I think I'll cleanup and start on the wiring for lights and some plans for a temp roof rack to last me till the flat bed and exo go on. 

MisfitDave

Quote from: YotaDave85 on January 31, 2007, 08:33:53 PM
ok, I'm just about done, I'll post progress and pics later before I go to bed.  But I have a 2 questions:
:confused: 1. MC Differentials have a breakin process that has you run them for 500 easy miles, then change the fluid and yer good.  For a front differential that doesn't get all the miles of the truck how do I put 500 miles on it?  Should I just drive with hubs unlocked and 4WD high in gear, or 2WD so the front diff is disengaged and run around for 500 miles with the hubs locked???

:confused: 2. I talked to the driveline place here in town and they have an extreme driveline with 12" of slip but high vibrations, and a driveline with 7" of slip thats more even tempered on the freeway. It being a DD I really don't like the idea of the extreme, but also don't want to have my lines seperate on a trail, or up a mountain.  Are my drivelines going to see 12" of slip or 7"?
Thanks Guys!!!
Ok also a third question to add:
3. I ordered the JD tubing bender with the 1 3/4" die, what would be a good second set to have, I'm thinking 1 3/8" or 1 1/4"? any thoughts or suggestions?

AaronB

Quote from: YotaDave85 on January 31, 2007, 11:14:52 PM
AaronB the positioning of my hoops had a little more to do with where they'd fit rather than functionality.  After looking at some pics of other rig's hoops I went at it.  Placement front to rear had more to do with where I could cut through the fender and have to reposition the least stuff in the engine bay.  On the passenger side I actually ended up grinding a bit of a mount off for a reservoir I don't know what for.  Once the position front to rear was decided (I think it ended up being close to 15" forward of a body mount) I clamped them to the frame and started pushing them around till they worked for me (the C-clamp vice grips saved a ton of time and headache)!  I ended up placing the bottom of the hoops about a 1/4" or 1/2" from the bottom of the frame rail and tacked it.  Then ran the shock up through it, liked what I saw and had at it with the welder.  They looked pretty good to me and good in comparison with some of the others I've seen in pics, but I am far from an expert at this, so if anyone reads this and knows better yell or something.  But like I said I think they'll give me the right amount of travel and they look good where I got them.  Hope this helps, good luck! :thumbs:

Cool, thanks. I think ill just wing it and do whatever works.
"Never make your passion your occupation. it will loose it's luster and become work. that's why i never wanted to become a gynecologist!"

Quote from: skipnrocks on November 08, 2011, 05:36:37 PM
I also taught him how to put in 5min of hard work and then spend 15min staring and admiring what you have done...

Shoyrtt

I'll give your three questions a shot :greengrin:
1. For the fluid change on the front diff, I am not sure I actually ran it 500 miles. I probably took 6 or 7 offroad trips (fire roads etc.) and called it good. :) :twocents:

2. Are we talking front or rear drive shaft?  :dunno: The rear shaft doesn't need 12" of slip. It would be nice for the front (you have 5" springs, if i remember right :headscratch:), but you shouldn't need to worry about vibrations with a front shaft. In my rig, we built both the front and rear shafts. For the front I picked up Marlin's 8" kit and haven't had a problem. In the rear, we got the right length pieced together a driveline, then I took it to a local shop and had it re-tubed and balanced. :twocents:

3. I would stay with the 1 & 3/4 die for now. As stated before, the die sets are pricey and with the 1 & 3/4 you can build just about everything you are probably looking at building (cage, bumpers, sliders, etc.). The only tubing on my rig that isn't 1 & 3/4 are the tube doors from 4X Innovations (:psss: great deal). The more you get into it (bending tube) and into the local 4x4 community, if you ever need a different die set, you can likely borrow, trade or rent (maybe for a few  :beer:) the size you need. :twocents:

That's 6 whole cents worth of advise to you ;)
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Shoyrtt

Quote from: YotaDave85 on January 31, 2007, 11:29:45 PM
Well the beast is ready for some road time, all I need are the wheel spacers and then some fine tuning.  Got the rear shocks in place and tightened down, the steering stabilizer is on, and I got the front diff filled with oil.  check it out!

Don't forget in your "fine tuning" the bump stops. :yesnod:
JOIN THE BLUE RIBBON COALITION!

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ZukIzzy

Quote from: YotaDave85 on January 31, 2007, 04:22:34 PM
Yeah the shock will barely clear, Thats why I didn't mount the tops any closer to center.  I've gotta reroute the exhaust out the side, but for now it'll work.  I am definately down for wheeling, I talked to one of my buddies in Logan and hes pretty stoked.  I'm gonna make multiple trips to moab this spring and sumer.  As many as I can afford, I'll have to change my SName to something like Moab $lut!

Not to pry but I grew up in Hyrum where are you roughly.

Wayne

ZukIzzy

Quote from: YotaDave85 on January 31, 2007, 11:35:32 PM
Ok also a third question to add:
3. I ordered the JD tubing bender with the 1 3/4" die, what would be a good second set to have, I'm thinking 1 3/8" or 1 1/4"? any thoughts or suggestions?

the most used dies in the shop are 1.5" 1.75" and 1.25" I have access to a 1" and a 2" but only use them for sepcialty stuff.

Wayne